3300001@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The well-known and historic Aurlandsdalen Valley, was once one of the main routes between the eastern and western parts of Norway.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300002@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The area known as Norway's Grand Canyon, is wild and breathtaking, rich in plant and animal life, cultural treasures, history and geological features.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300003@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You can hike through the valley and stay overnight in the mountain lodges along the way, or come by bus or private car for shorter trips.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300004@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Each section is also suitable as a single day tour.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300005@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Cross the railway at the station, continue along the western side of Jomfrunut and over the Finseåni river bridge.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300006@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A short detour to St. Pål (named by Lord Garvagh) is a must.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300007@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Spectacular views over Gausta, Hardangerjøkulen and parts of Jotunheimen.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300008@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The route continues towards Bakkaheleren.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300009@unknown@formal@none@1@@On the way you pass an old animals hunting pit.@@@@0@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300010@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Continue along the south bank of the river to Geiterygghytta Mountain lodge.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300011@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Follow the path up from the construction road north of the lodge and ascend the west side of Sundellerskarvet.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300012@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Here the path forks off to Kongshelleren and Iungsdalen.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300013@unknown@formal@none@1@@The path to Steinbergdalhytta continues northwards and cross Rausdalen.@@@@0@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300014@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Another climb west of Bolhovd to Breibakka.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300015@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Magnificent view over Stemmerdalen.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300016@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The path descends diagonally along the mountain side to Steinberghytta mountain lodge.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300017@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Rejoin the path up the slope north of the lodge and continue the ascent.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300018@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Fine view over Stemmerdalen.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300019@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The path joins an old route by Grøna-dam.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300020@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Continue over the Grøna river bridge, up past Grønestølen and down to Østerbø Fjellstove and Østerbø Turisthytte.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300021@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This section of the valley is famous.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300022@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Past the old cemetery and over the Langdøla bridge; continue past Viki to the once notorious Nesbøgalden (this was a system of ramshackle vertical and horizontal ladders fastened to cracks in the rock).@@@@1@33@@danf@24-8-2004 3300023@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Now a wide pathway has been blased into the cliff face along the Nesbø-vatnet.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300024@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The path continues past picturesque Nesbø to a fork at Tirtesva.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300025@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The original route is now restored, and it provides much better views than the path along the river.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300026@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The steep descent from Bjønnstigvarden is assisted by handrails and steps.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300027@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The walk continues past Svartatjødn.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300028@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We recommend a visit to the "Vetlahelvete" cave to the west of the path.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300029@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Descend once again to the river, and walk to the bridge over the Veiverdalselvi river.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300030@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Ascend to Sinjarheim farm (now fully restored having been closed since 1921).@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300031@unknown@formal@none@1@S@On the way you pass the tiny Almen farm situated beneath a towering rock overhang.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300032@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Continue along the river to Belle in Vassbygdi.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300033@unknown@formal@none@1@S@HIKING IN AURLAND@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300034@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Aurland offers dramatic scenery; soaring mountains, narrow valleys such as Aurlandsdalen, Flåmsdalen and Nærøydalen.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300035@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The area offers superb walking opportunities ranging from short, hour-long strolls to hikes lasting several days.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300036@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Especially popular among walkers is Aurlandsdalen with its fabulous nature and contrasting countryside.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300037@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The valley is rich in history and packed with cultural monuments.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300038@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It is a historian's a botanist's and a geologist's dream all rolled into one!@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300039@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Stondalen@@@@1@1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300040@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By car or bus to Stondalen.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300041@unknown@formal@none@1@S@(RV 50 - 20 km from the centre of Aurland) 6 km walk along a cart track to Vassbygdi (about 1,5 hour).@@@@0@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300042@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Either return by bus or take the bus to Aurland and Flåm.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300043@unknown@formal@none@1@S@DNT route from Stondalen to Sinjarheim in Aurlandsdalen, continuing to Østerbø or Vassbygdi or to Myrdal/Hallingskeid.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300044@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There is an easy walk from Aurland centre towards Lærdal offering good views.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300045@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Turn off towards Skjerdal and walk on the road by the fjord to the river Volda.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300046@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The path continues through forest to Bell farm.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300047@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Return along the car road to Aurland centre.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300048@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The walk takes about 2-3 hours.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300049@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If you want a longer tour, walk along the fjord to Skjerdal.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300050@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From there you can take the farm track into the valley as far as you like.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300051@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Walk the path from Volda to Bell farm on the way back.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300052@unknown@formal@none@1@@An easy 3-4 hours walk with many fine views.@@@@0@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300053@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Cross the bridge to the petrol station and continue to the Flåm junction.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300054@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Take the farm track to Vikesland.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300055@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From Vikesland by forest track and path to Hovdungo.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300056@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Down again to Sele and on to either Lie farm or Vikesland and Aurland centre.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300057@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You may even drive to Vikesland - the return journey to Hovdungo would then be 2-3 hours.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300058@unknown@formal@none@1@@This 4-6 hours walk is classed as fairly easy; some hills, good views.@@@@0@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300059@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Take the Hol/Oslo (RV.50) road to Lunde Camping.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300060@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Pass the roundabout and continue for a few hundred metres, then take the path to Turlid past Turlidfossen (Waterfall) to the main road from Lærdal (Fv. 243).@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300061@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Return by the same route.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300062@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Prest summit@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3300063@unknown@formal@none@1@S@To get to the Prest summit, take the main road past Bjørgo farm to the blue cabin.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300064@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Steep path up to Prestevarden (1363 m) - panorama - 2-3 hours round trip.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300065@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You may also drive to the marked path 10 km from Aurland centre.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300066@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Flåmsdalen@@@@1@1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300067@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Follow the railway to Vatnahalsen or Myrdal.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300068@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Walk along the old construction road to Flåm.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300069@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The walk takes 5 hours.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300070@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If you want a shorter walk for example 2-2,5 hours, enter the train at Berekvam station.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300071@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Construction road from Vatnahalsen to Finse.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300072@unknown@formal@none@1@S@DNT trail to Stondalen.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300073@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Marked DNT paths from Hallingskeid to Geiterygghytta, Ulvik and Upsete.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300074@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Take the train from Flåm to Myrdal or Upsete.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300075@unknown@formal@none@1@S@DNT routes from Upsete to Grindaflethytta and on to Undredal (Langhuso), Flåm or Stalheim.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300076@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By bus back to Flåm from Stalheim-Langhuso.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300077@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From Langhuso you can walk to Undredal (6 km) and take a boat from there.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300078@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Royal post route from Styvi to Bleiklindi is part of the postal network between Oslo and Bergen.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300079@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The road was used from as early as 1660 AD until the arrival of steamships in 1860.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300080@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Take the boat to Styvi and walk to Bleiklindi and back.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300081@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Return by boat to Gudvangen or Aurland/Flåm.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300082@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The walk is 5 km long (each way) and takes around 2 hours.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300083@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Four-day walking tour through Aurlandsdalen.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300084@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Each section is also suitable as a single day tour.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300085@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The many historic trails in Lærdal are splendid hiking trails and national tourist attractions in their own right.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300086@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In beautiful surroundings around the Borgund stavechurch, you'll find the Sverrestigen Trail, Vindhellavegen, Seltåsen and Galdanevegen trail.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300087@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Between Kyrkjestølen at Filefjell and Maristova is a 15 km trail along the old Kongevegen road.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300088@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Sverrestigen@@@@1@1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300089@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A popular path between Husum and the Borgund Stave church.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300090@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The name comes from the saga of King Sverre.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300091@unknown@formal@none@1@S@How to get there: by car or bus.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300092@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Park near the Rimskjold house or at the Borgund Stave church.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300093@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Vindhellavegen@@@@1@1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300094@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The famous Vindhella path winds on impressive hair-pin bends through the mountain pass between Husum and the Borgund Stave church.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300095@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Combine the Vindhella path with Sverrestigen path for a really splendid round trip!@@@@0@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300096@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The path affords a good walk from Borgund Stave church to Husum.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300097@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Bus or car.@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300098@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Bus stop/parking at Borgund Stave church.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300099@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The path across Seltåsen@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300100@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Fine trail, which includes several viewpoints with views of the croft at Galdane and the Sokni waterfalls.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300101@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Seltåsvegen path is an impressive structure which, in some places lies on top of 18 metre-high walls.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300102@unknown@formal@none@1@S@How to get there: Parking and best access from the picnic area at Koren, 1 km east of Selthun.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300103@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Beautiful round trip past Galdane, the Sokni waterfall and the Lærda River.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300104@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Lasts 4 hours.@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300105@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Start, parking and best access: from Selthun or Sjurhaugen.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300106@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Trip Outline@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3300107@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Meeting Time and Place: We meet at the Otta train station at 8:00 p.m. the night before your trip.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300108@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From there we shuttle to a charming lodge at the trailhead, where we overnight.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300109@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This night's accommodations are included in your trip.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300110@unknown@formal@none@1@@At the pre-trip meeting this evening your guide will answer questions, distribute maps and provide other information.@@@@0@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300111@unknown@formal@none@1@@Please have your pack ready upon arrival at Otta, any extra luggage will be safely stored and brought to you at the end of the trek.@@@@0@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300112@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Otta Train Station is a small-town station located approximately 3 hours north of the international airport at Gardermoen.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300113@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Several trains a day serve Otta from both Oslo and Gardermoen.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300114@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In particular, a train that leaves Gardermoen at 4:47 p.m. reaches Otta at 7:48 p.m.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300115@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From Otta we will drive to the edge of the Park where we will spend the night in a rustic, comfortable mountain lodge.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300116@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Jotunheimen Trip Overview@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300117@unknown@formal@none@1@S@(Click here for the Rondane Overview)@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300118@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There are countless highlights on this Europe hiking tour.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300119@unknown@formal@none@1@S@First is the hike to Fanarokkan, the highest peak in West Jotunheimen.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300120@unknown@formal@none@1@@This mountain often thrusts above cloud line, affording views of other great peaks in the park.@@@@0@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300121@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This night we stay at a wonderfully refurbished weather station on the peak that has seen its share of intense weather.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300122@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Next, we trek down the mountain among stony crags with wild flowers nestled in the rocks, snow fields, alpine meadows, and a glistening alpine lake.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300123@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We follow a rushing stream down to the edge of a hanging valley where we first glimpse our destination, a rustic lodge nestled in the hillside next to a cascading waterfall.@@@@1@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3300124@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We hike down below the tree line into a lush forest from which that night's lodge appears like an oasis, with home brewed beer beckoning deserving hikers.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300125@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The following days we hike through enchanting valleys that feature glaciers hanging off ridges above and river after river reaching canyon floors via plunging waterfalls.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300126@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We trek along ridges that drop precipitously into emerald lakes and meandering mountain streams below.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300127@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Each day provides immeasurable pleasure as dramatic scenery appears around every corner and good company abounds.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300128@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After emerging from the park on day six we head east into the Heidal valley, a region of Norway famous for its old farming practices and venerable buildings.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300129@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Those needing to head on board an evening train or bus.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300130@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Daily Itinerary (Please note: This itinerary is very subject to change depending on weather.)@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300131@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After a hearty breakfast, we begin the hike from the western edge of Jotunheimen.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300132@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We hike uphill approximately six miles to Fannaråhytta, a lodge with basic amenities located high atop Fannaraken peak (6800 feet), the tallest mountain in western Jotunheimen.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300133@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Although the miles covered are few, this is a challenging day of hiking.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300134@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We gain substantial elevation, walk across a glacier guided by a local expert, and trek deep into the park.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300135@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Fannaråhytta is famous for its above-the-clouds panoramic views.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300136@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After a leisurely morning and filling breakfast we embark on a predominantly downhill seven-mile hike.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300137@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This hike winds down among stony crags.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300138@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We descend into an amazing valley basin where tributary rivers drop as terraced waterfalls and run through unbelievable green meadows before merging and becoming the Stor Utla river.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300139@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The beauty of this place prompts us to pause often in order to soak it all in.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300140@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After stopping mid-trail for lunch we arrive at Skagadalsboen, a remote, helicopter-served lodge that features panoramic views and its own home brew.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300141@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This venerable lodge is located in a rich alpine forest.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300142@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We spend the night comfortably settled in the heart of these Norwegian woods.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300143@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We spend day three in this area, and have a choice of several different day hikes to enjoy.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300144@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Or, you can simply relax in the rustic comfort of Skagadalsboen.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300145@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We spend night three here as well.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300146@unknown@formal@none@1@S@On day four we hike to Olavsbu, another charming hut that is surrounded by lakes and glaciers.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300147@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This hike, approximately twelve miles long, wends its way along a beautiful green valley from which we gradually ascend to a higher valley surrounded by hogback mountains.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300148@unknown@formal@none@1@@We hike along lakes and and through rock formations in a starkly beautiful high alpine landscape.@@@@0@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300149@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Olavsbu is located virtually in the center of Jotunheimen and is known for the solitude it offers to those who overnight here.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300150@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After spending the night at Olavsbu we depart for the dramatic high mountain fjord Bygdin.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300151@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This day begins with a generally downhill hike of approximately nine miles.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300152@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We hike in the morning to Fondsbu where we enjoy lunch on the banks of fingerlike Bygdin fjord.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300153@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We then head south and east around Bygdin fjord, as the trail passes an alpine lake, and climbs and traverses a ridge that offers views of the fjord and beyond.@@@@1@30@@danf@24-8-2004 3300154@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This night we sleep at Yksendalsbu lodge with panoramas of dramatic cliffs and alpine meadows.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300155@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Following a leisurely breakfast we begin the hike out of the park.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300156@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We leave Yksendalsbu and hike past another beautiful lake.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300157@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After the four hour hike we meet our shuttle van at the east end of Bygdin and head east out of the park.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300158@unknown@formal@none@1@S@On this drive we stop at Ridderspranget, a spot on the powerful upper Sjoa river where the canyon walls constrict to less than ten feet apart.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300159@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From there we head to the town of Heidal where we toast a great adventure and new friends, and enjoy a Jotunheimen explorers celebration dinner.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300160@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After dinner a shuttle will be ready to return to the train station for the evening trip to your next Norwegian destination, filled with memories of your classic Europe hiking tour.@@@@1@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3300161@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Rondane Trip Overview@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300162@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Rondane is a beautiful mountain area.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300163@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It is located in the central southern part of Norway, and is divided into three different mountain regions.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300164@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Each portion of the park hosts peaks approximately 6,000 feet high.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300165@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Each of the mountain regions are connected by narrow steep escarpments.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300166@unknown@formal@none@1@S@That night we bus to the edge of the park and spend the night in a charming mountain lodge.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300167@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The trek begins with a longer hike to the beautiful Grimsdalshytta lodge.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300168@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From here we trek to the Doralseter region, an area of expansive views and nice solitude.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300169@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We then hike into the forest and visit Bjornhollia.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300170@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After a night in the woods we hike into the alpine region of the park, which hosts lakes and sharp hogback ridge mountains.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300171@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We spend two nights in this region before hiking out of the park and bussing back to Otta.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300172@unknown@formal@none@1@@Unlike the accommodations in Jotunheimen, which are a mix of "government" sponsored and privately owned lodges, Rondane's overnight spots are primarily privately owned.@@@@0@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300173@unknown@formal@none@1@S@These places are charming, venerable, and full of Norwegian culture.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300174@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Daily Itinerary@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3300175@unknown@formal@none@1@S@(Please note: This itinerary is very subject to change depending on weather.)@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300176@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After a traditional Norwegian breakfast we leave the lodge Hjerkinn, where we slept the previous night.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300177@unknown@formal@none@1@@We hike several hours, stopping many times to soak in the view, eat lunch, etc., before arrive at Grimsdalshytta, a beautiful lodge that sits just outside the park.@@@@0@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300178@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This hike is filled with views of the expansive Rondane.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300179@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This lodge features delicious dinners that we enjoy in a charming Norwegian setting.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300180@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After a relaxing breakfast we hike in alpine and forested settings en route to the Doralseter region.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300181@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This portion of the hike may provide opportunities for viewing reindeer that for centuries have called Rondane home.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300182@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Interesting rock formations and colorful lichens pepper the hillsides.