[4-1 |] Jusvasshytta [4-2 |] Galdhøpiggen's Neighbor [4-3]

[4-4] In 1874, 24 years after the first ascent, Knud O. Vole, a smallholder from Røisheim, started as a mountain guide at Galdhøpiggen. [4-5] He quickly made a name for himself as a congenial and skillful escort. [4-6] In order to reach the summit in the course of a day's outing from Røisheim in Bøverdalen, it was normally necessary to start out at 4 a.m., and the return home was often correspondingly as late. [4-7] On his long, arduous trips to the top of Galdhøpiggen, Knud many times undoubtedly missed a place to spend the night along the way, and in September, 1884, he and his son Ole began construction of a stone shelter at Juvvatnet. [4-8] The construction on one of Jotunheimen's most exposed building sites 1840 meters above sea level must have been a rough experience. [4-9] Each evening, for example, Knud and Ole had to go all the way down to Raubergstulen at approximately 1000 meters above sea level in order to spend the night! [4-10] The result, however, was satisfactory, and the stone shelter at Juvvatnet rapidly became popular. [4-11] During the summer of 1885, 80 people visited the shelter, and traffic to the hut steadily increased. [4-12] The five beds in the first hut proved insufficient, and Knud expanded the shelter several times. [4-13] A son, Knut K., and his wife Rønnhaug continued expansion when they took over responsibility in 1914. [4-14] They expanded Juvasshytta several times, built a path to Juvvatnet, and installed electricity and a telephone. [4-15] In 1956, their daughters Ragnhild and Tora took the helm. [4-16] During their time, much was built at Juvasshytta, most recently in 1994. [4-17] Because of all of the expansions up through the years, the building has become rather elongated and strange in appearance from the outside, but on the inside, the various periods blend perfectly into one another. [4-18] The fact that hikers enjoy themselves here is not hard to understand. [4-19] It has become a popular sport to visit Galdhøpiggen; the Juvasshytta's glacier guides often escort from 200-300 people to the summit on a good day during peak season, and very many of them want to spend the night at Juvasshytta. [4-20] But Galdhøpiggen is far from the only reason to visit the lodge at Juvvatnet. [4-21] During the summertime, many take the trip up from the valley in order to try out their skis on the Veslegjuv glacier a little over one kilometer from Juvasshytta. [4-22]

[4-23 |] Access [4-24] Car road to the lodge and bus connections. [4-25] Marked hiking routes to Spiterstulen, Raubergstulen/Roisheim and Elveseter. [4-26]

[4-27 |] Facts [4-28] Juvasshytta has been host to tourists since 1884. [4-29 |] Owner: Ragnhild Vole. [4-30 |] The Lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1840 above sea level, and has 85 beds. [4-31 |] Tel: 61 21 15 50. [4-32 |] Web: http://ditt.net/juvasshytta [4-33]

[4-34 |] Spiterstulen [4-35 |] The largest tourist lodge [4-36] A lodge between majestic Galdhøpiggen and Glittertind is necessarily influenced by its surroundings. [4-37] The same is true of Spiterstulen. [4-38] What was once a simple, small mountain pasture has today grown to become Jotunheimen's largest and most popular tourist lodge. [4-39] During the period of one year, the 230 beds at Spiterstulen accommodate more than 25 000 guests. [4-40] And traffic here has existed for a long time; already before Jotunheimen was «discovered» by students Keilhau and Boeck in 1820, there was travel through Visdalen by people on their way between Gudbrandsdalen and Valdres, and it was quite normal for many of those making the trek through Jotunheimen to ask for overnight accommodations at Spiterstulen. [4-41] Eventually, however, people came by who were traveling more for their own pleasure than because they had to. [4-42] The first tourist who reported from Visdalen in 1823 wrote that he «was well cared for at this mountain pasture». [4-43] Steinar Sulheim, the owner at the time, saw the opportunities, and in 1836 he erected an extension to accommodate travelers and hunters. [4-44] Fortunately, expansion has been done sensibly. [4-45] It is regrettably easy to build on a grand scale in a manner that results in the buildings' appearing out of harmony with the terrain. [4-46] At Spiterstulen, builders have managed to preserve the mountain farm style. [4-47] The aforementioned Sulheim was among the three who were first to climb Galdhøpiggen, and the interest in Norway's highest peak came to mean a great deal for the influx of people to Spiterstulen. [4-48] However, it would be wrong to attribute the honor for Spiterstulen's success only to Galdhøpiggen. [4-49] The location is unique in other ways, as well. [4-50] Glittertind, at 2464 meters, lies temptingly nearby, and 16 of Norway's other peaks over 2300 meters may be reached on day trips from Spiterstulen. [4-51] Here, there are sufficient challenges for those who crave heights. [4-52] Spiterstulen has also been important for the development of glacier climbing in this country. [4-53] Many prospective glacier wanderers have received their initial experience on Svellnosbreen, the large glacier beneath Galdhøpiggen's southern wall. [4-54] Since 1949, guides from Spiterstulen have accompanied thousands of tourists into the craggy glacial crevices. [4-55] But you do not need to be interested in alpine adventures in order to enjoy Spiterstulen. [4-56] If you are interested in seeing how our forefathers made use of the mountain resources, there are pits and hunting facilities both next to the trail over to Glitterheim and underneath Spiterhø. [4-57] Farther inside the valley, at Hellstuguåa, there are building sites from the 1100's, probably with the remains of «sælehus», accommodations for travelers of the time. [4-58]

