Jusvasshytta Galdhøpiggen's Neighbor In 1874, 24 years after the first ascent, Knud O. Vole, a smallholder from Røisheim, started as a mountain guide at Galdhøpiggen. He quickly made a name for himself as a congenial and skillful escort. In order to reach the summit in the course of a day's outing from Røisheim in Bøverdalen, it was normally necessary to start out at 4 a.m., and the return home was often correspondingly as late. On his long, arduous trips to the top of Galdhøpiggen, Knud many times undoubtedly missed a place to spend the night along the way, and in September, 1884, he and his son Ole began construction of a stone shelter at Juvvatnet. The construction on one of Jotunheimen's most exposed building sites 1840 meters above sea level must have been a rough experience. Each evening, for example, Knud and Ole had to go all the way down to Raubergstulen at approximately 1000 meters above sea level in order to spend the night! The result, however, was satisfactory, and the stone shelter at Juvvatnet rapidly became popular. During the summer of 1885, 80 people visited the shelter, and traffic to the hut steadily increased. The five beds in the first hut proved insufficient, and Knud expanded the shelter several times. A son, Knut K., and his wife Rønnhaug continued expansion when they took over responsibility in 1914. They expanded Juvasshytta several times, built a path to Juvvatnet, and installed electricity and a telephone. In 1956, their daughters Ragnhild and Tora took the helm. During their time, much was built at Juvasshytta, most recently in 1994. Because of all of the expansions up through the years, the building has become rather elongated and strange in appearance from the outside, but on the inside, the various periods blend perfectly into one another. The fact that hikers enjoy themselves here is not hard to understand. It has become a popular sport to visit Galdhøpiggen; the Juvasshytta's glacier guides often escort from 200-300 people to the summit on a good day during peak season, and very many of them want to spend the night at Juvasshytta. But Galdhøpiggen is far from the only reason to visit the lodge at Juvvatnet. During the summertime, many take the trip up from the valley in order to try out their skis on the Veslegjuv glacier a little over one kilometer from Juvasshytta. Access Car road to the lodge and bus connections. Marked hiking routes to Spiterstulen, Raubergstulen/Roisheim and Elveseter. Facts Juvasshytta has been host to tourists since 1884. Owner: Ragnhild Vole. The Lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1840 above sea level, and has 85 beds. Tel: 61 21 15 50. Web: http://ditt.net/juvasshytta Spiterstulen The largest tourist lodge A lodge between majestic Galdhøpiggen and Glittertind is necessarily influenced by its surroundings. The same is true of Spiterstulen. What was once a simple, small mountain pasture has today grown to become Jotunheimen's largest and most popular tourist lodge. During the period of one year, the 230 beds at Spiterstulen accommodate more than 25 000 guests. And traffic here has existed for a long time; already before Jotunheimen was «discovered» by students Keilhau and Boeck in 1820, there was travel through Visdalen by people on their way between Gudbrandsdalen and Valdres, and it was quite normal for many of those making the trek through Jotunheimen to ask for overnight accommodations at Spiterstulen. Eventually, however, people came by who were traveling more for their own pleasure than because they had to. The first tourist who reported from Visdalen in 1823 wrote that he «was well cared for at this mountain pasture». Steinar Sulheim, the owner at the time, saw the opportunities, and in 1836 he erected an extension to accommodate travelers and hunters. Fortunately, expansion has been done sensibly. It is regrettably easy to build on a grand scale in a manner that results in the buildings' appearing out of harmony with the terrain. At Spiterstulen, builders have managed to preserve the mountain farm style. The aforementioned Sulheim was among the three who were first to climb Galdhøpiggen, and the interest in Norway's highest peak came to mean a great deal for the influx of people to Spiterstulen. However, it would be wrong to attribute the honor for Spiterstulen's success only to Galdhøpiggen. The location is unique in other ways, as well. Glittertind, at 2464 meters, lies temptingly nearby, and 16 of Norway's other peaks over 2300 meters may be reached on day trips from Spiterstulen. Here, there are sufficient challenges for those who crave heights. Spiterstulen has also been important for the development of glacier climbing in this country. Many prospective glacier wanderers have received their initial experience on Svellnosbreen, the large glacier beneath Galdhøpiggen's southern wall. Since 1949, guides from Spiterstulen have accompanied thousands of tourists into the craggy glacial crevices. But you do not need to be interested in alpine adventures in order to enjoy Spiterstulen. If you are interested in seeing how our forefathers made use of the mountain resources, there are pits and hunting facilities both next to the trail over to Glitterheim and underneath Spiterhø. Farther inside the valley, at Hellstuguåa, there are building sites from the 1100's, probably with the remains of «sælehus», accommodations for travelers of the time. Access Car road to the lodge and bus connections. Marked hiking routes to Glitterheim, Juvasshytta, Leirvassbu and Gjendebu. Facts Spiterstulen has hosted tourists since the 1830's. Owners: Charlotte and Eiliv Sulheim. The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1100 meters above sea level and has approx. 230 beds. Tel.: 61 21 14 80. Web: www.spiterstulen.no Sognefjellhytta Summer skiing and Glacier Excursions Throughout the ages, the trip over Sognefjellet has cost many wayfarers their lives. During the years of hardship from 1812 to 1813, six dalesmen were among those who froze to death on the road over to Sogn while on their way to get grain. Today a like number of stone markers commemorate the tragedy. Henrik Wergeland was undoubtedly also appalled by this road, because after having traversed the mountain in 1832, he characterized Sognefjell in these terms: «Here stretches the Lom and Sogn residents' ghastly road to the beyond across the alpine desert of Sognefjell.» It is not difficult to understand, therefore, that there was a strong desire in both Lom and Skjolden for a better road across the mountain, but money for a road project of this magnitude was lacking for a long time. As a pure relief project, it was begun, then, in the mid-1930. 200 young people with shovels, prying levers, hoes and wheelbarrows toiled and labored during long summer months. In the course of only a couple of years, the 20-klometer long mountain road was completed in an impressive manner. Two of the log cabins that were used during the project were first put to use as a cafe just after the war. In 1947, Torkjell Bakkeberg was able to open his tourist lodge at Sognefjellet as an overnight accommodation for travelers and mountain trekkers. During the wintertime, the Sognefjell road is usually not plowed farther than to the Jotunheimen Fjellstue on the eastern side and to Turtagrø on the western side, but in April/May, the road is open for automobile traffic. There are scarcely better conditions in Norway for those who want to reach high mountain altitudes in a simple way, and usually it is possible to ski in the area around the tourist lodge all summer long. Many national ski teams and sports clubs have discovered this and locate their summer meets at Sognefjellet. If you have considered a hike or a walk on top of a glacier, Sognefjellhytta is not a bad place to visit, either. Both Smørstabbtinder and Fannaråken are natural destinations from here for hikers. There are daily guided excursions across Fannaråk glacier and Smørstabb glacier. Access The Sognefjell road goes past the lodge, with scheduled bus stops. There are marked hiking trails to Nørstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (w/glacier guiding), Skogadalsbøen and Fannaråken (w/glacier guiding). Facts: Sognefjellhytta was opened in 1947. Owner: Råmund Mundhjeld. The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1415 above sea level, and has 90 beds. Tel: 61 21 29 34. E-mail: sognefjellet@sensewave.com Web: www.sognefjellet.com Krossbu Tourist Facility From Wayside Inn to Glacier Center The Sognefjell road between the farms uppermost in Bøverdalen and Fortun on the other side of the mountain is a little over 30 kilometers long. This was sometimes a bit too far for many to walk in one day, especially in inclement weather. When Krossboden, or Krosshø Hotel, as it was called in the tourist handbooks of the time, was finished in 1902, it was a welcome opportunity for wayfarers. This can be confirmed simply by perusing the first guest book, which contains many words of praise for good service and a pleasant stay. It was Nils T. Bakkeberg who was responsible for the construction. He later became renowned as a certified mountain guide for DNT in addition to his job as a host for tourists. Like many other tourist hosts of the time, he found that his lodge was too small. In 1914, therefore, an annex was added. It was later dubbed Nilsestugu and today houses, among other things, a self-service facility that can be used when the main lodge is closed. In conjunction with the Sognefjell road being opened in 1938 for automobile traffic, yet another new building was raised, and in 1974 the present day's main building took shape. Even though the lodge was first erected with wayfarers in mind, it was rapidly discovered that it offered new opportunities for hiking tourists. Smørstabb glacier quickly became a popular destination, and may hire a guide to take them from Krossbu, up Leirbreen or Bøverbreen, past Kalven, Storebjørn and Surtningstind to Leirvassbu. Guided glacier excursions are still very popular. On good days, groups of 30-40 people set out from the lodge to follow their guide to Leirvassbu. In season, there are guided excursions both ways daily. Many, however, want to learn more about glacier walking without a guide, and DNT's glacier course at Krossbu is very popular. Here the participants learn, among other things, how to use rope and safety equipment in order to move safely on blue ice and snowy surfaces. On the closing excursion for these courses, a trip across the glacier to one of the mountaintops is the usual agenda. Within reach on a one-day outing from Krossbu, there are 23 summits that are higher than 2000 meters, so there is enough from which to choose. Access Sognefjell road goes past the lodge, with scheduled bus stops. There are marked hiking trails to Nørstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (w/glacier guiding), Skogadalsbøen and Fannaråken (w/glacier guiding). Facts Krossbu Tourist Facility began operating in 1902. Owners: Torill and Kåre Vole. Krossbu Tourist Facility is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1260 meters above sea level and has 85 beds. Tel.: 61 21 29 22. Stølsdalen Grand Gateway If you stand on the road down to Skålevatn, you will see the reflected light from the windows at Stølsdalen on the hillside nearby, but if you start walking, you will find the truth fully confirmed that a straight line is seldom the shortest way in the mountains. Both the lake and a series of low cliffs effectively stop all attempts at a straight course; instead, you will go up and down, left and right - and downwards again. A couple of hours later, you will have put behind you just under four kilometers as the crow flies and you will be able to take a breather against the stone wall at Stølsdalen. Up until 1991, the summer mountain barn here basked in sunny tranquility after the Ormelid farm down in Fortundalen had stopped sending livestock to summer pasture. The tourist association, however, had been looking for possible overnight accommodations in this area in order to divide up the long route between Turtagrø and Nørdstedalseter. Rather than build new accommodations, it seemed a good solution to restore something that already stood on the finest site in the valley. So the sheep moved out and the tourists moved in, literally. The restoration was a comprehensive task that began with shoveling out the sheep droppings from the stone barn and removing the majority of the old walls. The fact that the building contractor was able to build a new building in the old style can be easily seen by everyone who takes the trip here. The result, at any rate, is an unusually pleasant lodge, a grand gateway to Breheimen. The path onward across Liabrekulen to Nørdstedalseter passes the 1800-meter mark by a wide margin, and from the summit there is a fantastic panorama toward both Jotunheimen and Breheimen. Stølsdalen may be reached, however, from several directions other than from Skålevatn; by far most people come along the marked route from the long-established Turtagrø Hotel on the Sognefjell road. For those who are not afraid of uphill climbs, I can recommend the trip down from Fortundalen - it goes from a valley bottom so lush and warm that tobacco was grown here during the last war - up the hillside through several climatic zones to barren alpine heights, and then slightly downward again to peaceful Stølsdalen. Access There are marked hiking trails to Turtagrø, Fortundalen, Nørdstedalseter and Herva at Skålavatnet. Facts: Stølsdalen was built in 1991 and is run as a self-service lodge. Owners: DNT OA. Located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 1040 meters above sea level and has 8 beds. Tel.: None. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Nørdstedalseter Centrally located in Breheimen Norway's longest fjord is Sognefjorden. Innermost in it, you will find Skjolden and Fortun, and high above in Fortundalen lies the staffed lodge of Nørdstedalseter. For those who hike from Jotunheimen to Breheimen, this lodge is practically a mandatory place to visit. It has been so ever since the first cabin with four beds was built with contributions from DNT in 1889. It was privately owned for a long time, but in 1928 it was taken over by the tourist association. Not many years went by before the cabin had to be expanded, and later, DNT's first staffed lodge at Breheimen was modernized many times. Much has occurred in the areas surrounding Nørdstedalseter. For pioneers, the crossing of the Fortundal river just below the lodge was a risky business. Many chose instead the slightly more than one-day trek required to descend the steep valley hillside and out to Skjolden, spending the night there, and then climbing up into the mountains again via Mørkrisdalen, rather than going directly westward from Nørdstedalseter. Today there is a bridge across the river and a drivable road to the tourist lodge, and the hike westward to Arentzbu along the stone-marked route is estimated at just less than seven hours. The road up the Fortundalen was built in conjunction with the expansion of power facilities at the beginning of the 1960's. At the time, it was necessary to build an access road into the power station at Fivlemyrane. To drive this road into the mountains today is an adventure in itself. If it is not Norway's steepest automobile road to a tourist facility, it cannot be far off mark, and the road runs through a fantastic landscape of waterfalls. Compared with the mountain paths up through the valley in old times, including the steep Kleppe gorge, today's route is pure pleasure, despite its being somewhat narrow and winding. In spite of the road, the majority of guests seeking overnight accommodations arrive on foot at Nørdstedalseter; from the list below, you will see that there are many routes from which to choose. Hiking opportunities around Nørdstedalseter are ample. Liabrekulen, Vetledalen and the beautiful Grøne Lake, Holåtindane, Harbard and Sveidal glaciers are realistic day trips. Access: There is an automobile road to the lodge and marked hiking trails to Arentzbu, Sota Sæter, Trulsbu, Bøvertun, Krossby, Sognefjellhytta and Stølsdalen. Facts: Nørdstedalseter was built in 1889. Owner: DNT OA. Manager: Torill Bruaas. The lodge is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 935 m. above sea level, and has 40 beds, as well as 4 beds in the self-service section, which can be used whenever the rest of the lodge is closed. Tel.: 95 07 63 82. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Trulsbu The Link Medalsbu uppermost in Middalen was never a success for DNT. It was built in 1938 and abandoned in 1957. A stay at 1346 meters above sea level in this area of Breheimen clearly did not interest many people, and today only the ruins of the cabin remain. The concept behind the cabin, however, was sound. Besides its location in the midst of an excellent hiking area, it was conceived as a means of breaking up the long trip from Skjåk, via Lundadalen, to Nørdstedalseter, into two manageable day-long treks. This is an old road between Vestland and Østland that should be experienced by more people. But Medalsbu was probably too near Nørdstedalseter and too far way from Skjåk to serve as an appropriate overnight spot for the trip. When DNT again revived these plans in the 1980's, it was therefore natural to seek a site a bit closer to Skjåk, down in Lundadalen. It was impossible, however, to find a building site that was safe from avalanches, so that Vesledalen, a little closer to Lundadalsbandet, was chosen instead. In 1988, a self-service lodging was completed, safely situated at the foot of stately Vesledalstinden. The name Trulsbu, given to the lodge in honor of Truls Kierulf, who worked actively to create a closer association between the tourist facilities in Norway and to link Skjåk and Luster together with a cabin facility, is therefore a fine tribute to him. Trulsbu has rapidly become considerably more popular than its predecessor. Especially during late spring, there are many who visit the lodge after completing the classic trek over Lomseggen and Hestbrepiggane. In good weather and with proper ground conditions, it is possible to cover at least eight different summits of more than 2000 meters in altitude during the course of a long day's trek from Lom to Trulsbu. The Holåtindane peaks on the southern side also attract many tourists in both spring and summer. Tussetind is especially impressive. It was named for the mountain-climbing pioneer Therese Berteau. Besides this, there are two other peaks in the Holåtindane range that should tempt hikers of today, and a detour northward to the 2085-meter tall Hestdalshøgdi is reachable on a day trip from Trulsbu. Access: There are marked hiking trails to Sota Sæter, Skjåk and Nørdstedalseter. Facts: Trulsbu was built in 1988 and is run as a self-service cabin. Owner: DNT OA. The cabin is located in Skjåk municipality in Oppland 1290 m. above sea level and has 12 beds. Tel.: None. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Jotunheimen fjellstue Access The Sognefjell road passes the lodge, and there are regularly scheduled bus stops. Facts The lodge was opened in 1946. Owners: Åse Wiker, Gøril Wiker, Arne Magnus and Petter Gudmundahl. The mountain lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 50 beds. Tel.: 61 21 29 18. E-mail: info@jotunheimen-fjellstue.no Web: www.jotunheimen-fjellstue.no Røisheim Access The Sognfjell road passes the lodge, and there are regularly scheduled bus stops. From Røisheim there is an old hiking trail to Juvasshytta. Facts The facility began to host tourists in 1858. Owner: Røisheim Eiendom AS. Hosts: Ingrid and Haavard Lunde. The estate is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 540 meters above sea level, and has 48 beds. Tel.: 61 21 20 31. Web: www.roisheim.no E-mail:r-drif-a@online.no Leirvassbu See description in pamphlet 3 Access There is an automobile road to the lodge. Facts Leirvassbu was built as a stone cabin in 1875 by DNT. The first tourist lodge was completed in 1906. Owner: Åmund Elveseter. Managers: Magny Hilde and Bjørn Bjørgen. The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1405 meters above sea level, and has 190 beds. Tel.: 61 21 29 32. Email: lvassbu@online Bøvertun fjellstugu Access The Sognefjell road passes the lodge, and there are regularly scheduled bus stops. There are marked hiking trails to Nørdstedalseter, Sognefjellhytta and Krossbu. Facts The lodge was opened in 1864. Owners: Kjellfrid and Johan Engen. The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 950 meters above sea level, and has 76 beds. Tel.: 61 21 29 24. Web: http//home.sol.no/~bovertun Raubergstulen turisthytte Access There is an automobile road and regular bus service to the lodge and old hiking trails to the lodge from Røisheim and Juvasshytta. Facts The facility began to host tourists about 1950. Owner: Borgny and Magnar Mundhjeld. It is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 185 beds. Tel.: 61 21 12 93. E-mail: rauberg@online.no Fannaråken See description in pamphlet 3 Access There are marked hiking trails to Turtagrø, Sognefjellet and Skogadalsbøen. Facts Fannaråkhytta has been host to tourists since 1926. Owner: DNT OA. The lodge is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 2068 meters above sea level, and has 36 beds. Tel.: 941 35 993. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Elveseter hotell Access The Sognfjell road passes by the lodge, and there are regularly scheduled bus stops. There are marked hiking trails from Juvasshytta. Facts The facility has hosted tourists since about 1880. Owner: The Elveseter family. Manager: Rogne Elveseter. It is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 670 meters above sea level, and has 240 beds. Tel.: 61 21 20 00. Web: www.elveseterhotell.no Turtagrø Klatrernes hotell Access The Sognefjell road goes past the hotel. There are marked hiking trails to Fannaråken, Skagastølsbu and Stølsdalen. The road over Sognefjellet is closed during the winter, but it is normally snow-plowed up to Turtagrø. Facts Turtagrø was built in 1888. The hotel is owned and operated by Ole Berge Drægni. The hotel is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 884 meters above sea level, and has 80 beds. Tel.: 57 68 61 16. E-mail: turtagro@online.no Web: www.skjolden.com/bylus/turtagro.html Choose Your Trip According to Appetite Setting up an appropriate hiking trip is in many ways like composing a successful dinner menu. It is wise to begin with a little appetizer to prepare the body for the main course, and it is always good to have a dessert, as a kind of reward for having completed the task. In choosing the trip proposals in these pamphlets, I have tried to keep this in mind. The trips need to be varied and have some peak moments in more than the literal sense along the way. Hopefully, I have succeeded. In any event, there is enough from which to choose, whether one prefers several appetizers, copious main courses or tempting desserts. The various trip menus are designed so that you can do them in the opposite direction, or combine parts of different menus to make your own version. In terms of the details in the trip menus, the length of the suggested legs is given in hours. For novices in the mountains, this may seem a little strange. But that is how things are in the Norwegian mountains, as well. The terrain is so diverse that meters and kilometers become misleading. It makes no sense to compare a thousand meters of steep, rocky hillside in Jotunheimen with a one-kilometer stroll through Frogner Park. The time that an average hiker can expect to spend is much more informative for the majority of us. The number of hours and an overview of the marked trails are also indicated on the map in the back of the pamphlet. As you read the various trip proposals, you should have one finger on the map. The description of the route will be much more informative if you do so. If you want to learn more about an area you want to explore, you should become a member of DNT and get hold of On Foot in Norway. All of the marked routes are described here, and the book also contains much information about Jotunheimen and other mountain areas. Before you get started choosing your tour menu, there's just one more thing: Remember that it is fine to eat your fill, but uncomfortable when you overeat. Degree of difficulty of the trips g = EASY gg = AVERAGE ggg = STRENUOUS To the Summit of Galdhøpiggen from Spiterstulen Trip 4a - 1 day - gg - Guide available In 1884, Professor B. M. Keilhau, «The discoverer of Jotunheimen», and some students were based at Spiterstulen. They made an attempt at climbing Galdhøpiggen, but had to turn back short of the top, later called Keilhaus' Summit. The first ascent occurred in 1850, and it was three men from Bøverdalen who achieved the feat. These were the manager of Spiterstulen, Steinar Sulheim, and two teachers from Bøverdalen, J. Arnesen and J. Flåten. Already in 1855, the first tourist, Axel Arbo, reached the summit, and many others wanted to try their skill. For many years there were guides to «Piggen» out of Spiterstulen, but today it is not usual to have a guide along this stretch. On the other hand, Spiterstulen has guided glacier trips on the Svellnosbreen glacier, see Trip 4c. One of the routes used by the guides is to hike up the entire surface of the glacier and then continue up into the gorge between Keilhaus' Summit and Galdhøpiggen. From there, it is only a short trip to the summit of «Piggen». The return trip is down via the usual route to Spiterstulen. 