[3-1 |] Skogadalsbøen [3-2 |] Roadless gem [3-3] Utladalen, between Årdal and Sognefjellet - the green oasis between the wild mountains in West Jotunheimen - drew people long before our time. [3-4] The early hiking pioneers stayed at summer dairies high up in the valley, with varying luck. [3-5] "Jotunologist" Emanuel Mohn was enthusiastic after he was met with buttermilk pudding at 4 a.m. by buxom milkmaids in the summer of 1872, but Slingsby and his party were less enthused when he and two of his party had to share a bed in the summer of 1876 when they stayed on their way to their famous ascent of Store Skagastølstind. [3-6] To the newly-started Touring Association there consequently came an early recommendation on building a lodge in this lush mountain valley. [3-7] However, it was easier said than done. [3-8] How they should transport materials to so inaccessible place and who should build were long open questions. [3-9] Alone, transport by horse-drawn sledge took three winters, and not until the summer of 1888 was the first lodge finished with 12 beds. [3-10] It turned out to be far from adequate. [3-11] DNT was obliged to lease another building, and soon built on to it, and transportation was just as laborious every time. [3-12] Everything considered, a whole book could have been written on the transport to Skodadalsbøen through the years. [3-13] Few - if any - of DNT's lodges have entailed so much drudgery in being supplied with all that's needed to give hikers food and lodging. [3-14] Not until the past few decades have tracked vehicles and helicopters taken over the job done by packhorses and manpower. [3-15] Just as in agreement as the various wardens have been in recounting the harrowing transport conditions, all agree that in spite of it all, they would not have done without their yeas at Skogadalsbøen. [3-16] The lodge uppermost in Utladalen is a gem where both staff and guests thrive. [3-17] It's green and lush around the lodge, and it's magnificently placed, with a broad view of a profusion of splendid peaks and summits round the horizon. [3-18] Whether you will take a closer look at the valley's glories or feel ice and snow under your feet on high peaks, here you have enough choices. [3-19 |] Access [3-20] There are marked hiking routes to Turtagrø, Fannaråken, Sognefjellhytta, Krossbu, Leirvassbu. [3-21] Olavsbu (two routes, through Raudalen and Skogadalen), Tyinholmen, Fondsbu, Ingjerdbu, and Morkabu. [3-22]

[3-23 |] Facts [3-24] Glitterheim was opened in 1888. [3-25 |] Owner: DNT OA. [3-26] Wardens: Anne Serine Heggdal and Lars Åge Hilde. [3-27] The lodge is located in Luster Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 834 meters above sea level, and has a total of 106 beds, including 24 in self-service lodgings for use out of season. [3-28 |] Tel: 975 69 094. [3-29 |] Web: www.dntoa.no [3-30]

[3-31 |] Ingjerdbu, Morkabu and Vetti [3-32 |] Comfortable places in Utladalen [3-33]

[3-34] It's difficult to walk through Vettismorki without being fascinated by the unusual scenery up there. [3-35] Tall pine trees and lush scenery are no matter of course 700 meters skyward, and Norway's highest freefall waterfall also is an experience (see box Hike 3a). [3-36] It's unwise to rush through such scenery. [3-37] You don't need to either. [3-38] There are two small but excellent self-service cabins at Vettismorki. [3-39] Morkabu and Ingjerdbu were set up by the people of Vetti and are operated as self-service cabins. [3-40] The cabins are locked with the regular DNT lock and stocked with basic provisions. [3-41] Self-service lodgings are a very good thing, but now the Vetti mountain farm in Utladalsjuvet that is the gem of the valley. [3-42] This place has been owned by the same family, at least since 1775, but it's possible that settlement of the place goes back to before the Black Death. [3-43] The farm comprises nearly 50,000 decares. [3-44] It includes larger mountain plateaus on both sides of Utladalen and also the splendid virgin forest up at Vettismorki. [3-45] In 1868, the same year that DNT was founded, Vetti received the first tourists, but first in 1875, when Vetlestova was finished, the farm was granted status as a tourist station. [3-46] Vetti long was one of the key gateways to the Jotunheimen, and it wouldn't do to go through Utladalen without staying at Vetti. [3-47] Before Turtagrø was finished in the end of the 1880s, it was the starting point that was most convenient for hikes in Hurrungane, and several of the owners at Vetti frequently were mountain guides. [3-48] The Meteorological Institute also frequently has relied upon the people of Vetti - who for 101 years have observed weather conditions. [3-49] Regrettably, the tourist station was closed a few years ago, but fortunately there still is an operating cafeteria there in the summer, so it's possible to go indoors and feel a bit of the atmosphere of this venerable mountain farm. [3-50]

[3-51 |] Access [3-52] There's a road to Vetti, but it is closed to vehicular traffic. [3-53] There are marked hikint trails from Morkabu and Ingjerdbu to Vetti, Skogadalsbøen, Tyinholmen and Slettningsbu. [3-54]

[3-55 |] Facts [3-56] Vetti farm, no lodgings, cafeteria in summer. [3-57] Morkabu was opened in 1985, Ingjerdbu in 1995. [3-58] The cabins are owned and operated by Vetti farm as self-service cabins. [3-59] The cabins are located in Årdal Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 683 meters above sea level, and have 4 and 12 beds. [3-60] Tel: Vetti: 57 66 30 24. [3-61]