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300183@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We reach Doralseter late this afternoon and enjoy another great night at a rustic lodge in an idyllic setting.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300184@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Here we enjoy a nice hearty dinner in a rustic lodge in the middle of Norwegian wilderness.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300185@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This day features a rich forest and tranquil waterways.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300186@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We leave Doralseter early this day and head to Bjørnhollia.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300187@unknown@formal@none@1@@This is a longer day of hiking as we weave our through a fir forest and down to Bjornhollia.@@@@0@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300188@unknown@formal@none@1@S@While previous days hiking time is from 6-8 hours, on this day we may hike for up to nine hours!@@@@0@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300189@unknown@formal@none@1@S@However, this is not a day with a lot of uphill hiking.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300190@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This night we relax in the tranquil setting and toast to the peace and quiet of Rondane.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300191@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After a well earned night's rest we hike up into the alpine landscape again, and head to Rondvassbu, a high mountain place with lakes and rugged peaks.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300192@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This day's hike is shorter, approximately 4-5 hours.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300193@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We will stay in this dramatic region for two days.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300194@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The second day at Rondvassbu provides many options.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300195@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We can either hike a peak (such as Rondeslottet) or we can take the boat at Lake Ronde.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300196@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This boat ride takes us up to the end of the lake from where we can hike back to the lodge.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300197@unknown@formal@none@1@S@On our last day we hike primarily downhill to the friendly lodge at Mysusseter.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300198@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Here we enjoy a traditional Norwegian dinner late in the afternoon and salute a great week of backpacking.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300199@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After dinner we bus back to Otta, in time for a night train back to Oslo.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300200@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We meet at the Otta train station at 8:00 p.m. the night before your trip.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300201@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From there we shuttle to a charming lodge at the trailhead, where we overnight.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300202@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This night's accommodations are included in your trip.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300203@unknown@formal@none@1@@At the pre-trip meeting this evening your guide will answer questions, distribute maps and provide other information.@@@@0@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300204@unknown@formal@none@1@@Please have your pack ready upon arrival at Otta, any extra luggage will be safely stored and brought to you at the end of the trek.@@@@0@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300205@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Return to Top@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300206@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Getting to Norway@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300207@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Several major airlines fly from many different U.S. cities to Gardermoen, Norway's new international airport.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300208@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In addition, trains from throughout Europe arrive daily in Oslo, from which there are several daily northbound trains to our rendezvous.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300209@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We are happy to help take care of all of your pre- and post-trip transportation needs.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300210@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We want to make your trip as affordable and convenient as possible.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300211@unknown@formal@none@1@S@To help with this, we have access to special rates with certain airlines and may be able to find you the most affordable flights to Norway.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300212@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There are regularly scheduled flights from the U.S. to Norway on several major carriers, including American Airlines, SAS, Delta, British Air, and Icelandair.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300213@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The new international airport at Gardermoen is located approximately 30 miles north of Oslo, and is served by taxi and express train.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300214@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Destination Wilderness is an agent for Icelandair.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300215@unknown@formal@none@1@@Trains from throughout Europe arrive several times a day at the Oslo Sentrum and the Gardmoen International Airport train stations, the two most common terminus for international trains arriving in Norway.@@@@0@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3300216@unknown@formal@none@1@@Oslo Sentrum is located in the heart of downtown, providing easy access to the main walking streets sidewalk cafes and our rendezvous.@@@@0@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300217@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From Oslo, you will take a train north, approximately four hours, to the town of Otta.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300218@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Gardmoen is located approximately 45 minutes north of Oslo.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300219@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Please contact our office for schedules and fares.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300220@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Natural History@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3300221@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Certain words best describe Norway: charming, wild, venerable, and pristine.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300222@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Norway is simply one of the best places on earth to visit.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300223@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It is a country filled with crystalline rivers, jagged sawtooth mountains, hanging glaciers, thick forests, and friendly villages.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300224@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For those seeking adventure in a sparsely populated, wilderness-rich, and culturally kind country, we invite you to consider Norway.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300225@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The people of Scandinavia are known adventurers.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300226@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From Leif Erickson to Thor Heyerdahl, this region has long provided the world with cutting edge explorers.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300227@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Throughout Norway, this hardiness and zest for life is apparent.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300228@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Norwegians are notorious for spending time participating in a myriad of adventure activities.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300229@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Cross-country skiing, which was a Norwegian invention, trekking, mountaineering, rafting, and other adventure sports rate high on the list of activities that Norwegians enjoy.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300230@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We believe that this is largely due to the environment in which they live, an environment that serves as the resource for one adventure after the next.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300231@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Today, Norwegians maintain their country in a proud and dignified way.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300232@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A strong socialist government assures each Norwegian of lifelong health care and support after retirement.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300233@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Old ways of life, such as farming by hand, exist peacefully beside modern conveniences and cosmopolitan pursuits.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300234@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The country works to protect its heritage.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300235@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For example it is difficult for foreigners to purchase land.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300236@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Yet, the day-to-day friendliness and helpfulness of Norwegians is apparent to any traveller with a troubled look on his or her face.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300237@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Perhaps this balance of protection and generosity is struck because Norwegians like to share their natural places yet they know that keeping these places Norwegian will preserve them for all future generations.@@@@1@32@@danf@24-8-2004 3300238@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Approximately 95% of Norway is mountain, forest or farm land, resulting in a country that has endless vistas of hillsides and valleys that are either free of development or feature the occasional colorful farmhouse.@@@@1@34@@danf@24-8-2004 3300239@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The largest tract of protected wilderness and the tallest mountains of Norway are found in Jotunheimen National Park.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300240@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Jotunheimen, the "Home of the Giants", hosts virtually every Norwegian mountain over 6,000 feet.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300241@unknown@formal@none@1@S@However, it was the Norwegian mythology and not the towering mountains that earned "Jotun (Giant) heimen (home)" its name.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300242@unknown@formal@none@1@@Story has it that the biggest and baddest giants lived in this region while humans and gods lived elsewhere.@@@@0@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300243@unknown@formal@none@1@@Most of the park's terrain is glacially carved valleys that sit an elevation of 2,500 to 5,000 feet.@@@@0@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300244@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The peaks reach up to just over 8,000 feet, with Galdhøpiggen (8100') and Glittertind (8,044') being the tallest mountains in Scandinavia.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300245@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Dozens of glaciers pepper the high cliffs throughout Jotunheimen.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300246@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The melt from these glaciers results in the hundreds of emerald green streams and lakes that are found throughout the park.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300247@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The wildlife in Jotunheimen and Rondane includes rabbit, red fox, arctic fox, lynx, wolverine and various smaller animals (mice, weasels, lemmings) as well as different birds such as sparrow and eagle.@@@@1@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3300248@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Reindeer can also be found in Rondane and Jotunheimen.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300249@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The historical importance of reindeer is found throughout these parks, as different place names include prefixes such as dyra (deer), simle (doe) and bukk (buck).@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300250@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Given the phenomenal beauty, unique geography, and cultural importance of these great places it is little wonder that they are now forever protected as national parks.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300251@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Norwegians' propensity for outdoor activities such as hiking, and the recency of Rondane and Jotunheimen's designation as a national park have led to the grandfathering and construction of mountain lodges that are discreetly and conveniently located throughout the parks.@@@@1@39@@danf@24-8-2004 3300252@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Each lodge has its own unique history.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300253@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Some have served as remote weather stations, others as wilderness survival cabins, and a few as upscale resort getaways that for generations have passed down from one family member to the next.@@@@1@32@@danf@24-8-2004 3300254@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Some are accessed by roads that end at the edge of Rondane and Jotunheimen while others are found deep in a roadless area amid towering peaks and endless wilderness vistas.@@@@1@30@@danf@24-8-2004 3300255@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Return to Top@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300256@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Norway / Europe Hiking Tour Additional Information@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300257@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Experience Required@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3300258@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Heart of Norway trip is an ideal adventure travel vacation for physically fit first-time and veteran adventurers.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300259@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The treks are generally moderate to strenuous in difficulty with elevation changes appropriate to the number of miles walked.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300260@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Some physical fatigue is to be expected during the course of the trek.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300261@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The minimum age for this trip is 16.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300262@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Participant Fitness And Activity Levels@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300263@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Destination Wilderness trips are created with active, curious, go-with-the-flow, and nature-loving adventurers in mind.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300264@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Our Heart of Norway Trek is designed for those with a zest for remote wilderness, moderate adventures and active participation, and the creature comforts of mountain lodges.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300265@unknown@formal@none@1@S@While you should be fit and in good health for this trip, you need not be a honed athlete.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300266@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We do recommend that participants train for this trip by hiking and/or working out in order to strengthen legs and backs.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300267@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It is likely that you will be sore after the first day due to the elevation gain and from carrying a pack.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300268@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Participants on this trip should be able to walk eight-plus miles a day carrying a twenty pound backpack.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300269@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Weather@@@@1@1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300270@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This trip, 200 miles north of Oslo, takes place in the mountain country of central Norway and daytime temperatures can greatly vary with highs in the 80's, and lows in the 40's are possible, with even an occasional day in the 30's.@@@@0@42@@danf@24-8-2004 3300271@unknown@formal@none@1@@Night temperatures range from the teens to 60 degrees.@@@@0@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300272@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Rainfall is possible and it can even snow, although snow is very rare in summer.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300273@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It is important to prepare for the possibility of inclement weather even though there is a greater chance of warm, sunny days.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300274@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Isle of the Midnight Sun Norway nature trip begins at Andenes, Norway, a pretty sea side town on the Vesterålen and Lofoten Islands, miles north of the Arctic Circle.@@@@1@30@@danf@24-8-2004 3300275@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After settling in to our delightful seaside accommodations we board a World Wildlife Fund research vessel and ply the northern Norwegian sea in search of the giant leviathan sperm whales that call these waters home.@@@@1@35@@danf@24-8-2004 3300276@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After an afternoon of great whale watching we return to the lodging for a great meal and a night of tranquility above the Arctic Circle.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300277@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The next day we leisurely travel overland south, to the fishing town of Reine, famous for its scenic setting of dramatic fjords and dried fish unique to this region.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3300278@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Here we will spend three days, exploring the mountains and coastal plains that sit exposed on the Norwegian Sea side of these sentinel Islands.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300279@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We also spend a day visiting a fascinating sea cave that hosts centuries old cave paintings.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300280@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This place is accessed only by nimble and exciting Zodiac rafts.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300281@unknown@formal@none@1@S@On the last day we board a ferry near the town of Å (that's right, Å), and sail back to the Norwegian mainland, filled with memories of this unique island paradise.@@@@1@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3300282@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Two-and-a-half days of this trip are spent primarily on the water.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300283@unknown@formal@none@1@S@One day we visit Refikshula, a narrow chasm that hosts 3,000 year old cave paintings.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300284@unknown@formal@none@1@S@To access the cave we travel first by large Zodiac raft over the maelstrom waters of the southern Lofotens.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300285@unknown@formal@none@1@@Another other on-water day is aboard the research whale watching vessel.@@@@0@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300286@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This is a large multi-passenger ship that features naturalists and guides familiar with the sperm whale that plies the waters off Vesterålen.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300287@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The half-day on water trip on day six is aboard a medium-sized modern ferry as we bid farewell to the islands and return to mainland Norway.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300288@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The hikes on this trip are spectacular and in open country.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300289@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We spend time hiking most days on the Lofotens including the Refikshula day where we walk along the beach and up a hill to the cave.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300290@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We also hike along Norwegian Sea headlands and over mild mountain passes that afford top of the world and edge of the earth views.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300291@unknown@formal@none@1@S@With daylight lasting almost all night there will be lots of hiking time.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300292@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Daily Itinerary (Please note: This itinerary is subject to change depending on weather.)@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300293@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Whale Watching Day!@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300294@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After meeting in the quaint and scenic town of Andenes we head to our idyllic seaside cabins, get situated, and then head out for a late afternoon of world class whale watching.@@@@1@32@@danf@24-8-2004 3300295@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We start the trip at the Andenes Whale Center which features a museum and interpretive presentation by a local naturalist.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300296@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Following this tour we board a research vessel and head out to sea for three to five hours, depending on weather and sightings.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300297@unknown@formal@none@1@S@One of the most highly regarded whale watching tours on earth, this trip typically features numerous sightings of the giant sperm whale.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300298@unknown@formal@none@1@S@However, while over 90% of these tours have whale sightings there is no guarantee.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300299@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Also, in the case of extreme weather, the trip may be canceled.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300300@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Although rare, if this does happen we may be able to reschedule for the following day.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300301@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After this trip we head back to our cottages and enjoy a delicious Norwegian dinner.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300302@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Bird Watching and Overland Day!@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300303@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From the dock near our cabins we board a sightseeing vessel and head out to the nearby coastal island that is host to thousands of puffins!@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300304@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Here we marvel at these little birds that nest on the steep cliffs.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300305@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We then travel overland from Vesterålen along the stunning rural roads of this arctic island.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300306@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We arrive in Reine in the southernmost region of the Lofotens and get comfortable in rørbus which could be considered to be some of the highest latitude island dwellings on earth!@@@@1@30@@danf@24-8-2004 3300307@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The highways and byways traveled on this day are among the most scenic in the world.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300308@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This afternoon we can explore Reine and Hamøy, the towns we will call home for the next few days.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300309@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Hiking Day!@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3300310@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We will head out for an all-day hike into the wilderness of the Lofoten Islands.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300311@unknown@formal@none@1@S@On this day we will carry our lunch with us and visit mountain passes that provide unbelievably dramatic views as far as you can see (weather permitting).@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300312@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We return this afternoon to our rørbus and have the option of rowing a boat around the inlet that hosts the towns of Reine and Hamnøy.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300313@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The hiking location varies depending on weather and ground conditions.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300314@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Refikshula Cave Day!@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300315@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After being picked up at the rørbu by the Zodiac raft we head out to the waters surrounding the Lofotens and travel south along the jagged coast until we reach the docking point for Refikshula.@@@@1@35@@danf@24-8-2004 3300316@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From here, we walk up and into the cave that hosts centuries-old cave paintings.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300317@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Here our naturalist/guide explains how the ancient people chose to visit and inhabit the cave.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300318@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After returning to the rørbus we have the option of hiking again, just relaxing at the rørbus, or exploring the friendly confines of Reine.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300319@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Another Hiking Day!@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300320@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We venture to another part of this amazing place and spend the day exploring by foot the mountain passes, expansive beaches, and alpine meadows that make Lofoten a premier hiking locale.@@@@1@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3300321@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The panoramas and forever views can leave you awestruck by the power and beauty of natural Norway.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300322@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Arctic Sea Crossing Day!@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300323@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After a leisurely morning we board the ferry to return to the mainland.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300324@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This ferry ride, approximately three hours long, affords great views of the Norwegian coast as we pull away from the knife-edge archipelago, and increasingly dramatic views of the Norwegian coast as we approach Bodø.@@@@1@34@@danf@24-8-2004 3300325@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We reach Bodø in the late afternoon and participate in a celebration dinner and toast to a great Europe adventure travel trip, which we complete in time for the all night train to Trondheim.@@@@1@34@@danf@24-8-2004 3300326@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Lofoten Islands and their northern neighbor the Vesterålen Islands sit dozens of miles west of the upper Norwegian mainland.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300327@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Here, above the Arctic circle, this string of land stands guard over the Norwegian Sea.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300328@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Buffeted by the warmer air of the gulf stream, the Lofotens have surprisingly good weather considering their extreme northern latitudes.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300329@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Interestingly, though these islands are only a few miles wide, the inner or eastern coast gets noticeably more sunlight, as the outer western coast is more susceptible to marine influences such as fog and rain.@@@@1@35@@danf@24-8-2004 3300330@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This truly is the land of the midnight sun.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300331@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From most points on the islands the sun never sets from late May to mid July.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300332@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In August, although the sun dips below the horizon for a few minutes, the sky remains lit throughout the night, often in a beautiful purple or orange tint.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300333@unknown@formal@none@1@S@These skies are best described as unforgettable, as they are perfectly framed by the jagged peaks of the Lofoten's razorback mountains and the rich blue waters surrounding the island.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3300334@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The geology of this region is as unique as the islands are remote.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300335@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Both the oldest and youngest rocks in Norway are found here.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300336@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The older, 3 billion year old rocks form the plateaus on which the few Lofoten Island villages and towns are built.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300337@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The younger rocks form the sharp ridges and peaks that dominate the island.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300338@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Geologists believe that these mountains were so high during recent ice ages that they were not covered by ice.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300339@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Equal parts stunning seascapes and wild landscapes, Norway has given rise to a country of seafarers and land lovers.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300340@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Nowhere does the love of the outdoors and a passion for hiking thrive more than here.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300341@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Beginning in the port city of Bergen, hiking long classic routes through celebrated hiking areas, and ending in Oslo, we hope to capture as much of the essence of Norway as possible in this 14-day trip.@@@@1@36@@danf@24-8-2004 3300342@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From Bergen, we will travel east by railway to the highest stop on the Oslo--Bergen line, Finse.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300343@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Descending at this isolated outpost we will begin our hike through the Aurlandsdalen.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300344@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Almost certainly used by the Vikings and later by mediaeval cattle and horse drovers, this 3-day route follows an ancient east-west thoroughfare to the shores of the Aurlandsfjord.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300345@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Until 1970 it was only possible to travel down this valley on foot.