1. Spiterstulen to Galdhøpiggen The normal route to Galdhøpiggen from Spiterstulen runs right up the valley flank. After crossing Visa by bridge, you very quickly begin the ascent to the summit. The route goes first up along Piggrovi, and after a little less than a kilometer, there is a fork for the trail to Juvasshytta. From Svellnoså, the route is partially through rocky terrain and glacial snow cover up to the top of Keilhaus' Summit. Crevices may be encountered, so follow the markings carefully. From the plateau there is a slight descent before you begin climbing the last incline up toward Norway's tallest peak. The Lodges on Galdhøpiggen Except for a period of five years from 1970 to 1975, there have been buildings on Galdhøpiggen ever since 1888. Knud O. Vole built the first at Juvasshytta. In 1925, Lars Sulheim of Spiterstulen then put up a log cabin, Steinarstugu, on the summit. Knut K. Vole later built a new cabin in 1926. For a time during the 1950's, Steinarstugu was staffed and was also awarded status as a «Postal house», with its own postmark. In 1960, even the people who operated Volehytta began serving meals to tourists. Failure came abruptly for both, however: Palm Sunday 1961, Steinarstugu was blown away by gales; debris was found as far away as Smiugjelet east of Visdalen! In 1970, winter gales took Volehytta. In 1975, a new cabin of glass and stone was completed, designed by Torbjørn Fjeldstad. The builders at that time were Ragnhild and Tora Vole. Facts Length Spiterstulen - Galdhøpiggen, 4 hrs. up, 2 hrs. down. Overnight Accommodations Spiterstulen Communications There is an automobile road and bus route to Spiterstulen. To the Summit of Galdhøpiggen from Juvasshytta Trip 4b - 1 day - g - Guide available 1. Juvasshytta to Galdhøpiggen The first ascent of Galdhøpiggen started from Spiterstulen, but the guide from Røisheim, Ole Røisheim, quickly found a direct route to the summit from down at his location, and many hired him to guide them to the top. The route from Røisheim is marked still today, but it has been used very little after a trail to Juvasshytta was established. The route goes up the hillside from Røisheim, past Raubergstulen and Juvasshytta to Galdhøpiggen, taking about 8 hrs. It is absolutely advisable to try the pioneer's route; remember that before Juvasshytta was built in 1884, tourists had to climb both up and down again in only one day! After Juvasshytta was opened and a road was eventually built, increasingly more climbers began their trips to Galdhøpiggen from that side. Since Juvasshytta was located more than 700 meters higher than Spiterstulen, the choice was understandable. Most people going to Galdhøpiggen today choose to follow a guide from Juvasshytta to the summit. During the summer season, guided trips run daily at 10 a.m. and 11:30 a.m., and occasional extra trips are also arranged. Register at Juvasshytta. The route to Norway's tallest mountain goes across Juvflya and inward on the Stygge glacier. There are many crevices here, and they are often hidden by snow cover. If you do not have a guide with you, you it is important that you are an experienced glacier hiker and that you have the necessary safety equipment. The route continues up toward Galdhøpiggen's northern branch and the steep ascent up the crest to the top. At the summit, there is a little cafeteria. Most climbers who follow a guide to the top make the return trip via the same route, but it is possible to make the descent from the top down to Spiterstulen along the marked route across Keilhaus' Summit, see Trip 4a. A Highlight Knud Vole was both the founder of Juvashytta and a legendary mountain guide at Galdhøpiggen. In his day, it was considered quite a feat to reach the top and it was duly celebrated, both on the top of Piggen itself and upon one's safe return to Juvasshytta in the evening. The following is an interesting account from a large climbing party 21 July 1898: «?we had frightful weather, but our mood improved nonetheless, especially with the help of 2 ½ bottles of champagne, 2 bottles of port wine and 1 bottle of sherry, as well as the performing talents of certain members of the group.» Perhaps it is wise to save most of the celebrating until after one is back at Juvasshytta? Facts Length Juvasshytta - Galdhøpiggen, 3 hrs. up, 2 hrs. down. Overnight Accommodations Juvasshytta and Raubergstulen. Communications Automobile and bus route to Juvasshytta. Trip Across the Glacier Trip 4c - 4-5 days - gg - Guide available You can do a lot of glacier hiking in Jotunheimen without having to complete a glacier hiking course. There are guides to several of the glaciers, and a combination of several of them is a true string of pearls. 1. Spiterstulen to Leirvassbu You really should have a little experience with glacier hiking before making this trip, which will take you across several glaciers. It is very popular to hike on the blue ice of Svellnosbreen, and it is a good idea to set aside a day to go with Spiterstulen's mountain guides for such a trip (see box). The hike to Leirvassbu is also a fine experience. Many people call the walk through Visdalen Jotunheimen's "charm zone", and with good reason. The valley is wide and beautiful, the path is good, and there are soaring peaks on both sides. After going a kilometer, you will see the remains of the first Spiterstulen, beneath Styggehø, on the other side of the river. Across Hellstuguåa there is a bridge, and after a couple of kilometers, the trail from Leivassbu divides off from the one to Gjendebu. You must keep to the right. Further inside the valley, you eventually pass the river from Semelholtjønnet, and you have to cross the upper portion of Visa; both of these are easy to cross by stepping from stone to stone. Up on Kyrkjeglupen, there is some difficult rocky terrain, but it is not hard to follow the marking that goes along the northern side of Kyrkjetjørna and four other small lakes. Eventually Leirvassbu comes into view on the other side of Leirvatnet, and you are soon there. 2. Leirvassbu to Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta Every morning at about 9:30 a.m. during the summer season from the beginning of July until mid-August, a guide sets out from Leirvassbu taking tourists west across Smørstabbreen. At the same time, a guide starts out from Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta taking tourists east across the glacier. You may register for the trip at all three lodges the evening before. Following a guide across the glacier is a good alternative for hikers other than those lacking glacier hiking experience, and it is not very expensive, either. The guide has rope, crampons and necessary safety equipment. The route goes up to 1800 meters above sea level and is challenging in poor weather, so be extra particular about bringing proper wind clothing, rain wear and warm garments. For the first kilometers from Leirvassbu to the gorge, you can either hike the old service road in the valley or along a path that runs more or less parallel with the road. After that, you climb uphill toward the gorge between Stetind and Surtningstind. The route first crosses the steep Surtningsbreen, which may be slippery and difficult when the snow is hard. After that, you head down over Sandelvbrean and then upward over the glacier beneath Storebjørn; be careful, there are usually a number of crevices here. The route then continues northwest across the glacier situated a little to the west of Kalven, before it begins to go downward again. The descent on the western side is usually done on the northern side of Bøverbreen glacier. Once you have come down off the glacier, you will have to choose whether you will spend the night at Krossbu or at Sognefjellhytta. The distance is a little longer to the latter, if you hike over the glacier in this direction. 3. Sognefjellhytta or Krossbu to Fannaråkhytta There is a marked route from both tourist lodges to the edge of Fannaråk glacier. The routes converge before Prestesteinsvatnet and run together to the glacier. If you plan to cross the glacier, you will have to have experience hiking on glaciers and the necessary equipment, or go with a guide. There are daily guided glacier hikes from the beginning of July to the end of August. The guide stays at Fannaråken and meets tourists at the lower edge of the glacier at 1 p.m. You will have to provide information as to whether you want guiding to Krossbu or to Sognefjellhytta the evening before. The route across the glacier is steep in the beginning, but gradually slackens off. There are both crevices and water holes that may be covered with snow, so beware. The route goes toward the steep eastern incline of Fannaråken, and it is somewhat sloping and steep toward the end, before you get to the mountain ridge and merge onto the route from Skogadalsbøen. From Fannaråknosi and as far as the lodge, there is a path on a plateau offering a fine panorama. 4. Fannaråkhytta to Turtagrø If the view is good from Fannaråken, a late evening may be spent and an outing at such a place may be enjoyable; the area abounds in natural mountain nature to be enjoyed on the entire surrounding horizon. Not much effort is required; the trip to Turtagrø is unusually easy. It runs gracefully down the ridge on the western side of Fannaråken; there is a lot of rocky terrain, but the path is good. After passing Ekrehytta, it continues down into Helgedalen. Here, a relatively newly built farm road has been built, and it is easy to follow all the way out to the cabins some distance out in the valley. From there, you leave the road and follow the path for another kilometer around the curve and to Turtagrø. Unfortunately, Turtagrø Hotel burned in January 2001. Therefore, spending the night there will be a little makeshift in the immediate future, while a new building is being built. Inquire about the conditions in advance by contacting DNT or the hotel directly. Svellnosbreen Glacier and Other Splendors There are a host of day trip opportunities around Spiterstulen; among the most popular is without a doubt Svellnosbreen glacier. Many mountain hikers gained their first glacier-hiking experience on this glacier, which is located under the southern wall of Galdhøpiggen. Since 1949, guides at Spiterstulen have led thousands of tourists on this craggy glacial surface. Tourists bound together by guide ropes and equipped with crampons have followed guides deep into the crevices. Glacier hiking alternates with excursions into deep, dark caves beneath the glacier, with meter-long, thick icicles, icy columns and spires jutting up into the daylight. The ice formations have been dubbed Kjellargluggen, Soria Moria Castle, Halli, The Labyrinth, The Cheerful Corner, the Pearly Gates, etc. Trips to this "Icy Adventure land" have undoubtedly been responsible for the upsurge in interest for glacier sports in Norway. Length Spiterstulen - Leirvassbu, 5 hrs. Leirvassbu - Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta, 6 hrs. Sognefjellhytta or Krossbu - Fannaråkhytta, 5 hrs. Fannaråkhytta - Turtagrø, 3 hrs. down, 4 hrs. up. Overnight Accommodations Spiterstulen, Leirvassbu, Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Fannaråkhytta and Turtagrø. The latter is unconfirmed as of March 2001. Communications There is an automobile road and bus routes to all of the lodges except Fannaråkhytta. A Taste of Breheimen Trip 4d - 2-3 days - gg-ggg The area northwest of Jotunheimen bears the name Breheimen. The terrain is not much different in either of the mountain regions: glaciers and mountains dominate in both places, but they also offer deep, lush valleys and great contrasts. I have designed a couple of trips north of the Sognefjell road that should provide a suitable impression of the natural surroundings in Breheimen, and that begin with a round trip between the three staffed lodges. 1. Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta to Nørdstedalseter This is the longest leg of the round trip, and many people undoubtedly think that 8 hours' walking time is overdoing things. It is possible, however, to make the leg somewhat shorter. About three kilometers west of Sognefjellhytta, there is in fact an old service road in to Storevatnet. It is perfectly drivable and open. You may drive to the end of the road, park your car and return to this point after you have completed your round trip via Bøvertun. In this way, you save yourself a couple hours' hiking to Nørdstedalseter. Those who do not have a car can ask the hosts at Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta to drive them up. The usual routes from Krossbu and Sognefjellhytta, incidentally, converge west of Krosshø. After about one kilometer, there is a new fork in the road for the route to Bøvertun. The trail runs through some nooks and crannies here and there, but this is unavoidable, because there are so many escarpments and cross-valleys in this area. The path descends to the dam at the south end of Storevatnet and crosses it, and then there are several nooks and crannies to pass in order to get around Kjerringhetta. After that, the course bears to the north and upward over a relatively steep ridge, usually across some snowy surfaces and then slackening off down to the fork on the trail toward Bøvertun. You bear west and go down toward Liabrevatnet, which you pass on the north side at the outlet. The stream from the lake must often be waded across. The route goes uphill again and over yet another ridge. Fortunately, you can look forward to a gorgeous view out over Liabreen and Liabrevatnet. But then it is downhill for the rest of the trip, first past upper Grønevatnet on the western side and then lower Grønevatnet on the northern side. From then on, the route continues along an easy path through Vetledalen to Nørdstedalseter. 2. Nørdstedalseter to Bøvertun Each downhill meter that you put behind you at the end of the trip from Sognefjellet will have to be done uphill again before you get to Bøvertun. At the summit of Tverrbyttfjellet, the trail forks, and for Bøvertun, you bear to the left. The path soon begins a steep descent past the northern end of Storevatn. After that, the terrain is a little hilly before once again plunging steeply down to Bøvertun, located in the lush greenery on the southern end of a lovely lake. 3. Bøvertun to Krossbu/ Sognefjellhytta Bøvertun is located on the Sognefjell road, and of course it is possible to end the trip here, but I recommend that you go on foot back to your point of departure, since you will be able to visit beautiful Dummdalen and its special grottos (see box). The trip starts from the main road about 500 meters south of the lodge. You follow Dummdalen to Svarttjørna. Farther south, the route runs through hilly terrain as far as the fork in the road for Sognefjellet and Nørdstedalseter. If you parked your car at Storevatnet, you should take the path to the right; if you are headed to the lodges on Sognefjell road, you choose the route to the left. After a little less than a kilometer, the route divides again, Krossbu to the left, Sognefjellhytta to the right. The Dummdalen Grottos At the deepest point in Dummdalen is Southern Norway's largest system of grottos. They were formed by the river eroding and drilling into the limy ground for thousands of years. So far, six of the grottos have been marked, and the largest is more than 250 meters long. The first one is located just next to the Sognefjell road. The entrances are generally very narrow, and there is also the risk of falling rocks from the roof, so be careful! Guided trips to the grottos are offered. Information is provided by the Jotunheimen Tourist Association in Lom. Length Krossbu and Sognefjellhytta - Nørdstedalseter, 8 hrs. Bøvertun - Nørdstedalseter, 6 hrs. Bøvertun - Krossbu and Sognefjellhytta, 5 hrs. Overnight Accommodations Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Nørdstedalseter and Bøvertun. Communications Automobile road and regularly scheduled bus stops along Sognefjell road. Automobile road to Nørdstedalseter. The Main Road to Breheimen Trip 4e - 3-4 days - gg-ggg Not to detract from any of the other routes through Jotunheimen and Breheimen, I would maintain that the finest gateway goes from Turtagrø and across Liabrekulen to Nørdstedalseter. The trip across the 1800-meter high glacier is magnificent. Once the Stølsdalen self-service lodge was in place, the distance between the lodges is not so great, either. This map covers only as far as Nørdstedalseter and Trulsbu, but the trip in the Breheimen mountains definitely doesn't need to end there. Both to the west and to the north in Breheimen, there are marked trails and lodges, so get additional maps and become acquainted with this spectacular area, too. 1.Turtagrø to Stølsdalen Turtagrø burned in January 2001, so that if you plan to spend the night there, you should check the situation in advance. Fortunately, the first leg of the trip is short enough to be covered even if you begin relatively late in the day. The route starts up a steep slope just below Turtagrø and goes up to a waste rock dump before you continue on to Gjesingedalen. The river through the valley is not usually a problem to cross by stepping from stone to stone. After Skålabotnskaret, you come down to the abandoned Skålabotn pasture. From here, the terrain is quite difficult and steep, so you should carefully follow the markings. The river on the valley floor can also be crossed by stepping from stone to stone. Then the course runs uphill again along the old cow path to the lodge. Be aware of the fact that you will be unable to cross the river if the power company has opened the dam, and that you will then need to follow the old path up past Nedre Skålavatnet to the trail from Sognefjellet to Stølsdalen. Fortunately, this seldom occurs during the summer season. 1. Alternative: Fortundalen to Stølsdalen Instead of starting from Turtagrø, it is possible to follow the marked route to Stølsdalen down from Svensøy in Fortundalen. The trip takes about as long to walk; it is shorter, but it entails significantly greater differences in height! This is also an alternative if you want to end your trip in Stølsdalen. The route first follows the automobile road past the bridge over Granfasta. After that, it follows the old mountain farm path past Nedstestølen, Øvstestølen and then follows the so-called Bjørnstigen across the ridge to the lodge. 2. Stølsdalen to Nørdstedalseter This is the zenith of your trip, in a literal sense. From the lodge, the route ascends fairly steadily, first past a fork in the trail to the marker for the return to Skålavatnet, and then onward all the way to the summit of Liabreen. At the Liaflua heights, the route runs across a small glacier arm, so be careful to follow the markings! This is a route that should not be hiked when visibility is poor, but not only because of the fantastic view you can experience along the way. The marked trail runs a little less than one kilometer west of the Liabreen summit. From there, the route continues steeply out between the glacier and Tverrdalsnosi, but you will not go onto the glacier itself. The marked trail continues steeply downhill toward Vetledalen, where there is a spot for wading across the river. In the course of just a few kilometers, you can experience the gamut of full winter at the summit to full summer down in Vetledalen. After crossing Vetledøla, you will merge with the route from Sognefjellet (see Trip 4d) and can follow it down to Nørdstedalseter. 3. Nørdstedalseter to Trulsbu Although it is about 10 kilometers on the service road during the first part of this trip, don't let this frighten you. The road is pleasant to hike, and the surroundings are magnificent. You hike all the way to the end of the road, where you will pass a waste rock dump and go past the ruins of Medalsbu, an old DNT lodge. It was built in 1938 and abandoned in 1957. The route continues through hilly terrain on the western side of Lake 1382, across Lundadalsbandet and along the western side of Lake 1431. At the western end of the lake, there is a fork for the trail to Illvatnet. From this point, there are marked routes to both Nørdstedalseter and to Sota Sæter. You will continue, however, down into Vesledalen to Trulsbu. At first there is some rocky scree, but down on the valley floor, it is surprisingly green and lush despite the altitude of almost 1300 meters above sea level. Farther? The trip in the Breheimen mountains can not end at either Trulsbu or Nørdstedalseter. Therefore, I will write a little more about options for continuing the trips, even though these fall outside the scope of this pamphlet. From Nørdstedalseter there are two marked routes north to Sota Sæter. They run together as far as the fork at Nørdstedalen. The westernmost goes up to Fortundalsbreen glacier. During the summer season, there is a guide to take you across the glacier; register at Nørdstedalseter or Sota Sæter. The marked trail continues along the northern side of the glacier. The other route to Sota Sæter from Nørdstedalseter goes along the eastern side of Illvatnet and is one hour longer. There is some scree terrain along the lake, but it is a pleasant trip. Out from this route, there is an old marked trail across to Lundadalsbandet and Trulsbu. From Nørdstedalseter, there is also a marked route west to Arentzbu, at the highest point in Mørkrisdalen. From Trulsbu, there is a marked route leading to Skjåk. The route goes along the eastern shore of Lundadalsvatnet and further out into the valley to heimste Lundadalssætri. From here there is a six-kilometer road down to the valley and the municipal center of Bismo. From Trulsbu there is also an unmarked trail southeast past Høydalen to Bøvertun. All of the routes mentioned here are described in On Foot in Norway. Also get the Breheimen hiking map scaled 1:100 000. Length Turtagrø - Stølsdalen, 4 hrs. Fortundalen - Stølsdalen, 3 hrs. up, 2 hrs. down. Stølsdalen - Nørdstedalseter, 6 hrs. Nørdstedalseter - Trulsbu, 5 hrs. Trulsbu - Bøvertun, 7-8 hrs. Unmarked. Trulsbu - Sota, 7 hrs. Trulsbu - Skjåk, 6 hrs. Nørdstedalseter - Sota (via Illvatnet), 8 hrs. Nørdstedalseter - Sota (Fortundalsbreen), 7 hrs. Overnight Accommodations Turtagrø (must be checked because of fire damage), Stølsdalen, Trulsbu, Sota Sæter. Communications Automobile road and bus routes to Turtagrø. Automobile road to Nørdstedalseter and Sota Sæter. Skogadalsbøen Roadless Gem Utladalen, between Årdal and Sognefjellet - this green oasis between the wilderness mountains of West Jotunheimen - has attracted visitors long before our time. The first hiking pioneers spent the night in the pasturelands at the top of the valley, with varying degrees of success. «Jotunologist» Emanuel Mohn was exuberant after he was received with a feast of sour cream porridge at 4 a.m. in the morning by hospitable dairymaids in the summer of 1872, whereas Slingsby and his companions were not quite as effusive when he and two of his fellow wanderers had to share a bed during the summer of 1876, while on the way to his famous conquering of Store Skagastølstind. Quite early then, the newly founded Tourist Association received a proposal to build a lodge in the lush mountain valley. It was nevertheless more easily said than done. How materials were to be brought to such an inaccessible place, and who would be responsible for building, were long-standing open questions. The transportation alone, by horse drawn sled, would take three winters, and it wasn't until the summer of 1888 that the first tourist lodge with 12 beds was completed. It proved to be far from sufficient. DNT had to rent another house on a mountain farm and had to expand shortly afterwards, and transportation of materials was just as difficult each time. An entire book could be written about transportation to Skogadalsbøen through the years. Few - if any - of DNT's lodges have required so much effort to be supplied with all of the things needed to provide shelter and provisions for tourists. It wasn't until recent decades that tracked vehicles and helicopters took over the job of pack horses and manpower. To the same degree that various managers agree on the description of terrible transportation conditions, they agree just as much that, despite all, they would not have gone without the years spent at Skogadalsbøen. The lodge located uppermost in Utladalen is a gem in which both the staff and guests feel comfortable. It is green and lush around the lodge, and it is elegantly situated with a panoramic view of a host of fine peaks and summits across the horizon around it. Whether you want to take a closer look at the splendors of the valley, or feel the ice and snow underfoot on tall peaks, there is enough here from which to choose. Access There are marked hiking routes to Turtagrø, Fannaråken, Sognefjellhytta, Krossbu, and Leirvassbu. Olavsbu (two routes, through Raudalen and Skogadalen), Tyinholmen, Fondsbu, as well as Ingjerdbu and Morkabu. Facts Skogadalsbøen was formally opened in 1888. Owner: DNT. Managers: Anne Serine Heggdal and Lars Åge Hilde. The lodge is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 834 meters above sea level, and has a total of106 beds, including 24 in a separate self-service facility for use during off-seasons. Tel. 975 69 094. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Ingjerdbu, Morkabu and Vetti Pleasant spots in Utladalen It is hard to hike through Vettismorki without being fascinated by the special natural surroundings up here. Towering pine trees and lush vegetation is not to be taken for granted at 700 meters up in the air, and Norway's tallest single waterfall is also an experience (see box Trip 3a). It is unwise to hike too rapidly through such surroundings. Not that you have to do so, however. Two small but excellent self-service lodges have been built at Vettismorki. Morkabu and Ingjerdbu were raised by citizens of Vetti and are operated as self-service lodges. The facilities are secured with usual DNT locks and are supplied with a store of simple provisions. The self-service lodgings are well and good, but it is the mountain farm down in Utladalsjuvet itself that is the pride of the valley. This spot has been owned by the same family since at least 1775, but it is possible that settlement here goes back to before the Black Plague. The farm consists of almost 20 square miles. This includes large expanses of mountain plains on both sides of Utladalen as well as the handsome virgin forest up at Vettismorki. During the same year that DNT was founded, in 1868, Vetti hosted its first tourists, but it wasn't until Vetlestova was built in 1875 that the farm was awarded status as a tourist facility. Vetti was for a long time one of the most important gateways to Jotunheimen, and it was impossible to go through Utladalen without spending the night at Vetti. Before Turtagrø was built toward the end of the 1880's, this was the most convenient starting point for trips in Hurrungane, and several of the owners of Vetti were often used as mountain guides. The Norwegian Meteorological Institute has also frequently called on the people of Vetti - for 101 years, they have reported on weather conditions. A few years ago, unfortunately, the tourist facility was closed, but fortunately, there is still a cafeteria in operation during the summertime, so that it is possible to go inside and experience a little of the atmosphere of the old mountain farm. Access There is a road to Vetti, but it is closed to automobile traffic. There are marked trails from Morkabu and Ingjerdbu to Vetti, Skogadalsbøen, Tyinholmen and Slettningsbu. Facts Vetti farm, no overnight accommodations, cafeteria open during the summer. Morkabu was opened in 1985, Ingjerdbu in 1995. The lodges are owned and operated by Vetti farm as self-service lodgings. The facilities are located in Årdal municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 683 meters above sea level, and have 4 and 12 beds. Tel.: Vetti: 57 66 30 24. Avdalen and Gravdalen Unrestricted, Peaceful and Abandoned The Avdalen farm in Utladalen lies only a couple of kilometers from Hjelle, but the path to the farm was earlier so difficult to follow that it was only possible in the summertime. When there was snow and ice on the hillside, it normally was too dangerous to climb, so that the people at the farm had to be self-sufficient for several months at a stretch. History here is also a little spotty, but Avdalen farm is mentioned in the 1600's, and it is assumed that it was people from Luster who first cleared the pastureland up here; this is revealing about the accessibility from down in the valley nearby. Lærdal pastor Ulrik Fredrik Bøyesen was mildly shocked by the road to the farm after a visit to Utladalen in 1818, and wrote a long treatise about it in a magazine: «The fields were so dreadfully steep and so utterly close to the frightful cliffs, that no unaccustomed soul dared to venture there.» The farm's location probably does not make the same impression on visitors today, but after the road was built on the valley floor, it is considerably easier to get to the farm. A couple hundred meters along a good path brings one up. Along the way, the path passes the abandoned Hagaberg farmstead, which at one time was a smallholding under Avdalen farm. It was abandoned in the 1950's. Up at Avdalen farm, however, there is still life and activity. This likewise was abandoned in 1959, but industrious citizens of Årdal have restored large portions of the farm during recent years, so that it is possible for tourists who drop by during the summer to get both room and board. Avdalen also has a self-service lodging that may be used all year round. From the restored mountain farm, the path continues to, among other places, the unstaffed Gravdal lodge. This is an old mountain smallholding under Avdalen that has been restored by Årdal Hiking Association. Gravdalen is splendidly located above the tree line. From up here there is, if possible, a finer panorama out toward Utladalen and the mountains on the eastern side of the valley than the one seen from down at the main farm. It is unfortunate that so few hikers know about this gem. Access There are marked hiking trails to Avdalen and Gravdalen from Hjelle, Vetti and Stølsmaradalen. Facts Avdalen farm has been a tourist lodge since 1991. The lodge is rented by Årdal Hiking Association and is operated as a staffed tourist facility for part of the summer. The lodge is located in Årdal municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 380 meters above sea level, and has 6 beds in the self-service annex. Gravdalen was formally opened in 1975. Årdal Hiking Association operates the unstaffed lodge. The lodge is located in Årdal municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 840 meters above sea level, and has two beds. Skagastølsbu and Stølsmaradalen Distinctive and Exciting When you continue north in Utaladelen from Avdalen, you will come to idyllic Stølsmaradalen. The site offers an open view toward Stølsnostind and has a pleasant pastureland atmosphere. Stølsmaradalen was earlier a part of Vetti farm's property and was sold in 1787 by Jørgen A. Vetti to Tomas Hallvardson Midthun and Jon Melheim as a mountain farm. There had probably not been this kind of activity here before. The mountain farm was in use from 1940 to 1975. The Tourist Association rented two of the farm buildings and renovated them. The few hikers who find their way here are scarcely able to praise the place enough in the guest book, even though the cabin is not supplied with provisions. Stop for a day and take the trip down to Stølsmaradal waterfall - from its summit, one can see, among other things, the beautiful cascades of water from the Fleskedal and Vetti waterfalls. Stølsmaradalen is also an excellent starting point for trips to Hurrungane, even though this can't beat its neighbor in the northwest, Skagastølsbu. The route there is unmarked, but if you use a map and a compass, you will find your way there. The conditions at Skagastølsbu are less than idyllic. The lodge is very exposed to the elements up on the strip between Midtmaradalen and Skagastølsdalen. It was built here in 1890 as a shelter from avalanches and as a good starting point for mountain climbing in the area. The breezy location has been a joy for generations of Norwegian climbers and hikers, but a cause of worry for its owners. Already during the first winter, the lodge was blown down by gales. It was obvious that at 1758 windblown meters above sea level, stronger materials than wood were required. A new lodge, this time built of stone, was completed in 1894. It has stood there ever since, but because of raw and humid conditions, it has been necessary to completely renovate the lodge several times. With its unique location, the lodge is a perfect starting point for climbing outings on both Skagastølsryggen and Dyrehaugsryggen. For the more experienced hikers, it is also a «must» to have been up to the «lodge on the strip». The trip from Turtagrø up Skagastølsdalen, across the glacier and up onto the strip is magnificent, but requires knowledge about glacier hiking. Access There are no marked routes to Skagastølsbu. Stølsmaradalen has marked routes to Avdalen and Vetti. Facts Skagastølsbu was first raised in 1890, the first stone lodge in 1894. Owner: DNT. The lodge is unstaffed. The lodge is located in Årdal municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 1758 meters above sea level, and has 6 beds. Stølsmaradalen was officially opened in 1975. DNT rents to buildings and operates them as unstaffed lodgings. The lodge is located in Årdal municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 849 meters above sea level, and has 4 beds. Leirvassbu From Stone Cabin to Mountain Hotel Emanuel Mohn, one of our greatest mountain pioneers, was also one of the originators of Leivassbu. In DNT's yearbook for 1873, he suggested that the association set up a simple stone cabin at the point where Visdalen, Leirdalen and Gravdalen meet. It took only two years for the project to be realized, so that building application processing and long-term planning then went considerably faster than today, both in DNT and other places. In the long run, a simple stone cabin at Leirvannet proved insufficient to house the increasing number of mountain wanderers who gradually came to see this part of Jotunheimen. Amund Elveseter, one of the owners down at Ytterdalssetrene, recognized the demand and moved his house further up in the valley. He was given financial support from DNT for transportation and expansion, and in 1887, he and his wife Anne were able to begin hosting guests up in Slethamn, five kilometers from Leirvann. It rapidly became a popular tourist lodge. Amund died in 1904, and one of the last events he experienced was the unfortunate avalanche that razed the lodge to the ground. Fortunately, his son Rasmus was also an industrious lad; he moved the tourist lodge again. This time, the building site became the one that so many tourists up through the years have lauded as Jotunheimen's finest - at the foot of Kyrkja and on the shores of Leivannet. The new Leirvassbu was completed in 1906. The continued story - as for most of the lodges in Jotunheimen - is a tale of renovation and expansion, first through the efforts of Rasmus and his wife Magnhild, and then later by son Åmund and his wife Jessie as driving forces. They developed their homestead of Elveseter down in Bøverdalen into a veritable treasure, while at the same time upgrading Leirvassbu to modern hotel standards, installing electricity and telephone service, and building a road. The business of operating both Elveseter and Leirvassbu, however, became a too much, and Åmund has for many years subleased Leirvassbu to other skillful people. They have managed to preserve the pleasant environment of the establishment that has so much to offer mountain hikers and alpine skiers. In addition, the first stone cabin that DNT built is to be found newly restored on the hill just below the modern tourist lodge. Access There is an automobile road to the lodge. Facts Leirvassbu was built as a stone cabin in 1875 by DNT. The first tourist lodge was completed in 1906. Owner: Åmund Elveseter. Managers: Magny Hilde and Bjørn Bjørgen. The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1405 meters above sea level, and has 190 beds. Tel.: 61 21 29 32. E-mail: lvassbu@online.no Fannaråken Norway's Highest-elevated Tourist Lodge Like a mighty guardian above the century-old traveled road across Sognefjellet, Fannaråken sprawls out, broad and somber and most often veiled in fog. A mute warning of stormy, bad weather. But from time to time, the summit is tempting, light and fair. At such times, one concludes that this is one of the great peaks of Jotunheimen that is most easily accessible. Having once reached the summit, one will discover that Fannaråken is one of the finest vantage points in Norway, under good weather conditions. Hurrungane's row of peaks is so close by that one is almost tempted to reach out and touch them. The panorama toward Smørstabbreen to the east is practically full. In Breheimen to the west, one sees large portions of the impressive Jostedal glacier and the entire row of peaks as far as Holåtinder and Hestbrepigger farthest up in the north. Already in 1926, the Meteorological Institute's Western Norway division erected an observatory on the summit of Fannaråken and stationed two weather observers there all year round. They wanted an elevated outlook post where one could see the storms coming in from the west as early as possible in order to forecast them. It was a tough existence, with a lot of stormy weather and a perpetual battle with ice, snow and dampness almost year round. In times when the weather was seriously stormy, it was hardly possible to go outdoors at all. DNT had contributed a sum of money to the building of the station, and tourists were able to use one room in the observatory. The room quickly became too small, and in 1934, the first tourist lodge was completed after an impressive work of logistics, in which pack horses, winches, cables and carrying were needed to bring up the thirty tons of materials needed to build 12 beds, day room and a kitchen 2068 meters above sea level. The lodge has since been expanded and modernized a number of times and is today a very popular hiking destination, whether one wants to spend the night or not. Access There are marked hiking trails to Turtagrø, Sognefjellet and Skogadalsbøen. Facts Fannaråkhytta has hosted tourists since 1926. Owner: DNT OA. The lodge is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 2068 meters above sea level, and has 36 beds. Tel.: 941 35 993. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Turtagrø Klatrernes hotell Access The Sognefjell road goes past the hotel. There are marked hiking trails to Fannaråken, Skagastølsbu and Stølsdalen. The road over Sognefjellet is closed during the winter, but it is normally snow-plowed as far as Turtagrø. Facts Turtagrø was built in 1888. The hotel is owned and operated by Ole Berge Drægni. The hotel is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 884 meters above sea level, and has 80 beds. Tel.: 57 68 61 16. E-mail: turtagro@online.no Web: www.skjolden-com/bylus/turtagro.html Olavsbu See description in pamphlet 2 Access There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Leirvassbu, Skogadalsbøen, Eidsbugarden and Fondsbu. Facts Olavsbu self-service lodge was formally opened in 1952. Owner: DNT OA. The lodge is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 1440 meters above sea level, and has 40 beds. Tel.: None. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Stølsdalen See description in pamphlet 4 Access There are marked hiking trails to Turtagrø, Fortundalen, Nørdstedalseter and Herva at Skålavatnet. Facts Stølsdalen was built in 1991 and is operated as a self-service lodge. Owner: DNT OA. Located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 1040 meters above sea level, and has 8 beds. Tel.: Nei. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Krossbu See description in pamphlet 4 Access The Sognefjell road goes past the lodge, where there are regularly scheduled bus stops. There are marked hiking trails to Nørdstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (w/ guided glacier trips), Skogadalsbøen and Fannaråken (w/ guided glacier trips). Facts Krossbu Tourist Facility began operation in 1902. Owners: Torill and Kåre Vole. Krossbu Tourist Facility is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1260 meters above sea level, and has 85 beds. Tel.: 61 21 29 22. Eidsbugarden See description in pamphlet 2 Access There is an automobile road to the hotel and shuttle boat routes over Bygdin. There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen and Yksendalsbu. Facts Vinjestova, the forerunner of Eidsbugarden Hotel, was opened in 1868. Owner: Hans Martin Skagen. Manager: Leif Skagen. The hotel is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1060 meters above sea level, and has 50 beds. Tel.: 61 36 77 14. E-mail: ocdahl@online.no Sognefjellhytta See description in pamphlet 4 Access The Sognefjell road goes past the lodge, where there are bus stops. There are marked hiking trails to Nørdstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (w/ guided glacier trips), Skogadalsbøen and Fannaråken (w/ guided glacier trips). Facts: Sognefjellhytta was opened in 1947. Owner: Anne Tove Mundhjeld and Arnfinn Jensen. The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1415 meters above sea level, and has 90 beds. Tel.: 61 21 29 34. E-mail: sognefjellet@sensewave.com Web: www.sognefjellet.com Tyinholmen høyfjellstuer Access Automobile road past the facility. Marked hiking trails to Skogadalsbøen, Vettismorki and Slettningsbu. Facts Tyinholmen høyfjellstuer has hosted tourists since 1893. Owners: Inger Sagstuen and Erling Olsen. The place is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1080 meters above sea level, and has 65 beds. Tel.: 61 36 78 88. Gjendebu See description in pamphlet 1 Access Shuttle boats serve Gjende all summer long, and there are marked hiking trails to Memurubu, Leirvassbu, Spiterstulen, Olavsbu, Fondsbu and Torfinnsbu. Facts Gjendebu was formally opened in 1871. Owner: DNT OA. Managers: Aase and Håkon Dalen. The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 990 meters above sea level, and has 119 beds, including 34 beds in the self-service annex. Tel.: 61 23 89 44. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Fondsbu See description in pamphlet 2 Access There is an automobile road to Fondsbu and a shuttle boat over Bygdin. There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen and Yksendalsbu. Facts Fondsbu turisthytte was opened in 1993. Owner: Fondsfinans AS. Managers: DNT OA c/o Nina Schreiber and Helge Lindstad. The lodge is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1065 meters above sea level, and has 90 beds. Tel.: 970 74 218. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Web: www.eidsbugarden.com Choose your trip according to appetite Setting up an appropriate hiking trip is in many ways like composing a successful dinner menu. It is wise to begin with a little appetizer to prepare the body for the main course, and it is always good to have a dessert, as a kind of reward for having completed the task. In choosing the trip proposals in these pamphlets, I have tried to keep this in mind. The trips need to be varied and have some peak moments in more than the literal sense along the way. Hopefully, I have succeeded. In any event, there is enough from which to choose, whether one prefers several appetizers, copious main courses or tempting desserts. The various trip menus are designed so that you can do them in the opposite direction, or combine parts of different menus to make your own version. In terms of the details in the trip menus, the length of the suggested legs is given in hours. For novices in the mountains, this may seem a little strange. But that is how things are in the Norwegian mountains, as well. The terrain is so diverse that meters and kilometers become misleading. It makes no sense to compare a thousand meters of steep, rocky hillside in Jotunheimen with a one-kilometer stroll through Frogner Park. The time that an average hiker can expect to spend is much more informative for the majority of us. The number of hours and an overview of the marked trails are also indicated on the map in the back of the pamphlet. As you read the various trip proposals, you should have one finger on the map. The description of the route will be much more informative if you do so. If you want to learn more about an area you want to explore, you should become a member of DNT and get hold of On Foot in Norway. All of the marked routes are described here, and the book also contains much information about Jotunheimen and other mountain areas. Before you get started choosing your tour menu, there's just one more thing: Remember that it is fine to eat your fill, but uncomfortable when you overeat. Degree of difficulty of the trips g = EASY gg = AVERAGE ggg = STRENUOUS Utladalen Lengthwise Trip 3a - 3-4 days - gg If you want to visit only one valley in Jotunheimen, I would suggest that you choose Utladalen and begin at Fannaråken. This will allow you to experience a cross section of what the mountain area has to offer. 1. Turtagrø to Fannaråken The majority of people who visit Utladalen begin from Øvre Årdal and Hjelle and take the trip up through the valley, but I am more in favor of starting from the north and hiking downward (but with a few exceptions). From this direction there are several starting points: either from Turtagrø and across Keisaren, or from Sognefjellhytta or Krossbu via Vetleutladalen. My favorite, however, is to start the trip down Utladalen and spend a night up at Fannaråken. This of course means that you also start out here with a rather tough uphill climb, but it is worth it. If you are lucky and have nice weather up there, you will have a unique view out toward the area you will be going down into. Before the sun goes down somewhere behind Jostedal glacier, the last rays will turn Hurrungane's craggy peaks golden yellow, and Gjertvasstind, Styggedalstinder and Skagastølstinder are especially impressive from your opera box vantage point atop Fannaråken. It is more than a thousand-meter ascent from Turtagrø to Fannaråken, but the path is excellent and the rise is quite even. The path goes into Helgedalen, partly parallel with a very newly finished farm road toward Keisaren to Skautevatnet. It is closed to normal traffic, but you can ride a bicycle in through the valley and leave it where the path and the road divide. The path goes past Ekrehytta, and from there the path winds all the way to the summit. Fannaråkhytta is located on the very top. 2. Fannaråkhytta to Skogadalsbøen When the weather is nice atop Fannaråken, you will surely delay your departure, but no matter, the day's leg is feasible. It starts along the lengthy ridge on Fannaråken to Fannaråknosa. From there it descends steadily and evenly, first to Keisarpasset (yes, it is so magnificent that it deserves its name) and then down to Gjertvassdalen. It is very rocky in the beginning, but grassy terrain gradually takes over, and down over the hillside, the ground is green and lush. It is not hard to understand why this has been a desirable grazing area for a long time. The first mountain farms that were built in Utladalen were probably the ones in Gruidalen or at nearby Gjertvassbøen sometime during the 1700's Later, Murane and Lusahaugane were raised across the valley at the mouth of Storutladalen. The quality of Utladalen's pastureland is so good that farmers from Luster, until recently, took the trouble to herd their livestock down the long and perilous trail from their valley and over to Keisaren. In our time, domesticated livestock are not as sure-footed as earlier, and this perhaps explains the newly constructed road in Helgedalen, although still today at least part of the valley is used as pasture. Not as much, however, as previously. After passing Utla over a solid bridge, the path disappears into a dense birch forest. If you examine old pictures of the valley, this forest appears rather sparse. Its growth is undoubtedly due to less grazing and reduced woodcutting compared with the past. After a couple of kilometers, you emerge from the woods and go down to the idyllic Skogadalsbøen tourist lodge. 3. Skogadalsbøen to Ingjerdbu, Vetti or Hjelle The trip down through Utladalen from Skogadalsbøen also begins with an uphill climb. The tourist lodge lies snugly sheltered at just 834 meters above sea level, and if you follow the path south, you will have to inch your way almost to 1300 meters in order to get past Friken. Along the way, the trail divides two times. First, there are the routes to Olavsbu, Gjendebu and Fondsbu bearing off to the left and after 500 meters comes the trail to Tyinholmen through Uradalen bearing off toward the east. Once you have reached the top of Friken, you will be able to enjoy both the excellent view and the fact that the rest of the trip runs downhill. First you will come to the old mountain pasture Fleskedalen, where there is a new fork in the road toward Tyinholmen and finally ending at elegant Vettismorki. Here there is an opportunity to spend the night in the self-service lodges of Ingjerdbu or Morkabu, owned and operated by Vetti Farm. The lodges are not far from the summit of the impressive Vettisfossen, which you definitely must see. Hjelle is also close enough that you can hike there on the same day, first steeply downhill to the old mountain farm Vetti (food, but no lodging) and then along the pleasant, traffic-free gravel road to Hjelle. Jotunheimen's most beautiful valley Like the gash from a divine axe, Utladalen cleaves its way north from Øvre Årdal and far into the Jotunheimen mountains. The gash from the axe is more than 40 kilometers long and doesn't stop until it reaches the top of Sognefjellet. The gap separates Hurrungane from Stølsnostindane and Fannaråkbreen from Smørstabbreen. To complete this work of creation, the chasm is filled with gushing rivers and spectacular waterfalls from a score of side valleys, and topping it all, a generous hand has sprinkled a shower of color from Nature's palette - the entire spectrum from lush green to icy blue. Around Utladalen there are more than 50 peaks more than 2000 meters tall, but despite the steepness and the fierce formations, it is a fact that the color green is much more predominant than ice. Even though it appears inaccessible, generations of people have lived many places here, both on the valley floor and up along the plunging, steep mountainsides. Today, both farming and summer grazing are basically activities of the past, but many of the houses still stand and have been converted for use as tourist lodges. A hike down the length of this valley is a rare experience. Utladalen Nature House This is a small information center located in the old farm building and residence at the Skåri Farm at Hjelle, just inside the boundaries of the Utladalen Landscape Preserve. The exhibit relates the history of the natural environment and cultural history in West Jotunheimen. DNT and the National Directorate for Nature Management provide their own information at Nature House. During the summer, there is a café in the residence building. Utladalen Nature House is ancillary to the Norwegian Mountain Museum in Lom, which has national park center status. Day trips around Skogadalsbøen Skogadalsbøen is a fine starting point for climbing to the summit of Gjertvasstind's 2351 meters. The trip is often called «Norway's longest uphill climb», so you should expect a rather demanding day's outing, but it is manageable if you are in normally good shape. At the end of the trip agenda is a trip down to the abandoned mountain farm at Vormeli. It is located about 600 meters above sea level, and it can also be combined with a trip to the ruins of Gjertvassbøen, along Utla, and back. Elegant Vettismorki Elegant is the right word when referring to Vettismorki - the row of towering, handsome giant pine trees are far more germane to southern climes. Several of the trees are nearly 800 years old, and it is almost incredible to find such luxuriance more than 700 meters above sea level. The wooded areas up here in several spots appear to be pure virgin woods, but appearances are deceptive. Through the years, there has been considerable deforestation. In the beginning of the 1700's, the copper mine at Gruvefjellet (west of Årdal) required a lot of lumber, and also in the 1800's, many trees were felled. The lumber was sent over the Vetti waterfall during late winter. The waterfall has created an enormous ice deposit at its foot, perhaps as much as 80 meters high, serving to break the falling cascade. Until Årdal and Sunndal Works began production of aluminum in Øvre Årdal, the woods had recovered considerably, and in addition to the many large pines, there were many young pine saplings. The forest made good progress from about 1930, and this was due to an improved climate and reduced grazing. Fluoride gas from Årdal, however, has severely damaged the wooded areas. Vettisfossen After Mardalsfossen was regulated, Vettisfossen is the country's highest free-falling waterfall. If you choose to make the trip down the steep mountainsides to Vetti, you should also treat yourself to a detour from the mountain farm and over to the Vetti waterfall. The sight of the 275-meter cascade down into Utladalen is an experience that is definitely breathtaking even for the most blasé of us. If you are careful, you can come in close underneath the falls. The sensation you feel as you cock your head back to glimpse the point where the cascade leaves the ledge above, and at the same time being showered with the spray from the waterfall, is also fantastic. Bear in mind that during some winters, the fall freezes into a continuous column of ice that adventurous climbers have made their way up. If you choose to remain up at Vettismorki, you can also experience the falls in all their glory. There is a path to the lookout platform, and if you lean out over the edge, you will be able to confirm that the Vesttisfossen provides an overwhelming sensation seen from the top as well. Length Turtagrø - Fannaråkhytta, 4 hrs. up, 3 hrs. down. Fannaråken - Skogadalsbøen, 4 hrs down, 5 hrs. up. Sognefjellet - Skogadalsbøen, 5 hrs. Turtagrø - Skogadalsbøen, 6 hrs. Skogadalsbøen - Ingjerdbu, 5 hrs. Ingjerdbu - Hjelle, 2 hrs. Overnight Accommodations Turtagrø, Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Skogadalsbøen, Ingjerdbu, Morkabu. Public transportation Bus routes to both Øvre Årdal and to Turtagrø and Sognefjellet. Automobile road to Hjelle from Øvre Årdal. Round trip at Sognefjellet Trip 3b - 3 days - gg This is a varied and pleasant little round trip that will provide you with a taste of glaciers, heights and the fertile Utladalen valley. 1. Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta to Fannaråkhytta There is a marked route from both tourist lodges to the edge of Fannaråkbreen glacier. The routes converge before Prestesteinsvatnet and run together to the glacier. If you plan to cross the glacier, you will have to have experience hiking on glaciers and the necessary equipment, or go with a guide. There are daily guided glacier hikes from the beginning of July to the end of August. The guide stays at Fannaråken and meets tourists at the lower edge of the glacier at 1 p.m. You will have to provide information as to whether you want guiding to Krossbu or to Sognefjellhytta the evening before. The route across the glacier is steep in the beginning, but gradually slackens off. There are both crevices and water holes that may be covered with snow, so beware. The route goes toward the steep eastern incline of Fannaråken, and it is somewhat sloping and steep toward the end, before you get to the mountain ridge and merge onto the route from Skogadalsbøen. From Fannaråknosi and as far as the lodge, there is a path on a plateau offering a fine panorama. 2. Fannaråkhytta til Skogadalsbøen See Trip 3a. 3. Skogadalsbøen to Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta For the first kilometers, the route goes through dense birch woods, but after you have crossed the river at Storebrua, the forest ends. The route passes the old pasture in Guridalen and continues up the valley on the western side of the river. There are also bridges over Kongsdøla and Steindøla, and one kilometer after the latter, the path divides. The route to the left goes to Sognefjellhytta, and the one on the right goes to Krossbu. The distance to either lodge is about the same, and the markings on the trail are good, so that you can let your taste in lodges dictate the choice of route. Length Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta - Fannaråkhytta, 5 hrs. Fannaråkhytta - Skogadalsbøen, 4 hrs. down, 5 hrs. up. Skogadalsbøen - Sognefjellhytta/Krossbu, 5 hrs. Overnight Accommodations Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Fannaråkhytta and Skogadalsbøen. Public Transportation Automobile road with regularly scheduled bus routes Sognefjellet. Around Glaciers and Summits in West Jotunheimen This is a truly grand trip that offers glacier hiking, high mountain passes, deep valleys and ample opportunities for detours to Jotunheimen's great peaks. 1. Leirvassbu to Olavsbu We begin with an easy and pleasant opening on our round trip. The route starts with a slight climb up the ridge toward Høgvaglen. After one kilometer's hike, the trail bears down from the ridge and passes along the eastern side of first the upper, then the lower of the Høgvagl ponds. Here there is some rocky scree, but the ground becomes easier as the path curves southward. The brook from Nedre Høgvagltjønn may be crossed by stepping from stone to stone or wading across. The lower lake at Semmeldalsmunnen is passed on the eastern side and the next one likewise. The going is steep up to Raudalsbandet, and there usually are some snow drifts in this area. If the drifts are slippery, one can opt for a slacker ascent by staying a little farther to the east. Up on Raudalsbandet, visibility is once again open. From here the ascent begins to both Skardalstind (see pamphlet 2) and Eastern Raudalstind (see box). From the strip and down to Olavsbu, the descent if even and pleasant. 2. Olavsbu to Fondsbu From Olavsbu, there are two routes running west toward Skogadalsbøen, and both are good alternatives for those who prefer a shorter round trip than the one I suggest. If you want to have an even longer round trip, you may instead continue through Raudalen to Gjendebu and then continue west to Fondsbu. I suggest, however, an intermediate option, i.e. that you hike to Fondsbu and then go over to Skogadalsbøen. The day trek over to Fondsbu runs along the base of Mjølkedalstind, Sjogholstind and Storegut, so if you feel energetic, the latter two are conveniently located for a detour along the way. Moreover, the route to Fondsbu is quite easy. There is a little rocky terrain up to the gorge north of Sjogholstind. After that, you round the lake and go over yet another gorge, before heading out toward the large Mjølkedalsvatnet. Along the eastern shore of this, over yet another ridge and then downhill toward Fondsbu. 3. Fondsbu to Skogadalsbøen The next day's leg is a little longer than the two previous ones, and there are several possible routes. I suggest that you make the trip over Sløtafjellet and Uradalen; this is varied and pleasant trip. The day begins uphill here also; it is good to get the blood circulating. Kvitevatnet is passed on the western side. An alternative route to Skogadalsbøen goes over Uranosbreen and Skogadalsbreen, and this line (which of course is not on the map) begins along the eastern side of Kvitevatnet. The trip requires glacier hiking skills. We continue over toward Uradalsvatnet, and at the outlet, you should expect some wading; you will have to wade in the river from Kvitevatnet, as well. The route continues along the western shore of Uradalsvatnet and then steadily uphill toward the gorge across to Uradalen itself. Here, on the other hand, there is a lot of even terrain, but the valley has been named appropriately, so you should expect to hike across a lot of stony ground, especially toward the end, when the path crosses Storura. From there, the descent is steeper down into lush Utladalen and out to Skogadalsbøen. 4. Skogadalsbøen to Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta See description in Trip 3b. 5. Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta to Leirvassbu over Smørstabbreen Every morning at about 9:30 a.m. during the summer season from the beginning of July until mid-August, a guide sets out from Leirvassbu taking tourists west across Smørstabbreen. At the same time, a guide starts out from Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta taking tourists east across the glacier. You may register for the trip at all three lodges the evening before. Following a guide across the glacier is a good alternative for hikers other than those lacking glacier hiking experience, and it is not very expensive, either. The guide has rope, crampons and necessary safety equipment. The route goes up to 1800 meters above sea level and is challenging in poor weather, so be extra particular about bringing proper wind clothing, rain wear and warm garments. From the west side, the hike goes up onto the glacier, usually on the northern side of Bøverbreen, and then further south of Kalven and toward Storebjørn. From there, it goes downhill on the glacier toward Sandelvbreen, across it and then a little upward again toward Surtningsbreen and across it. The glacier is quite steep, so here you need to be extra careful when the snow is hard. From Skaret between Surtningstind and Stetind, there is a path running west and down into Gravdalen. The final kilometers to Leirvassbu may be hiked either on the old service road in the valley, or along a path that runs more or less parallel with the road. Trips around Olavsbu In addition to the trips in pamphlet 2, a couple other high points should be mentioned as excellent destinations around Olavsbu. Mjøkedalstind is an obvious choice. It was conquered already in 1881 by William C. Slingsby and Johannes Vigdal, and they characterized it as one of Norway's most gracious peaks. The summit is breezy, especially the last portion of the ridge and the trip up to the ridge is steep, but if you are careful, it is a feasible trip for most mountain hikers. The other peak I want to emphasize is Austre Raudalstind. It is accessed most easily from the north side. You will have to go up to Raudalsbandet and across Simledalsbandet and from there up the ridge west of the peak before you set course toward the summit marker. Many Trips Around Leirvassbu For those who want to do the summits in Jotunheimen, there is scarcely another lodge that is so conveniently located in terms of two thousand-meter peaks than Leirvassbu. All around the lodge, there is a veritable multitude of peaks and crests offering opportunities for scaling and climbing at all levels of difficulty. All you need to do is consult one of the good guide books that have been published in recent years, lace up your rucksack and get going. The most important destinations are obvious. Kyrkja's characteristic profile towers over Leirvassbu, and the trip to the top is almost mandatory for anyone who stays at the lodge. The normal way up goes from the south and is quite easy, but breezy. The route first runs up over a broad crest that is covered with rough rocky scree. The uppermost hundred meters here are very steep and narrow. If you want to climb more, the choice is yours: Raudalstindar, Høgevagltindar, Visbretindar and Urdadalstindar - just to mention a few - are all here to tempt you. For glacier hikers, choices are also plentiful. It is no wonder the choice fell on this lodge when DNT was to begin arranging their so-called alpine courses - both glacier hiking and climbing at the same time - toward the end of the 1980's. North toward the Galdhøpiggen massif, there are a series of small but interesting glaciers. At Easter, a really festive outing is to go from Leirvassbu, via Visdalen and across a number of these glaciers, and then around Galdhøpiggen through Porten and on down to Juvasshytta. In the past, this route was marked with sticks. On the western side, it is primarily mighty Smørstabbreen that entices glacier hikers. There are guided trips here all summer. This is a fine alternative for everyone, not just those who lack glacier skills and need to follow a guide. In addition, there is fishing in Leirvann, as well as an interesting geological trail down to Slethamn. In other words, one doesn't have to have sunshine and blue skies to take worthwhile trips in the area around Leirvassbu. To Langeskavltind from Fondsbu In pamphlet 2 you will find several suggestions for day trips around Fondsbu, but the map for the best trip is covered only by this pamphlet, namely a trip to Langeskavltind. It begins by following the marked trail toward Olavsbu to the place where it leaves the shoreline of Mjølkedalsvatnet at the foot of mighty Storegut. (You reach the summit most easily from the backside at the upper Mjøkedal pond.) Continue around the larger Mjølkedalsvatnet and up the surface of Mjølkedalsbreen (you must also have knowledge about glacier hiking and the necessary equipment). After that, both Langeskavltind and Uraknatten are conveniently located for a visit. Not to mention big brother himself, Uranostind, 2157 meters. The return trip may be made over Langeskavlen, and you will have completed a memorable round trip. If you are not so ambitious or lack glacier hiking skills, I suggest that you go around Mjølkedalsvatnet on the narrow tongue of land to the northwest and follow the river down toward Bygdin. Length Olavsbu - Leirvassbu, 4 hrs. Olavsbu - Skogadalsbøen (through Skogadalen), 6 hrs. Olavsbu - Skogadalsbøen (through Raudalen), 6 hrs. Olavsbu - Fondsbu, 5 hrs. Fondsbu - Skogadalsbøen, through Uradalen, 7 hrs. Skogadalsbøen - Sognefjellhytta/Krossbu, 5 hrs. Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta - Smørstabbreen - Leirvassbu, 6 hrs. Overnight Accommodations Leirvassbu, Olavsbu, Fondsbu, Skogadalsbøen, Krossbu and Sognefjellhytta. Communications Automobile road to Leirvassbu and Fondsbu. Automobile road and bus routes over Sognefjellet. Short and Steep in Utladalen Trip 3d - 3 days - gg A round trip between abandoned farmsteads and mountain pastures in Utladalen's rich natural surroundings. 1. Hjelle to Stølsmaradalen The trip starts easily with five kilometers along the public road to Vetti. Until 1973, the only access to this mountain farm was a very steep and crooked path. The local citizens of Årdal then decided to build a road. It would cost them about 50 000 hours of volunteer work and four years of effort! At Vetti today, there is only a cafeteria in operation, but drop in and have a bite to eat and soak up the atmosphere before you continue on your way. The path continues in through the valley, and you should also treat yourself to a detour to the impressive Vesttisfossen before you cross Utla by bridge and begin the tortuously steep ascent up Brendeteigen. Fill your canteen before you start climbing; you will definitely need a few swigs and some breathers along the way. The consolation is that the difference in height up the hillside is only about 500 meters, and that you will eventually have a fantastic view toward the Vetti waterfall. Up at the tree line, the path merges with the old farm trail from Avdalen, and it runs a little downhill before you reach the idyllic old mountain pasture Stølsmaradalen. 2. Stølsmaradalen to Avdalen There are no longer marked routes further than Stølsmaradalen over toward Skagastølsbru. Hurrungane is a wilderness area in Jotunheimen National Park with the least accommodation possible for the public. DNT can provide more information about routes in this area, and good guide books have been written for the area. Today's leg, therefore, goes back along the valley again, easy and pleasant, and generally at a steady height along the tree line, until it passes Fuglenosa. Along the way, you can look forward to the view to the peaks on the eastern side of Utladalen. After Fuglenosa, the path veers downhill to the abandoned Avdalen farm. Along the trail, there is also an unmarked path that leads up to the unstaffed Gravdalen lodge, which is definitely worth a detour. Volunteer workers from Årdal have also been at work renovating the abandoned mountain farm, so that it is now operated as a staffed lodge during the summer. Here you should absolutely spend a night before continuing on down the valley, even though the distance is not prohibitive and you can reach Hjelle by evening if you absolutely must. 3. Avdalen to Hjelle Easy and pleasant down the hillside to the public road and then following it to Hjelle. Length Hjelle - Stølsmaradalen, 5 hrs. Stølsmaradalen - Avdalen, 5 hrs. Avdalen - Hjelle, 1 hr. Overnight Accommodations Stølsmaradalen, Avdalen and Gravdalen. Communications Automobile road to Hjelle. Eidsbugarden In the spirit of Vinje More than anyone else, it is poet Aasmund Olavsson Vinje whose name is most associated with Eidsbugarden, located on the western shore of Jotunheimen's largest lake, Bygdin. The name Jotunheimen has been attributed to him, and his poetry has been significantly responsible for the growth of interest in the Norwegian mountains toward the end of the 1880's. From 1863 until he died, Vinje and his friends were usually in the mountains several weeks each summer, among other places at the western end of Bygdin. During the summer of 1868, Vinje and three of his comrades dubbed his little cabin with the elegant name Eidsbugarden. Vinje, often penniless, had problems financing his portion of the building and had to borrow from Consul Thomas Heftye, DNT's founder. After Vinje died, Heftye came in as co-owner, and eventually he bought out the other partners. Enterprising Heftye hired the renowned mountain guide Ole Røisheim from Bøverdalen as resident tenant and eventually as manager of the tourist lodge. The latter expanded and operated Eidsbugarden, first for Heftye - and later for his son - in an exemplary manner all the way until 1906, at which time he was 79 years old! In 1905, a motorized shuttle boat route over Bygin was established, and the year after, Kristoffer Kvame, a reindeer owner and mountain man from Valdres, and the wealthy Oslo citizen Einar Andersen, bought Eidsbugarden. Kvame became the sole owner in 1909, and during his time Eidsbugarden developed dramatically. Already in 1909, on the occasion of a visit by Norway's new royal family, the large red residence of Eidsbugarden was described as «by far the most comfortable hotel in Jotunheimen». The buildings were further expanded in the early 1920's and then later at several intervals. The Kvame family operated the hotel all the way until 1974, when it was sold to Eidsbugarden Tourist Center. For long periods of time in both the 1980's and 90's, it was not possible to keep the hotel open, but now the hotel so rich in tradition is once again in operation. Access There is an automobile road to the hotel and a shuttle boat route over Bygdin. There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen and Yksendalsbu. Facts Vinjestova, the forerunner of Eisbugarden hotel, was opened in 1868. Owner: Hans Martin Skagen. Manager: Leif Skagen. The hotel is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1060 meters above sea level, and has 50 beds. Tel.: 61 36 77 14. E-mail: ocdahl@online.no Fondsbu New lodge at the old gateway In 1992, Fondfinans AS bought the annex at Eidsbugarden, «The Happy Wanderer», and leased it to DNT OA. The year after, when DNT celebrated its 125th anniversary, the tourist lodge of Fondsbu was opened. For DNT, this has almost been like returning to where foot tourism began. The 26 beds that were in the tourist lodge soon proved insufficient, and it became necessary to build an annex. The fact that there are an ever increasing number of guests is due in no small degree to the new hosts, who have made every effort to make the lodge well-known. They have succeeded in distinguishing Fondsbu as one of the best places to eat in all of Jotunheimen. Organized day outings with guides to selected destinations are also an initiative that causes many guests to choose to stay over a few extra days at Fondsbu. If one enjoys wild and varied natural surroundings, it is not even necessary to use fine cuisine or mountain guides as a justification for staying over at Fondsbu. Nor does one have to be as sensitive a soul as Vinje to feel the attraction of the peaks when gazing at Falketind's impressive facade toward Koldedalen. Each year, there are many who make the trip made by Keilhau, Boeck and Urden, who were the first to reach the top in 1820. The most common route goes from Andrevatnet in Morka, Koldedalen and across the glacier to the summit. If you master glacier hiking, the trip is quite easy, and most people combine the visit to Falketind with a trip up to neighboring Stølsnostind. If the view from Falketind is impressive toward the east, the one from Stølsnostind is at least as breathtaking toward the west, among other things toward the craggy Hurrungane on the other side of Utladalen. Since you are in the area, Uranostind is also an excellent hiking destination. This peak also requires glacier hiking. But you will not have to go far to enjoy the view. Skinnegga, at 1518 meters, is just a few short kilometers south of Fondsbu and Eidsbugarden and can easily be reached during an afternoon outing, and the view is breathtaking! Access There is an automobile road to Fonsbu and a shuttle boat over Bygdin. There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen and Yksendalsbu. Facts Fondsbu turisthytte was opened in 1993. Owner: Fondsfinans AS. DNT OA rents the lodge. Managers: Nina Schreiber and Helge Lindstad. The lodge is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1065 meters above sea level, and has 90 beds. Tel.: 970 74 218. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Olavsbu Self-service idyll Already long before the war, DNT wanted to build a lodge in Raudalen in order to disperse traffic in Jotunheimen. The routes between Gjendebu and Skogadalsbøen, and Leirvassbu and Eidsbugarden, were so lengthy that many were reluctant to hike in this area. A lodge at the intersection between these two routes uppermost in Raudalen would therefore serve to divide up the daily hiking legs and to create more opportunities for tourists going from lodge to lodge. When DNT received a large endowment from ship owner Olav Ringdal and his wife to build a lodge in memory of their son Olav, who had fallen during World War II, there was therefore little doubt as to where such a lodge should be placed and where it would be the most beneficial. And what an exquisite location - not only does the lodge have the crossing of two important hiking routes practically on its doorstep, Olavsbu itself is located at the base of some of the finest peaks Jotunheimen has to offer. Right in front of it towers the gracious Mjølkedalstinden, all of 2137 meters (trip description, see pamphlet 3). To its rear, Olavsbu has lofty Raudalseggi, at 2168 meters. It was first climbed in 1906 by Ferdinand Schelderup and Agnes Jakhelln. The ascent directly to the top behind the lodge requires climbing skills and safety equipment, but it is possible to reach the summit without climbing by starting from Storådalen. No the less grand are Sjogholstind, Skardalstind and Raudalstindan, all of which lie inside a feasible day trip from Olavsbu. Olavsbu was completed in 1952 and rapidly become so popular that the lodge had to be expanded already by 1960. Later, it was expanded even more at several intervals, so that it is today among DNT's largest self-service lodges, boasting more than 40 beds. The capacity is necessary when we know that the record for overnight stays is more than 3000 persons per year. Access There are marked hiking trails to Gjendebu, Leirvassbu, Skogadalsbøen, Eidsbugarden and Fondsbu. Facts Olavsbu self-service lodge was formally opened in 1952. Owner: DNT OA. The lodge is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 1440 meters above sea level, and has 40 beds. Tel.: None. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Haugseter fjellstue Old Traditions at Vinstri At Mørstadstølen, almost at the east end of the great lake, Vinstri, archeologists have found the remains of a Stone Age settlement. The arrowheads that were found nearby bear witness to the activities of our fur-clad forefathers in the high mountains. It is probable that humans have made use of this area more or less continuously ever since that time, for both hunting and fishing. It also became popular to have summer farms at Vinstri. Before the war, there were at least fifty summer dairy farms operating along the shores, and still today several of them are in operation. Nearby Mørstadstølen is Haugseter. Already in the 1860's, it had gained the reputation among hiking tourists of being a good place to spend the night. When increasingly more hikers began choosing the route toward Jotunheimen through the lower portions of Gausdal Vestfjell, this was the natural place to find accommodations. In the beginning, the tourists had to share quarters with the farm people, but in 1876, Øystein Rudi and his wife Ingrid built a separate tourist lodge near the farmstead. They ran it up until 1910, when their daughter Marit and her husband, Tollef Haavi, took over. In 1919, the facilities were renovated again, so much so this time that for a few years the place bore the elegant name of Haugseter Hotel. Many tourists were also brought here by rowboat. Those arriving at the shoreline across from Haugseter would raise a white flag signaling that they needed transportation. In 1911, a motorized shuttle boat was put in service at Vinstri, just as on the other large lakes in Jotunheimen. The boat served the lake until 1954, when the Jotunheim road between Bygdin and Skåbu was completed, but the lake was not only important for boat traffic - the excellent fishing here attracted many people, both locals and tourists. In 1989, regrettably, Haugseter Mountain Lodge burned to the ground. Fortunately it has been rebuilt in the same pleasant, old style. It is there for the enjoyment of both hiking tourists and travelers along the Jotunheimen road. Access The Jotunheimen road between Bygdin and Skåbu passes the lodge. There are marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim, Oskampen and Storeskag. Facts Haugseter fjellstue has hosted tourists since the 1860's. Owners: Rønjus Nordtorp and Kari Hauge. The lodge is located in Øystre Slidre municipality in Oppland, 1040 meters above sea level, and has a total of 64 beds. Tel.: 61 34 15 10. Torfinnsbu The Lodge that Moved Away In 1867, a cabin was built beside one of the old stone sheds at Nybua, about midway on the northern shore of 28-kilometer long Bygdin, Jotunheimen's largest lake. The cabin was meant to be quarters for the cattle herders who brought livestock to this area for longer periods during the summertime, but already in 1870, hiking tourists began to spend the night here. In 1876, William C. Slingsby, Amanuel Mohn and Knut Lykken came to visit; they were on their way west to climb the great Skagastølstind. DNT was given the option to buy the cabin in 1888, but didn't do so until 1901. The association then closed its lodge, Tvindehaugen, on Bygdin Lake, dismantled the building and transported the lumber east. About one kilometer east of Nybua, where Torfinnsdøla meets Bygdin, DNT found a lovely spot, and in 1905, the lodge was completely rebuilt. After a few years, however, it proved to be too small, so that in 1909, it was expanded and renamed with the somewhat more elegant Torfinnsbu, after the river and the magnificent mountains beneath which the lodge is located. In 1913, the lodge was taken over by the landowners, who had right of purchase after ten years. The various managers of Torfinnsbu, through their efforts over the years, have created a place that mountain tourists have come to appreciate, and that is counts above all. In recent years, Torfinnsbu has undergone a comprehensive modernization, and as a result is well-suited to host more tourists. Mountain climbers showed early interest in Torfinnsbu, and do so still today. Torfinnstindane, especially, makes a striking impression seen from Bygdin below. During Slingsby's visit, he and his companions were able to add Østre Torfinnstind, at 2119 meters, to their long list of first ascents. The trip down from Torfinnsbu and up to the highest of the three Torfinnstindane is breezy in places, but not particularly difficult, and does not require climbing experience. The same can be said of most of the two-thousand-meter peaks around Torfinnsbu. Exceptions are the middle peak of the Torfinnstindane, and Søre nål at Knutsegg on the other side of Svartdalen. A good trip guide has been published for this area, in the event further information is needed. During the summertime, it is also a good idea to combine the day trip from Torfinnsbu with a boat outing on Bygdin. This opens for even more exciting trips off the shores of Jotunheimen's largest lake. Access There is a shuttle boat at Bygdin all summer long, and there are marked hiking trails to Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Gjendebu, Valdresflya hostel and Bygdin høyfjellshotell. Facts Torfinnsbu has hosted tourists since 1905; its forerunner, Nybod, since 1870. Owner: Arvid Skredbergene. The lodge is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1060 meters above sea level, and has 36 beds. Tel.: 958 83 398. Yksendalsbu New lodge, But Old Route Yksendalen is green and beautiful, stretching from Olefjorden south of Bygdin and ten kilometers west toward Steinbusjøen. It is no wonder that the valley was used as a gateway to Jotunheimen already in hiking tourism's infancy. Most visitors to the lushness of Yksendalen, however, were not two-legged, but rather four-legged. As the name suggests, this was pastureland for cattle. It is probable that the valley was used for grazing already at the turn of the previous century. Several herds grazed in the valley, and at most, there may have been as many as 100 full-grown bulls here. Yksendalsbua provided shelter for the herders of Oppland Agricultural Coop who tended the breeding bulls from Valdres and Vestoppland. They were sent to pasture for fattening and to prepare for new tasks that lay ahead during the fall and winter. But modern times brought new needs. Veterinaries, test tubes and artificial insemination gradually superseded lusty bulls, and the need for mountain pasture wilted away. Sometime after the war, grazing in Yksendalen was a thing of the past. The needs of two-legged wanderers also changed as communications developed. The mountain farm quarters were abandoned and the trails became overgrown. During the 1980's, proposals were made to reopen this excellent gateway to Jotunheimen, but to accomplish this, new overnight accommodations would be needed. It wasn't until real estate magnate Olav Thon made a generous donation to DNT that things got started. DNT was lucky enough to be able to lease the old cattle herders quarters in Yksendalen. It was an ideal place for a tourist lodge, because it was located about midway between Beitostølen and Fondsbu. It was thoroughly renovated, and a convenient annex was built nearby. In February 1994, the lodge was ready to begin hosting its first guests. Already the first winter, there were well over a hundred persons who found their way to Yksendalen. During recent years, even more have become aware of the route to Fondsbu via this approach. Parts of the route are pure paradise, especially from Yksendalsbua and across to Vennistøldalen. It is also beautiful along the newly marked route to Bygdin Mountain Hotel on the ridge between Olefjorden and Bygdin. Beitostølen Beitostølen as a tourist site is a relatively recent development. For many years this was a regular mountain farm settlement, active during the summer and quiet during the winter. Only occasionally the silence was broken by a lonesome grouse hunter or a farmer who needed to come to the summer farm to get a load of hay. The road from the valley up to Beitostølen was snow plowed for the first time in 1934, and it would be another 30 years before the first ski lift would be built. Today there is teeming activity at Beitostølen almost year round. There are countless private cabins here, and in the area one finds high mountain hotels, mountain lodges and rental cabins with a total of more than 2000 beds. There are six ski lifts and more than 100 kilometers of marked skiing trails. During the summer, Beitostølen is also a good starting point for trips in through Jotunheimen. None of the marked trails has been completed all the way to the destination, but you don't need to go any farther than to Bygdin or Gjende to be able to hike along T-marked trails. Facts Beitostølen Tourist Office can provide further information. Tel.: 61 34 10 06. E-mail: turistko@online.no The following places offer overnight accommodations at Beitostølen and environs. Beitostølen Høyfjellshotell, approx. 200 beds, 9 rental cabins, Tel. 61 34 13 00, E-mail: booking@beito.no Beitostølen Camping, rental cabins, Tel.: 61 34 11 00, E-mail: info@beitocamp.no Bergo Hotell, 66 beds, 12 rental cabins and 35 apartments, Tel.: 61 34 10 45, E-mail: booking@bergo.no Bitigrenda hytter, 15 cabins and 4 apartments, Tel.: 61 34 14 40, E-mail: bitihyt@online.no Gjeste gården resort, 30 apartments, Tel.: 61 34 12 72, E-mail: konferansehuset@ol.telia.no Kveto fjellgard, 4 cabins, Tel.: 61 34 15 52/905 46 826. Liahaugen cabins, Tel.: 61 34 12 69. Norlandia Bitihorn hotell, approx. 100 beds, Tel.: 61 34 10 43 service@bitihorn.norlandia.no Feriehyttene, 19 cabins, Tel.: 61 34 10 44. Fjellvang hyttegrend, Beito, 4 cabins, Tel.: 61 34 10 14, E-mail: kolykken@online.no Grønolen fjellgård, Beito, 50 beds, 8 apartments, Tel.: 61 35 29 90, E-mail: gronolen@gronolen.no Hegge leiligheter, 32 apartments, 16 cabins, Tel.: 61 35 21 00, E-mail: marogne@online.no Knuts hyttegrend, 22 cabins and apartments, Tel.: 61 34 10 09, E-mail: knutshyt@online.no Radisson SAS Resort, approx. 300 beds, 6 rental cabins, Tel.: 6135 20 00, E-mail: info@resort-beito.com Øyang turisthotell, Beito, ca 120 beds, Tel.: 61 34 11 21, E-mail: beito@online.no Tyinholmen høyfjellstuer Access Automobile road past the lodge. Marked hiking trails to Skogadalsbøen, Vettismorki and Slettningsbu. Facts Tyinholmen høyfjellstuer has hosted tourists since 1893. Owners: Inger Sagstuen and Erling Olsen. The lodge is located in Vang municipality in Oppland, 1080 meters above sea level, and has 65 beds in rental cabins. Tel.: 61 36 78 88. Memurubu See description in pamphlet 1 Access There is a shuttle boat at Gjende all summer long, and there are marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim, Glitterheim and Gjendebu. Facts Memurubu was opened in 1870 by DNT. In 1893, the private tourist lodge was formally opened. Owner and manager: Kjetil Sveine. The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1007 meters above sea level, and has 150 beds. Tel.: 61 23 89 99. Gjendebu See description in pamphlet 1. Access There is a shuttle boat at Gjende all summer long, and there are marked hiking trails to Memurubu, Leirvassbu, Spiterstulen, Olavsbu, Fondsbu and Torfinnsbu. Facts Gjendebu was formally opened in 1871. Owner: DNT OA. Managers: Aase and Håkon Dalen. The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 990 meters above sea level, and has 119 beds, including 34 beds in the self-service quarters. Tel.: 61 23 89 44. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Gjendesheim See description in pamphlet 1. Access Automobile road and bus connections to the lodge. Marked hiking trails to Bessheim, Glitterheim, Memurubu, Haugseter and Sikkilsdalsseter. Facts Gjendesheim was opened in 1878. Owner: DNT OA. Managers: Bjørg Aaseng and Olav Gaute Vole. The lodge is located in Vågå municipality in Oppland, 995 meters above sea level, and has 185 beds. Tel.: 61 23 89 10. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» E-mail: gjheim@online.no Bygdin Fjellhotell Access State Highway 55 over Valdresflya passes the hotel. There is a shuttle boat route at Bygdin and there are marked hiking trails to Torfinnsbu and Yksendalsbu. The one to Yksendalsbu starts from the road a couple kilometers south of the hotel. Facts Bygdin Fjellhotell was formally opened approx. 1900. Owner and manager: Per Otterness. The hotel is located in Vang municipality, 1060 meters above sea level, and has 90 beds. Tel.: 61 34 14 00. Maurvangen Camping Access Automobile road past the campgrounds and bus connections. Marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim and Sikkilsdalsseter. Facts Maurvangen Camping has hosted guests since 1976. Owner: Else Reiremo. The camping grounds are located in Vågå municipality in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 26 rental cabins. Tel.: 61 23 89 22. Valdresflya vandrerhjem Access State Highway 51 over Valdresflya passes the hostel. There are marked hiking trails to Torfinnsbu and partially marked to Gjendesheim. Facts Valdresflya hostel was formally opened in 1952. Owner: Norwegian Family and Youth Hostels, eastern region The hostel is located in Øystre Slidre municipality Oppland, 1390 meters above sea level, and has 46 beds. Tel.: Norwegian Family and Youth Hostels, eastern region: 22 15 21 85, E-mail: vhregost@os.enitel.no Tel. hostel, in season: 941 07 021. Choose Your Trip According to Appetite Setting up an appropriate hiking trip is in many ways like composing a successful dinner menu. It is wise to begin with a little appetizer to prepare the body for the main course, and it is always good to have a dessert, as a kind of reward for having completed the task. In choosing the trip proposals in these pamphlets, I have tried to keep this in mind. The trips need to be varied and have some peak moments in more than the literal sense along the way. Hopefully, I have succeeded. In any event, there is enough from which to choose, whether one prefers several appetizers, copious main courses or tempting desserts. The various trip menus are designed so that you can do them in the opposite direction, or combine parts of different menus to make your own version. In terms of the details in the trip menus, the length of the suggested legs is given in hours. For novices in the mountains, this may seem a little strange. But that is how things are in the Norwegian mountains, as well. The terrain is so diverse that meters and kilometers become misleading. It makes no sense to compare a thousand meters of steep, rocky hillside in Jotunheimen with a one-kilometer stroll through Frogner Park. The time that an average hiker can expect to spend is much more informative for the majority of us. The number of hours and an overview of the marked trails are also indicated on the map in the back of the pamphlet. As you read the various trip proposals, you should have one finger on the map. The description of the route will be much more informative if you do so. If you want to learn more about an area you want to explore, you should become a member of DNT and get hold of On Foot in Norway. All of the marked routes are described here, and the book also contains much information about Jotunheimen and other mountain areas. Before you get started choosing your tour menu, there's just one more thing: Remember that it is fine to eat your fill, but uncomfortable when you overeat. Degree of difficulty of the trips g = EASY gg = AVERAGE ggg = STRENUOUS Varied Trip South of Bygdin Trip 2a - 2 days - gg In hiking tourism's infancy, many made the trip into Jotunheimen from Beitostølen, through the lovely natural surroundings of Yksendalen and past Skinneggin to Eidsbugarden. Taking this route in the opposite direction is just as breathtaking, however. In many places, there is a fantastic view toward the mountains of Jotunheimen. The route is newly marked and goes to Bygdin Hotel. With the road to Eidsbugarden and the shuttle boat on Bygdin Lake, this can be an excellent little round trip. If you have several days, it may be a good idea to continue around Bygdin via Torfinnsbu. See Trip 2c. 1. Fondsbu to Yksendalsbu The trip starts with an even and pleasant uphill climb along a wide, good path up toward Vennestølsdalen. After a little more than a kilometer, the trail forks, and the widest path continues toward Utsikten at Skinnegga (see box). It is obvious that the trip up here is popular, and the side trip is short enough that you can take it, as well. The trip through Vennistølsdalen begins over some nice grassy slopes and eventually through some hilly terrain and some boulders and rocky scree. Fortunately, there are good rock pile markers along the way. The course continues along the south side of Dryllin and steeply down into Vølodalen. You will have to cross some willow thickets on the valley floor, and the path may be a little difficult to find, so follow the markings carefully. River Vøloa can normally be crossed by stepping from stone to stone. The route continues along the shoreline of the lake south of Vølohornet, and here there is also some rocky scree. After that, you will have to go uphill again over Vareggene, but then the route goes steeply downhill into the green Yksendalen valley. When one sees the lushness this valley has to offer, it is easy to see why this was a former paradise for grazing bulls. It has been a long time, however, since tourists were frightened by such beasts, and today the old cattle herders' quarters have been taken over by DNT as lodging for hikers. The trail markings for the last segment up to the lodge are a little peculiar. There is little stone in the area, but lots of underbrush, so the path is marked with stakes marked with red. 2. Yksendalsbu to Bygdin In contrast to the old days, tourist hikers no longer need to fear the bulls of Yksendalen, so on your next day, you will be able to concentrate on the view and on keeping on course. Since the trail is relatively new in many places, the pathway is not as clearly worn all the way, and it pays to carefully follow the map and the trail markers. The route goes first west and toward Skamdalen, where there is a fork in the trail. The path to the right is the old one that is no longer used after Olefjorden was dammed up. You must continue northeast toward Systerbottjernet and then, a little south of this, toward the east to Skjeldrehornet, across Oleberga and north around Bergaåntjern to Marabotthornet. Along the way, you will pass a nice little ridge with a good view to both the south and north; it is an excellent spot to stop for a rest. From the top of Marabotthornet, the course runs evenly downward toward Seksin, and then along the southern side of this and east along the mountain side, with a good view of Raudfjorden. Bitihorn, 1607 meters above sea level (you really must visit this peak once!), is passed on the northern side, and soon you are down on the state highway, which you follow a little over a kilometer north to Bygdin Mountain Hotel. Skinnegga - Can you recall the View from Skineggen that morning? When the white Mist drifted away between Skagastøstindane, and the Kaldedal glaciers glittered like Gold in the radiance of the sun! Woe is me in the thought that I will not go there in the summertime!, sighed Aasmund Olavsson Vinje to his friend Sars as he lay deathly ill at the National Hospital in 1870, and he added: But when I am laid in the Coffin, my Soul will revisit its Home up yonder between the Mountains, and I will sit atop Falketind and gaze out over Norway, and the range of Mountains will emerge into view. Skinnegga is a good example of the fact that height is not always what counts in Jotunheimen. Utsikten, below the peak, is only 1518 meters in altitude and is located only a few kilometers south of Fondsbu. It is easily reached on an afternoon outing or side trip from the route over to Yksendalsbu. Length Fondsbu - Yksendalsbu, 6 hrs. Yksendalsbu - Bygdin, 7 hrs. Overnight Accommodations Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Bygdin Fjellhotell, several other places at Beitostølen. Communications Automobile route and bus route to Fondsbu; likewise past Bygdin Fjellhotell. Shuttle boat route at Bygdin. Popular round trip between great mountain peaks Trip 2b - 3 days - gg Fondsbu is DNT's most recent staffed lodge in Jotunheimen, Gjendebu the oldest self-service lodge. A round trip to these through relatively easy terrain with a number of opportunities for side trips to the great peaks, is popular. 1. Fondsbu to Olavsbu The first half kilometer goes along a gravel road. It passes the restored Vinjebua and crosses Mjølkedøla bridge before the path bears upward along the river. As you follow it, you will soon discover how Mjølkedøla got its name. If not completely white, it is practically grayish white during periods when the melting ice from the glacier is most profuse. Up on the crest of the hill before the large Mjølkedal Lake, you will enter Jotunheimen National Park and experience a breathtaking panorama. The route continues on the eastern side of the lake, into a small valley and up into the gorge between Høgbrothøgda and Mjølkedalstind. Before the gorge, you will pass two intersections to the trail: first is the route to Skogadalsbøen bearing off to the left, and after a few hundred meters, the route from Gjendebu merges in from the right and continues down the mountainside, where it joins the trail toward Skogadalsbøen. You, however, will continue over the gorge, down toward upper Sjogholsvatnet, and go through some rocky scree between Mjølkedalstind and Sjogholstind. From there, there is still more scree all the way to Olavsbu, but the view is wonderful, and the lodge is situated in an extraordinarily splendid location. 2. Olavsbu to Gjendebu The route to Gjendebu is very easy and pleasant. Except for some rocky portions and old snow that often lingers over the summer at this mountain altitude, it is a good path that is well marked throughout all of Raudalen to Grisletjørnene. The route goes around the southern pond and meets the first route from Skogadalsbøen, and after a little more than a kilometer, the second route from Fondsbu, as well. Up in Raudalen, vegetation is rather sparse, but as you come down into Vesleådalen, nature makes up for this abundantly. The birch woods are dense along the path, and people interested in botany will even find thermophilic plants in this area, even though the altitude is well over 100 meters above sea level. This says a lot about the growing conditions around Gjende. Especially during the pre-summer season. At this time of year, bird life is at its most intense period; a number of species nest in this area. The last kilometer as far as the lodge goes over a flat delta that has been built up with deposits from the Storåa and Vesleåa rivers. The delta's front expands forward year by year, and it won't be many years before it will no longer be possible to tie up row boats at Gjendebu. The pier for the shuttle boat at Gjende was long ago moved further out. Just before the lodge, Storåa river is crossed via a solid bridge. Take a look at the rapids, and you will understand why the river has the power to carry with it so much silt and loose stone from the mountains above. 3. Gjendebu to Fondsbu If you want to complete a round trip returning to Fondsbu, there are several alternatives from which to choose. There are marked trails to Torfinnsbu and on to Fondsbu, and it is possible to take the boat on Bygdin Lake. The shortest route, however, runs back the way you came, i.e. up Veslådalen. Uppermost in the valley, north of the hillcrest that bears the appropriate name Rundtom, the path divides. The routes toward Olavsbu and Skogadalsbøen bear to the right; the one to Fondsbu continues straight ahead. If you want to follow an alternative route to Fondsbu, one that is even shorter, you have to go to the right. The old postal route over to Fondsbu passes Geithø on the northern side and heads directly toward Fondsbu. The postal road is marked on the map, but no longer in the terrain itself, so you will need to be able read a map in order to follow this route. It is quite steep toward the end, down toward Fondsbu. The T-marked route continues along the southern side of Geithø toward Høystakktjernet. The stream from the pond is crossed via a bridge below the outlet; from there the trail descends steeply down to Bygdin. For the last kilometers to Fondsbu, the route runs along the shoreline of Bygdin Lake. Trips to the Summits Around Olavsbu Stop over a day or three at Olavsby. If you plan to go to Mjølkedalstind, Sjogholstind, Skardalstind or Raudalstindane, you can hardly find a better starting point. Even at a self-service lodge, it is possible to stay several days, providing you show common courtesy to other guests. At Olavsbu, by the way, there is a host most of the summer who can provide you with practical information. The trip to Mjølkedalstind is described in pamphlet 3, and Raudalsegga is presented in the description of the Olavsbu Lodge on page 9. Reaching the top of Sjogholstind is also possible for all who are normally accustomed to mountain hiking. It starts from the foot trail through the gorge on the northwestern side and follows the ridge to the summit. Skardalstind is also a nice mountaintop. The starting point for ascending it is Raudalsbandet on the route over toward Leirvassbu. From there, you simply set your sights on reaching the top and scale up the mountainside. If you want to go to eastern Raudalstind, it is smart to begin from Raudalsbandet, but to complete the trip, you will need the map in pamphlet 3. Trips Around Fondsbu Besides Skinnegga (see Trip 2a), Galdeberget on the other side of Bygdin Lake, is the most usual destination for people who stay at Fondsbu or Eidsbugarden. The trip starts along the lake and DNT's rock pile markers over toward Gjendebu. After crossing the bridge at Høystakktjernet, you simply keep your course right up to the top at 2075 meters. Most people, however, prefer first to go up to the underlying ridge at 1950 meters. It towers steeply over Bygdin and provides a view at least as wonderful as from the summit itself. The return trip from Galdeberget can be done along the stone marked route through Oksedalen. But rather than follow the Gjendeby trail back, a nice trip is to go around Grønebergtjernet and follow the old postal route over Gravafjellet and down to the lodge. The postal route, by the way, is also good to follow if you want to visit the 1630-meter tall Høgebrotet. As far as I know, this peak is the only place in Jotunheimen that has a panorama of Bygdin, Tyin and Gjende at the same time, in clear weather conditions. The area around Fondsbu of course contains much more than these few suggestions. In pamphlet 3, you will find more suggestions: otherwise, it's merely a question of using your map and imagination, and of not overestimating your abilities. Day Trips from Gjendebu A nature enthusiast will love all of the fantastic opportunities for trips that are available around Gjendebu. A favorite of many is the trip up Gjendestunga. The summit is located between Vesleådalen and Storådalen and is just 1516 meters high, but with quite a view - one sees peaks and glaciers in the entire southern portion of Jotunheimen. The view from Svardalspiggen's 2137-meter summit is even better, if that is possible, but then the trip up is at least twice as long as the one up Gjendestunga. The trip is not especially difficult, however. Follow the route toward Torfinnsbu up in Svartdalen. Where the valley begins to flatten out, one goes diagonally up to the right and up onto the ridge. There is some loose scree and it is somewhat slippery, but otherwise all right. Follow the ridge up, across a snowdrift, and farther on to the stone pile marker at the top. «Jotunologist» Emanuel Mohn thought that the view from Svartdalspiggen was the most beautiful he had seen in Jotunheimen. « There is surely no other lookout point from which one can view over such a short stretch a comparable teeming throng of sharp needle points?» On the other side of the valley lies Store Knutsholstind at 2343 meters. Before it was conquered for the first time by Johannes Th. Heftye in 1875, the peak was considered to be insurmountable, but today it is considered a hiking trip, although steep and breezy. Try it yourself, but be careful. If you would rather take a closer look at Jo Gjende's old lodging on the other side of Gjende, or to study plant life around Gjendebu, instead of the high mountains, then neither of these would be a bad alternative. Length Fondsbu - Olavsbu, 5 hrs. Gjendebu - Olavsbu, 5 hrs. Gjendebu - Fondsbu, 5 hrs. Overnight Accommodations Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Olavsbu and Gjendebu. Communications To Fondsbu and Eidsbugarden, there is an automobile road and a bus route, as well as a shuttle boa ton Bygdin Lake. To Gjendebu, there is a shuttle boat on Gjende. Bygdin Lengthwise Trip 2c - 3 days - g-gg This is a varied and pleasant trip that runs both along the shoreline of Bygdin and up to 1700 meters between the great peaks north of the lake. The trip may be combined with Trip 2a as an excursion around all of Bygdin. A good alternative is also to continue along the partially marked route from Valdresflya VH to Gjendesheim, or also to take the bus across Valdresflya. From Gjendesheim, you can hike back to Fondsbu along Gjende, and thereby be able to see both of these beautiful mountain lakes. 