[3-62 |] Avdalen and Gravdalen [3-63 |] Alone, peaceful, and abandoned [3-64] The Avdalen farm in Utladalen is located just a couple of kilometers from Hjelle, but in times past, the path to the farms was so difficult to follow that it was usable only in summer. [3-65] When snow and ice lay on the hillsides, it usually was dangerous to pick one's way, so the people of the farms had to be self-sufficient for many months at a time. [3-66] Also here, history is a bit vague, but the Avdalen farm is mentioned in the 17th century, and presumably it was people from Luster who first cleared a summer dairy up here, which says a bit about the accessibility from the valley close by. [3-67] Lærdal priest Ulrik Fredrik Bøyesen was mildly shocked by the road to the farms after he visited Utladalen in 1818, and wrote a long epistle about it in a magazine: [3-68] "Fields lie so dreadfully steep and so altogether near the fearful precipice that no novice should at anytime dare thither." [3-69] The location of the farm greatly impressed the visitors of the day, but after a road came along the floor of the valley, it's considerably easier to get to the farms. [3-70] A couple hundred meters in elevation along a good path, so you're there. [3-71] Moreover, on the way the path passes the disused Hasgaberg holding that once was a cotter's farm under Avdalen. [3-72] It was abandoned in the 1950s. [3-73] On the other hand, up at the Avdalen farm, there's life and activity. [3-74] It, too, was abandoned in 1959, but enterprising Årdalers have in recent years restored larger parts of the farm facilities, so both food and lodging can be had in summer by tourists who drop in. [3-75] Avdalen also has a self-service lodging that can be used year-round. [3-76] From the restored mountain farm, the trail continues, among others, to the Gravdalen no-service cabin. [3-77] It is an old summer dairy under Avdalen that has been restored by Årdal Turlag. [3-78] Gravdalen lies in a majestic setting above timberline. [3-79] If possible, from up there the panorama towards Utladarene and the mountains on the east side of the valley is more impressive than from down at the parent farm. [3-80] Shame that so few hikers know about this gem. [3-81]

[3-82 |] Access [3-83] There are marked hiking routes to Avdalen and Gravdalen from Hjelle, Vetti and Stølsmaradalen. [3-84]

[3-85 |] Facts [3-86] Avdalen farm has been a tourist lodge since 1991. [3-87] The lodge is leased by Årdal Turlag and is operated as a staffed lodge parts of the summer. [3-88] The lodge is located in Årdal Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 380 meters above sea level, and has 6 beds in self-service lodgings. [3-89]

[3-90] Glitterheim was opened in 1975. [3-91] Årdal Turlag operates the no-service cabin. [3-92] The cabin is located in Årdal Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 840 meters above sea level, and has 2 beds. [3-93]

[3-94 |] Skagastølsbu and Stølsmaradalen [3-95 |] Distinctive and thrilling [3-96]

[3-97] If you continue northwards in Utladalen from Avdalen, you come to the idyllic Stølsmaradalen. [3-98] The place offers a free view towards Stølsnostind and has a comfortable summer farm milieu. [3-99] Stølsmaradalen formerly was part of the Vetti farm properties, and in 1787 was sold by Jørgen A. Vetti to Thomas Hallvardson Midthun and Jon Melheim so they could have a summer dairy. [3-100] Most likely there had been no such activity here before then. [3-101] The summer dairy operated until 1940. [3-102] In 1975 the Touring Association leased two of the buildings and refurbished them. [3-103] The few who find their way here can hardly praise the place enough in the visitor's register, even though the cabin is not provisioned with food. [3-104] Stop if you will over a day and hike down to Stølsmaradalsfossen - from its top you can for one see the magnificent cascading waters in Fleskedalsfossen and Vettisfossen. [3-105] Stølsmaradalen also is an excellent starting point for hikes in Hurrungane, even though it can't beat its neighbor to the northwest, Skagastølsbu. [3-106] The route to it isn't marked, but use your map and compass, and you'll find it. [3-107] At Skagastølsbu it's not very idyllic. [3-108] The cabin is very exposed to the weather up on the col between Midtmaradalen and Skagastølsdalen. [3-109] It was built in 1890 to provide shelter from avalanches and to be a good starting point for climbing in the area. [3-110] The exposed location has pleased generations of Norwegian climbers and hikers, but worried those who own it. [3-111] Already in the first winter, it was blown down. [3-112] It became obvious that at 1758 harsh meters over sea level required stronger building materials than wood. [3-113] A new cabin, this time of stone, was finished in 1894. [3-114] It has stood since, but because it is raw and damp, it has been necessary to totally renovaste the cabin several times. [3-115] With its unique location, the cabin is a marvelous starting point for climbs, both of Skagastølsryggen and of Dyrehaugsryggen. [3-116] For more experienced hikers, it's also a must to have been up to the "cabin on the col." [3-117] The hike from Turtagrø up Skagastølsdalen, over the glacier and up on the col is splendid, but requires proficiency in glacier hiking. [3-118]

[3-119 |] Access [3-120] There are no marked routes to Skagastølsbu. [3-121] Stølsmaradalen has marked routes to Avdalen and to Vetti. [3-122]

[3-123 |] Facts [3-124] Skagastølsbu was built first in 1890, and first as a stone cabin in 1894. [3-125] Owner: DNT OA. [3-126] The cabin is no-service. [3-127] The cabin is located in Årdal Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 1758 meters above sea level, and has 6 bunks. [3-128]