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300346@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The valley still retains a wild feel, and the route ranks as one of Norway's most beautiful and classic hikes.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300347@unknown@formal@none@1@@Arriving in the village of Aurland, we'll then transfers by ferry and bus to the very eastern end of the Sognefjord, to begin our hike through the Jotunheimen Nasjonalpark ("Home of Giants").@@@@0@32@@danf@24-8-2004 3300348@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Jotunheimen encompasses an amazing concentration of high peaks for the 3900 square kilometers that it covers.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300349@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Within its boundaries lie Norway and Northern Europe's two highest peaks, Galdhopiggen (8,148') and Glittertind (8,131').@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300350@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This is a landscape of sharp summits and heaving glaciers towering high above river valleys and lake-studded plateaus.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300351@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There are no public roads into the interior area of the park and it is only accessible to visitors on skis or on foot.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300352@unknown@formal@none@1@@Our route across the southern section of the park will be highlighted a two day traverse along the famously beautiful Lake Gjende, considered by UNESCO to be one of the worlds most important lakes.@@@@0@34@@danf@24-8-2004 3300353@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We will end our trip in the vibrant city of Oslo, with a day free to explore the city and its many museums and historic sites, including the Norwegian Folk Museum and the Viking Ship Museum.@@@@1@36@@danf@24-8-2004 3300354@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Itinerary@@@@1@1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300355@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 1: Independent travel to the hotel in Bergen.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300356@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Orientation and welcome dinner.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300357@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 2: Transfer to Finse.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300358@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We will have the morning free to explore the city of Bergen.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300359@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Considered one of the country's most enjoyable cities, Bergen has a laid back easy-going nautical feel.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300360@unknown@formal@none@1@@This thriving port city is host to a several good museums and fine medieval buildings.@@@@0@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300361@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 3: Hike from Finse to Geiterygghytta.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300362@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Today we begin our three-day hike through the narrow and wild valley of Aurlandsdal following the final miles of an ancient thoroughfare that connected western and eastern Norway.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300363@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 4: Our route begins with a climb up the slope of the Sundhellerskarvet, passing below its imposing peak.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300364@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Scrambling over rocky outcroppings and wandering through birch groves, we'll have views of the waterfall from the River Grona before arriving at Osterbo and our hut.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300365@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 5: We leave the hut following the river downstream.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300366@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Views across to the opposite bank reveal plunging streams and towering cliffs.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300367@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Further down the trail a short detour will bring us to Vetlahelvete (Little Hell Cave), a domed water-filled cave lit through a narrow opening at its top.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300368@unknown@formal@none@1@S@As we descend to the river huge rock walls will tower above us as the river rushes wildly below us.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300369@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 5: Ferry from Aurland to Skjolden.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300370@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Bus to Sognefjellshytta.@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300371@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We'll have the morning free to relax or explore the village.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300372@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Aurland is the site of Vangen Church a medieval stone church built in 1202.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300373@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We will travel along the shores of the Lustrafjord on Highway 55, Norway's highest mountain road.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300374@unknown@formal@none@1@S@As it twists its way up to a high mountain plateau offering stunning views of the Jotunheimen's icy peaks to the east.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300375@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We should arrive at Sognefjellshytta in the early evening.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300376@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 6: From Sognefjellshytta, we follow the valley of Helgedalen along the river up to the Skautehaugane.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300377@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Crossing between the lakes of Skautevatnet and Illvatnet we will make our way to Keiserpasset.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300378@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We'll have fine views of the glacier Gjertvassbreen and the peaks of Styggedalstindane and Gjertvasstind as we descend through the lovely valley of Gjertvassdalen along its raging river.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300379@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 7: Hike to Olavsbu.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300380@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Leaving Skogadalsboen, we'll retrace our steps down through the birch woods.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300381@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Following along the Storutla River, we will hike up the valley until our route diverges to east and we enter the valley of Raudalen.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300382@unknown@formal@none@1@S@With the peak of Raudalstindane coming into view we will follow a chain of small lakes until we reach the larger lake of Raudalsvatnet.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300383@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After hiking along the shore, we continue up stream to Olavsbu where we will spend the night.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300384@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 9: Leaving Olavsbu we will continue to make our way through the quiet lake-laced valley of Raudalen, dominated to north by Raudalsegga and to the south by Sjogholstind.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3300385@unknown@formal@none@1@S@As we turn northeast and descend through the valley of Vesleadalen we'll have fine views of Lake Gjende below us.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300386@unknown@formal@none@1@S@18 kilometers long, this glacial fed lake is wonderfully green in color.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300387@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 10: Gjendebu to Memurubu.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300388@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This is one of the finest hikes in the Jotunheimen.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300389@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Along with fine views of the lake, we should see many of the glaciers and peaks of the Jotunheimen.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300390@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A 30-minute hike along the lakeshore brings us to the start of our ascent.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300391@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This is a steep, rocky section of trail with "rope and fences at more exposed places", but once the top of the climb is reached the views are expansive.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3300392@unknown@formal@none@1@@To the to the east we'll see tomorrows route over the Besseggen Ridge.@@@@0@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300393@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We pass several mountain lakes along the Lagtunga ridge, before descending to our lakeside hut.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300394@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 11: Hike to Gjendesheim.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300395@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The last hike of our journey across the southern Jotunheimen is one of Norway's most well known walks made famous with the help of Henrik Ibsen's poem, Peer Gynt.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3300396@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In the poem Peer Gynt rides wildly across the Besseggen Ridge on the back of a reindeer before tumbling into the lake.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300397@unknown@formal@none@1@S@(Optional activity.)@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3300398@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The views on this route are "staggering" as it traverses 400 meters (1,320') above Lake Gjende.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300399@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There is a shorter route from Memurubu to Gjendesheim and a ferry as well.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300400@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 12: Transfer to Oslo.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300401@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We will depart Gjendesheim in the morning by private bus to Oslo.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300402@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Enroute we will stop in Lillehammer allowing time to explore the town and some of its museums.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300403@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Sandvig Collection at Maihaugen is the largest open-air museum in Europe encompassing 185 buildings and presenting more than 40,000 artifacts.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300404@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Maihaugen offers a glimpse of rural Norwegian society through churches, homes, farmyards and tools from the Gudbrandsdalen valley, which extends north from Lillehammer.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300405@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We will arrive in Oslo early evening@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300406@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 13: Today you will be free to explore the city.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300407@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Farewell dinner followed by a spelling bee of Norwegian place names.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300408@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 14: Depart Oslo.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300409@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The tour will end with breakfast at the hotel.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300410@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Gardermoen Airport is an easy train or bus ride from the downtown station.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300411@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For those who are interested in a traditional Norwegian hut-to-hut hiking experience, we are offering a hike through Rondane National Park.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300412@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Established as Norway's first National Park in 1962, this is an intriguing and much beloved hiking area.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300413@unknown@formal@none@1@S@With the Rondane massif as its centerpiece, many regard these mountains as the finest and most beautiful in Norway.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300414@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A much-celebrated painting by Harald Sohlberg of the Rondane Mountains of Rondeslottet and Hogronden, called "Winter night in the Mountains", hangs in the National Gallery in Oslo.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300415@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The park is divided into three distinct groups of mountains, all over 2,000 meters, or roughly 6,600 feet, in elevation.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300416@unknown@formal@none@1@S@To the east are Rondvasshogda, Storronden, and the highest of all Rondeslottet at 2,178 meters.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300417@unknown@formal@none@1@S@To the west are Smiubelgen with Veslesmeden (2,016), Storsmeden (2,017') and Sagtinden (2,018') all linked by narrow saddles creating a wild and picturesque cirque.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300418@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The third group, divided from Rondvasshogda and Smiubelgen by the deep valley of Langglupdalen, consists of (2,114') Midtronden and Digerronden.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300419@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Beginning in the north of the park, we will hike south through this landscape carved by the Ice Age.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300420@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Impressive, barren mountains, narrow canyons and deep cirques characterize this high plateau that is still home to Norway's last herd of wild reindeer.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300421@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By staying in classic huts and mountain lodges, and hiking past ancient trapping sites, through the expansive terrain that lies beneath the guiding peaks of Hogronden, Midtronden, and Digerronden, Norway's robust natural and cultural history should reveal itself abundantly.@@@@1@39@@danf@24-8-2004 3300422@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We will begin and end our trip in the vibrant city of Oslo, with time to explore the city and its many museums and historic sites, including the Norwegian Folk Museum and the Viking Ship Museum.@@@@1@36@@danf@24-8-2004 3300423@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Itinerary@@@@1@1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300424@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 1: Independent travel to the hotel in Oslo.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300425@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 2: Transfer by bus to Sletten.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300426@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Our transfer from Oslo to our farm at Sletten will take the better part of the day.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300427@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At the foot of the Dovrefjell mountain range, we'll leave the E6 heading east to Sletten and our accommodations for the night.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300428@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 3: Hike from Sletten to Grimsdalshytta.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300429@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This area is rich in evidence of ancient Viking settlements dating back to 800 AD.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300430@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Near the Grimsdalshytta are said to be graves from this period, and there are also remnants of animal pit traps in the area as well.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300431@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 4: Hike to Øvre Dørålseter .@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300432@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From Grimsdalshytta, we cross the bridge over the Grimsa River, and begin our climb up to the flat terrain between the peaks of Gravho and Gravhodalseter.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300433@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Crossing this plain, we then descend through woods to the valley of Haverdalen.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300434@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We ascend again following a stream up the slope of Stygghoin into the wild, rocky gap Doralglupen surrounded by fairytale-like mountains.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300435@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We'll end our day at the hut at Øvre Dørålseter.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300436@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 5: Today we will head southwest up the Doralen valley.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300437@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Our route will trace the river for couple of kilometers before turning south.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300438@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Our gradual ascent traces the west of the stream of Bergedalsbekken, past a series of small lakes bringing us to the junction of three valleys, the Bergedalen, and Langglupdalen.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3300439@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Continuing up the Rondvassdalen we will reach the northern end lake of Rondvatnet.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300440@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Here we will board a ferry that crosses the lake to Rondvassbu.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300441@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 6: Rest day at Rondvassbu.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300442@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Today can be spent relaxing at the hut or hiking up to one of the nearby summits of Rondeslottet, Storronden, or Veslesmeden.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300443@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 7: Hike to Bjørnhollia.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300444@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From Rondvassbu, we continue east along the valley of Illmanndalen.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300445@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The day begins with a short, steep ascent before the route eases into a pleasant traverse of the valley as it skirts a series of small mountain lakes.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300446@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 8: Hike to Eldåbu.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300447@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Leaving Bjørnhollia, we follow a track to the old farm of Gamalseter.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300448@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Crossing the bridge over the stream of Myldinga we'll begin our climb up the western slope of Geitsida.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300449@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Joining the Steindalen valley as it wedges its way between the slopes of Hornflagan to the west and Geitsida to the east, we'll descend to North Vulutjorn Lake.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300450@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Continuing along South Lake to the brook, we pass several small mountain lakes as we follow along the foot of Bagaskardshogdin.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300451@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Our hut is near a babbling brook nestled in a beautiful birch forest.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300452@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 9: Hike to Venabu.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300453@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From Eldåbu, we continue to the old farm at Eldaseter.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300454@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Rising up through wooded terrain to a long moraine ridge, we continue to the hotel at Venabu.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300455@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 10: Transfer by 20-minute taxi to Ringebu, and then take the train to Oslo arriving at 3:00 pm.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300456@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Farewell dinner followed by a spelling bee of Norwegian place names!@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300457@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Day 11: Depart Oslo.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300458@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Norway - A paradise for hiking!@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300459@unknown@formal@none@1@S@While the greater part of Norway consists of a high mountain plateau, do not imagine that it is flat.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300460@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Far from it.@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300461@unknown@formal@none@1@@The plateau is carved by deep valleys, while large rock formations and snowcapped peaks tower several thousand feet above it.@@@@0@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300462@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Western Norway also has Europe's largest glacier, the Jostedalsbre.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300463@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Then there are magnificent waterfalls, peaceful lakes and fjords thrusting their way into the heart of the mountains.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300464@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In short, ideal hiking terrain.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300465@unknown@formal@none@1@S@How do you get there?@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300466@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Before you start hiking, you must make your way by train, bus or car to one of the starting points of your tour.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300467@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From then on you have to rely on yourself and your own level of fitness as you move from hut to hut.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300468@unknown@formal@none@1@S@So if you are thinking of an active way of spending your days off or your holidays, this is worth considering.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300469@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You are likely to find it a rewarding holiday, far from the stress, noise and crowds of everyday life.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300470@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Besides, there is hardly a better way of getting to know Norway than by hiking in the mountains.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300471@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You will meet kindred spirits, Norwegians as well as overseas visitors, and together with them you will enjoy a unique sense of fellowship and achievement.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300472@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Does it sound great?@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300473@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Find out more about hiking in Norway by visiting these sites:@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300474@unknown@formal@none@1@S@DNT, The Norwegian Mountain Touring Association, is a nationwide organization for hikers, founded in 1868.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300475@unknown@formal@none@1@S@DNT promotes a healthy, natural and active outdoor life in the mountains and woodlands by operating lodges, marking summer and winter routes, arranging guided tours and practical courses and publishing a yearbook, a magazine and other information material.@@@@1@38@@danf@24-8-2004 3300476@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Membership is open to all.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300477@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Bergen Turlag is the local branch of DNT in Bergen.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300478@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Feel free to contact them for hiking routes near Bergen.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300479@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This site will help you get to peaks, summits and mountains near Bergen and in Hordaland.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300480@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The site will provide you with access information, trail description(s), pictures and other relevant information.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300481@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Also of interest are the mountains around the Rosendal community in Kvinnherad kommune.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300482@unknown@formal@none@1@S@These mountains are also refered to as the Rosendal alps (see picture on top of page), having an alpine profile unlike what is typical for mountains in Hordaland fylke in general.@@@@1@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3300483@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The wild and rugged mountains stretch all the way to Uskedalen, just south-west of Rosendal.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300484@unknown@formal@none@1@@In this area, one finds the characteristic Ulvanosa and Englafjell peaks, easily seen from Bergen on a decent clear day.@@@@0@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300485@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Uskedalen is also a popular area for technical climbing, especially the north face of the Ulvanosa massif.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300486@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A number of other well known peaks on the peninsula should attract hikers - Grimsnuten, Jonstein, Torsnuten, Solnuten, to name a few.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300487@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In addition, the narrow ridge traverse from Rosendal to Folgefonna across Bjørndalstindane and Juklavasskruna is a hike not easily forgotten.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300488@unknown@formal@none@1@S@To Bjørndalstinden@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3300489@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Petter and I had been talking about this traverse for quite some time, and this week-end we finally had the opportunity.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300490@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Jan-Frode wanted to come along for the trip.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300491@unknown@formal@none@1@S@He had given this ridge a shot earlier, but was turned down by ugly weather.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300492@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The weather for this Sunday was supposed to be brilliant.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300493@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We all expected the local fog to be burnt off by the time we got to higher ground.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300494@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Due to late departing ferries from Gjermundshamn on Sundays, we didn't get going until 09:25AM.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300495@unknown@formal@none@1@@We very very excited to be on the way.@@@@0@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300496@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We expected that the long rope and iron tools would solve most of the challenges along the way, but we really had no clue on what kind of challenges we would encounter.@@@@1@32@@danf@24-8-2004 3300497@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We would just have to deal with them along the way.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300498@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The first challenge was to find the trail from Muradalen.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300499@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After briefly messing around in the forest, we adjusted the course and found the trail towards Andersfjellet/Bjørndalen.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300500@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It was a hot day, and we took our time up the mountain.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300501@unknown@formal@none@1@S@High on Andersfjellet we scouted for a possible descent route.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300502@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The initial plan was to descend in Bjørndalen's inner basin.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300503@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It looked steep, but doable.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300504@unknown@formal@none@1@S@And in any case, we had the rope.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300505@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Higher on Andersfjellet, we modified the plan and decided to descend Bjørndalsnuten's north-west ridge.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300506@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The ridge seemed slightly less steep, and we could collect another mountain top, although this one not ranked.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300507@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Once on Andersfjellet summit, it was clear that the fog would be a slight problem.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300508@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We had no view of the Bjørndalsnuten SW ridge, which made planning somewhat harder.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300509@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The second option was to get on the Melderskin - Bjørndalstindane ridge, but Petter believed a notch would cause more problems on that route.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300510@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We decided to get lucky on the SW ridge.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300511@unknown@formal@none@1@S@First, the 1223m point had to be passed.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300512@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The climb to the top was steep, but unproblematic.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300513@unknown@formal@none@1@S@But at least we got into scrambling mode.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300514@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I was overeager and got way ahead of the others on my way to the SW ridge.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300515@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The initial part looked ridiculously steep and I decided to bypass these problems and follow a grassy pitch on the left hand side.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300516@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Of course, Petter and Jan-Frode took on the ridge directly, and I got a bit nervous about getting stuck in the steep side below the ridge.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300517@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I fumbled around for a route up, and had the sensation that everything was vertical.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300518@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Finally, I made it back on to the ridge, and watched Petter and Jan-Frode take on the various obstacles further down on the ridge.