1. Fondsbu to Torfinnsbu The trip starts easily with a little more than four kilometers of hiking along Bygdin's west end on the main route toward Gjendebu. After that it goes steeply up toward Høystakka and over the pond by bridge. After another couple of kilometers, the route curves to the right into Oksedalen. The valley could not possibly have gotten its name for lush pastures for cattle; there is too much scree and stone here for that. The route ascends evenly and nicely up toward the pond innermost in the valley, and then it gets steeper over the gorge and down to Galdebergstjern. There is often a large snowdrift in the gorge, so be careful. The brook at the outlet from Galdebergstjern can be waded across of crossed by stepping from stone to stone, depending on how high the water is. The route continues slackly out towards Langedalen and down along the river through the valley. Langedalsåna is crossed via a footbridge, and after a little less than a kilometer, you will arrive down at Nybua, the forerunner of Torfinnsbua. From there it is an easy and pleasant hike along the shoreline of Bygdin to Torfinnsbu. 2. Torfinnsbu to Valdresflya VH or Bygdin Fjellhotell There are at least two alternatives for the trip the next day, either to Valdresflya vandrerhjem (VH) or to Bygdin Fjellhotell. The latter trip is about one hour shorter. The first five kilometers or so are in common. After crossing Torfinnsdøla by bridge, the path goes generally along the edge of the water at Bygdin the entire way. It does cross a number of brooks, some of them by bridge; one of the larger ones is at Hestevollen. When you arrive here, you will quickly see that this must have been a place that horses enjoyed, and it is an excellent spot to stop for a rest for us humans, as well. A little bit before Dymesodden, the path divides. The branch to the left goes up in an even and steady ascent toward Valdresflya VH. The right alternative continues to follow Bygdin's shoreline to Bygdisheim, which is unfortunately abandoned as a place to spend the night. This is the end of the line for Bygdin proper also, but because of regulation, the lake continues all the way to Bygdin Fjellhotell. The last few kilometers to the hotel will have to be hiked along a road, but it is fortunately closed to motorized traffic. Bygdin Bygdin covers a total of 46 km2, is 28 km long and up to 2 km wide. Thus, it is Jotunheimen's largest lake. It was named for its elongated, curved shape. M/B Bitihorn In 1905, the same year that Nybod was formally opened, a passenger boat came to Bygdin. The boat was actually purchased for use on Tyin, and the idea was to transport the boat first to Bygdin and then over the eddy from Eidsbugarden to Tyin, but the process took too long a time and was too expensive. Instead, it was decided to put the boat in traffic on Bygdin Lake. Tyin got its first motor boat in 1906. Before passenger boat service began, the alternative was to rent a row boat and rowers for the tourists who wanted to travel the length of Bygdin without having to walk. In 1912, the modern-day craft M/B Bitihorn was put in service, and after a few years, it was unsurpassed at Bygdin. All summer long, it makes the round trip on the lake. Thanks to the boat route, it is possible to expand the activity radius significantly when you hike in this area. The boat trip in itself is a nice experience. Especially Torfinnstindane makes a great impression seen from down at Bygdin. Length Torfinnsbu - Fondsbu, 7 hrs. Torfinnsbu - Valdresflya VH, 4 hrs. Torfinnsbu - Bygdin Fjellhotell, 3 hrs. Overnight Accommodations Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Torfinnsbu, Bygdin Fjellhotell and Valdresflya vandrerhjem (VH). Communications There is an automobile road and bus routes to Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Valdresflya VH and Bygdin Fjellhotell. There is a shuttle boat on Bygdin Lake. Wilderness Trip in Leirungsdalen 1 or more days - Trip 2d - gg-ggg The marked route through spectacular Leirungsdalen south of Gjende is unfortunately no longer in use. In Jotunheimen National Park, the innermost portion of the valley has been assigned status as an untamed wilderness, and because of that, the markings on the trail had to be removed. This does not entail a ban on hiking in the area, but means that here hikers must use a map and compass to find their bearings. The trip from Gjendesheim through the valley and then down to Torfinnsbu or Gjendebu through Svardalen is a long one. You should expect to spend 8-9 hours, but if you are in reasonably good physical shape, this is not difficult to accomplish. It is unwise, however, to hurry. Instead, bring a tent, spend the night in Leirungsdalen and take a trip or three to the summits that rise like a string of pearls on both sides of the valley. The first part of the route from Gjendesheim is described in Tour 2e. In addition, the old trail is marked on the map. It goes past Leirungene, straight across the lower portion of Leirungsdalen (and there is a bridge over the river), past Svarthammarbua and along the northern side of Leirungsåa all the way up toward the gorge in the direction of Svartdalen. A much used alternative for those who visit the valley is also to park on the road over Valdresflya, at about the area marked with number 51, and then hike over the ravine south of Rauhamrane and into Leirungsdalen. There is an excellent tenting site, by the way, in the Steindalen canyon. During the war, German alpine troops camped here, and you can still see the circular foundations where their tents stood. Steindalen is also an excellent starting point for the trip up Munken ridge and on through Kalvåhøgda. On the other side of the valley, both Høgebrotet and Tjørnholstind are conveniently located for day trips, and the western Leirungstind highest up in the valley is also a peak that can be reached without mountain climbing skills. There is so much here, that one can simply pick and choose. The hiking guide for the mountains between Bygdin and Gjende (Thommessen and Vigerust, Valdres Publishing Company) describes a number of trips to the summits around the valley. Length Gjendesheim - Torfinnsbu or Gjendebu, 8-9 hrs. Trails marked only in Svartdalen. Overnight Accommodations Gjendesheim, Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu or tent camping in Leirungsdalen. Communications Automobile road and bus routes to Gjendesheim and across Valdresflya. Shuttle boat routes to Torfinnsbu and Gjendebu. Across Valdresflya to Gausdal Vestfjell 1 day - Trip 2e - gg 1. Gjendesheim to Haugseter Gjendesheim is not only the gateway to Jotunheimen. From here it is also a good idea to start your trip into Gausdal Vestfjell. The route over to Haugseter has been marked very recently, goes through impressive natural surroundings and is a spectacular start in this area of the mountains. The trip begins near Jo Gjende's lodge on the southern side of Gjendeoset. You can ask the locals at Gjendesheim for transportation across the river. If you come from the other direction, there is a signal horn mounted on the river bank for signaling that you need transportation over the river. You will cross the road over Valdresflya after you pass the beautiful Lower Leirungen Lake. After that, the trail runs evenly up the hillside and past northern and southern Brurskarknappen, past Brurskartjørni and down to the upper Heimdalsvatnet along Sandbakkbekken. Down at the lake, you might want to take a dip or maybe cast a line out for trout. Swimming is permitted, however fishing is strictly forbidden. Upper Heimdalsvatnet is a lake for scientific research and is used by the university to research fish life in high mountain lakes. The route continues along the shore of the lake to the outlet at the east end, which is usually easy to wade across. Then it is uphill again, across the eastern end of Valdresflya and in between the striking twin peaks, East and West Gluptinden. From here, it's downhill all the way along Urekåni and down to Jotunheim road, where Haugseter is located on the other side of the road. The scope of this pamphlet dictates that your trip stops here, but this is actually just the beginning for hiking opportunities in Gausdal Vestfjell. From Haugseter there are marked routes to both Storeskag and Oskampen. If you want to return to Gjendesheim and have a few days at your disposal, you may choose the following route, for example: Oskampen - Sikkilsdalsseter - Gjendesheim. This is an excellent round trip. Contact DNT for further information. Length Gjendesheim - Haugseter, 7 hrs. Overnight Accommodations Gjendesheim and Haugseter. Communications Automobile road and bus routes to Gjendesheim. Automobile road to Haugseter. Dear mountain hiker, Welcome to Jotunheimen! The mountains between Sognefjord and Valdresflya, Breheimen and Skarvheimen encompass the entire spectrum of Norwegian mountain nature. There are enormous glaciers here, and an array of peaks taller than 2000 meters that is greater than in any other place in the country; there are deep valleys and expansive plains here, and here one finds extremely varied flora and fauna. To cover all of this at one time is obviously impossible, but even if you have only a weekend to spend, you will be able to experience a good sampling. Whether you want to hike from lodge to lodge, or make one place your home base and take day trips, there are plenty of choices. These four pamphlets provide some examples of Jotunheimen's multiple diversity, whether it is nature, culture or hiking opportunities that appeals to you most. The pamphlets contain the most essential information you will need in order to enjoy Jotunheimen: a little bit about the history and natural surroundings, a presentation of places where you can spend the night, helpful suggestions for trips, tips on weather and equipment and advice on what you should do in case of an accident? It is up to you to choose a trip that is appropriate for your physical condition and experience - and to use your head along the way. If you do this, you will hopefully have a good experience in Jotunheimen and come back again. Have a nice trip! Best regards, Per Roger Lauritzen From Hunting to Tourism Both weapons and the remnants of hunting pits have been found, confirming that reindeer were hunted in Jotunheimen already several thousand years ago. Mountain legends and myths also reveal that this mountain area was important in our forefathers' consciousness, and arrowheads located high in the mountains make it clear that even a trip to the highest peaks did not daunt them. The first primitive mountain pasture farms in Jotunheimen were probably built already before the 1300's. They were crudely put together with rough logs or stones piled up to provide shelter at night for the herders. Their animals had to manage out of doors for many centuries to come, but at nighttime, it was wise to gather the livestock in a fold. Bear and wolf packs were abundant and aggressive. The first high mountain farms probably emerged as the result of ever increasing grazing needs down in the valleys and possibly also out of the desire to combine hunting and trapping with animal husbandry in the mountains. Long distances and miserable conditions for spending the night were justified by the lush expanses of pasture and the fine conditions for livestock throughout the long summer. Indeed, even during winter there were people at many of the mountain farms, especially in Sjodalen. Many farms sent their livestock to the mountains again during the late fall so that they could make use of the feed laid up in the mountains. Already during the Middle Ages, the custom of sending animals to fatten in the mountains before slaughtering probably began. Buyers traveled around in the rural areas and bought up animals. During late spring, these were gathered together in large herds and taken to the mountains to fatten up on the rich grazing land that was found many places, such as, for example, around Bygdin Lake and in Leirungsdalen. During the fall, the livestock were herded to town and sold for slaughter. To clear and cultivate new land, be a dairymaid, hired hand or reindeer hunter in Jotunheimen in these days entailed a harder existence than people of today can imagine, and it is rather doubtful that our forefathers regarded the mountains as a fairytale-like kingdom. Still, we can assume that they also had an eye for beauty and the diversity of nature in Jotunheimen. At any rate, the tales of feats and adventures in the mountains that live on today in the rural communities bear witness to the fact that nature was highly revered. At the beginning of the 1800's, the first scientists and artists found their way to Jotunheimen. A few English tourists also followed, but the first true Norwegian tourist didn't arrive until 1854. This was Axel Arbo, who had hiked through Utladalen in 1854 and who, a year later, climbed Galdhøpiggen. The first tourist who entered the «Jotunfjeldene», which was the term used before Aasmund Olavsson Vinje introduced the catchier name «Fjøllstaven min» in 1862, had to resort to the few mountain farms here in order to find shelter. Those that were visited most often were a number that have since developed into large, popular tourist lodges. The private lodges of Spiterstulen, Memurubu and Leirvassbu, and DNT's Gjendebu and Skogadalsbøen can trace their roots back to the mid-1800's or earlier. In 1874, the first T-marked route in Norway opened from Besseter in Sjodalen via Besseggen, to Memurubu. Today, Jotunheimen is the mountain area in the country that attracts the largest number of hikers. More than 30 000 each summer follow in Peer Gynt's footsteps over Besseggen. Galdhøpiggen and Glittertind are also veritable magnets, and the peaks west in Hurrungane tempt many climbers and glacier hikers to try their skills. Since the first stone-marked route was established, the trail network has come to comprise 650 kilometers. During the winter, especially around Easter, DNT and the private tourist lodges mark out nearly 570 kilometers of skiing trails. If you want to hike along marked routes and spend nights in pleasant lodges in beautiful mountain surroundings, then Jotunheimen has every possible choice. If you want to avoid both the marked routes and the lodges, this is not a problem, either; here there is still enough room for those who want open spaces, quiet and personal challenges. Norwegian Mountain Museum A visit to the Norwegian Mountain Museum in Lom provides a good overview of the natural environment and people's use of the Jotunheimen mountains up through history. DNT has collected equipment and documentation on the history of mountain tourism and the association, and these are included in the museum's exhibits. The museum has the status of center for the Jotunheimen National Park and also houses Lom's tourist information office. Diverse Flora and Fauna The rock species that Jotunheimen is composed of are about a billion years old and were pushed together by tremendous natural forces about 400 million years ago. Since then, water, ice, wind and weather have formed and shaped the landscape we see today in a process that continues constantly. The area encompasses the entire spectrum of topography from sheer, barren peaks and large glaciers to deep valleys and fertile hillsides. The forces of erosion have created good soil in many places, and since precipitation and sunshine are generally abundant, conditions are favorable in many spots for plants to grow and thrive. Altitudes and temperatures vary greatly, of course, and because of this, the variations in flora are naturally great. At places such as Vettismorki and in Sjodalen, stalwart and stocky core pines stand lined up, and on a trip through Utladalen on a warm summer day, you will find the kind of lushness that is more often associated with more southern climes. Also contributing to the diversity of species and excitement of the mountains, is the fact that both bird cherry and wild strawberries grow along the banks of Gjende. Here, too, twisted mountain birch trees stretch their light green crowns toward the skyline at higher altitudes than in other places in the country, up to around 1200 meters! A number of our flowering plants also hold records for altitude along Gjende, and the mixture of thermophilic lowland flora and purely alpine flora is unique. Here you can find orchids such as the Lesser Butterfly-orchid and the Fragrant Orchid side by side with high mountain plants such as Purple Saxifrage and the Alpine Azalea. The latter species may also be found on the barren mountaintops. The record for altitude, however, is held by the Glacier Buttercup; it noddingly greets you 2370 meters above sea level. Varied plant life provides the basis for varied animal life. The most characteristic animal is the wild reindeer. There was probably a very plentiful herd that first attracted our pelt-clad forefathers into Jotunheimen. For many generations, reindeer hunting was very important; a fact corroborated by remnants from hunting pits and guiding fences. Reindeer hunting pits were in use at least until 1624. That year, Kristian IV banned pit-hunting, but in certain places they probably continued to be used until the 1800's. With the advent of modern hunting weapons and at the same time the introduction of domesticated reindeer, the stocks of wild reindeer decreased dramatically. The keeping of domestic reindeer caused a lot of bad blood between hunters and those who kept domesticated herds. Many a domestic reindeer was shot by people who didn't bother much about earmarks, and many of them ran off with the wild herds of reindeer. Today there are a few thousand domestic reindeer east in Jotunheimen, while the wild reindeer remain in the west. These gracious animals are also hunted there. In the valley regions on the outskirts of Jotunheimen, there are permanent herds of moose, for example in Utladalen, Veodalen, and Sjodalen and along Gjende. Red deer and roe deer have so far been seen only in Utladalen. In modern times, predatory animals are seldom encountered, but in earlier times, they had their haven in Jotunheimen. Utladalen, among other places, was known for its sizeable bear population. Hunting for bear was actually the most important source of income for the people at the Vormeli mountain farm. In recent times, only occasional traces of bear, wolverines and lynx have been seen in Jotunheimen. On the other hand, the smaller predators, such as mink, the short-tailed and the European weasels, and red foxes are common, while the arctic fox has unfortunately almost disappeared from the mountain area, as well. Among rodents, there are mountain hares, rats and lemmings, but the stocks fluctuate dramatically. Bird life in this type of mountain environment is what one might expect. The rough-legged hawk is the most common bird of prey, but there are also a few eagles, especially to the west. The same is true of several other falcon species. The most common members of the bird stock here are the willow warbler, the redpoll, the snow bunting, the meadow pipit and the brambling. There are also ducks in the area, especially the teal and the goldeneye, and an occasional arctic loon also stops by. Besides this, Jotunheimen is like many other mountain areas: there are more and more seagulls. In the wintertime, ravens are especially abundant. In terms of fish, there are only trout, and the stock varies a lot. Generally speaking, fishing is no longer what it once was. Come as you are - and go whenever you choose The unique thing about mountain tourist lodges is that you do not have to reserve a place in advance, and you will not be turned away even when the lodge is full. If all the beds are taken, you will still be accommodated, if only with a mattress in a corner of the room. Whether you will be served a meal or will have to use the kitchen facilities in the cabin to prepare your own food that you brought along in your rucksack, varies from place to place, but you will be able to put something in your stomach either way. The arrangement offers complete freedom. Pack your rucksack, travel to the mountains and start hiking. Let your desires and the weather conditions dictate your course, rather than a reservation form. In the mountains, you can come as you are and leave whenever you want, provided you act reasonably and choose a trip appropriate to your abilities. On the next pages, the various tourist lodges in Jotunheimen are presented. It is hoped that this presentation will enrich your trip, and that you will also discover that it is not unwise to let your desire to experience different types of lodgings decide your route for you. There are ample choices: Do you want to stay at a staffed lodge, or do you want to make your own arrangements? Do you want to meet a lot of other tourists, or would you prefer to be on your own? Would you like to dance Norwegian folk dances in the evening, or sit alone on the doorstep and let the sunset color your imagination? Do you want to stay in an old mountain farmhouse or in a new building with all the comforts? And who said that you have to wander from lodge to lodge? At most of them, you can stop a few days and become better acquainted with the lodge and the surroundings. Choices are numerous, and whatever you choose, you will discover that the great majority of the tourist lodges have both soul and style, and that they are far more than just a place to eat and sleep before you continue your trip. Three types of Lodging In the mountain areas covered by this book, there are three different categories of tourist lodging. Staffed lodges have their own hosts who serve all meals. Some of these are open almost year round, but most of them are limited to a few weeks around Easter and during the summer up until mid-September. Self-service lodges are fully equipped with bed linen and kitchen utensils, and have supplies for sale. Tourists here take care of themselves. These lodges are normally locked. The key is rented out to members of DNT. The lodges are usually not available during the period of October 1 to February 15. Unstaffed lodges do not have food supplies, but they are equipped and open on the same terms as self-service lodges. Gjendesheim Besseggen and many other gems Besides Vestfjorddalen near Rjukan, Gjende - Norway's most beautiful mountain lake - was DNT's most important region of operation during the first years. In rapid succession, lodgings were established at Gjendebu and Memurubu, and not many years passed before a lodge at the eastern end of Gjende was added. After looking at potential sites at both Leirungen and Maurvangen, the lodge was placed at Gjendeoset. This proved to be a fortunate choice; a great number of visitors came here already from the beginning in 1878, and the numbers increased so much that the lodge eventually had to be expanded several times. Today, Gjendesheim is one of DNT's largest and most frequented facilities. The credit for this is due in no small measure to a line of faithful managers. We are not talking about a lot of names; the job of manager at a DNT lodge has a tendency to become a lifelong duty, which is again often passed on to the next generation. The manager today, Olav Gaute Vole, has held had the position since 1974, eventually joined by his wife Bjørg. They have developed Gjendesheim into a wonderfully pleasant lodge and have managed to preserve the peace and quiet that is the hallmark of a tourist lodge. Many guests return year after year, and especially among families with small children, Gjendesheim is regarded as an excellent place to spend both Easter and the summer vacation. It is wonderful to stay at Gjendesheim, but the natural surroundings are no less attractive. Besseggen is the natural number one destination. I will maintain that there are few tourist lodges that can boast comparable diversity. Almost in any weather and ground conditions, it is possible to go hiking in the environs. If it is windy in the mountains, one can find a more sheltered area down in Sjodalen, and if it is overcast in the north, then Valdresflya will have completely different conditions. Several of the two-thousand-meter peaks both to the northern and western sides of Gjende are within reach in the course of a day, and if one prefers to hike in more steady terrain, Gausdal Vestfjell starts just on the other side of the main road. Access Automobile road and bus connections to the lodge. Marked hiking trails to Bessheim, Glitterheim, Memurubu, Haugseter and Sikkilsdalsseter. Facts Gjendesheim was opened in 1878. Owner: DNT OA. Managers: Bjørg Aaseng and Olav Gaute Vole. The lodge is located in Vågå municipality in Oppland, 995 meters above sea level, and has 185 beds. Tel.: 61 23 89 10. E-mail: gjheim@online.no Web: www.dntoa.no Bessheim Old Mountain Farm The first tourist hikers who came to Sjodalen around the mid-1800's came from Sikkilsdalen. They hiked through the gorge and down toward Øvre Sjodalsvatn. On its western bank there were three mountain farms lying almost next to one another. The one that has become Bessheim tourist lodge has belonged to the Storvik farm in Vågå since about 1865 and has been owned by the same family the entire time. Also during hiking tourism's infancy, the area around Gjende was among Norway's most popular hiking region, and it was not without cause that DNT's first marked route was laid out in 1874 from Bessheim and across Veslefjell and Besseggen to Memurubu. Moreover, it was Jens Tronhus from the neighboring farm who completed the job. From 1948 to 1998, Kari and Knut Lund operated