[3-129] Stølsmaradalen was opened in 1975. [3-130] DNT leases two buildings and operates them as no-service cabins. [3-131] The cabins are located in Årdal Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 849 meters above sea level, and have 4 bunks. [3-132]

[3-133 |] Leirvassbu [3-134 |] From stone hut to high-mountain hotel [3-135] Emanuel Mohn, one of our greatest mountain pioneers, also was the prime mover for Leirvassbu. [3-136] In the DNT yearbook for 1873, he suggested that the Association should put up a simple stone hut at the place where Visdalen, Lierdalen and Gravdalen meet. [3-137] It took just two years to realize t he project, so building permit processing and long-term planning were considerably more rapid then than now, both in DNT and otherwise. [3-138] In the long run, a simple stone hut at Leirvannet was inadequate to house the increasing hordes of hikers who with time sought to see this part of the Jotunheimen. [3-139] Amund Elveseter, one of the owners down at Ytterdalssetrene, saw the need and moved his house further up the valley. [3-140] He received support from DNT for transport and expansion, and in 1887 he and his wife Anne could receive visitors up at Slethamn, five kilometers from Leirvann. [3-141] It quickly became a popular tourist lodge. [3-142] Amund died in 1904, and one of the last events he experienced regrettably was an avalanche that flattened the cabin. [3-143] Fortunately, his son Rasmus also was a hard worker; he moved the tourist lodge one more time. [3-144] This time the site was the one that so many hikers through the years have boasted of as Jotunheimen's most splendid - at the foot of Kyrkja and the shore of Liervannet. [3-145] The new Leirvassbu was finished in 1906. [3-146] The further history is - as for most lodges in the Jotunheimen - one of rebuilding and expansion, first under Rasmus and his wife, Magnhild, and thereafter with his son Åmund and his wife Jessie as the impetus. [3-147] They developed the Elveseter home farm down in Bøverdalen to be a real gem, at the same time that they expanded Leirvassbu to today's hotel standard, brought in electricity and telephone and built a road. [3-148] Operating both Elveseter and Leirvassbu was, however, a bit too much, so Åmund has for many years leased Leirvassbu to other capable people. [3-149] They have managed to retain the cozy milieu of the place that has so much to offer mountain hikers and high mountain skiers. [3-150] And the first stone hut that DNT built - you can see it newly-restored on the slope just below today's modern tourist lodge. [3-151]

[3-152 |] Access [3-153] There's a road to the lodge. [3-154]

[3-155 |] Facts [3-156] Leirvassbu was built as a stone hut in 1875 by DNT. [3-157] The first tourist lodge was finished in 1906. [3-158 |] Owner: Åmund Elveseter. [3-159] Wardens: Magny Hilde and Bjørn Bjørgen. [3-160 |] The lodge is located in Lom township in Oppland, 1405 meters above sea level, and has 190 beds. [3-161 |] Tel: 61 21 29 32. [3-162 |] E-Mail: lvassbu@online.no [3-163]

[3-164 |] Fannaråken [3-165 |] Norway's highest elevation tourist lodge [3-166]

[3-167] Like a mighty guardian of the centuries-old traffic along the thoroughfare over Sognefjellet, Fannaråken reaches broad and somber, usually shrouded in mist. [3-168] A silent warning of storms and bad weather. [3-169] But now and then, the summit is attractive, light and fine. [3-170] Then you see that it's one of the major peaks in Jotunheimen that is most accessible. [3-171] If you get to the top, you will find that Fannasråken is one of the most splendid vantage points in Norway, if the weather is good. [3-172] The Hurrungane's string of peaks lies so near that you're almost tempted to touch them. [3-173] The overview over Smørstabbreen to the east is almost total. [3-174] In Breheimen to the west, you see larger parts of the imposing Jostedalsbreen and the whole string of peaks up to Holåtinder and Hestbrepigger farthest to the north. [3-175] As early as 1926, the Weather Bureau of West Norway set up an observatory on the very summit of Fannaråken, and stationed two meteorologists there the year round. [3-176] The goal was a high-elevation vantage point from which one could see storms that came in from the west as early as possible, to provide warning of them. [3-177] It was a tough life, with much bad weather and a continuous battle against ice, snow and wetness almost hear round. [3-178] When the weather turned really bad, it was hardly possible to go outside at all. [3-179] DNT had contributed a sum to the building of the station, and hikers could use a room in the observatory. [3-180] The room soon was too small, and in 1934, the first tourist lodge was finished after an impressive transport job, in which packhorses, winches, aerial cables and pack boards had been used to carry up the thirty tons that were needed to build 12 bunks, a common room and a kitchen at 2068 meters above sea level. [3-181] The lodge since has been expanded and modernized several times, and today it is an extremely popular hike destination, regardless of whether or not one spends the night. [3-182]

[3-183 |] Access [3-184] There are marked hiking routes to Turtagrø, Sognefjellet and Skogadalsbøen. [3-185]

[3-186 |] Facts [3-187] Fannaråkhytta has received tourists since 1926. [3-188 |] Owner: DNT OA. [3-189] The lodge is located in Luster Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 2068 meters above sea level, and has 36 beds. [3-190 |] Tel: 941 35 993. [3-191 |] Web: www.dntoa.no [3-192]

[3-193 |] Turtagrø, the climbers' hotel [3-194 |] Access [3-195] Sognefjellsveien goes by the hotel. [3-196] There are marked hiking routes to Fannaråken, Skagastølsbu, and Stølsdalen. [3-197] The road over Sognefjellet is closed in winter, but usually plowed up to Turtagrø. [3-198]