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300519@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After some further light scrambling, we were in easy terrain and entered the highest of the Bjørndalstindane peaks at 1:35PM.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300520@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The traverse@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3300521@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I was full of joy of reaching the summit, and after one glance towards the "humps from hell", also known as the further route, I just wanted to go home.@@@@1@30@@danf@24-8-2004 3300522@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I couldn't believe that this sort of terrain could exist in Hordaland, where 99.8% of the mountains are friendly and easily traveled.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300523@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The fog that dressed the mountains only added value to the atmosphere.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300524@unknown@formal@none@1@@I was perhaps relieved of the fact that I didn't get to see valley floor.@@@@0@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300525@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After a meal on the summit, we decided to rope up.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300526@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It seemed to be the kind of terrain where the rope is your friend.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300527@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The south side of the "humps from hell" was quite friendly, and I cursed the rope after only 5 minutes.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300528@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The distance between us was too long, and the echo distorted any vocal communication.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300529@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If there was to be any sense in the rope, it should be tight when the leader climbed down.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300530@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This also meant that I had only seconds to complete the awkward moves before the rope pulled me further.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300531@unknown@formal@none@1@S@And once down in the saddle between the two Bjørndalstindane summits, we decided to put the rope back into the rucksack.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300532@unknown@formal@none@1@S@As the others were in "high ridge mode", it felt like cheating taking the sensible route around obstacles.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300533@unknown@formal@none@1@S@So, in the saddle, I started climbing the high ridge towards the 2nd of the two summits.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300534@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The ridge was narrow indeed.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300535@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I did not find words in my vocabulary to express the exposure down to my left.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300536@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For a moment I got stuck on the ridge, standing on my knees, trying to figure out an answer to the obvious question - Why?@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300537@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I acclimated fast and continued up the ridge without further glitches in the psyche.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300538@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The 2nd summit was by far the narrowest peak I have ever been on.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300539@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Petter and I crowded the summit.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300540@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I only got a glimpse of the route ahead.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300541@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It looked narrow.@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300542@unknown@formal@none@1@S@And then it disappeared into the big white nothing.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300543@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Jan-Frode was leading on across the ridge towards Juklavasskruna.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300544@unknown@formal@none@1@@Swiftly, he passed over obstacles that were more time consuming for Petter and myself.@@@@0@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300545@unknown@formal@none@1@@At one point on the ridge, we were downclimbing face in while Jan-Frode was giving us suggestions on where to put our feet.@@@@0@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300546@unknown@formal@none@1@S@How did he swing down here without building up a queue?@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300547@unknown@formal@none@1@S@When we finally reached the western Juklavasskruna pillar, the confidence I had built up swept away like a newspaper in a storm.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300548@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The pillar was not only high, it was ugly-steep.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300549@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I looked towards an inviting grassy pitch, bypassing the pillar, hoping the rest of the team felt the same way.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300550@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We could obviously climb this thing using ropes and belays, but it would take considerable time.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300551@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If there was a way around this thing, then why not.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300552@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The fog (and a poor map resolution) caused some uncertainty whether this pillar was the 2nd of the two Bjørndalstindane summits.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300553@unknown@formal@none@1@S@But then Petter realized that this had to be Juklavasskruna, and exactly the place where a friend of his had tried to rappel down, only to be hanging high above ground with no more rope.@@@@1@35@@danf@24-8-2004 3300554@unknown@formal@none@1@S@His friend had told him that they had to climb back up, and bypass the pillar on the south side.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300555@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The grassy pitch we were looking at could very well be that route.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300556@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The grassy pitch had its degree of exposure, but in dry conditions, the route felt safe enough.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300557@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We gradually climbed upwards until there was no more grassy route to follow, and then climbed directly onto the ridge.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300558@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In order to gain the ridge, we could choose between climbing through a V-crack, or in a more creative fashion directly onto the ridge.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300559@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I had great fun in manouvering through the V-crack, but Petter didn't like my recommendation and wondered why I had put him in this situation.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300560@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Jan-Frode decided to climb up outside this crack.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300561@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I could see a cairn 50-60m away and started a solo journey before Jan-Frode had reached the high ridge.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300562@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I wanted to take some photos as they came along the narrow and airy ridge.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300563@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Just before the summit I stared down to a deep notch in the ridge.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300564@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The climb down had an insane exposure.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300565@unknown@formal@none@1@@I decided to downclimb face out.@@@@0@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300566@unknown@formal@none@1@S@When I was parallel to the ridge (below me was just the rock I was standing on, and nothing else), I prepared to move onto the ridge through a gentle swing.@@@@1@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3300567@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I saw a chance that the move could fail, and made sure I had the right holds.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300568@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The first move failed and I felt significant stress come upon me as I bounced back on the narrow rock I was standing on.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300569@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This was an interesting moment.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300570@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It was just me and this tricky move.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300571@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The others hadn't arrived yet.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300572@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Only one year ago I would have been busy with cursing everyone, finding every excuse to turn around, but having to complete the job anyway with a "I'll never hike mountains again!" mindset.@@@@1@33@@danf@24-8-2004 3300573@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Now it was just me and the problem.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300574@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I felt a strong sense of satisfaction noticing the heart beating at its normal rhythm.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300575@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The second swing was successful, and 4:05PM I sat down on the Juklavasskruna high point cairn.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300576@unknown@formal@none@1@@The others came across the ridge and was highly surprised to find this type of obstacle, so close to the summit.@@@@0@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300577@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After measuring the height using two GPS receivers, we concluded that Juklavasskruna was 21m higher than what we had perceived.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300578@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The traverse seen from Bjorndalsnuten@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300579@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The "thriller" finish@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300580@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The remaining ridge towards the Juklavasskruna plateau was no easier than the ridgewalks we had done so far.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300581@unknown@formal@none@1@S@But soon we were on the plateau, and stopped by the 1434m cairn, only to verify that this point was as high as the map stated.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300582@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Then we headed across the plateau, on the way towards Bjørndalsnuten.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300583@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We had only carried one litre of water each, and 1 litre/7 hours is way too little.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300584@unknown@formal@none@1@S@When we found running water on the Juklavasskruna plateau, I almost fainted after satisfying the thirst.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300585@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I had trouble with both vision and balance.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300586@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After gaining self-control, I concluded that there was nothing wrong with me.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300587@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The water was just "THAT GOOD".@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300588@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We scrambled down to the Bjørndalsnuten ridge and started to move across the ridge.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300589@unknown@formal@none@1@@We reached the Bjørndalsnuten high point at 6:02PM and I asked Petter when the last ferry was departing from Løfallstrand.@@@@0@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300590@unknown@formal@none@1@S@22-something, he replied.@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300591@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We still had a long way to go, and the overall team tempo was decreasing.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300592@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Before us, we had a 200m climb back onto the trail over Andersfjellet, which we knew would be time consuming.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300593@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At 7:15PM, on the way down from Bjørndalsnuten, Petter presented "Plan B".@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300594@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Plan B was about making it across the south side of lake Isorvatnet.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300595@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At the far end of the lake, we could follow the trail from lake Prestavatnet down to the Muradalen valley.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300596@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This meant no upwards hiking, which would be of great benefit, time-wise.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300597@unknown@formal@none@1@@The concern was that we had to cross the river from lake Stølsvatnet to gain lake Isorvatnet's south side (the north side was way too steep, and this is where the trail to Andersfjellet ran).@@@@0@35@@danf@24-8-2004 3300598@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Then, the river from lake Isorvatnet had to be crossed to get onto the trail to Muradalen.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300599@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Petter suggested that I ran down to the lake and looked for a way across.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300600@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If I could make it down to the valley, then I could go and get the car and drive it to the end of the valley (ignoring any signs prohibiting traffic).@@@@1@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3300601@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If I couldn't make it across the lake, then I was to come back and join the group.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300602@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Missing the last ferry involved a high probability that we would have to drive to Bergen via Hol-Aurland.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300603@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This would take 6-7 hours, and was clearly the very last option.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300604@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I ran down to Bjørndal and uttered sounds in pure joy when I discovered a bridge across the river and a visible trail along the south side of lake Isorvatnet.@@@@1@30@@danf@24-8-2004 3300605@unknown@formal@none@1@S@My heart rhythm involved some extra beats when I was approaching lake Prestavatnet.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300606@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The river was raging.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300607@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Would there be a second bridge?@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300608@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Yup, there it was.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300609@unknown@formal@none@1@@The trail down along the waterfall from lake Prestavatnet was cumbersome, and wires provided welcomed handhold.@@@@0@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300610@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Across the boulder section below I had to look hard for the trail.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300611@unknown@formal@none@1@S@But by 8:35PM, I was down in the valley and ran the remaining 2,2Km for the car.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300612@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I called my colleague Tore "always on-line" Larsen and asked him to look up the last ferry from Løfallstrand on the www.hsd.no web site.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300613@unknown@formal@none@1@S@As I was on the border of cellular coverage, I said I would call back for the answer when the others had come down from the mountain.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300614@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I wasn't sure how fast the others were advancing, and decided to head back up with a headlight.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300615@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If darkness came upon them, they would have problems following the trail down the waterfall.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300616@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At 9:15PM, I met Petter and Jan-Frode about 200m above Muradalen.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300617@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I was very happy to see them.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300618@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Perhaps we would reach the ferry after all.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300619@unknown@formal@none@1@@We were down by the car at 9:35PM and I dropped them off at their car by the trailhead 9:40PM.@@@@0@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300620@unknown@formal@none@1@S@On the way to the ferry, I called Tore.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300621@unknown@formal@none@1@S@He told me that the last ferry left at 10:00PM.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300622@unknown@formal@none@1@@We arrived at Løfallstrand 9:51PM.@@@@0@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300623@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The hike took 12 hours, 10 minutes.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300624@unknown@formal@none@1@S@How's that for cutting it close?@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300625@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Enjoy a close encounter with western Norway's convoluted coastline, a landscape that has been called the most beautiful on Earth.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300626@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Here towering granite cliffs plunge into deep, twisting fjords that wind their way for as much as a hundred miles into Norway's rocky core.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300627@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Picturesque villages and farms huddle where the topography permits.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300628@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Stroll to ancient stave churches, and hike to the blue face of glaciers to see how the hand of ice is still at work shaping the Scandinavian landscape.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300629@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Enjoy thrilling walks and hikes to glorious vantage points and isolated summer farms perched high above the fjords.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300630@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Gain a better appreciation for the resiliency of the Norwegians who have over the centuries come to terms with and thrived in this rugged, harsh, and magnificent environment.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300631@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Overnight in Lofthus@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300632@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Dinner included@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3300633@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Depart Bergen and visit Troldhaugen, home of Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300634@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Travel to Lofthus, a fjord village in the Hardanger region known for its fruit orchards.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300635@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Enjoy the ambiance of one of Fjord Norway's most renowned hotels, your base for two nights.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300636@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Stretch your legs on an afternoon walk to the waterfalls that plunge over the edge of the great Hardangervidda plateau into the Opo Valley.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300637@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The waterfall named Skrikjo ("shriek") plunges down the face of the escarpment at the head of the valley in a thin stream while the Bjørnabyksefoss tumbles down the valley's north wall in a series of powerful, roaring cascades.@@@@1@38@@danf@24-8-2004 3300638@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A cabin that Edvard Grieg used while staying in the Hardanger region can be found on the hotel grounds.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300639@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Overnight in Lofthus@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300640@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Breakfast & dinner included@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300641@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Follow the route of the Munketrappene ("Monk's Steps") which leads to the fabulous vantage point called Nosi ("the nose") at the edge of the windswept Hardangervidda.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300642@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Marvel at the cataracts that plunge in a foaming spectacle through narrow canyons on their way to the fjords below.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300643@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For a longer hike, continue into the austere, tundra environment of the Hardangervidda where rushing streams link a myriad of high country lakes.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300644@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Be on the lookout for cloudberries (Rubus chamæorus)---highly prized by Scandinavians.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300645@unknown@formal@none@1@@They can sometimes can be found in the Hardangervidda's high windswept meadows.@@@@0@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300646@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Descend the old trail to Stuvasete to return to your hotel nestled in the luxuriant green landscapes of fjord country.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300647@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Overnight in Flåm@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300648@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Breakfast & dinner included@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300649@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Travel to Voss and catch a train to the mountain settlement of Myrdal.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300650@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Myrdal is the mountain terminus of the Flåm rail line (or Flåmsbana) which makes its way down the lovely Flåm Valley (Flåmsdalen) to its sea-level terminus at Flåm.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300651@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You can hop aboard the train for the spectacular 55 minute journey to Flåm.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300652@unknown@formal@none@1@@Or, if you desire, you can walk down the peaceful yet dramatic valley filled with waterfalls and tumbling streams all the way to Flåm completing a journey from fra fjell til fjord ("from mountain to sea").@@@@0@36@@danf@24-8-2004 3300653@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Alternatively, you can shorten the walk by riding the train down the valley, disembarking at one of the intermediate stations and starting your hike from there!@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300654@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The walking route down the Flåm Valley is along the Rallarveg, a narrow, well-graded gravel road that was built originally between 1885 and 1898 to serve as a construction road for the Flåm railway.@@@@1@34@@danf@24-8-2004 3300655@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Shortly after departing Myrdal, the route descends quickly via a series of short switchbacks alongside a rushing stream.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300656@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The trail levels out as it approaches the hamlet of Kårdal.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300657@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Here, rocky buttresses constrict the flow of the Flåmselvi (Flåm River) resulting in a powerful, foaming cataract.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300658@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The route continues to descend at a gentle grade to the station at Berekvam, approximately midway between Myrdal and Flåm.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300659@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Continuing on, pass the Høge Bro (bridge) where you can watch the Flåm River emerging from a man-made tunnel into which the river was diverted during the railroad's construction.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3300660@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Before reaching Flåm and its wooden church, pass the lovely waterfall called Rjoande, streaming gracefully down the Flåmsdal's western wall.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300661@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Overnight in Aurland@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300662@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Breakfast & lunch included@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300663@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Travel to the fjord-side village of Undredal whose name allegedly derives from the Norwegian word under meaning "wonder."@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300664@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From Undredal a small boat will take you to a trailhead from where you begin one of the most exhilarating hikes in fjord Norway.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300665@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The trail leads by switchbacks to a farm (accessible only by trail) built on a cliff-top shelf of land 1,000 feet above the water.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300666@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The nineteenth-century farmhouse at the top commands a stupendous view of the cobalt waters of the Aurlandsfjord.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300667@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Enjoy a prepared lunch and a "million dollar view."@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300668@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After lunch, if you desire, follow a rugged trail into the mountains climbing past several small summer farms (now abandoned) to reach a flat ridge high above the confluence of the Nærøyfjord and Aurlandsfjord.@@@@1@34@@danf@24-8-2004 3300669@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The views from this lofty "balcony" are simply stupendous.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300670@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We especially enjoyed being in small towns with `real' Norwegians.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300671@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We found the food to be `home cooking' good, and we actually started to look forward to herring at breakfast!@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300672@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We enjoyed every bite!@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300673@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Overnight in Aurland@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300674@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Breakfast & dinner included@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300675@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After breakfast, a twenty minute drive brings you to Gudvangen.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300676@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Here, you can thrill to the spectacle of waterfalls like the Kjelfoss streaming off the 3,000 foot high cliffs that hem in this small settlement at the head of Europe's narrowest fjord--the Nærøyfjord.@@@@1@33@@danf@24-8-2004 3300677@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Continue to an isolated and picturesque fjord hamlet surrounded by towering mountain walls.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300678@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From this point, energetic hikers can set off on a spectacular mountain crossing via an old, abandoned seter ("summer farm") track that offers almost aerial views of the sinuous course of the Nærøyfjord.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300679@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The route climbs through three glacier-carved amphitheaters skirting lakes and waterfalls before reaching the high pass at Vardane from where it descends into the tundra-like landscapes of the Jordalen.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3300680@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For a more moderate option, travel by vehicle over an exciting road to the remote outpost of Breidalen.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300681@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A little-used path ascends through the vast, open meadow country of the Breidalsbotn to a mountain pass overlooking a cirque carved out of the flanks of the Skarsnosi mountain.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3300682@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Overnight in Sogndal@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300683@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Breakfast included@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3300684@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This morning hike high above Aurland to the summit of Prest, where you'll enjoy bird's eye views over the entire length of the Aurlandsfjord and the tundra of the high vidda which stretches away to the east.@@@@1@37@@danf@24-8-2004 3300685@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Then travel by vehicle to the Lærdal, a valley well-known for its salmon fishery.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300686@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Walk the historic route known as the Vindhellaveg ("way of the winding incline") to the beautiful 12th-century Borgund Stave Church, one of Norway's best preserved stave churches, richly ornamented with carvings.@@@@1@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3300687@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There were at one time about 1,000 stave churches in Norway; about 28 are left today.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300688@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Vindhellaveg was first built in 1793 and rebuilt in the mid-19th century.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300689@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Today, the old road is closed to traffic, its grassy tread maintained for the delight of walkers.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300690@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You can return to the trailhead via the Sverrestig ("sword path"), a lovely trail meandering through quiet woodlands.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300691@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Sverrestig is part of the old main road between eastern and western Norway, and it's at least 1,000 years old.