Bessheim. They were the right people in the right location. They met all challenges, one after the other, arranged for establishment of electricity and a better road, and they steadily expanded and modernized the tourist lodge. The lodge was then, and is now, popular, and hiking opportunities are abundant. Here one can go hiking in any weather conditions. If it is windy in the high mountains, there are ample opportunities down through Sjodalen, and if the weather gods are on one's side, there is a row of Jotunheimen's mountain peaks located within reach for day trips from Bessheim. For example, Besshø and Nautgardstind are both natural hiking goals out of Bessheim, and on the other side of Sjodalen, Heimdalshø beckons. If you don't want to go that far, Besstrondrundhø is an excellent alternative. It is not higher than 1421 meters but offers a superb panorama toward both Galdhøpiggen and Rondane. Not far from Bessheim is Vågå municipality's excellent cultural trail, Huldrestigen. If you would rather go fishing, there are opportunities in both Øvre Sjodalsvatn and Bessvatn. Access Automobile road and bus connections past the lodge. Marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim, Memurubu and Glitterheim. Facts Bessheim has hosted tourists since the mid-1800's. The lodge is located in Vågå municipality in Oppland, 960 meters above sea level, and has 150 beds. Owners: Kari and Knut Lund. Managers: Magni and Bernt Jo Vole. Tel.: 61 23 89 13. E-mail : post@bessheim.no Glitterheim A Centenary Institution In 2001, Glitterheim rounded the hundred-year mark, but it is actually much older. Already during the historical age of migration, hunters found shelter underneath boulders located below where the tourist lodge stands today. With a little cooperation, there is room for four persons to spend the night. The ceiling blackened by smoke is an indication that many people have used the overhanging rock up through the ages (see photo p. 2). Judging by all the reindeer hunting pits that have been found in and around Veodalen, this area was an important source of food. In the 1800's hunters decided to provide better shelter for themselves. About 1880, a stone hunting lodge was built, but its use for this purpose was short-lived. Already in 1898, DNT purchased the lodge for use as an accommodation for tourists, or more correctly, as shelter for builders of a tourist lodge. Good overnight accommodations between Sjodalen and Visdalen were lacking, and a lodge at the foot of Glittertind was considered to be convenient. Transportation of materials and equipment from the village and into the long Veodalen valley, as well as the construction of the tourist lodge itself, took a long time. It wasn't until 1901 that the first Glitterheim lodge was ready to house tourists. Ever since 1910, the Vole family has managed the lodge. Since 1973, Ole and Solveig Vole have been at the helm. It is in no small measure due to their efforts that Glitterheim is known as a very pleasant place to stay. The lodge has been greatly developed up through the years, but opportunities for hikers in Veodalen are much the same as earlier, with trips to the mountaintops and along glaciers, with Glittertind as the most important peak to reach. And if you do not want to climb Glittertind, there are scores of other hiking possibilities around Glitterheim. Hikers in reasonably good shape do Nautgardstind and Stormubben, on the eastern side of the valley, in a day. Not quite as high, but perhaps just as impressive, is a trip up Styggehø or Hestlegerhø. If you have glacier hiking skills or follow the lodge's guide, the glaciers on the western side are tempting, with their abundant Veo and Memuru peaks. Access There is a road right to the door, but from the border of the national park it is closed to normal traffic. There are marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim, Bessheim, Memurubu and Spiterstulen. Facts Glitterheim was formally opened in 1901. Owner: DNT OA. Managers: Solveig and Ole Vole. The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1348 meters above sea level, and has 137 beds, as well as 8 more in the self-service annex. Tel.: 61 23 18 33. E-mail: glheim@online.no Web:www.dntoa.no «hytter» Memurubu Right on Gjende Lake The name Memurubu means something like "shelter by the river that delves through the middle", and this is a fairly precise description of the surroundings at Memurubu on Gjende Lake. Anyone coming over the mountain down toward the lodge will see how much sand and gravel the river has carried with it across Gjende up through time. If it continues its work for a few more millennia, it will undoubtedly divide Gjende in two. The combination of the river's efforts and the favorable climate has also made the outermost portion of Memuru Valley unusually inviting, green and fertile. The first stone lodge here was built in the 1700's and was taken over by DNT in 1870. Three Englishmen were responsible for putting Memurubu on the map. In the humorous book «Three in Norway, by Two of Them», they describe graphically their experiences as tourists at Gjende in 1880. They stayed at Memurubu for several weeks while they hunted and fished. Vestiges from the Englishmen's stay may be seen on the grounds just below the tourist lodge; the stone oven they used for baking is still there. As the flow of tourists increased and DNT opened larger tourist lodges at both ends of Gjende Lake, the stone cabin's one room with a fireplace and two single beds were no longer adequate. Many breathed a sigh of relief then, when Ole Sveine from Lom undertook the task of building and operating a tourist lodge here. In 1884, his tourist station opened for business on the fertile hillside above the river delta at Gjende. Like other tourist lodges around this unrivaled mountain lake, this building also proved too small, and the lodge was expanded several times, most recently in 1993 when a completely new main building was constructed. Although the lodge has changed, it is nonetheless the same family that has operated it since all the way back to 1870, and who still welcome guests. Most guests naturally choose to hike to Besseggen or to Bukkelægeret, but Memurubu has many other places to visit, such as the nearby glaciers, mountaintops and valleys. Gjendebu DNT's Oldest Lodge Exactly when the first of our ancestors found their way all the way into the western end of Gjende is unknown, but it is certain that the first mountain farms were built in here as early as around the beginning of the 1700's. Mountain farmers came down from as far as Bøverdalen. The mountain road must have been primitive, but the farmers nonetheless insisted on keeping their mountain farms, because the grazing here was very fine. Because of this, when the first tourists began to come to this part of Jotunheimen sometime during the 1800's, it was possible to find shelter in the primitive mountain farm buildings. Hikers of that time were of course accustomed to the range of «simple accommodations in the Norwegian mountains», but Gjendesæteren was still too primitive for many. Certain people characterized the mountain shelters as «a pile of stones». Despite this, interest in the area was so keen that the newly established DNT decided already during its second annual meeting to provide better accommodations for tourist hikers in this area. At the eastern end, Bessheim offered excellent overnight accommodations, so that DNT voted at its annual meeting in 1869 to build a lodge at the western end. This was DNT's third lodge project. The two others have been either abandoned or sold, while Gjendebu is definitely doing very well still today. The new Gjendebu was completed in the fall of 1871, but the new lodge soon proved to be too small, so DNT bought a stone dwelling from Erik Hansen Slaalien for 10 spesidalers. The same man was hired as manager, and his daughter was born in the stone building at Gjendebu and christened Gjendine. A little over 130 years later, the «pile of stones» has developed considerably. After a number of renovations, the buildings so rich in tradition comprise an exceptionally harmonious complex of lodges that are pleasing to visitors. The natural surroundings are impressively attractive and pleasurable. Many people have been inspired by this kind of envir0nment, and several artists have tried to capture the natural beauty in words, tones and paint on canvas. Few have succeeded at it better than Edvard Grieg, who visited Gjendebu a number of times toward the end of the 19th century. He must have found much inspiration here for his Peer Gynt music. Access A shuttle boat serves Gjende all summer long, and there are marked hiking trails to Memurubu, Leirvassbu, Spiterstulen, Olavsbu, Fondsbu and Torfinnsbu. Facts: Gjendebu was formally opened in 1871. Owner: DNT OA. Managers: Aase and Håkon Dalen. The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 990 meters above sea level, and has 119 beds, including 34 beds in the self-service annex. Tel.: 61 23 89 44. Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» Sikkilsdalsseter A Pleasant Place for Horses and People The southern wall of Sikkilsdalshomet is steep and windblown, but it towers over valley that is extraordinarily fertile and green. In addition to its lushness, the valley has been long known for its plentiful trout and good hunting conditions. It was for that reason that it was used for mountain grazing, and eventually also for summertime farming. For a long time, Huseby farm in Stange, Hedmark, had a summer farm here, and it must have been a chore to herd animals for days along the country road all the way up to Sikkilsdalen, located at almost 1000 meters above sea level! Local annals reveal that in 1803, two farms down at Kvikne, midway between Skåbu and Vinstra, operated mountain farms, so by that time the locals were probably relieved that Hedmark farmers had stopped using «their» valley. In 1868, the government began to rent the valley as pastureland for horses, and shortly thereafter, Englishman Charles Bamford bought it for the hunting and fishing rights. He had hunted in Jotunheimen for a number of years, in the company, among others, of legendary reindeer hunter Jo Gjende. Through Jo Gjende, Bamford came into contact with Syver Sande, a well-known hunter and mountaineer who normally went under the name of Sjur. Sjur Sande was persuaded to be Bamford's representative in Sikkilsdalen and to live there year round. He moved with his wife and two children from Vågå, and he and his descendants lived in Sikkilsdalen for almost one hundred years. Even today, it is the Sande family that operates Sikkilsdalssetra. The combination of hunting grounds and pasture for horses did not fare well, however. Already in 1874, Bamford sold Sikkilsdalen to a group of Christiania citizens. They in turn tried to sell the property to the government, but it wasn't until 1881 that they succeeded. The government bought Sikkilsdalen in order to operate a horse-breeding center, and Sjur Sande and his family became part of the agreement, as tenants of Sikkilsdalsseter. Grazing conditions for horses are exceptionally good in Sikkilsdalen. The soil is fertile; the valley is sheltered and well exposed to the rays of the sun. The result is succulent, nutritious grass, and this is why there are still several herds of horses in Sikkilsdalen throughout the summer. It is an experience to see them turned loose to graze around the end of June. Tourists began very early to appreciate Sikkilsdalen, and already in 1870, the family's one dwelling became insufficient and Sjur built an additional one with a guestroom. Since then, progress has continued, tourism became predominant, and the Sande family built the stylish lodge of the present day. Access There is an automobile road to the lodge from Skåbu, and marked hiking trails from Oskampen and Gjendesheim. Facts: Sikkilsdalsseter has hosted tourists since 1868. The lodge is located in Nord Fron municipality in Oppland, 1016 meters above sea level, and has 78 beds. Owner: The Ministry of Agriculture Manager: Tordis Sande Varpestuen. Tel.: 61 29 55 14. Web: www.skabu.com Besstrond Sæter Old Mountain Farm in Sjodalen Access Automobile road past the lodge and bus connections. Facts Besstrond Sæter has hosted tourists since 1976. Owners: Magny Hilde and Bjørn Bjørgen. Manager: Turid Berge. The lodge is located in Vågå municipality in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 48 beds. Tel.: 61 23 89 23. Spiterstulen The lodge is amply described in pamphlet 4. Access Automobile road to the lodge and bus connections. Marked hiking trails to Glitterheim, Juvasshytta, Leirvassbu and Gjendebu. Facts Spiterstulen has hosted tourists since the 1830's. Owners: Charlotte and Eiliv Sulheim. The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1100 meters above sea level, and has approx. 230 beds. Tel.: 61 21 14 80. Web: www.spiterstulen.no Juvasshytta The lodge is amply described in pamphlet 4. Access. Automobile road to the lodge and bus connections. Marked hiking trails to Spiterstulen, Raubergstulen/Røisheim and Elveseter. Facts Juvasshytta has hosted tourists since 1884. Owner: Ragnhild Vole. The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1840 meters above sea level, and has approx. 85 beds. Tel.: 61 21 15 50. Web: http://ditt.net/juvasshytta Hindsæter fjellstue Mountain Farm from the 1600's Access Automobile road past the lodge and bus connections. Facts Hindsæter fjellstue has hosted tourists since the 1860's. Owner: Rolf Strøm. The lodge is located in Vågå municipality in Oppland, 920 meters above sea level, and has 50 beds. Tel.: 61 23 89 16. Maurvangen Camping and cabin rentals. Access Automobile past the campgrounds and bus connections. Marked hiking trails to Gjendesheim and Sikkilsdalsseter. Facts Maurvangen Camping has hosted tourists since 1976. Owner: Else Reiremo. The place is located in Vågå municipality in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 26 rental cabins. Tel.: 61 23 89 22. Choose Your Trip According to Appetite Setting up an appropriate hiking trip is in many ways like composing a successful dinner menu. It is wise to begin with a little appetizer to prepare the body for the main course, and it is always good to have a dessert, as a kind of reward for having completed the task. In choosing the trip proposals in these pamphlets, I have tried to keep this in mind. The trips need to be varied and have some peak moments in more than the literal sense along the way. Hopefully, I have succeeded. In any event, there is enough from which to choose, whether one prefers several appetizers, copious main courses or tempting desserts. The various trip menus are designed so that you can do them in the opposite direction, or combine parts of different menus to make your own version. In terms of the details in the trip menus, the length of the suggested legs is given in hours. For novices in the mountains, this may seem a little strange. But that is how things are in the Norwegian mountains, as well. The terrain is so diverse that meters and kilometers become misleading. It makes no sense to compare a thousand meters of steep, rocky hillside in Jotunheimen with a one-kilometer stroll through Frogner Park. The time that an average hiker can expect to spend is much more informative for the majority of us. The number of hours and an overview of the marked trails are also indicated on the map in the back of the pamphlet. As you read the various trip proposals, you should have one finger on the map. The description of the route will be much more informative if you do so. If you want to learn more about an area you want to explore, you should become a member of DNT and get hold of On Foot in Norway. All of the marked routes are described here, and the book also contains much information about Jotunheimen and other mountain areas. Before you get started choosing your tour menu, there's just one more thing: Remember that it is fine to eat your fill, but uncomfortable when you overeat. Degree of difficulty of the trips g = EASY gg = AVERAGE ggg = STRENUOUS Classic Trip Along Gjende Trip 1a - 2 days - gg 1. Gjendesheim/Bessheim to Memurubu Have you ever seen Gjendineggen? Before 1867, there were not many people who had. But then came Henrik Ibsen's masterpiece Peer Gynt, and the Gjende area, with Besseggen, became widely known. When DNT laid out its first marked route in the beginning of the 1870's, it went from Bessheim to Memurubu across Veslefjellet and down to Besseggen. In our time, about 30 000 people make the trip over Besseggen during a normal summer. The trip is considered to be a relatively light one-day outing. The ridge itself, which is about 20 meters wide, comprises only a little less than one kilometer of the route. It is breezy, but not dangerous. Cross-country races have actually been arranged from Memurubu to Gjendeshiem across the ridge as early as the 1960's, but the race was discontinued after a couple of years. If you are afraid of heights, it may be wise to make the trip from Memurubu, but it is most spectacular from Gjendesheim or Bessheim. I will describe the trip from Gjendesheim, since it is here that most people start out. The difference in elevation from the tourist lodge to the top of Veslefjellet is 750 meters, but the path is good and wide, and the ascent is quite even. The hillsides around Gjende are very fertile, and there is much to be enjoyed if one is interested in flowers. Here, the birch tree line goes above 1200 meters; this is the highest in the country. After one kilometer, the route toward Glitterheim bears to the right, but we continue up Veslløyfti and Veslefjellet. Over the years, the tracks from tens of thousands of hiker's boots have dug a wide, gray strip across Veslefjellet, but you don't need to go very many meters off the beaten track to discover that there are also plants at 1700 meters elevation. It is true, of course, that Alpine Azaleas and Glacier Buttercups are not as profuse here as their relatives farther down the hillside. Up at the summit, the marked route from Bessheim meets the one from Gjendesheim. The trip from Bessheim takes approx. one hour longer, and it is marked via the mouth of Besvatn Lake. A bridge has been placed here. The panorama from Veslefjell is breathtaking. From here you can see many of Jotunheimen's great peaks and large portions of Valdresflya and Gausdal Vestfjell. The view from the top of Besseggen is also overwhelming, with the lakes, blue Bessvatn and green Gjende , deep below. When you begin your descent, you should, however, pay attention to where you put your feet down. There are a couple of narrow passages that many find a little breezy. The difference in elevation down to Bessvatn is almost 400 meters. Once down, you hike across a very narrow mountain ridge that divides Bessvatn from the cliffs down toward Gjende. If the glacier that once created Bessvatnet had time to gnaw away a little more of the mountain here, there would have been an impressive waterfall down into Gjende. Instead, the water now runs eastward. From the shores of Bessvatnet, the path goes up again a couple hundred meters in elevation, and then downhill again. First past Bjømbøltjørna and then eventually downward toward Memurubu. There you may either spend the night, take the boat back to Gjendesheim or on to Gjendebu or you may also hike back to Gjendesheim along the Gjende. The trip goes through much lush nature along an old farm road and is surprisingly varied. 2. Memurubu to Gjendebu This trip is also a classic. The trip down Bukkelægeret is one of Jotunheimen's steepest marked routes, but it is well secured and not dangerous as long as you are cautious. Just after you have started out from Meurubu, the route crosses Muru via a solid bridge. The path continues steeply upward toward Sjugurdtind and then a little more gradually up toward Lågtuna. Along the way it first passes Sjugurtind Pond and then Grunnevatnet. On a warm summer day, you will undoubtedly appreciate this. The route continues through high and open ground and offers an excellent view; Surtningssua to the north and the peaks on the southern side of Gjende are especially impressive. The trail continues on a couple of kilometers to a large stonepile marking, where the route forks. To the right, the route continues west and down into Storådalen, where it joins the route between Leirvassbu and Gjendebu. This trip from Memurubu to Gjendebu takes approximately 6 hours and may be an alternative for those who find bukkelægeret too steep. We continue, however, along the trail to the left and down Bukkelægeret. Here it descends in steep loops, and there are cable wires laid out at the most exposed points. As for Besseggen, it may be wise to do this trip in the opposite direction if you are bothered by fear of heights. The hillside is steep, but it offers an excellent floral environment. According to reports, approximately 700 different plant species have been found in this area. The entire spectrum is found here, from Glacier buttercups, Spring Pasque and Maiden Saxifrage, to Dog Rose, Bird Cherry and Lily of the Valley. Once you are down from Bukkelægeret, the path to Gjendebu is easy and pleasant to hike, along the shoreline of Gjende. Day Trip from Memurubu The trip to Surtningssua is an absolute must if you are spending time at Memurubu. Its 2368-meter altitude makes it Norway's seventh highest mountain. It was first climbed about 1840 by Johan Sverdrup, who would later be president of parliament. Jotunologist Emanuel Mohn, who reached the summit 40 years later, found that the view from the peak is the grandest in all of Jotunheimen. Such a classification is dubious, but there is no doubt that the panorama from the top is magnificent. There are two marked trails to the top, and you should allow for at least eight hours to go up and down again. MS Gjende Ever since 1906, there have been motorized boat routes on Gjende Lake. In our time, the stream of passengers is so great during the most hectic of summer days that it takes two passenger boats to transport everyone traveling between Gjendesheim, Memurubu and Gjendebu. Here, the largest of the boats are in service during fine summer days. The weather conditions are not always favorable - Gjende is known for being sly, with strong gales and sudden changes in the weather. Lengths Gjendesheim - Memurubu, 6 hrs. Bessheim - Memurubu, 7 hrs. Memurubu - Gjendesheim (along Gjende), 3 ½ hrs. Memurubu - Gjendebu (via Bukkelægeret), 5 hrs. Memurubu - Gjendebu (via Storådalen), 6 hrs. Overnight Accommodations Bessheim, Gjendesheim, Maurvangen, Memurubu, Gjendebu. Public Transportation Bus routes to Gjendesheim and Bessheim. Shuttle boat service on Gjende Lake. It calls at Gjendebu, Memurubu and Gjendesheim. Day Trips from Gjendesheim Trip 1b - Ample choices - g - ggg There are a number of tempting day outings around Gjendesheim. On the northern side of Gjende, both Veslefjellet and Besshø are inviting for those who are looking for vistas and panoramas. The trip to Veslefjellet is short and feasible and can be combined with detours around Bessvatn. The trip to the summit of Besshø is considerably longer, but not particularly difficult. It is most usual to hike up the mountainside from the mouth of Bessvatnet, go across Bukkehø and follow the mountain ridge on the southern side of the glacier to the summit. South of Gjende, there are also plenty of choices. Neither Høgebrotet nor Tjørnholstind lie farther away from Gjendesheim than that these summits can be reached within one day. If you are among those who absolutely have to climb peaks, it may be a good idea to take a trip around Knutshø. Ask the people who work in Gjendesheim to take you across Sjoa, and then follow the path west along the shore of Gjende. It is unmarked, but the route is easily seen. On the little mountain ridge between Upper Leirungen and Gjende, there is a restored stone cabin; the original was built by Englishman Theodore Rathbone in the mid-1800's. He was a close friend of the legendary reindeer hunter, Jo Gjende. From the cabin, you can either continue along Upper Leirungen or take the trip across the lovely ridge at Knutshø. Some maintain that this is the ridge that Peer Gynt and the reindeer buck crossed, and not Besseggen. We will leave that discussion alone, and instead contend that Knutshø is also worth a day trip from Gjendesheim; it is a «breezy», but totally safe trip. You can hike back to Gjendesheim on the eastern side of Lower Leirungen and Gjendeshø. During the last leg approaching the lodge, you will merge with the marked trail from Haugseter (see pamphlet 2). Fishing Fishing is not a bad reason to visit this area, either. The row of old fisherman cabins near Gjendesheim are proof that Sjoa and Gjendeoset are particularly good places for trout. A similar sign is the presence of the Gjende flies that hover in swarms over the surface of the water during late summer days. Before they hatch, the larvae lie on the surface of sunken rocks at the bottom of the river, exposed to feeding fish. In Gjende, there are also plenty of gammarids, a little crustacean that is a tasty snack for trout. You can buy a fishing license at the tourist lodges. The Grand Round Trip Trip 1c - 4-6 days - gg - ggg 1. Gjendesheim/Bessheim to Glitterheim There are other trips besides Besseggen that have gained the status of classics in Jotunheimen. With Gjendesheim as your starting point, you can also make a week-long round trip that will take you through much of the finest that Jotunheimen has to offer, and that provides many possible side trips, including to the two tallest peaks in the entire country. The main route goes via Glitterheim, Spiterstulen, Gjendebu and Memurubu, but there are several possibilities for choosing shorter routes along the way, if you should find that some of the legs I propose are too long. The route also has the advantage of allowing you to start or end your trip at any of the lodges, except Glitterheim, and to take public transportation or your car to continue on. At any rate, I suggest that you begin at Gjendesheim. You will hike the first kilometer up the hillside toward Gjendehalsen together with those who are headed