[3-199 |] Facts [3-200] Turtagrø was built in 1888. [3-201] The hotel is owned and operated by Ole Berge Drægni. [3-202] The hotel is located in Luster Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 884 meters above sea level, and has 80 beds. [3-203 |] Tel: 57 68 61 16. [3-204 |] E-Mail: turtagro@online.no [3-205 |] Web: www.skjolden-com/bylus/turtagro.html [3-206]

[3-207 |] Olavsbu See description in brochure 2 [3-208 |] Access [3-209] There are marked hiking routes to Gjendebu, Leirvassbu, Skogadalsbøen, Eidsbugarden and Fondsbu. [3-210]

[3-211 |] Facts [3-212] Olavsbu self-service cabin was opened in 1952. [3-213] Owner: DNT OA. [3-214] The cabin is located in Luster Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 1440 meters above sea level, and has 40 beds. [3-215 |] Tel: None. [3-216 |] Web: www.dntoa.no [3-217]

[3-218 |] Memurubu See description in brochure 4 [3-219 |] Access [3-220] There are marked hiking routes to Turtagrø, Fortundalen, Nørdstedalsseter and Herva at Skålavatnet. [3-221]

[3-222 |] Facts [3-223] Stølsdalen was built in 1991 and is operated as a self-service cabin. [3-224] Owner: DNT OA. [3-225] The cabin is located in Luster Township in Sogn og Fjordane, 1040 meters above sea level, and has 8 beds. [3-226] Tel: None. [3-227] Web: www.dntoa.no [3-228]

[3-229 |] Krossbu See description in brochure 4 [3-230]

[3-231 |] Access [3-232] Sognefjellsveien goes by the cabin, and there is buss service. [3-233] There are marked hiking routes to Nørdstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (with glacier guiding), Skogadalsbøen and Fannaråken (with glacier guiding). [3-234]

[3-235 |] Facts [3-236] Krossbu tourist station started operation in 1902. [3-237 |] Owners: Torill and Kåre Vole. [3-238] Krossbu tourist station is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 1260 meters above sea level, and has 85 beds. [3-239 |] Tel: 61 21 29 22. [3-240]

[3-241 |] Eidsbugarden [3-242 |] See description in brochure 2 [3-243 |] Access [3-244] There's a road to the hotel and boat service on Bygdin. [3-245] There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen and Yksendalsbu. [3-246]

[3-247 |] Facts [3-248] Vinjestova, the predecessor of Eidsbugarden Hotel, was opened in 1868. [3-249] Owner: Hans Martin Skagen. [3-250] Warden: Leif Skagen. [3-251] The hotel is located in Vang township in Oppland, 1060 meters above sea level, and has 50 beds. [3-252 |] Tel: 61 36 77 14. [3-253 |] E-Mail: ocdahl@online.no [3-254]

[3-255 |] Sognefjellhytta [3-256 |] See description in brochure 4 [3-257 |] Access [3-258] Sognefjellsveien goes by the lodge, and there is bus service. [3-259] There are marked hiking routes to Nørdstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (with glacier guiding), Skogadalsbøen and Fannaråken (with glacier guiding). [3-260]

[3-261 |] Facts [3-262] Sognefjellhytta was opened in 1947. [3-263] Owner: Anne Tove Mundhjeld and Arnfinn Jensen. [3-264 |] The lodge is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 1415 meters above sea level, and has 90 beds. [3-265 |] Tel: 61 21 29 34. [3-266 |] E-Mail: sognefjellet@sensewave.com [3-267 |] Web: www.sognefjellet.com [3-268]

[3-269 |] Tyinholmen Høyfjellstuer [3-270 |] Access [3-271] Road past the place. [3-272] Marked hiking routes to Skogadalsbøen, Vettismorki and Slettningsbu. [3-273]

[3-274 |] Facts [3-275] Tyinholmen Høyfjellstuer has received tourists since 1893. [3-276] Owner: Inger Sagstuen and Erling Olsen. [3-277] The place is located in Vang Township in Oppland, 1080 meters above sea level, and has 65 beds. [3-278 |] Tel: 61 36 78 88. [3-279]

[3-280 |] Gjendebu See description in brochure 1 [3-281 |] Access [3-282] There is scheduled boat service on Gjende throughout the summer, and there are marked hiking trails to Memurubu, Leirvassbu, Spiterstulen, Olavsbu, Fondsbu, and Torfinnsbu. [3-283]

[3-284 |] Facts [3-285] Gjendebu was opened in 1871. [3-286] Owner: DNT OA. [3-287] Wardens: Aase and Håkon Dalen. [3-288 |] The lodge is located in Lom Township in Oppland, 990 meters above sea level, and has 119 beds, including 34 beds in self-service lodgings. [3-289 |] Tel: 61 23 89 44. [3-290 |] Web: www.dntoa.no [3-291]

[3-292 |] Fondsbu See description in brochure 2 [3-293 |] Access [3-294] There's a road to Fondsbu and boat service on Bygdin. [3-295] There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen and Yksendalsbu. [3-296 |] Facts [3-297] Fondsbu tourist lodge was opened in 1993. [3-298] Owner: Fondsfinans AS. [3-299] Wardens: DNT OA. care of Nina Schreiber and Helge Lindstad. [3-300] The lodge is located in Vang Township in Oppland, 1065 meters above sea level, and has 90 beds. [3-301 |] Tel: 970 74 218. [3-302 |] Web: www.dntoa.no [3-303 |] Web: www.eidsbugarden.com [3-304]