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300692@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Continue by vehicle to Sogndal and settle in for an overnight stay and dinner on your own.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300693@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Your choices of activities were excellent.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300694@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In talking to other Norway visitors, our group seemed to be seeing more of the country and having a greater variety of experiences.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300695@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Overnight in Fjærland@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300696@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Breakfast & dinner included@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300697@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Travel by vehicle to Fjærland where you'll spend the next two nights.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300698@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For a moderate hiking option, follow the trail leading into the green and quiet Mundalsdalen.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300699@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At the head of the valley, a large glacial cirque whose walls wear a waterfall filigree awaits you!@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300700@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Wild huckleberries and raspberries grow in profusion along the trail to Mundalsdalen and the open floor of the cirque invites wandering.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300701@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Alternatively, experienced mountain walkers can undertake a challenging hike following the trace of an old route across the mountains to Fjaerland.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300702@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The route starts at Anestølen, an operating goat farm in a high mountain valley.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300703@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The term støl refers to a summer farm where herds graze and milking and cheese-making is done.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300704@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From Anestølen, hike across the surrounding stream-laced meadows and begin a gentle ascent along the Langedal stream bordered by grassy meadows punctuated with twisted birches, willow thickets, and huckleberry patches.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300705@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After a brisk climb alongside a rushing cascade, the trail enters the Haugbotn, a large glacially-carved cirque carpeted with ferns, boulders and meadows where tufts of cotton grass sway in the mountain breezes.@@@@1@33@@danf@24-8-2004 3300706@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Waterfalls cascade down the walls of the Haugbotn from snowfields high above.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300707@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The route ascends to the high pass at Sogndalseggi and skirts an ice-filled lake before descending through wild, lonely mountain basins into the Fjærland Valley.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300708@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After dinner in Fjærland, you might choose to take an evening walk on your own to enjoy a serene fjordscape of glacier-clad mountains rising from the sea.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300709@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Overnight in Fjærland@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300710@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Breakfast & dinner included@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300711@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Continue your exploration of the countryside and mountains surrounding Fjærland.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300712@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Fjærland's wealth of trails leads you through an "open air laboratory" of glacially-sculpted landforms.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300713@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If you desire, pay a visit to the Norwegian Glacier Museum (Norsk Bremuseum) which interprets the glaciers of western Norway (cost of admission not included in trip price).@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300714@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The museum's exhibits are a great way to gain a deeper appreciation for the power of moving ice.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300715@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A moderately challenging walk leads to the astounding viewpoint atop Nesehaugen where fjord panoramas await!@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300716@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Or you could choose a vigorous hike to the Flatbre hut in the Jostedalsbre National Park (Jostedalsbreen Nasjonalpark)---3,000 feet above Fjærland---from where you'll enjoy bird's eye views over the Fjærlandsfjord.@@@@1@30@@danf@24-8-2004 3300717@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Enjoy "front row" vistas of the deeply crevassed Flatbre (glacier) as it descends from the main Jostedal ice cap and plunges over a cliff edge in the magnificent Supphellebre ice fall.@@@@1@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3300718@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Overnight in Bergen@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300719@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Breakfast & dinner included@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300720@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Depart Fjærland to return to Bergen.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300721@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Upon arrival in Bergen check into your hotel before enjoying a funicular ride to the top of Fløien mountain for magnificent views over the city.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300722@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A network of forest paths descend the slopes of Fløien to bring you back to your hotel via the old quarter of Bergen.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300723@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The trip ends with a farewell dinner in Bergen.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300724@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Your lodging tonight and breakfast tomorrow morning are included.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300725@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Other Details about this Trip@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300726@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The mountains of the Western Norwegian Fjords are "sea-level" mountains rising sharply from the waters of the fjords.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300727@unknown@formal@none@1@S@"Alpine tundra" environments are encountered at an elevation of about 3,000 feet above sea level.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300728@unknown@formal@none@1@S@No hike on this trip exceeds an elevation of 4,500 above sea level.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300729@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The trail system in Norway is, in general, less developed than in other parts of Europe (such as the Alps), and many mountain trails are wild and rugged.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300730@unknown@formal@none@1@@Coming into approach at Bodø I was amazed at the scenery below, the Svartisen icecap - the third largest in Norway was clearly in view.@@@@0@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300731@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In fact the visibility was amazing - absolutely no haze with the haze layer below the summits.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300732@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Having done a virtual tour here before, I could recognise the mountains I saw.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300733@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I landed in Bodø on schedule at 14.30 and so my main task switched to buying bread, cheese and gas before boarding my 15.15 bus for the last bit to get to the start of my walk.@@@@1@37@@danf@24-8-2004 3300734@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I was amazed I caught it - sweat dripping off my forehead - had one minute to go.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300735@unknown@formal@none@1@S@My first mountain to climb was a summit on the Børvasstindene group of hills - dominating the view from Bodø.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300736@unknown@formal@none@1@@On our way the bus passed over a bridge at Saltstraumen, looking down at the water I noticed lots of turbulent whirlpools and a strong current.@@@@0@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300737@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Later I discovered that it was home to the world's strongest maelstrom!@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300738@unknown@formal@none@1@S@So it was at 4.30pm that I was dropped off at the road junction leading to the tiny hamlet of Børelva.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300739@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Off I walked along the track to the lake of Børvatnet where I striked off the path to head up the lower slopes of Børtinden.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300740@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The weather was cool with a brisk breeze and solid sunshine.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300741@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I couldn't have asked for a better start as I walked up the superb rock slabs to my first campsite at the lake of nedre-Tindvatnet.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300742@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I was now going to head south past Örfjellet to another cluster of mountains.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300743@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The skies were clear and I was confident about climbing a couple of summits today so off I went heading off track into the wide basin beneath Örfjellet.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300744@unknown@formal@none@1@@It was a wintry valley, the lower lake was partially covered with ice floes whilst the upper lake near the saddle was completely covered.@@@@0@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300745@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Now my original plan was to climb Örfjellet from here but it appeared very steep - an easier route involved a long diversion back north again.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300746@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I reached the summit.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300747@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There was a concrete foundation so obviously there was a building here once.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300748@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I'd be interested to know what was here.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300749@unknown@formal@none@1@@At last I could see my final destination, the airport was clearly in view.@@@@0@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300750@unknown@formal@none@1@@The mountain itself was nice, the westward ridge was supported by a vertical cliff - I'm sure it overhang slightly.@@@@0@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300751@unknown@formal@none@1@S@And so I descended to my campsite but it had a clear northward view and so I wasn't going to get much sleep.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300752@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It was the end of another hot sunny day!@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300753@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Jotunheimen is the highest mountain area of Norway.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300754@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The name "Jotunheimen" means "home of the giants".@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300755@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Summits over 2.400 metres can be found here, together with many glaciers and large lakes.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300756@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Geologically, the area consists mainly of hard gabbro rocks, and the shape of the valleys betrays the impact of the ice in times passed.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300757@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The area is unspoiled and, compared to the Alps, still quiet and wild imho.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300758@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Nevertheless, it is the most popular hiking area in Norway, both for the Norwegians themselves as for foreigners.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300759@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Second in popularity is Rondane, an area more to the East.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300760@unknown@formal@none@1@S@And third is Hardangervidda, a large, empty plateau South of Jotunheimen.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300761@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Norwegians, who like hiking, skiing and fishing, have a unique system of huts, run by many local organisations.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300762@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The umbrella organisation for all of them is the DNT, Den Norske Turistforening.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300763@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You don't need to carry a tent or food for a week.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300764@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It is possible to walk from hut to hut.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300765@unknown@formal@none@1@S@(The reason I took a tent with me, was that I prefer camping in the open mountains.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300766@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Camping is allowed in the national parks.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300767@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Well, this country is vast!@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300768@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A few tents are completely lost in the landscape.)@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300769@unknown@formal@none@1@S@But now the huts: they come in three varieties: full-service huts, where food is served; self-service huts where no personnel is running about, where you can buy food and have to cook it yourself in the kitchen; and no-service huts, having a stove and beds with blankets like the self-service huts but where you cannot buy food.@@@@1@57@@danf@24-8-2004 3300770@unknown@formal@none@1@@The food in the self-service huts consists of tins, rice, knäckebrød, many types of dried stuff, coffee, chocolate etc. etc.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300771@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Skip.@@@@0@1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300772@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You have to pay for it - beware! it's expensive - by putting the money in a little paper bag and depositing it in a safe.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300773@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You also need a DNT key to enter the self- and no-service huts.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300774@unknown@formal@none@1@S@However, in the tourist season most huts will be open, I guess.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300775@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Now the prices: you must count on at least 30 euro's for a night in a self-service hut and 50 euro's in a full-service hut.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3300776@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This is including food.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300777@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Of course, if you drink wine or beer, the price rockets up.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300778@unknown@formal@none@1@S@These prices are for members.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300779@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If you are not a DNT member, you pay more.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300780@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Membership costs 45 euro's a year.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300781@unknown@formal@none@1@@You can pay with your visa card in the huts, also in the self-service huts.@@@@0@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300782@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The snow was quite alright this time.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300783@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The descent was actually more enjoyable because of the snow, and deep below was one of those large, dark, pure lakes: Russvatnet, stretching in the form of a banana between steep slopes the ice once cut out of the hard rock.@@@@1@41@@danf@24-8-2004 3300784@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It's about twelve kilometres long.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300785@unknown@formal@none@1@S@One more bridge - a hanging one this time above a river that rumbled like a washing machine - and I touched the shore of the lake.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300786@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Further in the south I pitched my tent on a pleasant flat piece of land.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300787@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Only the waterfall on the background roared like a jet engine; it's never quiet in these mountains!@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300788@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The path from Memurubu to Gjendebu is a "ridge" walk.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300789@unknown@formal@none@1@@After a rather exposed climb with views into the lake and the Memuru valley, the path continuous on a kind of plateau, with lots of lakes on different levels and other landscape elements left by the ice.@@@@0@37@@danf@24-8-2004 3300790@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It's nice to roam about in this cluttered collection of stones, hills, lakes, streams.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300791@unknown@formal@none@1@@Then you have a choice: descend to the lake Gjende or continue to Storådalen and walk back to the lake Gjende.@@@@0@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300792@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Most people take the steep descent.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300793@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The most exposed places are secured with chains.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300794@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After 500 metres steep descent, I walked through the open forest enjoying the many flowers and green scents.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300795@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It was raining a bit.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300796@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I passed a very calm lake, then a very large frozen lake (Langvatnet) with muddy shores.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300797@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Now I had to turn South sharply, into another short valley that took me up to a pass.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300798@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It happened four people passed me from the other side so I could follow their steps in the snow and did not have to think much or look at the map a lot.@@@@1@33@@danf@24-8-2004 3300799@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It rained by now.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300800@unknown@formal@none@1@S@On the other side of the pass descending was an easy job in the snow and soon I saw the roofs of Olavsbu, a DNT self-service hut.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300801@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Only the uppermost building was open.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300802@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There was no one.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300803@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I lit the fire, put on some dry clothes and made lots of coffee and tea while comfortably watching mist and rain drifting along the windows.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300804@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Two people came in later that afternoon.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300805@unknown@formal@none@1@S@An hour later again a couple arrived.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300806@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The first couple left to find a camping place lower in the valley.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300807@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For more than an hour, we saw them looking for a place to pass the river, which was rather silly because there was a bridge just under the hut.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3300808@unknown@formal@none@1@S@And we pitied them, because the girl apparently didn't want to camp at all in this weather.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300809@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The sky was still clouded when I woke up, but cracks of blue shined through.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300810@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I continued up into the valley.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300811@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At the valley bottom, I scrambled up a rocky outcrop and reached a kind of narrow pass with a frozen lake, mainly stones.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300812@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This time there was no running water, and therefore it was a silent place, nice to sit and warm myself in the sun.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300813@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I had to go over a second pass and entered a complex area of lakes, hills, rivers, moraines.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300814@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The clouds dissolved.@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300815@unknown@formal@none@1@@The mountain tops stood out sharply against the blue sky and mirrored in the blue waters of the lakes.@@@@0@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300816@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Because of the snow, I progressed slowly, but still I regard this walk as one of the finest, because the landscape was changing all the time.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300817@unknown@formal@none@1@@In the end, I caught sight of lake Bygdin (a natural lake, but now used as a reservoir for a hydro-electricity) and a lot of little cabins.@@@@0@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3300818@unknown@formal@none@1@@The large, red fjell hotel contrasted against the dark water of the lake.@@@@0@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300819@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I took the famous path over the Bessegen ridge.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300820@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I was not the only one doing this: some 50 people disembarked from the boat coming from Gjendesheim, and they all walked back to the hut they came from.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3300821@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This path is said to be the most popular walk in Norway.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300822@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The path climbed a few hundred metres.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300823@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Here the path forked, the left branch going to lake Russvatnet - here I was the third day of my trip, and the right branch going to Besseggen.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300824@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For an hour or so, I had pretty views on the lake below.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300825@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The funny part was the place where lake Bessvatnet and lake Gjende almost meet.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300826@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The first lake is about 400 metres higher than the last one.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300827@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The ridge in between is rather small, some 80 metres, and then there is a straight drop down to lake Gjende.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300828@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Nice place to picnic, and so all the other 50 walkers thought.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300829@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The path continued up the Besseggen ridge, a rather steep ridge, with stunning views over Jutunheimen and straight down into Gjende.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300830@unknown@formal@none@1@@It's not dangerous, you cannot fall off.@@@@0@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300831@unknown@formal@none@1@@The ridge is associated with Per Gynt: "the dramatist Henrik Ibsen immortalised Besseggen when he described Per Gynt's wild ride on the reindeer across the ridge.@@@@0@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300832@unknown@formal@none@1@@Not even the fall - or should we call it flight - into Gjende did any harm to Ibsen's mendacious hero, and none of the thousands hikers who have made the Besseggen tour has ever repeated Per Gynt's fall" (from: Mountain Touring Holidays in Norway, Nortrabooks, Oslo 1974).@@@@0@48@@danf@24-8-2004 3300833@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The ridge ended, and a very gentle slope led to the summit of Veslefjellet, a stone plateau 1743 m high.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300834@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Here was the place and the moment to say goodbye to Jotunheimen - the mountains, glaciers and snow disappeared in the West.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300835@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In the East was Gausdal Vestfjell, an area with rounded mounds and (at this time of the year) not much snow.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3300836@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The descent to Gjendesheim was rather steep and slippery.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300837@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Down at the lake was a parking place next to the ferry pier.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300838@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The national park surrounds Jostedalsbreen - the largest glacier on the continent of Europe.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300839@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This is a big plateau glacier with many glacial outcroppings.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300840@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In the national park there are also many smaller separate glaciers.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300841@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Glaciers and water have shaped the landscape with many moraines and other geologically interesting phenomena.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300842@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Fåbergstøls-grandane is the largest active outwash plain in Norway.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300843@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The landscape around Jostedalsbreen is characterized by large contrasts.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300844@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Within short distances you find a spectacular scenic variety, from fjords and luxuriant u-shaped valleys with farms and traditional agricultural landscape to barren mountains and glaciers with peaks rising to 2000 m.@@@@1@32@@danf@24-8-2004 3300845@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Gushing streams, rivers and waterfalls cascading down steep mountain sides or deep down in the valleys are the hallmarks of the area, especially the Stryn and Loen river systems.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3300846@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Jostedalsbreen constitutes one of the largest wilderness areas in southern Norway.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300847@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Some of the valley glaciers are among the most frequently visited tourist attractions in Norway.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300848@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Nigardsbreen Nature Reserve borders on the national park.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300849@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In the past, tracks and drove roads crossed the great Jostedal ice sheet, linking the western valleys with the inland districts of Sogn and south-east Norway.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3300850@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Cattle and horses were driven across the glacier to be sold in the markets in the east.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300851@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This would be difficult today as the ice sheet has shrunk and is therefore steeper and has more crevasses.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300852@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Jostedalsbreen has long been regarded as an attractive area for walkers and hikers.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300853@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Skiing the length of the glacier has become popular in recent years.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300854@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Without specialist knowledge and proper equipment, however, walking or skiing on the glacier is highly dangerous.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300855@unknown@formal@none@1@@The old routes in the valleys around the glacier, such as Oldeskardet, offer exciting walking tours.@@@@0@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300856@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Some of the valley glaciers like Briksdalsbreen, Bøyabreen and Nigardsbreen are among the most frequently visited tourist attractions in Norway.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300857@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Jostedalsbreen National Park covers parts of the following municipalities: Luster, Sogndal, Balestrand, Førde, Jølster, Gloppen and Stryn.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300858@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You may...@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3300859@unknown@formal@none@1@S@walk and camp anywhere in the national park@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300860@unknown@formal@none@1@S@pick berries, fungi and flowers for your own pleasure@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300861@unknown@formal@none@1@S@hunt and fish in licensed areas@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300862@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You must never...@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300863@unknown@formal@none@1@S@use motorised land or water transport@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300864@unknown@formal@none@1@S@fly aircraft below 300 m or land in the national park@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300865@unknown@formal@none@1@S@quarry for stone, minerals or fossils@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300866@unknown@formal@none@1@S@damage wild plants or disturb wild animals@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300867@unknown@formal@none@1@S@leave rubbish within the national park.