[4-59 |] Access [4-60] Car road to the lodge and bus connections. [4-61] Marked hiking routes to Glitterheim, Juvasshytta, Leirvassbu and Gjendebu. [4-62]

[4-63 |] Facts [4-64] Spiterstulen has hosted tourists since the 1830's. [4-65 |] Owners: Charlotte and Eiliv Sulheim. [4-66] The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1100 meters above sea level and has approx. 230 beds. [4-67 |] Tel. : 61 21 14 80. [4-68 |] Web: www.spiterstulen.no [4-69]

[4-70 |] Sognefjellhytta [4-71 |] Summer skiing and Glacier Excursions [4-72]

[4-73] Throughout the ages, the trip over Sognefjellet has cost many wayfarers their lives. [4-74] During the years of hardship from 1812 to 1813, six dalesmen were among those who froze to death on the road over to Sogn while on their way to get grain. [4-75] Today a like number of stone markers commemorate the tragedy. [4-76] Henrik Wergeland was undoubtedly also appalled by this road, because after having traversed the mountain in 1832, he characterized Sognefjell in these terms: [4-77] «Here stretches the Lom and Sogn residents' ghastly road to the beyond across the alpine desert of Sognefjell.» [4-78] It is not difficult to understand, therefore, that there was a strong desire in both Lom and Skjolden for a better road across the mountain, but money for a road project of this magnitude was lacking for a long time. [4-79] As a pure relief project, it was begun, then, in the mid-1930. [4-80] 200 young people with shovels, prying levers, hoes and wheelbarrows toiled and labored during long summer months. [4-81] In the course of only a couple of years, the 20-klometer long mountain road was completed in an impressive manner. [4-82] Two of the log cabins that were used during the project were first put to use as a cafe just after the war. [4-83] In 1947, Torkjell Bakkeberg was able to open his tourist lodge at Sognefjellet as an overnight accommodation for travelers and mountain trekkers. [4-84] During the wintertime, the Sognefjell road is usually not plowed farther than to the Jotunheimen Fjellstue on the eastern side and to Turtagrø on the western side, but in April/May, the road is open for automobile traffic. [4-85] There are scarcely better conditions in Norway for those who want to reach high mountain altitudes in a simple way, and usually it is possible to ski in the area around the tourist lodge all summer long. [4-86] Many national ski teams and sports clubs have discovered this and locate their summer meets at Sognefjellet. [4-87] If you have considered a hike or a walk on top of a glacier, Sognefjellhytta is not a bad place to visit, either. [4-88] Both Smørstabbtinder and Fannaråken are natural destinations from here for hikers. [4-89] There are daily guided excursions across Fannaråk glacier and Smørstabb glacier. [4-90]

[4-91 |] Access [4-92] The Sognefjell road goes past the lodge, with scheduled bus stops. [4-93] There are marked hiking trails to Nørstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (w/glacier guiding), Skogadalsbøen and Fannaråken (w/glacier guiding). [4-94]