across Besseggen, but at the fork in the trail, you will go to the right. The trail is good and wide; there have been many hikers who have walked here before you. The first of these, incidentally, may have come very early. The natural environment was favorable, at least. We know, for example, that the wood line 8000 years ago was considerably higher than today. Remains of old pine logs have been found in the swamps as high up as 1200 meters above sea level in this area, and who can know if there weren't hunters roaming around here. The path swings in toward blue Bessvatn Lake that arches in toward the foot of Besshø. The summit is a good place to hike to if you are staying at Bessheim or Gjendesheim. The route toward Glitterheim crosses the river via a bridge at the mouth, and it eventually also merges with the marked route from Bessheim. If you walk a little out onto the ledge, you can look down on Bessheim and enjoy a good panorama of Sjodalen. The marked route continues evenly out toward Russvatnet. This is also a long, narrow lake that stretches in an arch in through the mountains. You will have a better overview of the lake, however, when you reach the other side. You do this after having crossed the bridge on the outlet at the eastern end. From here, there is a cart road along the river and down into Sjodalen. The marked route continues along the shore of Russvatnet for a couple of kilometers, before it again runs uphill along Tjørnholåa. You will pass a number of brooks on the stretch along the lake, and these might be suitable stopping points if you need a rest. Tjørnholåa is crossed by bridge in a canyon. The bridge, by the way, is among the more windy ones, but it is safe enough (I helped build it myself!). On the other side, the route forks, and both branches lead to Glitterheim, both of basically equal length. The route to the right goes through the magical and splendid Tjørnholet. This is considered a little more challenging than the other one. Here the going is very rocky and not always so easy to find the stone markers, but that is not really relevant, because the route is easily seen. At the highest point in the hollow, there is usually snow cover; be careful is it is hard and slippery. From the top of the gorge, there is a fine side trip to eastern Hestlægerhø. The marked trail continues down into Veodalen and crosses Veo via a solid bridge. The other route from the bridge across Tjørnholåa is the one most commonly used. It ascends evenly, first west and then north to the gorge between eastern and western Hestlægerhø. From there, it continues evenly along Hestbekken until it merges with the route from Tjørnholet via a bridge over Veo. 2. Glitterheim to Spiterstulen There is an automobile road to Glitterheim, but it is closed to normal car traffic from the border to the national park, so here only hikers are allowed. This is noticeable by the fireside banter in the lounge during the evenings. The subject is usually the following day's trek. For many, the subject is Glittertind. Norway's next tallest summit is the perfect destination. The great thing is that you can combine the trip to Spiterstulen with a trek to the summit. If the weather is nice, you should definitely do this. In inclement weather, it is better to hike over Skautflya to Spiterstulen (see below). The distance of the trip over Glittertind is feasible for people in fairly good shape to complete without exerting themselves too much. The course is generally well marked, and it has stone markers all the way to the edge of the glacier. The trail first goes up toward Lower Steinbuvatnet and then up the mountain ridge to the edge of the glacier. The upper glacier does not have chasms, but it may be slippery, especially during late summer, so it pays to wear crampons. One follows the crest of the glacier westward; don't go too near the edge of the high, sheer northern wall. As you approach the top, you will encounter an increasingly impressive panorama. Earlier, it was possible to find shelter in a cabin at the summit and enjoy the vista. The cabin was unfortunately destroyed by snow and wind, so that today only the weather dictates how long you can remain on the summit. If the winds are calm and skies are clear, this is a fantastic place to spend a few hours while you try to identify the peaks and glaciers that stretch out on the surrounding horizon. If your destination is Spiterstulen, you should not wait too long, however. Even though the major portion of the trip is behind you, there is still far to go. There is no marked route over the summit itself, so read the map carefully. First you cross two lesser peaks, and then you descend evenly to the glacier on the western side. The route is marked by stone piles from the southern edge of the snow cover. First steeply down to Skautflya, where you cross Steindalselva and Skauta either by stepping from stone to stone, or wading over, depending on the depth of the water. The route continues to the fork in the trail for the route across Skautflya and on across Skautkampen and down into Visdalen, and further along the road until you come to Spiterstulen. As mentioned, the trip across Skautflya is an alternative to the trek over Glittertind. The route first runs across a footbridge across Steinbuelva, and after that towards Skautflya through Vesleglupen. Before Skautkampen, this route merges with the one over Glittertind, and they become one the rest of the way. 3. Spiterstulen to Gjendebu The next leg goes all the way to Gjendebu. It is a long trek, but it can be split in two by going via Leirvassbu. (For details, see pamphlet no. 4 in this series.) If you are in reasonably good shape and take your time, it won't be difficult to hike to Gjendebu via Uradalen in a day. The first portion of the trip from Spiterstulen runs through the wide and fertile Visdalen valley. After hiking one kilometer, you can see the remains of the first Spiterstulen at the foot of Styggehø, on the other side of the river. There is a bridge across Hellstuguåa, and after a couple of kilometers, the path divides between the one from Leirvasbu and the one to Gjendebu. The latter continues through narrow Uradalen, which is appropriately named. Here it is wise to use sturdy footwear and to look where you place your feet. Still, you mustn't forget to look up once in a while. In the area surrounding the valley, there are 12 impressive peaks towering up to more than 2000 meters in height. The largest is Hellstugutind, at 2345 meters. The highest point in the valley itself is Urdalsbandet, at 1663 meters, but from this point, the course goes basically downhill. A little north of Hellertjørna, you will joint he route from Leirvassbu. Semmelåa may be crossed either by wading or stepping from stone to stone. At high water levels, it may be difficult to cross; in this case, you will have to go farther up the hillside. Soon the trail will pass the splendid Hellerfossen waterfall and eventually also the place where the marked route to Memurubu ascends from Storådalen. The final kilometers to Gjendebu go through terrain that becomes increasingly more fertile and green, and especially during the summertime, the flora is resplendent. 4. Gjendebu to Memurubu See description in Trip 1a. Here you may also take a boat. 5. Memurubu to Gjendesheim See description in 1a. Here you may also take a boat. Nautgardstind If you are in good physical shape and the weather is nice, you can enjoy beautiful Nautgardstinden on your way between Gjendesheim and Glitterheim. Begin at the bridge across Tjørnholåa and continue right to the summit. Nautgardstind's 2258 meters offer a marvelous view 360 degrees around. From the summit you continue along the ridge toward the northeast and out through Nautgardsoksla down to the route to Glitterheim. Glittertind Glittertind's 2465 meters are without a doubt the most important destination from Glitterheim. Hunter Jo Gjende believed for a long time that he had been the first man to reach the summit of «Tinden», when in 1842 he had tracked a reindeer buck all the way to the top. But history reveals that it was an urbanite who first reached the summit. Henrik Wergeland's cousin, land surveyor Harald Nicolai Storm Wergeland, conquered Norway's second tallest peak in the company of Hans Sletten from Lom the year before. The term next tallest might be open to debate, however - when the first climbers conquered Glittertind, the crown of snow was considerably higher than in modern times, and it is very possible that the peak at that time was actually taller than Galdhøpiggen, even though Galdhøpiggen in those days also had a glacier crown. Hellstugubreen A good alternative to this trip between Spiterstulen and Gjendebu is to hike along the classic glacier route over Hellstugubreen. The trip requires glacier hiking skills; it demands glacier hiking equipment and takes longer than the alternative in the valley. From Gjendebu, the route goes up Storådalen to Hellerfossen waterfall, from there up along the eastern side of Semmelåa, inn through Semelholet and up into the hollow between Hinnotefjellet and Søre Hellstugutinden. From there, glacier hiking northward over West Memurubre and across Hellstugubreen to Vidalen and Spiterstulen. Length Gjendesheim/Bessheim - Glitterheim, 7 hrs. Glitterheim - Spiterstulen, 5 or 7 hrs. Spiterstulen - Gjendebu, 8 hrs. Gjendebu - Memurubu, 5 or 6 hrs., see p. 19 Memurubu - Gjendesheim, 3 ½ hrs. or 6 hrs., see p. 19 Overnight Accommodations Bessheim, Gjendesheim, Glitterheim, Spiterstulen, Gjendebu, Memurubu. Public Transportation Bus routes to Gjendesheim, Bessheim and Spiterstulen. Shuttle boat route on Gjende Lake. It calls at Gjendebu, Memurubu and Gjendesheim. The Minor Round-trip Trip 1d - 2-3 days- gg A popular round trip in the Jotunheimen mountains is the one that goes from Gjendesheim or Bessheim via Glitterheim and back via Memurubu. Like the Grand Round Trip, this one can be done in either direction, and there are several alternative routes along the way. 1. Bessheim/Gjendesheim to Glitterheim See description, Trip 1c. 2. Glitterheim to Memurubu The first portion of the trip goes along the route to Gjendesheim through the gorge between eastern and western Hestlægerhø, further down to the junction for the route to Gjendesheim and down to Russvatnet. There is a bridge across Blåtjørnåa. If you have time, you should take a detour to see the Blå glacier; it is definitely worth the trip. On the shoreline of Russvatnet lie the ruins of Blackwellbua near a private fishing cabin. It was built by the English general Blackwell in the 1800's. He leased Russvatn and initiated an agreement to buy the lake. However, the landowner reneged and wanted to cancel the transaction. Blackwell acceded, stating that he didn't want to own «a freshwater lake made salty by the tears of a recalcitrant». Russvatn is said to be well stocked with fish, but it is privately owned. The route passes Glopåa via a bridge and merges with the route from Gjendesheim before the trail descends steeply to Memurubu. A good alternative to this trip goes over Styggehøbreen, through Styggehøbreskaret and out across eastern Memurubre and Memurudalen. The trip is calculated at over 9 hrs. and requires glacier hiking equipment and necessary skills. 3. Memurubu to Gjendesheim/Bessheim See description in Trip1a. Length Bessheim/Gjendesheim - Glitterheim, 7 hrs., see p. 24 Glitterheim - Memurubu, 7 hrs. Memurubu - Gjendesheim, 3 ½ hrs. or 6 hrs., see p. 19 Overnight Accommodations Bessheim, Gjendesheim, Maurvangen, Memurubu, Glitterheim. Public communications Bus routes to Gjendesheim and Bessheim. Shuttle boat serving Gjende Lake. It calls at Memurubu and Gjendesheim. Gjendesheim - Sikkilsdalsseter Trip 1e - 1 day - gg East of Gjendesheim, the bluish Gausdal Vestfjell mountains extend out on a blue horizon. In recent years, increasingly more people have become aware of this outstanding mountain area that stretches all the way to Gudbrandsdalen. Both summer and winter, one can follow marked trails from Gjendesheim and into the Gausdal Vestfjell mountain range. On an easy day trip, one may also sample other attractions; Sikkilsdalshø, Gåpåpiggan and Brurskarknappen are excellent places to visit. The trip over to Sikkilsdalsseter is an excellent gateway to the area. From Gjendesheim, you need to follow the automobile road to Maurvangen before you begin hiking in the terrain. The automobile road didn't exist in tourism's infancy, at a time when the most common routes into Jotunheimen went through Sikkilsdalsskaret and down into Sjodalen. From Maurvangen, it is an easy and pleasant trip up to the gorge, and merely the view from there and back toward Jotunheimen is worth the trip. The view the other way is not any less impressive. Sikkilsdalen is one of Norway's most fertile mountain valleys and is heavily used as pastureland. From Sikkilsdalsskaret, there are two marked trails. If the weather is good, you should definitely choose the one over Sikkilsdalshø. The marked ridge between Sikkilsdalshø and Sikkilsdalshornet is particularly impressive. From From the horn and down to the tourist lodge, there is a steep path on the western side of Skålbekken. It passes a series of gravel terraces deposited here during the last ice age some 10 000 - 9000 years ago. The alternative to the trip over the top is a somewhat shorter trip down into the valley alongside the two lakes. The route partially runs through boulder terrain. Just before the tourist lodge, it passes Prinsehytta, the royal family's Easter retreat for many years. Along the way you also have the opportunity to encounter some of the herds of horses for which the valley is so well-known. Ever since 1868, Sikkilsdalsseter has been the government's horse breeding center. It is here that the government's selected stud horses have spent many a pleasant summer week in the company of their harem of mares. The horses are usually put out to pasture around Midsummer Eve. Length Gjendesheim - Sikkilsdalsseter, 5 hrs. along Sikkilsdalsvatnet, 6 hrs. over Sikkilsdalshø. Overnight accommodations Bessheim, Gjendesheim, Maurvangen, Sikkilsdalsseter. Communications Bus routes to Gjendesheim, Maurvangen and Bessheim. Automobile road to Sikkilsdalsseter. On Ice and Snow Glacier Hiking Even if you have not completed a glacier hiking course or are not with someone who has the necessary knowledge about movement on glacier ice, you can still experience glacier hiking. During the summer season there are guided trips across certain glaciers in Jotunheimen. Inside the area of Jotunheimen that is described in this pamphlet, there are guided trips on the Svellnosbreen glacier from Spiterstulen and on the Veobreen out of Glitterheim. Here DNT OA also arranges glacier hiking courses each summer; you should sign up for this if you want to learn more about safe movement on glacier ice. Skiing Trips in Jotunheimen Summer in Jotunheimen can be fairy tale-like, but it is certainly not a bad place to visit in the winter, either. Skiing trips in the high mountains requires greater preparations and skills than hiking trips, but with the correct equipment and sensible behavior, it is not difficult to go from lodge to lodge in the wintertime. It is of course possible to stay in the lodges and take day trips during winter, as well. In this part of Jotunheimen, the following routes are marked in the mountains during Easter vacation: Gjendesheim/Bessheim - Glitterheim, Glitterheim - Spiterstulen, Spiterstulen - Leirvassbu, Leirvassbu - Gjendebu, Gjendebu - Memurubu, Memurubu - Gjendesheim, Memurubu - Glitterheim, Bessheim - Sikkilsdalsseter, Gjendesheim - Oskampen. For further details, we invite you to consult information from DNT before each winter season, and the book «På ski i fjellet» published by the Tourist Association in 1991. Equipment for Hiking The weather in the mountains is capricious and changing, so it is a question of being prepared for most eventualities. Rain and wind are something one can «count on», and even on a summer day, it may snow. Therefore it is always necessary to take along a change of warm clothing and potable water - as well as a windbreaker when you are planning to make a lengthy trip in the high mountains. And high quality footwear is a must. Good footwear is half the trip. During the summertime, appropriate footwear is probably the single most important item you must take with you into the mountains, and it is advisable to consider carefully when choosing hiking boots. For most people, it is wise to choose sturdy leather boots, especially in the kind of challenging terrain one finds in Jotunheimen. Good boots provide support for the legs and good friction against the ground. They will keep you dry, both from moisture from the outside and perspiration inside, and they do not have to be especially heavy. If you know that the trip generally will run through very wet terrain, rubber boots may be the natural choice of footwear, providing you have strong legs. There are also those who use running shoes on mountain hikes, regardless of weather. Even though the course they plan to take is not especially dry, or the terrain is not particularly easy to hike, they choose sneakers. If you have strong legs and are not afraid of hiking around with wet feet all day long, this of course is a choice you can make. As with other mountain equipment, footwear also entails finding something that suits you and meets your needs. If you need to buy new boots before the trek, it is wise to have broken them in beforehand. Except for boots, it is not necessary to buy expensive special equipment to go hiking in the mountains during the summer. Most people take along wool undergarments, a thick shirt, hiking trousers and a warm sweater that they already own. Rain clothes and a hiking jacket are also things found in most wardrobe closets. If you bring along a warm cap and a pair of mittens in addition, then you are well prepared for most types of weather (see the list of equipment below). DNT has tested a number of types of mountain gear and can offer additional advice if you need to inquire. List of Equipment for Summer Hiking Including Overnight Stays in Lodges This list has been compiled by the Tourist Association based on broad experience regarding what is sensible to take with you into the mountains on a summer day. If the weather is warm, you'll carry more with you in your rucksack; if it is colder, you will wear more on your body. Clothing: Underpants Undershirt, short-sleeved or long-sleeved (wool or other suitable fabric for the mountains) Shirt or thin sweater Trousers or knickers (wool or equivalent) Wool socks Wool stockings Boots In your rucksack or pockets: Anorak/windbreaker Windproof pants Cap Scarf Sweater/jacket, wool or fleece Rainwear (if your windbreaker is not waterproof) Reserve undershirt, wool or other suitable material suitable for use in the mountains) Long underpants, wool or other material suitable for use in the mountains) Light indoor shoes Light indoor clothing Mittens/mitts Shorts Packed lunch Thermos Map and compass Map case, including pencil and paper Mosquito repellent Toilet articles Towel Sheet bag or sleeping bag First aid kit Waterproofing for boots Sun glasses Solbriller Sunblock Reserve provisions (for example, chocolate) Matches Keys (to the cabin, your home, your car) Membership card for the Tourist Association This kind of equipment in a normal rucksack weighs 7-10 kg. On a camping trip in the mountains during summer, you must also bring along: Sleeping bag Ground pad Cooking utensils and fuel Food Plate and eating utensils Tent Take the Children Along to the Mountains It is nice to take the children along to the mountains. It provides a new way of enjoying nature for us grown-ups, too. It is wise in the beginning, nevertheless, to plan to stay in a tourist lodge and make day outings around the lodge. If you want to trek from lodge to lodge with the children, you should proceed cautiously. Some children are able to hike from lodge to lodge when they are five years old; others may not be very interested until they are eight or nine. It varies from child to child, and the most thoughtless thing we parents can do is to force a child to take trips that they are unmotivated to do. In the beginning, trips of two to four hours might be enough. Count on using twice the number of hours that are indicated on the map in the back of the pamphlet. You will need to allow for frequent and lengthy rest breaks and ample time for admiring nature and making discoveries. Children can ask questions that ten wise men couldn't answer, so it may be a good idea to prepare oneself a little, for example by taking along a little mountain flora guide in your breast pocket. If you have thought a little beforehand about the kinds of activities the family can enjoy along the trip, it will be easier to motivate small legs for renewed efforts. At several of the tourist lodges, conditions are adapted for families with children. Games and children's books are available to borrow. Map and compass The maps in the back of this book are on a scale of 1:100 000. This means that every centimeter on the map is equal to one kilometer in the terrain. It is wise to plan and complete trips along marked routes. If you are going to hike off the trails, I recommend that you obtain a map on a scale of 1: 50 000. There are such maps covering all of Norway's terrain. Even though the routes in this book are marked and described, there is no doubt about the fact that a map and compass should always be taken along on a trip. There are unfortunately too many people who forget this, and experience also shows that many who take a map and compass along haven't learned to use them. If you are to be a trustworthy guide in the mountains and woods, you will need to practice a lot, and it is here that many hikers are lacking. They follow the markings and think that it is marked so well that they don't need to follow along on the map. As a rule, the trip is successful anyway. But things can go seriously wrong if you do not know exactly where you are and what landmarks you have surrounding you. As you follow marked trails on a fine sunny day, you should now and again benefit from the occasion to train yourself, so that you are sure you can properly use a map and compass. When a storm breaks, it is too late. If you lose track of the markings - and your sense of direction - it may be a matter of life and death to know where you are on the map, to be able to set a course with your compass and find your way back to the marked path. Much of the pleasure of hiking in the mountains is to become familiar with a new area, and to learn the names of mountains and formations you pass. You should, therefore, make it a habit to follow along on the map, so that you always know where you are. Setting a Course When you want to plot a course, you proceed in the following manner: 1 Place the compass on top of the map. Lay the edge of the compass along your desired course, with the fixed directional arrow from the place where you are to the point you want to reach. 2 Rotate the compass bowl until the lines at the bottom of the compass bowl are parallel with the North-South lines on the map. 3 Remove the compass from the map. Keep the compass horizontal and turn your body until the moveable arrow in the compass bowl is parallel with the directional arrow at the bottom of the bowl. 4 Your target direction is toward the point at which the fixed course arrow on the compass is pointing. In the Event of an Accident Even though most trips in the mountain conclude without drama, you should be prepared for what to do in case the opposite occurs. Regardless of how well organized the Norwegian Rescue Service is, it is you alone who have the responsibility for avoiding situations that lead to accidents. It is easier to act correctly, when the forces of nature are unleashed, if you have thought through the situation beforehand. The best way to handle dangerous situations is to learn how to avoid them. Basic Rules of First Aid Naturally the same principles for life-saving first aid apply in the mountains as anywhere else: 1. Free the air passages. An unconscious person must be placed on his side in a stable position. If the patient is not breathing, you must begin mouth-to-mouth resuscitation. If the patient does not have a pulse, you must also begin cardiac resuscitation. 2. Stop profuse bleeding. Profuse, life-threatening bleeding must be stopped as soon as possible. Use a pressure bandage or a tourniquet. 3. Prevent loss of circulation. Try to keep the patient calm. Place him with his feet elevated if need be. Wrap the patient in warm clothing, a sleeping bag or blanket. 4. Prevent infection. Cover open wounds, preferably with sterile bandages. Splint or stabilize fractures so that transportation of the patient can be done as gently as possible. 5. Transportation. Call for help at Tel. 112 (police, emergency rescue services) or 113 (doctor, ambulance), using, for example, the staffed lodges, and get ready to evacuate the patient once his condition is stable. Remember that you can't depend on cell phone coverage in all areas of the mountains. Blisters The mountain hikers' most common affliction is easier to prevent than cure. Blisters usually occur where the boot chafes against the foot, on the heel, arch and underside of the toes. Places that begin to become red because of chafing should be covered with a wide adhesive bandage, sports tape or specially made blister bandages. Places exposed to pressure should be padded so that the pressure is evenly distributed. If you know that you blister easily, or have boots that irritate certain parts of your feet, it is just as well to bandage exposed areas before you set out on the hike. If you have new boots that have not been broken in well, you should be particularly watchful for signs of blisters. If you already have a pus-filled blister, you can pierce it or cut a hole in the blister with a sterilized knife, needle or scissors. Next you need to cut a bandage or piece of foam rubber and place it so that it covers the wound and you will not have any direct pressure that might further irritate it when you continue hiking.