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300868@unknown@formal@none@1@@Easy, cosy and safe blue ice walk suitable for all from six years and older.@@@@0@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300869@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After crossing the lake (10 min.) follow the track up to the left side of the glacier (30 min).@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300870@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You must meet half an hour before the hike starts.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300871@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This walk is not tiring but takes you through more difficult blue ice formations.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300872@unknown@formal@none@1@S@During the hike, you will experience the most spectacular sceneries at the lower part of the Nigard Glacier.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300873@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For those who prefer a more severe glacier walk.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300874@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In minor groups of max. 6 people, we walk and climb more difficult parts of the glacier as well as top roping on ice.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3300875@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We explore the colours, formations and ice pinnacles on the crevassed Nigard Glacier.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300876@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Sunday morning 10.30 a.m.: 4 heavily loaded people leave from Finse Hut.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300877@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We walk against the clock around the glacier, in the direction of Rembesdalseter, an unserviced hut at about 7 (Norwegian!) hours from Finse.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300878@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At first we walk over the Rallarvegen, a cycle route from Haugastølen to famous Flåm.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300879@unknown@formal@none@1@S@With compassion the bikers look at our heavy backpacks.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300880@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Then a small path leads us away from this bustle and soon the last small huts disappear from view.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300881@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At the end of the lake we have our first break: we can still see Rallarvegen and the railway line.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3300882@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A first day is always hard.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300883@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You have to get used to the stones, the hanging bridges, the climbing and the snowfields.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300884@unknown@formal@none@1@S@But the first panorama makes it worth while.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300885@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For miles we can see around us: snowcapped black mountains and two clear green lakes lie before us.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300886@unknown@formal@none@1@@Soon we split up in two groups, Ron and Nandy eagerly lead the way and we follow somewhat behind.@@@@0@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300887@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The sun winks down at us.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300888@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At the end of the afternoon, we are near the green lakes we saw before.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300889@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We desert the path and descend to the first lake.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300890@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A glacier tongue flows into it and we see some ice floes!@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300891@unknown@formal@none@1@S@With a bit of scrambling you can get to the cold water.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300892@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We quickly put up the tents in the lee of a small hillside and cook for the first time in the open.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300893@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The setting sun fills the landscape with a soft glowing light.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300894@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We get in one of our North Face domes, play some games and finally dive into the sleeping bags.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300895@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Good night.@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3300896@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At dawn we scramble up the hillside again and walk through a moonlike landscape: black earth dotted with white rocks agains a scenery of bald snowy mountain tops.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3300897@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At the second lake we pass a tent and the people wave at us.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300898@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At the end of that lake we come to a suspension bridge.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300899@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In spring the rivers carry a lot of ice chunks and extra water from the melting winter snow.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300900@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Therefore the bridges are built extra high, so they will not wash away.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300901@unknown@formal@none@1@S@But to get on the first step, that's a challenge for me (height 1.63 m).@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300902@unknown@formal@none@1@S@But if Wim pushes and I pull myself up, I usually succeed.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300903@unknown@formal@none@1@S@During a break Nandy tries to sleigh ride on a snowfield, but it is not steep enough.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300904@unknown@formal@none@1@S@She is disappointed: she was very much looking forward to this!@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300905@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Suddenly, far below us, we see a piece of a dam: we know from the map that Rembesdalsseter lies next to it.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300906@unknown@formal@none@1@@We quickly begin the descend: first over steep rock, then over a goat path through low growth of willow, with lots of stones.@@@@0@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3300907@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The bush is tugging at our trousers and shoelaces.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300908@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Ron and Nandy become dots in the distance.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300909@unknown@formal@none@1@@Finally we get also down: legs trembling from the strenuous descend.@@@@0@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300910@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We enjoy the warm sun sitting near a small pool.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300911@unknown@formal@none@1@@The hut is a little bit further down; nobody is there.@@@@0@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300912@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A few years ago the lake was made into a dam because it flooded several times with dramatic consequences.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300913@unknown@formal@none@1@@In 1963 suddenly the lake flooded and a some villages were washed away!@@@@0@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300914@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The path meanders up and down on the steep shore through, again, low growth with large boulders, even larger boulders and then we have to scramble up and down over rock formations.@@@@1@32@@danf@24-8-2004 3300915@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Hey, this is no hiking, this is sports climbing!@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300916@unknown@formal@none@1@S@As soon as we see a flat piece of rock, we seize the opportunity: hooray for the geodesic domes (no pegs needed)!@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3300917@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Every evening we hold a taste contest: we write down which meal from Adventure Food (Birdland) is the best.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3300918@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Apart from these meals, I composed meals at home from dried ingredients.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300919@unknown@formal@none@1@S@They are twice as heavy!@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300920@unknown@formal@none@1@S@And that's not so bad, if only they were twice as good.....@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300921@unknown@formal@none@1@S@That evening the sun sets in beautiful orange-pink colours against a deep blue sky with smoky grey clouds.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300922@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The mountains behind us are nephews of Ayers Rock: they are a smashing orange colour!@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300923@unknown@formal@none@1@S@As a photo freak, this wonderful evening is a small gift to me.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300924@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Weather forecast: cloudy with a cold wind blowing: wear jackets!@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300925@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We cross a suspension bridge over a roaring river: it flows from the glacier to the dam.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300926@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Then the climb: more than 300 meters over big boulders and loose rock straight up.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300927@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The only consolation is that it's our third day: as true Norwegian mountain goats we clamber up.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300928@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Well okay, as elderly Norwegian mountain goats.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300929@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At the top Ron and Nandy have grown numb from waiting for us in the cold wind.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3300930@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Time for lunch.@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300931@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There is no view: the clouds hang just over our heads.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300932@unknown@formal@none@1@S@According to the map, the path is going down from here.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300933@unknown@formal@none@1@S@With fresh courage we go on.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300934@unknown@formal@none@1@@The clouds get thinner, dissolve and suddenly the sun is shining.@@@@0@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300935@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Finally we stand at the edge of a sheer cliff.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300936@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Far below a river meanders between folded mountains to a distant turquoise fjord.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300937@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The colours are magnificent: anthracite cliffs, deep green woods, and the road a white ribbon.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300938@unknown@formal@none@1@S@What a reward!@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3300939@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Our path leads us right alongside the edge and then steeply dips down to a lake.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300940@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Our legs begin to hurt.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300941@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In the remote distance, Ron and Nandy happily frolic about.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300942@unknown@formal@none@1@S@When we get down, we get no rest: a final climb of 250 meters awaits us.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300943@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The 'path' consists of huge steps: chunks of earth, grass and rocks.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300944@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It is like a giant staircase.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300945@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Halfway up I'm dead.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300946@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Wim sees me getting paler and paler with the effort.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300947@unknown@formal@none@1@@He suggests to drop the backpack, he will get back for it later.@@@@0@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300948@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Thankfully I get my fleece, jacket and water bottle.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300949@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Then Ron descends to us.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300950@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Looking down from the top he saw me drop the backpack and understood the situation immediately.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300951@unknown@formal@none@1@S@He takes my backpack and the three of us climb on.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300952@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Nandy waited near their backpacks and quickly froze in the rough wind.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300953@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We give her a warm cap and gloves and look for a camp spot.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300954@unknown@formal@none@1@S@All of us are pretty exhausted.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300955@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There is no shelter and the wind howls around us.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300956@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We put up the tents right next to each other with the backs to the wind.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300957@unknown@formal@none@1@S@To thank Ron for getting my backpack I make freeze dried yogurt with hot spicy applesauce.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300958@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Delicious!@@@@1@1@@danf@24-8-2004 3300959@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Early morning 06.30 a.m.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300960@unknown@formal@none@1@S@strong winds and bitter cold.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300961@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I defy the elements and take some pictures, but then succumb and seek the shelter of the tent.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300962@unknown@formal@none@1@S@When we break up the tents we go completely numb.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300963@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Wim says the wind is force 7 at the moment.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300964@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Combined with the tent temperature, 5 degrees Celsius, that makes it feel like minus 10 to 15 degrees!@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300965@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Silently, thickly wrapped, we start walking.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300966@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Rocks are replaced by mosses and low bush.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3300967@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We then descend a green slope, the wind falls and the sun shines again.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300968@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We slosh over a boggy meadow and descend further down coloring birches to Fossli Hotel....@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3300969@unknown@formal@none@1@S@that unfortunately is closed.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300970@unknown@formal@none@1@S@But some fifteen minutes further down the road (yes, a concrete road again!) is Liset Pensionat.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300971@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We treat ourselves to salmon, shrimps, crab with omelette and hot bread rolls.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300972@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A Norwegian food feast.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3300973@unknown@formal@none@1@@We also resupply on chocolate bars, nuts, candy and coke.@@@@0@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300974@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Relishing the memory we walk at the foot of the mountains past the last wooden houses.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300975@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Are we getting used to the climbing?@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300976@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It seems to go easier than before.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3300977@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Once on top we can see a section of the route of this morning.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300978@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Now the landscape looks like the Hardangervidda: round hill with lots of small pools.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300979@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Grand but a bit boring.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3300980@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We almost get lost, but notice it just in time.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300981@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Again we put up the tents near a pool and, yes, in the wind.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300982@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This is still Norway, you know!@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300983@unknown@formal@none@1@@The route runs to the East, the wind blows from the West.@@@@0@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300984@unknown@formal@none@1@@We see that it get's colder: the small vegetation now colors to a beautiful dark red.@@@@0@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3300985@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Suddenly we look down from a hilltop into a valley.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300986@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A big blue river flows from the North to a big lake.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300987@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The route splits itself here: it's South to Kjeldebu and North to Finse.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3300988@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We head North and even find a spot to lunch out of the wind and in the sun!@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3300989@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Satisfied again we follow the river.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300990@unknown@formal@none@1@@The red vegetation disappears, the ground becomes boggy and muddy.@@@@0@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3300991@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Wim tries to find dry passages.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300992@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Because of my impatience I dip my whole boot down in the watery mud.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300993@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Then the rocks come back again.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3300994@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Today we also wanted to do the climb at the end of this valley.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3300995@unknown@formal@none@1@S@But we decide against it at our last break: no climb today.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3300996@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A bit further on we meet two young Norwegians.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300997@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Although it is already 4.30 p.m. they are heading for Kjeldebu.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3300998@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We listen in disbelief: that took us 4 hours!@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3300999@unknown@formal@none@1@S@But because they sleep in the huts, they have far less weight to carry and of course, they practically walk these mountains from the day they are born!@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3301000@unknown@formal@none@1@S@They haven't seen any good campsites further on and advise us to camp here, next to the path.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3301001@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We gladly comply.@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3301002@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Warmed up by a fierce scramble we walk along a small lake.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301003@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At the next snowfield Ron and Nandy bombard each other with snow balls.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301004@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Any vegetation is now long gone, just cobbles, boulders and rock.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301005@unknown@formal@none@1@S@My body is tired with 6 days of continuous effort.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3301006@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We climb and descend and then there comes another climb again.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301007@unknown@formal@none@1@S@And climbing is definitely not my favorite exercise!@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301008@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Then we come to a large snowslope with a gradient of some 40 degrees.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301009@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The track over it is luckily pretty mushy and offers enough grip.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301010@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You don't want to slip here!@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301011@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Carefully we walk on.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3301012@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After a while we scramble back upon the rocks.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301013@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A beautiful mountain vista lies before us.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3301014@unknown@formal@none@1@S@That cheers me up again.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3301015@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A little while later we meet two elderly Norwegians who think we are Norwegian too.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301016@unknown@formal@none@1@@We talk a bit before saying warmly goodbye.@@@@0@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301017@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Our last lunchbreak: we exchange the last bits of shrimp cheese spread.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301018@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Some time further we can already see the hut in the far distance.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301019@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It's an optical illusion because it takes at least another 2 hours before we get there!@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301020@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We can no longer hold Ron and Nandy back and they 'race' ahead.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301021@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Wim's knees hurt again pretty bad, so we take it slow and immediately take a wrong turn.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301022@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We have to walk back again and I'm in a foul mood for a while.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301023@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We cross a large boggy area.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301024@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Behind it the landscape becomes quite hilly.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3301025@unknown@formal@none@1@@We lose our sense of time and direction.@@@@0@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301026@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Still unexpected we stand at the lake.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3301027@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At the other side Finse Hut is waiting for us.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3301028@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We have to walk a concrete barrage and round the lake.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301029@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Our pace comes a totter.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3301030@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Then at last we stagger into the hut at 5 p.m.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301031@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In the cold hallway Ron and Nandy faithfully have waited for us.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301032@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The four of us get a double room with discount, take a long long shower and then enjoy a true Norwegian dinner: Norwegian meatballs, elk meat with cranberries, Norwegian sauerkraut (it's quite sweet) and potatoes.@@@@1@35@@danf@24-8-2004 3301033@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Liv er god: life is good.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301034@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Norway is rugged and very beautiful.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301035@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We were there from August 1-12.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301036@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The weather was surprisingly very nice the whole time, so that we hiked in tee shirts and the only day we needed any of the GoreTex and fleece clothes we brought was when we went up on the glacier.@@@@1@39@@danf@24-8-2004 3301037@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The country is about the size of California with less than the population of Massachusetts, and we spent most of the time in the more remote parts.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3301038@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The primary sounds were of the abundant and powerful waterfalls and streams (all of Norway's electricity is generated by waterpower) and the crunch of our boots on rock.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3301039@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We went about 11 or 12 miles each day that we hiked - and each day we had very different terrain and experiences.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3301040@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Our guide was Torger Møller-Foss, of Hallingdal Mountaineering, a Norwegian who can trace his family back 500 years and who earns his living as a farmer, a timber man, a game warden, and a mountaineering guide.@@@@1@36@@danf@24-8-2004 3301041@unknown@formal@none@1@@The first hiking day we headed for Finse, accessible by train, bike or on foot.@@@@0@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301042@unknown@formal@none@1@S@No cars unless you have a special permit.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301043@unknown@formal@none@1@S@To get there we hiked 11 miles of lichen covered rocky areas with gushing streams and lakes of greenish glacier water.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3301044@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Although the weather was warm and sunny and we hiked in tee shirts, there were patches of snow in the low places.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301045@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The landscape was stark and gorgeous.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301046@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We crossed a swaying cable bridge suspended over turbulent snowmelt to a spot for lunch.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301047@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The hike terminated at Finse 1222, our hotel (which is 1,222 meters - 4,009 feet - above sea level), that overlooks a rockbound lake and on the other side, the foot of the glacier we would experience the next day.@@@@1@40@@danf@24-8-2004 3301048@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The town of Finse consists of a train station and a small cluster of buildings surrounded by pristine rocky slopes extending to the horizon in all directions and the glacier.@@@@1@30@@danf@24-8-2004 3301049@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Hardangerjokulen is 3,000 years old.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301050@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Each winter 30 feet of new snow falls on the glacier and Finse.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301051@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Amundsen, Nansen and other explorers came here to test their arctic gear.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301052@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After dinner and our briefing I sat at one of the hotel windows overlooking the glacier.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301053@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The days are very long in August there and even at 10:30 p.m.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301054@unknown@formal@none@1@S@there was enough light to see and draw the glacier by.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301055@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By twilight it seemed all the more mysterious and impressive.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3301056@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The next morning we spent 2 hours hiking past the lake across the rock approaching the glacier.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301057@unknown@formal@none@1@S@When we stopped at the base we changed into dry shirts (sweaty clothes are to be avoided up there), had lunch and then put on crampons and harnesses.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3301058@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We wore the harnesses on our upper bodies.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301059@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There was another group nearby putting on helmets and wearing their harnesses pelvic-style.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301060@unknown@formal@none@1@S@They would be rappelling down into crevasses.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3301061@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Not us, though.@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3301062@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This was our first experience with a glacier.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301063@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Torger roped us together, about twenty feet apart.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301064@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We were to proceed in a single line not letting the rope touch ground, since should anyone fall into a crevasse the less slack there was the faster we could brace to stop their fall.