[3-305 |] Utladalen lengthwise [3-306 |] Hike 3a - 3-4 days - gg [3-307] If you go to only one valley in the Jotunheimen, I recommend that you choose Utladalen and start at Fannaråken. [3-308] Then you will experience a cross-section of what the mountain range has to offer. [3-309 |] 1. Turtagrø to Fannaråken [3-310] Most who go to Utladalen start from Øvre Årdal and Hjelle and kike up the valley, but I am in favor of starting from the north and walking downwards (granted with a few exceptions). [3-311] From that point there are several starting places: either from Turtagrø over Keisaren, or from Sognefjellhytta or Krossbu via Vetleutladalen. [3-312] However, my favorite is to start the hike down Utladalen with a night up on Fannaråken. [3-313] Indeed, that means you start with a rather demanding uphill, but it's worth it. [3-314] If the weather is good on top, you'll get a unique view towards the area that you will go down into. [3-315] Before the sun sets somewhere behind Jostedalsbreen, the last rays gild Hurrungane's jagged peaks, and Gjertvasstind, Styggedalstinder and Skagastølstinder are particularly impressive from your place in the dress circle up on Fannaråken. [3-316] There's more than 1000 meters of elevation gain from Tjurtagrø til Fannaråken, but the trail is fine and the incline fairly even. [3-317] The trail runs in Helgedalen, in part parallel with the relatively newly built farm road towards Keisaren to Skautevatnet. [3-318] It's closed to ordinary traffic, but you can cycle in over the valley and park where the trail and the road split. [3-319] The marking goes past Ekrehytta, and thereafter the trail climbs all the way to the top. [3-320] Fannaaråkhytta is all the way up on the summit. [3-321]

[3-322 |] 2. Fannaråkhytta to Skogadalsbøen [3-323] If the weather is fine at Fannaråken, certainly you'll put off your departure, but it doesn't matter, as the day's leg is tolerable. [3-324] It begins along the long and narrow ridge of Fannaråken to Fannaråknosa. [3-325] From there, it goes steadily downhill, first to Keisarplasset (yes, it is so magnificent as to earn its name) og thereafter down Gjertvassdalen. [3-326] There are many stones in the beginning, but after a while, grass takes over, and down in the valley, the hills are green and fine. [3-327] It's not difficult to see that this has long been a coveted grazing area. [3-328] The first summer dairies that were built in Utladalen probably were those in Guridalen or at Gjertvassbøen nearby, sometime in the 18th century. [3-329] Later came Murane and Lusahaugane directly across the valley at the mouth of Storutladalen. [3-330] Utladalen's grazing quality is so good that farmers from Luster until recently took the trouble to drive livestock the long and dangerous way down from their valley and over Keisaren. [3-331] Today, domestic animals certainly aren't as agile as in the past, which perhaps explains the new road in Helgedalen, but in any case, parts of the valley are still used for grazing. [3-332] But far less than in the past. [3-333] After having passed Utla on a solid bridge, the trail passes into a dense birch forest. [3-334] If you see old pictures of the valley, the woods were rather sparse. [3-335] The growth is due to lesser grazing and less woodcutting than in the past. [3-336] After a couple of kilometers, you come out of the woods and down to the idyllic tourist lodge, Skogadalsbøen. [3-337]

[3-338 |] 3. Skogadalsbøen to Ingjerdbu, Vetti or Hjelle [3-339] The hike onward down Utladalen from Skogadalsbøen starts indeed with an uphill. [3-340] The tourist lodge lies sheltered and snug at only 834 meters above sea level, and when you follow the trail southwards, you must scramble almost up to 1300 meters to get past Friken. [3-341] On the way, the route forks twice. [3-342] First, the routes to Olavsbu, Gjendebu and Fondsbu split off to the left, and after 500 meters, the route to Tyinholmen through Uradalen splits off eastwards. [3-343] Finally up on Friken, you can enjoy both the fine view and in the remainder of the hike being only downhill. [3-344] First, you come down to the old mountain dairy Fleskedalen, where there is a new trail crossing with the alternative route towards Tyinholmen, then to end at the stately Vettismorki. [3-345] There are overnight lodgings at the self-service cabins Ingjerdbu or Morkabu, that are own and operated by Vetti farm. [3-346] The cabins are located not far from the top of the imposing Vettisfossen, which you absolutely should see. [3-347] However, it's not farther down to Hjelle than you can walk there the same day, first steeply down to the old Vetti mountain farm (food but no lodging), and then along the enjoyable, car less dirt road to Hjelle. [3-348]