@@@@1@35@@danf@24-8-2004 3301065@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We went up with Torger in the lead probing with his ice ax for crevasses hidden under the snow.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301066@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Since the weather had been unusually warm there was running water in places, pouring down into potholes three or four feet across and which fell the entire depth of the glacier.@@@@0@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3301067@unknown@formal@none@1@S@These were holes to look, but not fall, into.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301068@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The other primary hazard is of course the crevasses, some of which are very obvious, whereas others are camouflaged by snow.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3301069@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The ice of the crevasses really is blue as is written.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301070@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The surface of the glacier was irregular and grainy or slushy in some places, hard in others.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301071@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Crampons were certainly needed.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3301072@unknown@formal@none@1@S@As we trudged, small dark spots littered the ice here and there - tiny clumps of decomposing fur and bone that used to be lemmings.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3301073@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A few years back the remains of a German soldier who died on the glacier during WWII was extruded out the side by the compression of the ice.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3301074@unknown@formal@none@1@S@On the way down we passed a monument to others who died up there.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301075@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At one point when we were stationary while Torger probed for solid footing I saw far in the distance an opening near the base of a rocky promontory.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3301076@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There appeared to be three people standing still, spaced evenly apart.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301077@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In spite of my sunglasses they were so far off that I couldn't be sure and when fifteen or twenty minutes later they still seemed to be standing in exactly the same spot, I decided the verticals I saw must have been posts or something, not people.@@@@1@47@@danf@24-8-2004 3301078@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Later, through binoculars, I saw that they were indeed people, roped together as we were, standing still because they were braced to hold whoever was on the end of the rope that extended down into the crevasse.@@@@0@37@@danf@24-8-2004 3301079@unknown@formal@none@1@S@These were perhaps members of the other group we had seen earlier.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301080@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We crossed the arm of the glacier nearest Finse, then had one of our lunches.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301081@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Ahead our way down was over rock and snow, so we removed the crampons.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301082@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It took another hour and a half or two hours to come down.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301083@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We encountered a snowfield that looked very much like a ski slope at Sunday River.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301084@unknown@formal@none@1@@Some of us ran down, some bum-sledded.@@@@0@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3301085@unknown@formal@none@1@S@When we stopped to rest we were entertained by a mother ptarmigan and her six chicks.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301086@unknown@formal@none@1@S@That partly made up for Torger's disappointment that we hadn't seen reindeer up on the glacier.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301087@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Apparently because the other group had gone up just before us, the reindeer had moved off.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301088@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For those who go further in there supposedly may occasionally be polar bears.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301089@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The next day we took the train to Myrdal and hiked down the Flåm valley, which was spectacular.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3301090@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It is hard to believe that cyclists survive the steep switchbacks we walked on, but they do.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301091@unknown@formal@none@1@@The way begins high up and winds down into a lush valley sprinkled liberally with gushing threads of water cascading down from the snowfields at the top and making rainbows in the sun.@@@@0@33@@danf@24-8-2004 3301092@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There were birches, aspens and evergreens and beautiful fireweed and harebell-like flowers.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301093@unknown@formal@none@1@S@All of the falling water converged at the bottom into a powerfully rushing river that churned the entire length of the valley on its way to the fjord at Flåm, our destination.@@@@1@32@@danf@24-8-2004 3301094@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There is one small farm - the only visible structure other than one footbridge - and that is where we stopped for lunch.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3301095@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Torger left us and went on ahead to take care of some things and we proceeded on our own.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301096@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The path at times was nearly invisible among the flowers and grasses, but the river was our rambunctious guide.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301097@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We passed an avalanche site where a stream had cut a huge arch in the snow.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301098@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The water is certainly the dominant aspect of each landscape we traversed.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301099@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This valley was spectacular.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3301100@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After a good meal and a solid night's sleep Torger showed us the way to a Viking farm high on the hillside overlooking the fjord.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3301101@unknown@formal@none@1@S@He told us stories of the Viking family who had once lived there.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301102@unknown@formal@none@1@S@His Norwegian perspective added a great deal to what was already a great trip.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301103@unknown@formal@none@1@S@What an asset to have a local guide, especially someone as good as Torger.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301104@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We then descended and boarded the ferry to see the two arms of the fjord near where we stayed.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301105@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The two arms join in a Y formation to become Sognefjord which is more than 200 kms long - the longest in the world.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3301106@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The mountains lining the entire waterway on both sides plunge from great heights, sometimes nearly 6,000 feet, directly down into the deep, still water.@@@@1@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3301107@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It is pretty incredible.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3301108@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The next day we hiked the Aurland Valley - uphill all day.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301109@unknown@formal@none@1@S@After an hour or so of rugged terrain, during which time we didn't see another soul, we came to the "Good Wives' Avalanche".@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3301110@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It seems that the few farms up further in the valley had used this same path to get down to the road.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301111@unknown@formal@none@1@S@When the children accompanied by one of the mothers would come downhill to this point, which they incredibly did in the dark, at this point the sun would be high enough that there was light for the children to proceed the remaining hour on their own.@@@@1@46@@danf@24-8-2004 3301112@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A half hour or so further up along the trail we came to a small log farmhouse that had been built under the protective overhang of an enormous boulder.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3301113@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Rockslides and avalanches are commonplace hazards in this valley.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301114@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Torger also pointed out the tiny summer farmhouse of this same family, a speck high on the precarious hillside.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301115@unknown@formal@none@1@S@When once the farmer while walking his horse up to that site had left too much slack in the reins, he tripped on the reins and fell to his death far below.@@@@1@32@@danf@24-8-2004 3301116@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We then took the bus to a ski resort where we had individual cabins and the main building had a heated indoor pool.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3301117@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The next morning it looked as though it might rain and we could see that Torger was worried about his hay.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3301118@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We had a quick conference and decided to experience Norwegian farm chores first hand.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301119@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We all went to his farm.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301120@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We saw two distinguishing features there.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301121@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The first was the traditional Hallingdal style log building he had.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301122@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The lower floor is narrower, with the upper story having an overhang, and bearing carved columns.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301123@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The roof members are topped by a layer of birch bark, then a layer of sod which grows into grasses and flowers and even sapling trees (the trees have to be removed).@@@@1@32@@danf@24-8-2004 3301124@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This living roof provides insulation from summer heat and winter cold.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301125@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The other feature is the way the hay is put out to dry.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301126@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Saplings are cut into lengths with one end sharpened, and are driven into the ground at perhaps thirty foot intervals.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301127@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Strands of wire are strung the full length of the "fence", perhaps three of them, one above the other.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301128@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Then the hay is draped over this.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3301129@unknown@formal@none@1@S@So, we took down the hay and raked and pitchforked it onto his tractor, getting it all into his barn in about 2 hours (we had blisters as trophies).@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3301130@unknown@formal@none@1@@He gave us a tour of his beautiful house, we had lunch, then hiked for the rest of the afternoon through woods where there are elk, cattle and moose and then over miles of open country of a particular character.@@@@0@40@@danf@24-8-2004 3301131@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It looked like my idea of what a moor must be ("Wuthering Heights", "Hound of the Baskervilles", etc.) so I took the opportunity to ask Lynne.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3301132@unknown@formal@none@1@S@She informed me that it was heath.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3301133@unknown@formal@none@1@@She said that moor is mostly grassland, while heath has also scrub brush.@@@@0@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301134@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Later, part of the group went on ahead.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301135@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It was a wonderful experience to come over a ridge and see, so far off in the distance, tiny specks that you squint to recognize as part of your group.@@@@1@30@@danf@24-8-2004 3301136@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In New England there aren't too many places other than at the ocean where there is such an unobstructed view.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301137@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The mountain range Jotunheimen is located ~350 km north of Oslo, Norway.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301138@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The summits are ~2000 m or more above sea level, and there are quite a number of smaller glaciers in the area.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301139@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Most of Jotunheimen has status as National Park, which means that special environmental regulations apply, the most important one being that no motor vehicles are allowed.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3301140@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This makes Jotunheimen ideally suited for hikers and climbers that enjoy the experience of basically undisturbed nature.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301141@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The Norwegian Tourist Association (DNT) maintains a number of mountain lodges in the area, where those who don't want to camp can spend the nights at a very reasonable price.@@@@1@30@@danf@24-8-2004 3301142@unknown@formal@none@1@S@However, the accommodation standard is below that of normal hotels, and there are few rooms with less than four beds.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301143@unknown@formal@none@1@S@So if you're in a party with fewer people than that, you must be prepared to share your room with strangers.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3301144@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Most of the lodges also provide good quality meals.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301145@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Some are on a self service basis, i.e. there are supplies for sale, but you have to cook yourself.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301146@unknown@formal@none@1@@In addition to the DNT accommodation, a few lodges run by private enterprise are available, the standard varies.@@@@0@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3301147@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The DNT also maintains a net of marked hiking routes representing various degrees of physical challenge.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301148@unknown@formal@none@1@@The easiest ones run in the valleys at ~900 - 1500 m from one lodge to another, others lead you to the highest peaks and along the steepest ridges.@@@@0@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3301149@unknown@formal@none@1@S@As opposed to National Parks in other countries, you are by no means obliged to stick to the marked routes.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301150@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Norway has a special law granting everyone the right to unobstructed hiking anywhere in forest and mountain areas, regardless of ownership to the land, as long as you leave nature in the same condition as when you came.@@@@0@38@@danf@24-8-2004 3301151@unknown@formal@none@1@S@As far as natural areas are concerned (i.e. not fields, gardens etc.), and provided you're on foot, there is no such thing as "no trespassing" in Norway.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3301152@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If you choose to leave the normal hiking paths in Jotunheimen, however, you should not be a novice to outdoor life.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3301153@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Even in the summer time the weather can change in only few minutes, and if you get lost in rain (or even snow!) and fog the experience can be quite unpleasant.@@@@0@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3301154@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A map of the area, a compass and knowing how to use those items is a must!@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301155@unknown@formal@none@1@S@But anyway, the most undisturbed nature and some of the most spectacular experiences are (of course!) found off-route....@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3301156@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You should not rely on cellular phones, walkie-talkies etc. for emergency communication.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301157@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The mountains block the radio waves in most cases except up on the highest peaks, and for environmental reasons all link stations are located outside Jotunheimen.@@@@1@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3301158@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The hike along Besseggen is perhaps the most famous mountain trip in Norway.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301159@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It goes from Gjendesheim over Veslefjell along a quite narrow ridge at ~1700 m down to Memurubu (sounds African, but isn't!).@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3301160@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Along the ridge you have a spectacular view of the deep green lake Gjende at 984 m on your left, the blue lake Bessvatn at 1373 m on your right.@@@@1@30@@danf@24-8-2004 3301161@unknown@formal@none@1@S@One disadvantage with this route is that it can become rather crowded during the high season in summer!@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3301162@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Also, if you tend to get dizzy when looking down, you should consider walking it in the opposite direction of that described here.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3301163@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Another mountain worth visiting is Surtningssui, about six hours walk along a path in a scenic valley from Memurubu.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301164@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The summit of Surtningssui is at 2368 m, and the view in all directions is very beautiful.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301165@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Only a short section of the route about 1 km from the top is quite steep.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301166@unknown@formal@none@1@S@But when you reach there, you look straight down into a deep abyss to a glacier on the east side!@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301167@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This should have been my first day of proper hiking but I woke to the sound of heavy rain on the outside of the tent, and it continued the same for most of the day.@@@@1@35@@danf@24-8-2004 3301168@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Not wanting to get everything soaking wet right at the start of the trip I decided to sit it out.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301169@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At this point the body sized (or perhaps coffin sized) tent seemed a bad idea.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301170@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A pleasant day's walk along Russvatnet to a new campsite in øvre Russglopet.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301171@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The only slight snag was a shortcut along the lake side which involved a couple of intrepid river crossings.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301172@unknown@formal@none@1@S@I suppose that we British aren't used to the way that in glacial areas rivers are at their highest in the Summer.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301173@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Anyway to cross the Blåtjørnåa I had to break off a couple dead tree branches to use as poles and wade up to mid-thigh through the rather chilly water.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3301174@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Next time I'll follow the path!@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301175@unknown@formal@none@1@S@With some sadness I descended to Torfinsbu and took the boat - which claims to be Northern Europe's highest scheduled boat service - to Eidsbugarden at the other end of Bygdin.@@@@1@31@@danf@24-8-2004 3301176@unknown@formal@none@1@EH@From there I caught a bus back to civilisation in the form of the main road at Tyinkrysset.@@@@-1@-1@@danf@24-8-2004 3301177@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This bus journey was one of the most memorable parts of the trip - as we drove along the unpaved road alongside Tyin lake there were the most fantastic views of the receding Jotunheim mountains reflected in the calm water.@@@@1@40@@danf@24-8-2004 3301178@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Nordkalottleden is a hiking trail of 800 km total length, starting in Norway, passing through Sweden and Finland and ending in Norway again.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3301179@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It touches Treriksröset, where the borders of the three countries have one point in common.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301180@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Conditions along the trail are varying greatly.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3301181@unknown@formal@none@1@@On some of the sections cabins are available where provisions are sold, on other parts you have to carry all provisions and stay in a tent.@@@@0@26@@danf@24-8-2004 3301182@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The new trail leads along well established local trails for great distances.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301183@unknown@formal@none@1@S@So one could use the existing cabins.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3301184@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Six cabins have been newly built.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301185@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Hikers can do a long-distance hike in parts or as a total.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301186@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The overall requirements , however, are significantly higher than, for instance, on the popular trails in Sweden.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301187@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There are several smaller and bigger problems that you have to deal with.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301188@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The norwegian cabins are locked.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3301189@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You can rent a key for a small fee.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301190@unknown@formal@none@1@@It is easy for members of the STF, we just deposited 70 Skr in Abisko and got a key.@@@@0@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301191@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The swedish huts have a hutkeeper during season, and out of season one room is accessible.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301192@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The finnish cabins are open, but can be smaller than the others and can be filled.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301193@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Some cabins have not yet been built, for instance Koie in Norway, so you need a tent on these sections.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301194@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The pre-existing trails are usually well-marked.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301195@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The sign of Nordkalottleden is not used very frequently as a marking, and sometimes you just find it at the cabin.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3301196@unknown@formal@none@1@@On some sections there are no possibilities to buy provisions, and the are no help telephones as in Sweden, so you are on your own, and in some parts you will rarely meet other hikers.@@@@0@35@@danf@24-8-2004 3301197@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We set off at around 9.00am hoping to set off earlier.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301198@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We had 1000m to climb to the summit.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301199@unknown@formal@none@1@@The good news was the climb to 800m was on a Forest track, the bad news was the trees from then on and the hot weather made it very tough.@@@@0@30@@danf@24-8-2004 3301200@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It was tough going through the woods and once above the trees the going was easier but still tough.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301201@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Deep heather and shrubs existed above the tree line with vast boulder fields above 1100m.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301202@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We didn't get to the summit until 3.00pm.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301203@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The wind was static and apart from flies, all was silent.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301204@unknown@formal@none@1@@We moved on across the plateaus using a DNT path, by now dad was complaining about blisters.@@@@0@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301205@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We kept moving until 6.00pm where we had found a place next to a lake.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301206@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We noticed quite quickly that possible camping opportunities were very limited to a narrow altitude band next to lakes.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301207@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There had been a drought for over a month here now.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301208@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Only isolated patches of snow fed any streams.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301209@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For me though the setting was remote given my experience.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3301210@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The plateaus was undulating at 1100m +- 100m and the lumps looked a lot higher than they really were.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301211@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The good weather continued for most of the time we were here.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301212@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It was my intention to climb any summit that was on the map.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301213@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We did just that and although the summits rose up about 150 - 200m from the plateau, they felt rewarding once reached.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301214@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The going was tough over the boulder slopes and the steep bands of rock not exactly obvious on the map hampered progress further.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3301215@unknown@formal@none@1@S@They did provide interest though.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3301216@unknown@formal@none@1@@The rock had fissures in them and in many of them we found melting snow which could only be seen at close hand.@@@@0@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3301217@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Our plan was to walk back now towards Bletoppen and then when close to our way down, we would stop and camp.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301218@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We didn't set the tent up until it was nearly dusk.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301219@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The idea being that exposure to UV should be kept to a minimum.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301220@unknown@formal@none@1@S@With my previous tent, the strength of the flysheet was reduced that of tissue paper over the years of use it received.@@@@0@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301221@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The wind picked up and curiously the clouds above at ~ 2000m were going eastwards while at our camp at 1200m the wind was blowing the other way.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3301222@unknown@formal@none@1@S@While having dinner, the clouds built up very quickly and dad got worried because of our altitude and the threat of Lightning.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301223@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We subsequently packed up and quickly headed down to the valley.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301224@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Gaustatoppen is by far the highest peak in the area and has the record of having the most extensive views in Norway.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301225@unknown@formal@none@1@S@With the plateaus base at ~1100m and the other summits at ~1200 -- 1400m, Gausta did provide us with some views.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3301226@unknown@formal@none@1@@We reached the hut up there in 1.5 hours from the road, as we climbed up, the view became increasingly hazy with gale force winds high up.@@@@0@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3301227@unknown@formal@none@1@@The next day was spent walking around the big lake present and then going to the other side of Gausta to climb some peaks there.@@@@0@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3301228@unknown@formal@none@1@S@We climbed up to quite a big cave, though we didn't have torches to take a further look inside.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301229@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It started raining that day and it continued into the night.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301230@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The next day gave us some extensive views though and the haze had cleared away.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301231@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Our last Day walking.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3301232@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This peak being a rise above the other rises on the undulating plateaus proved to be challenging navigation wise.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301233@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The 1:50000 maps only have contour intervals of 20m.