[3-349 |] Jotunheimen's most splendid valley [3-350] As if chopped by the gods, Utladalen cleaves northwards from Øvre Årdal and far into the Jotunheimen. [3-351] The mark of the axe is at least 40 kilometers long, and ends up in Sognefjellet. [3-352] With that blow, Hurrungane was split from Stølsnostindane and Fannaråkbreen split from Smørstabbreen. [3-353] To complete the work of creation, there additionally are fast-flowing rivers with overwhelming falls from a score hanging branch valleys, and over the entirety a generous hand has sprinkled colors from nature's palette - the entire spectrum from fertile green to ice blue. [3-354] Around Utladalen there are at least 50 peaks over 2000 meters, but in spite of the steepness a nd bleak formations, in truth green colors are more prominent than ice. [3-355] Even though it seems inaccessible, people have lived here for generations at many places, both in the floor of the valley and up on the sheer sides. [3-356] Today, both farming and summer dairying are pretty much finished in this valley, but many of the houses still stand and are partly used as tourist lodges. [3-357] To walk this valley lengthwise is a seldom experience. [3-358 |] Utladalen nature house [3-359] There's a small information center in the old outbuilding and farmhouse at the Skåre holding at Hjelle, just inside the boundary of the Utladalen protected landscape area. [3-360] The exhibitions illustrate the natural conditions and cultural history of West Jotunheimen. [3-361] DNT and the Directorate for Nature Management have an information centre in the nature house. [3-362] In summer, there's a cafe in the farmhouse. [3-363] The Utladalen Nature House supplements the Norwegian Mountain Museum at Lom, which has status as a National Park Center. [3-364]

[3-365 |] Day hikes around Skogadalsbøen [3-366] Skogadalsbøen is a fine starting point to get to the top of Gjertvassdind's 2351 meters. [3-367] The hike is often called "Norway's longest uphill," so it is a rather demanding day's march, but it's manageable if you are moderately fit. [3-368] At the opposite end of the hike register is the hike down to the abandoned mountain dairy at Vormeli. [3-369] It lies at about 600 meters over sea level, and can well be combined with a round tour via the ruins of Gjertvassbøen along Utla. [3-370]

[3-371 |] Stately Vettismorki [3-372] Stately is the right word when it comes to Vettismorki - ranks of towering, grand, giant pines are worthy of far more southerly regions. [3-373] Several of the trees are up to 800 years old, and it is nigh unbelievable to find such lushness at well 700 meters above sea level. [3-374] In several places, the woods up here appear to be pure virgin forest, but looks deceive. [3-375] Through the years there has been some instances of full felling. [3-376] In the early 18th century, the copper mine at Gruvefjellet (west of Årdal) took out a lot of timber, and also in the 19th century, much was cut. [3-377] The timber was floated down over Vettisfossen in late winter. [3-378] Then at its foot, the waterfall had built a giant ice bank that could be up to 80 m high and cushioned the fall. [3-379] Until Årdal og Sunndal Verk began aluminum refining at Øvre Ådal, the woods had surging growth, and aside from the many large pines had many young pines. [3-380] The woods advanced particularly well from around 1930, due to better climate and reduced grazing. [3-381] Fluorine gas from Årdal has, however, severely damaged the woods. [3-382]

[3-383 |] Vettisfossen [3-384] After Mardalsfossen was regulated, Vettisfossen became the country's highest freefall waterfall. [3-385] If you choose to hike down the steep hills to Vetti, you also should allow yourself a side trip from the farm and over to Vettisfossen. [3-386] The view of the 275 meters that it falls free down in Utladalen qualifies for taking the breath of the most blasé. [3-387] With a bit of caution you can get all the way in under the waterfall. [3-388] The impression you get when you crane your head back to see the point where the water stream leaves the cliff, as you are enveloped in the haze of the falls, is also quite fantastic. [3-389] Think then that in some winters it all freezes to a continuous column that eager ice climbers have ascended. [3-390] If you choose to stay up at Vettismorki, you can anyway experience the waterfall in all its majesty. [3-391] There's a path over to a lookout platform, and if you lean over the edge of it, I can assure you that Vettisfossen seems quite overwhelming from the top as well. [3-392]

[3-393 |] Lengths [3-394] Turtagrø - Fannaråkhytta, 4 hours up, 3 hours down. [3-395] Fannaråken - Skogadalsbøen, 4 hours down, 5 hours up. [3-396 |] Sognefjellet - Skogadalsbøen, 5 hours [3-397 |] Turtagrø - Skogadalsbøen, 6 hours [3-398 |] Skogadalsbøen - Ingjerdbu, 5 hours [3-399 |] Ingjerdbu - Hjelle, 2 hours [3-400]

[3-401 |] Lodgings [3-402] Turtagrø, Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Skogadalsbøen, Ingjerdbu, Morkabu. [3-403]

[3-404 |] Public transportation [3-405] Bus service both to Øvre Årdal and to Turtagrø and Sognefjellet. [3-406] Road to Hjelle from Øvre Årdal. [3-407]

[3-408 |] Round tour in Sognefjellet [3-409 |] Hike 3b - 3 days - gg [3-410]

[3-411] This is a wide-ranging, fine little round tour that gives you a taste of glaciers, heights and lush Utladalen. [3-412]

[3-413 |] 1. Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta to Fannaråkhytta [3-414] There are marked routes from both tourist lodges to the edge of Fannaråkbreen. [3-415] The routes meet before Prestesteinsvatnet and run together to the glacier. [3-416] If you wish to cross the glacier, you either should have glacier skills and the requisite equipment or follow a guide. [3-417] There's daily guiding from early July to late August. [3-418] The guide lives at Fannaråken and picks up hikers at the lower glacier edge at 13.00. You should give notice the previous evening if you wish to have guiding to Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta. [3-419] The route over the glacier is steep in the beginning but then gentler. [3-420] There are both crevasses and water pools that can be covered by snow, so be watchful. [3-421] The route goes towards the steep east flank of Fannaråken, and it is somewhat slanted and steep toward the end before you get to the ridge and meet the route from Skogadalsbøen. [3-422] From Fannaråknosi up to the lodge there is a trail on a plateau with a splendid view. [3-423]

[3-424 |] 2. Fannaråkhytta to Skogadalsbøen [3-425] See Hike 3a. [3-426 |] 3. Skogadalsbøen to Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta [3-427] In the first few kilometers, the route goes through a thick birch forest, but after you have crossed the river on Storebrua, the forest ends. [3-428] The route passes the old summer dairy in Guridalen and continues up the valley on the west side of the river. [3-429] There also are bridges over Kongsdøla and Steindøla, and one kilometer after the latter, the trail forks. [3-430] The route to the left goes to Sognefjellhytta, and the one the right goes to Krossbu. [3-431] The distances to the lodges are about equally long, and the marking of the routes are good, so here just let your preference of lodge determine the route choice. [3-432]

[3-433 |] Lengths [3-434 |] Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta - Fannaråkhytta, 5 hours [3-435] Fannaråken - Skogadalsbøen, 4 hours down, 5 hours up. [3-436 |] Skogadalsbøen - Sognefjellhytta/Krossbu, hours [3-437]

[3-438 |] Lodgings [3-439] Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Fannaråkhytta, and Skogadalsbøen. [3-440]

[3-441 |] Public transportation [3-442] Road with bus service over Sognefjellet. [3-443]

[3-444 |] Around glaciers and peaks in West Jotunheimen [3-445]

[3-446] This is a really big tour that offers glacier hiking, high mountain passes, deep valleys and many options for side trips to Jotunheimen's major peaks. [3-447]

[3-448 |] 1. Leirvassbu to Olavsbu [3-449] We start with an easy, fine beginning of the round tour. [3-450] The route starts with a little climb up the ridge towards Høgvaglen. [3-451] After about a kilometer, the marking veers down off the ridge and passes on the east side, first of Øvre and then Nedre Høgvagltjørnene. [3-452] Here there's some talus, but the footing is easier after the trail turns southwards. [3-453] The stream from Nedre Høgvagltjønn can be crossed on stones or waded. [3-454] The lower lake in Semmeldalsmunnen as well as the next lake are passed on their east sides. [3-455] It's steep up to Raudalsbandet, and usually a snowdrift lies there. [3-456] If the drift is slippery, you can find a more gradual slope by keeping farther to the east. [3-457] Up on Raudalsbandet the view opens up again. [3-458] The ascents of both Skardalstind (see brochure 2) and Austre Raudalstind (see box) start from here. [3-459] From the col down to Olavsbu it's a gradual, fine downhill. [3-460 |] 2. Olavsbu to Fondsbu [3-461] From Olavsbu there are two routes westward towards Skogadalsbøen, and both are good alternatives for those who want a shorter round tour than that I recommend. [3-462] If you want an even longer round tour, you can instead walk out Raudalen to Gjendebu and continue weswards to Fondsbu. [3-463] I recommend, however, a variant in between, that is, that you walk to Fondsbu and then go over to Skogadalsbøen. [3-464] The day's stretch over to Fondsbu runs along t he feet of Mjølkedalstind, Sjogholstind, and Storegot, s o if you have energy to spare, in any case, the latter two are handy for side trips on the way. [3-465] Besides, the route to Fondsbu is relatively easy. [3-466] First through a little talus in terrain up to the gap north of Sjogholstind. [3-467] Then around the lake and through another gap, before it heads on towards Store Mjølkedalsvatnet. [3-468] Along the east shore of that lake, over yet another ridge and then downhill towards Fondsbu. [3-469]

[3-470 |] 3. Fondsbu to Skogadalsbøen [3-471] The next day's stretch is longer than the previous two, and there are several optional routes. [3-472] I recommend that you hike over Sløtafjellet and Uradalen; it's a varied and fine hike. [3-473] Here, as well, the day starts with an uphill; it's fine as a warm-up. [3-474] Kvitevatnet is passed in its west side. [3-475] An alternative route o Skogadalsbøen goes over Uranosbreen and Skogadalsbreen, and this route (that of course isn't on the map) starts along the east side of Kvitevatnet. [3-476] The hike requires glacier skills. [3-477] We continue towards Uradalsvatnet, and in the outlet where you should be prepared to wade a bit, as you must also to cross the river from Kvitevatnet. [3-478] The route continues along the west shore of Uradalsvatnet and then in a steady uphill towards the saddle to Uradalen itself. [3-479] There, to compensate, it more level onward, but the valley is aptly named, so you should reckon on walking over many stones, particularly toward the end where the trail crosses Storura. [3-480] From there, it's a steeper downhill and down to the lush Utladalen and on to Skogadalsbøen. [3-481]

[3-482 |] 4. Skogadalsbøen to Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta [3-483] See the description in Hike 3b. [3-484]