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301234@unknown@formal@none@1@@This means small crags present are only evident on the map by a small closing together of two contour lines.@@@@0@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301235@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Much skill is needed to accurately go over ground like this in mist though luckily it was clear weather but still challenging.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301236@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The views over the Hargangervidda plateaus were extensive and wanted me to explore the wilder places.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301237@unknown@formal@none@1@S@How to get to Norway@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3301238@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By Airline@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3301239@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Most people travelling to Norway will probably choose to travel by airline.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301240@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The most international connections go to/from Oslo International Airport Gardermoen.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3301241@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This airport has direct connections to virtually all Norwegian airports, most cities in northern Europe and some cities in the United States.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301242@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Most travellers will find it valuable to fly with one of the great international carriers with a stop at their home airport.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301243@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Check out SAS (Copenhagen), KLM (Amsterdam), BA (London), Air France (Paris) and Lufthansa (Frankfurt).@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301244@unknown@formal@none@1@@For those crossing the Atlantic, Icelandair has the shortest route with stop in Reykjavik.@@@@0@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301245@unknown@formal@none@1@S@They sometimes provide good deals too.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301246@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Some of Norway's smaller Airports also have international connections.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301247@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There are flights from Copenhagen, London and Amsterdam to Bergen/Flesland, and Stavanger.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301248@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Braathens operates an airline from Murmansk, Russia to Tromsø.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301249@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By Train@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3301250@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Many travellers use trains, due to favorable prizes and relaxed atmosphere.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301251@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There are direct international trains to Oslo S (Central Station) from Copenhagen, Malmö, Gothenburg and Stockholm.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301252@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There is also a train line from Östersund (Sweden) to Trondheim.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301253@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This is served by several trains each day with connections to Stockholm.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301254@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It is also possible to go directly to Northern Norway by train.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301255@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The rail line from Kiruna (Sweden) to Narvik was built to ship out copper from the mines of Kiruna.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301256@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This line played an important role during the war.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301257@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Today the line is served by normal trains, which give the visitor an impression of the contrast between Sweden's deep forests and Norway's fjords and steep mountains.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3301258@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By Bus@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3301259@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There are a number of international bus connections from various cities on the continent.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301260@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Most terminate in Oslo.@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3301261@unknown@formal@none@1@@Inquire at your local travellers agent.@@@@0@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301262@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For travellers going to Finnmark there is a bus service from Oslo to Alta through Sweden.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301263@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It should be possible to board this bus in one of the Swedish Bottenviken coast towns.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301264@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By Boat@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3301265@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There are a number of international ferry services.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301266@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Ferries from Kiel and Copenhagen go directly to Oslo.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301267@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Some ferries approach the towns on the Norwegian south coast from Denmark.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301268@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The shortest of these is the ferry from Hirtshals to Kristiansand which takes about 6 hours.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301269@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There are also ferry services from Hanstholm in Denmark and Newcastle in England crossing the North Sea to Stavanger and Bergen.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3301270@unknown@formal@none@1@S@More determined travellers can also reach Bergen with the Smyril Line from Iceland and the Færøyar.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301271@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The only international boat connection in Northern Norway is the catamaran connection between Murmansk and Kirkenes.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301272@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By Car@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3301273@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Taking your own car to Norway can be a very nice experience.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301274@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Be aware of the special driving conditions in the country, especially in the winter.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301275@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Although all of the ferries crossing Skagerak, Kattegat and the North Sea take cars, most choose to drive through Sweden.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301276@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The possibilities of roads to take from Norway to Sweden are endless.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301277@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Those going to Finnmark will probably choose to go through the northern end of Finland before driving to Karasjok, Kautokeino or Kirkenes.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301278@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If you are going to North Cape, be aware that you're missing a lot by not taking the Norwegian highway E6 at least one of the ways!@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3301279@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Travelling in Norway@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3301280@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By Airline@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3301281@unknown@formal@none@1@@Long hauls in Norway is best done by airline.@@@@0@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301282@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Norway is a long country and distances are greater than in most of the other European countries.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301283@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You can fly from Oslo to most of the cities in Southern Norway in 1-2 hrs.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301284@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The trip from Oslo to Tromsø will take about 2 hrs.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301285@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Pricing on tickets varies greatly.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3301286@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The best prizes are often given for tickets booked well in advance.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301287@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By Train@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3301288@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Apart from local trains in the Oslo area, the railway system is not very extensive in Norway and serves only a few main routes; from Oslo to Stavanger, Bergen, Åndalsnes, Trondheim and Bodø.@@@@1@33@@danf@24-8-2004 3301289@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Anyway, if you're aiming at the mountains you will find that you usually will have to use the train, at least on parts of your journey.@@@@0@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3301290@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Trains in Norway are operated by NSB, Norwegian State Railways.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3301291@unknown@formal@none@1@@Tickets are fairly expensive, but usually cheaper than airline.@@@@0@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301292@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There are special discounts for youth, students, children and families.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3301293@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By Bus@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3301294@unknown@formal@none@1@@In most of the more remote parts of Norway, the only way to travel public is to use bus.@@@@0@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301295@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The bus network is comprehensive and reliable, operated by "Nor-Way bussekspress" which is a cooperation between many local operators.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301296@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You can go by bus virtually everywhere, but be aware that there is often only one or two buses each day.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3301297@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In some areas the service will be cut back in the winter because of bad weather at mountain passes.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301298@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By Boat@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3301299@unknown@formal@none@1@S@On the coast there are a number of local boat services linking cities to nearby areas.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301300@unknown@formal@none@1@S@These can be a very nice way to travel as you can stand on deck admiring the fjord landscape as you go.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301301@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Major Catamaran routes include Stavanger-Bergen, Bergen-Sogndal (Sognefjord), Bergen-Måløy (Nordfjord), Trondheim-Kristiansund and various routes around Bodø.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301302@unknown@formal@none@1@@If you go with bus or car in Western Norway you will probably not avoid using ferries.@@@@0@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301303@unknown@formal@none@1@S@All the fjords and islands make ferries a necessary part of the road network.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301304@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Most crossings only take about 10 minutes and will cost about 50 NOK for a car and 15 NOK for a person.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301305@unknown@formal@none@1@S@When driving, just follow the signs.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301306@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The coastal steamer is a route of cruise ships travelling from Bergen along the coast to Kirkenes and back.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301307@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Travellers with the coastal steamer are both tourists travelling all the way and local people doing only daytrips.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3301308@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The steamer uses 7 days from Bergen to Kirkenes.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301309@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A full cruise Bergen-Kirkenes-Bergen will cost about 11000 NOK.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301310@unknown@formal@none@1@S@By Car@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3301311@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Taking your own car to Norway can be a very nice experience.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301312@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Be aware of the special driving conditions in the country, especially in the winter.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301313@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The road network in Norway is not as comprehensive as you will find elsewhere in Europe, but this is mostly due to our special nature.@@@@1@25@@danf@24-8-2004 3301314@unknown@formal@none@1@@Steep mountains and severe weather conditions makes a lot of tunnels, bridges and ferries necessary.@@@@0@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301315@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If you take your car, be sure to check out local conditions, especially if you come in winter.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3301316@unknown@formal@none@1@@Remember that the main roads often not are the roads with the best sights, as these normally has been designed for local transport.@@@@0@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3301317@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This often means many tunnels, and you risk ending up seeing only the inside of Norway!@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301318@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If you bring your car, be sure to use your opportunity to see small places off the mainstream road.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301319@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Light@@@@1@1@@danf@24-8-2004 3301320@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The first new rule a foreign driver in Norway encounters is that he is required to drive with the lights on in the middle of the day!@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3301321@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The reason is special light conditions.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301322@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Due to the country's position far north there are long periods of low sun.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301323@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This gives the light in Norway a very special colour - especially in the winter.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301324@unknown@formal@none@1@S@North of the Arctic Circle there is a period with Midnight Sun around midsummernight, 21 June.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301325@unknown@formal@none@1@@There is also a period of total dark around midwinter, the 21 December.@@@@0@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301326@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The length of this period varies with the latitude.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301327@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For instance Harstad had midnight sun from 22 May to 21 July, whilst Longyearbyen on Svalbard had midnight sun from April to September.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3301328@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Most tourists come to see the midnight sun, but the Total Dark can also be worth an experience.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3301329@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Despite the name, it is never totally dark on mainland Norway, but in the period around midwinter, 21 December, the sun never rises above the horizon in Northern Norway.@@@@1@29@@danf@24-8-2004 3301330@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At these times, the only light during the day is a red coloured light around noon.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301331@unknown@formal@none@1@S@These times are great for viewing the Northern Lights.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301332@unknown@formal@none@1@@The Northern Lights is particles from the sun burning in the atmosphere.@@@@0@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301333@unknown@formal@none@1@S@These lights only occur close to the poles because of the polarity of the particles and the earth's magnetic field.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301334@unknown@formal@none@1@S@To see the northern lights, if you do, will most probably be the greatest experience of your trip.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3301335@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The lights start as small rays of violet light in the corner of the sky, but soon spread out as a curtain.@@@@0@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301336@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This curtain rolls over and over again, revealing colours of green, violet and pink.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301337@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Sometimes it can be so strong that the entire landscape is enlightened.@@@@1@12@@danf@24-8-2004 3301338@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The chances of seeing northern lights are highest in Northern Norway and Svalbard on clear nights in the Autumn and the Winter.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301339@unknown@formal@none@1@@For some reason the "show" starts usually between 16.00 and 21.00 and can last for several hours.@@@@0@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301340@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Driving@@@@1@1@@danf@24-8-2004 3301341@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Driving in Norway summertime should not be a problem as long as you follow the local legislation, and remember who you are.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301342@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Norway has a lot of narrow winding roads.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301343@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Therefore you should bring a light vehicle, with sufficient horsepower.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3301344@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Remember; the locals know the conditions and the roads.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301345@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Stop now and then and let them pass.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301346@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Driving wintertime can be challenging.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3301347@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The locals use special tires with spikes.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3301348@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If you don't have them, bring chains and drive carefully.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3301349@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In most of inner Norway, the roads will be covered with snow in the winter.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301350@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The main roads are treated with salt, but this means that the snow and ice will get even more slippery as soon as you get off them.@@@@1@27@@danf@24-8-2004 3301351@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The most important is: drive with care.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3301352@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Norwegians have special courses in winter driving and have been doing this all their lives.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301353@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Do not follow their speed.@@@@1@5@@danf@24-8-2004 3301354@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Many mountain roads are closed during the winter.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301355@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Only main connection roads are kept open, but these can also be closed during bad weather or snow conditions.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301356@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Check with locals and look for the signs "Åpen" (Open), "Stengt" (Closed) and "Kolonnekjøring" (Line driving).@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301357@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Line driving is a special custom to get important traffic across the mountain during bad weather.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301358@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The cars are gathered up in a tunnel, and drive in a line close to each other to cross the mountain.@@@@1@21@@danf@24-8-2004 3301359@unknown@formal@none@1@@If you encounter this: Use yellow flashing warning lights when driving, and DO NOT lose sight of the car in front of you.@@@@0@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3301360@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If you do, keep the lights on, and don't go out.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301361@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It's impossible for the plough driver to see you.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301362@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Protected Areas in Norway@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3301363@unknown@formal@none@1@S@General Protection@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3301364@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Norway has a very special nature, and many laws are given to protect it from being destroyed.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301365@unknown@formal@none@1@@Firstly, the Every Mans Right gives everyone the right to be in the nature, as long as nothing is done to harm the nature.@@@@0@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3301366@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It is illegal to put up fences outside cultivated areas, and it's illegal to put up signs denying anyone access.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301367@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It's also illegal to put up advertisement boards outside cities.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3301368@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Travel with motorized vehicles outside roads is illegal without special reason and permission.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301369@unknown@formal@none@1@@Such travel with snowmobile is legal on Svalbard and in Finnmark on marked routes.@@@@0@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301370@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It's also generally illegal to build huts, houses, roads or bridges outside cultivated areas without permission from the local municipality.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301371@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In addition to these general rules there are several kinds of special protected areas, where the rules are stronger.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301372@unknown@formal@none@1@S@These are:@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3301373@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Landscape Protected Area (Landskapsvernområde)@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3301374@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In these areas permissions will not be given for anything that will change the character of the landscape.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3301375@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This is the mildest form of protection, and is normally given to medium-sized areas without roads or any other motorized means of transportation, but with some technical installations.@@@@1@28@@danf@24-8-2004 3301376@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Wild mountain areas with some regulated lakes often get this status.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301377@unknown@formal@none@1@S@National Park (Nasjonalpark)@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3301378@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A National Park is a larger area without any technical installations.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301379@unknown@formal@none@1@S@A national park is according to the definition "an area where the nature is nationally and globally special, and therefore worth protection".@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301380@unknown@formal@none@1@S@As this is written there are 16 National Parks in Norway, but the number is still rising.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301381@unknown@formal@none@1@S@National Parks do not have roads, and motorized travel is usually only allowed for critical missions.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301382@unknown@formal@none@1@@Most of Norway's National Parks today are mountain areas, and many of the most known mountain areas have this status.@@@@0@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301383@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Nature Reserve (Naturreservat)@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3301384@unknown@formal@none@1@@The status of Nature Reserve is usually given to a small area with very special type of landscape, or - more common - wildlife.@@@@0@24@@danf@24-8-2004 3301385@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Nature Reserve is the strongest protection.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301386@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Motorized travel is absolutely not allowed, and in some cases travel is not allowed at all.@@@@1@16@@danf@24-8-2004 3301387@unknown@formal@none@1@S@(Although this is rare, due to the Every Mans Right.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3301388@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It is usually only practised at bird colonies at the coast.)@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301389@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There are many small Nature Reserves in Norway.@@@@1@8@@danf@24-8-2004 3301390@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Mountain Lodges@@@@1@2@@danf@24-8-2004 3301391@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Different types of Lodges@@@@1@4@@danf@24-8-2004 3301392@unknown@formal@none@1@S@In most areas in Norwegian Mountains you will find different types of Mountain Lodges.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301393@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Many lodges are owned and operated by member organizations of The Norwegian Mountain Touring Assosiation.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301394@unknown@formal@none@1@S@These lodges meet a certain standard, and have standardized prices with discounts for members.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301395@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There are also private lodges, many of which also have discounts for DNT (Norwegian Mountain Touring Assosiation) members.@@@@1@18@@danf@24-8-2004 3301396@unknown@formal@none@1@S@There are staffed lodges, selv-service lodges and non-service lodges.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301397@unknown@formal@none@1@S@At the staffed lodges you can buy meals (breakfast and dinner) and many lodges offer snacks, beer and wine.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301398@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Staffed mountain lodges are marked on the maps as red squares.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301399@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Self-service lodges are unstaffed lodges equipped with stoves, firewood and a stock of food.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301400@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You just take what you want and pay at the lodge with cash or your credit card.@@@@1@17@@danf@24-8-2004 3301401@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This system is based on trust and is unique.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301402@unknown@formal@none@1@S@It might seem strange, but experience shows that people in the mountain are honest.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301403@unknown@formal@none@1@@Self-service are shown on the maps as a half-by-half red/white squares.@@@@0@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301404@unknown@formal@none@1@S@No-service lodges work the same way as self-service lodges, except there is no food here, so you have to bring your own.@@@@1@22@@danf@24-8-2004 3301405@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Anyway no-service lodges always have heating ovens and some kind of cooking equipment.@@@@1@13@@danf@24-8-2004 3301406@unknown@formal@none@1@S@No-service lodges are marked as a white square with a red border on the maps.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301407@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Food@@@@1@1@@danf@24-8-2004 3301408@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The food served at the staffed lodges is typical Norwegian-style food, unlike what you probably will find in city restaurants.@@@@1@20@@danf@24-8-2004 3301409@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Dinner is typically three courses: a soup, a main dish and a light dessert.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301410@unknown@formal@none@1@S@The dinner will usually be a typically Norwegian course.@@@@1@9@@danf@24-8-2004 3301411@unknown@formal@none@1@S@As for breakfast this is usually "koldtbord" which means unlimited amounts of cereals, porridge and bread with different add-ons.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301412@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Drink is milk, tea and coffee.@@@@1@6@@danf@24-8-2004 3301413@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You will usually have the opportunity to make a packed lunch at the breakfast which you can eat outdoors.@@@@1@19@@danf@24-8-2004 3301414@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Self-service huts naturally have a more limited choice of food.@@@@1@10@@danf@24-8-2004 3301415@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You will find mostly dried and canned dinners, and different sorts of crackers for breakfast.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301416@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Bringing a bread might be an idea.@@@@1@7@@danf@24-8-2004 3301417@unknown@formal@none@1@S@What to bring?@@@@1@3@@danf@24-8-2004 3301418@unknown@formal@none@1@@Most lodges (both staffed and non-staffed) requires you to bring a sheet sleeping bag.@@@@0@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301419@unknown@formal@none@1@S@Light-weight sheet sleeping bags can be bought at sports shops and at some staffed lodges.@@@@1@15@@danf@24-8-2004 3301420@unknown@formal@none@1@S@You can also bring your normal sleeping bag if you want.@@@@1@11@@danf@24-8-2004 3301421@unknown@formal@none@1@S@If you want to stay more than a couple of nights at mountain lodges you will find it valuable with a DNT membership.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3301422@unknown@formal@none@1@S@This can be bought at DNT in Oslo, and at the different member organizations, which have offices in nearly every city in Norway.@@@@1@23@@danf@24-8-2004 3301423@unknown@formal@none@1@S@For payment it can be wise to bring both cash and a credit card.@@@@1@14@@danf@24-8-2004 3301424@unknown@formal@none@1@@Don't think twice about bringing cash, stealing is unheard of in Norwegian Mountains!@@@@0@13@@danf@24-8-2004