[3-485 |] 5. Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta to Leirvassbu over Smørstabbreen [3-486] Every morning at about 09.30in the summer season from early July to mid august, a guide starts from Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta to take hikers eastwards over Smørstabbreen. [3-487] At the same time, a guide starts from Leirvassbu and takes hikers westwards over the glacier. [3-488] You can book the hike at all three lodges the previous evening. [3-489] Following a guide across the glacier is a splendid alternative for more than those who lack glacier skills; neither is it particularly expensive. [3-490] The guide carries rope, crampons, and the relevant safety equipment. [3-491] The route goes up to 1800 meters above sea level and is demanding in poor weather, so be extra careful to take along proper windproof clothing, rainwear and warm garments. [3-492] From the west side, the hike goes up the glacier, usually on the north side of Bøverbreen, and then onwards south of Kalven and towards Storebjørn. [3-493] From there, it goes down the icefall down towards Sandelvbreen, aver it and then slightly up towards and then across Surtningsbreen. [3-494] This glacier is fairly steep, so here you should be particularly cautious when the snow is hard. [3-495] From the saddle between S urtningstind and Stetind, there's a trail westwards and down into Gravdalen. [3-496] For the last few kilometers to Leirvassbu, you can either walk the old haul road in the valley, or walk along a trail that runs more or less parallel with the road. [3-497]

[3-498 |] Hikes around Olavsbu [3-499] In addition to the hikes in brochure 2, mention should be made of a couple of other choice summits that are fine hike destinations around Olavsbu. [3-500] Mjølkedalstind is an obvious choice. [3-501] It was climbed as early as 1881 by William C. Slingsby and Johannes Vigdal, and they characterized it as one of Norway's most graceful peaks. [3-502] The summit is exposed, particularly the last part of the ridge, and the hike up the ridge is steep, but with caution it's a manageable hike for most mountain hikers. [3-503] The other peak that I will call your attention to is Austre Raudalstind. [3-504] It's most easily ascended from its north side. [3-505] Hence, you have to go up on Raudalsbandet and over Simledalsbandet and from there up on the ridge east of the summit before you head toward the summit cairn. [3-506]

[3-507 |] Many hikes around Leirvassbu [3-508] For those who want a summit tour in Jotunheimen, there's hardly a lodge that is so advantageously located for collecting two thousanders than Leirvassbu. [3-509] Around the lodge there's a myriad of peaks and ridges with options for traverses and climbing of all classes of climbing difficulty. [3-510] Here you need only take one of the good guide books that have recently been published, pack your rucksack and leg it. [3-511] The significant hike destinations are obvious. [3-512] Kyrkja's characteristic profile towers over Leirvassbu, and the hike to the summit is nigh obligatory for all who stay at the lodge. [3-513] The normal route goes up from the south, is fairly easy, though exposed. [3-514] The route first goes up a broad ridge that is covered by rough talus. [3-515] The uppermost hundred meters of the ridge are quite steep and narrow. [3-516] If you want to climb more, you need only choose, as here beckon Raudalstindar, Høgevagltindar, Visbretindar and Urdadalstindar - to name a few. [3-517] For glacier hikers, the selection is equally great. [3-518] Understandable, then, that DNT chose this lodge when it began to arrange so-called Alpine courses - both glacier hiking and climing at the same time - in the late 1980s. [3-519] Northward towards the Galdhøpiggmassivet there are several small, but challenging glaciers. [3-520] At Easter time it's a really festive tour to go from Leirvassbu via Visdalen, over several of these glaciers, and then around Galdhøpiggen through Porten and continue on to Juvasshytta. [3-521] The route formerly was marked with branches. [3-522] On the west side, it's first and foremost the Store Smørstabbreen that attracts glacier hikers. [3-523] Here go guides throughout summer. [3-524] It's a fine alternative for more than those who lack glacier skills and therefore must follow a guide. [3-525] Additionally, there are fish in Liervann and a stimulating geological trail down on Slethamn. [3-526] In otherwise, you don't need sun from a cloudless ski to find shining tours in the area around Leirvassbu. [3-527]

[3-528 |] To Langeskavltind from Fondsbu [3-529] In brochure 2 there are recommendations for day hikes around Fondsbu, but the map of the most splendid hike is covered only in this brochure, namely the hike to Langeskavltind. [3-530] It starts by following the marked rout towards Olavsbu to the place where it leaes the shore of Store Mjølkedalsvatnet at the foot of the mighty Storegut. [3-531] (By the way, this summit can you attain easiest from the rear side via Øvre Mjølkedalstjørnet.) [3-532] Continue around Store Mjølkedalsvatnet and up the icefall on Mjølkedalsbreen (you should be proficient on glaciers and have the relevant equipment). [3-533] Thereafter, both Langeskavltind and Uraknatten lie handy to go to. [3-534] Not to mention the big brother itself, Uranostind at 2157 meters. [3-535] On the homeward hike you can go over Langeskavlen, so you will have had a little round tour. [3-536] If you're not so ambitious or lack glacier skills, I recommend that you go around Mjølkedalsvatnet on the narrow tongue in the northwest and follow the river downward again towards Bygdin. [3-537]

[3-538 |] Lengths [3-539 |] Olavsbu - Leirvassbu, 4 hours [3-540 |] Olavsbu - Skogadalsbøen (through Skogadalen), 6 hours [3-541 |] Olavsbu - Skogadalsbøen (through Raudalen), 6 hours [3-542 |] Olavsbu - Fondsbu, 5 hours [3-543 |] Fondsbu - Skogadalsbøen, through Uradalen, 7 hours [3-544 |] Skogadalsbøen - Sognefjellhytta/Krossbu, 5 hours [3-545 |] Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta - Smørstabbreen - Leirvassbu, 6 hours [3-546]

[3-547 |] Lodgings [3-548] Leirvassbu, Olavsbu, Fondsbu, Skogadalsbøen, Krossbu, and Sognefjellhytta. [3-549]