[4-95 |] Facts: [4-96] Sognefjellhytta was opened in 1947. [4-97 |] Owner: Råmund Mundhjeld. [4-98 |] The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1415 above sea level, and has 90 beds. [4-99 |] Tel: 61 21 29 34. [4-100 |] E-mail: sognefjellet@sensewave.com [4-101 |] Web: www.sognefjellet.com [4-102]

[4-103 |] Krossbu Tourist Facility [4-104 |] From Wayside Inn to Glacier Center [4-105]

[4-106] The Sognefjell road between the farms uppermost in Bøverdalen and Fortun on the other side of the mountain is a little over 30 kilometers long. [4-107] This was sometimes a bit too far for many to walk in one day, especially in inclement weather. [4-108] When Krossboden, or Krosshø Hotel, as it was called in the tourist handbooks of the time, was finished in 1902, it was a welcome opportunity for wayfarers. [4-109] This can be confirmed simply by perusing the first guest book, which contains many words of praise for good service and a pleasant stay. [4-110] It was Nils T. Bakkeberg who was responsible for the construction. [4-111] He later became renowned as a certified mountain guide for DNT in addition to his job as a host for tourists. [4-112] Like many other tourist hosts of the time, he found that his lodge was too small. [4-113] In 1914, therefore, an annex was added. [4-114] It was later dubbed Nilsestugu and today houses, among other things, a self-service facility that can be used when the main lodge is closed. [4-115] In conjunction with the Sognefjell road being opened in 1938 for automobile traffic, yet another new building was raised, and in 1974 the present day's main building took shape. [4-116] Even though the lodge was first erected with wayfarers in mind, it was rapidly discovered that it offered new opportunities for hiking tourists. [4-117] Smørstabb glacier quickly became a popular destination, and may hire a guide to take them from Krossbu, up Leirbreen or Bøverbreen, past Kalven, Storebjørn and Surtningstind to Leirvassbu. [4-118] Guided glacier excursions are still very popular. [4-119] On good days, groups of 30-40 people set out from the lodge to follow their guide to Leirvassbu. [4-120] In season, there are guided excursions both ways daily. [4-121] Many, however, want to learn more about glacier walking without a guide, and DNT's glacier course at Krossbu is very popular. [4-122] Here the participants learn, among other things, how to use rope and safety equipment in order to move safely on blue ice and snowy surfaces. [4-123] On the closing excursion for these courses, a trip across the glacier to one of the mountaintops is the usual agenda. [4-124] Within reach on a one-day outing from Krossbu, there are 23 summits that are higher than 2000 meters, so there is enough from which to choose. [4-125]

[4-126 |] Access [4-127] Sognefjell road goes past the lodge, with scheduled bus stops. [4-128] There are marked hiking trails to Nørstedalseter, Bøvertun, Leirvassbu (w/glacier guiding), Skogadalsbøen and Fannaråken (w/glacier guiding). [4-129]

[4-130 |] Facts [4-131] Krossbu Tourist Facility began operating in 1902. [4-132 |] Owners: Torill and Kåre Vole. [4-133] Krossbu Tourist Facility is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1260 meters above sea level and has 85 beds. [4-134] Tel. : 61 21 29 22. [4-135]

[4-136 |] Stølsdalen [4-137 |] Grand Gateway [4-138]

[4-139] If you stand on the road down to Skålevatn, you will see the reflected light from the windows at Stølsdalen on the hillside nearby, but if you start walking, you will find the truth fully confirmed that a straight line is seldom the shortest way in the mountains. [4-140] Both the lake and a series of low cliffs effectively stop all attempts at a straight course; instead, you will go up and down, left and right - and downwards again. [4-141] A couple of hours later, you will have put behind you just under four kilometers as the crow flies and you will be able to take a breather against the stone wall at Stølsdalen. [4-142] Up until 1991, the summer mountain barn here basked in sunny tranquility after the Ormelid farm down in Fortundalen had stopped sending livestock to summer pasture. [4-143] The tourist association, however, had been looking for possible overnight accommodations in this area in order to divide up the long route between Turtagrø and Nørdstedalseter. [4-144] Rather than build new accommodations, it seemed a good solution to restore something that already stood on the finest site in the valley. [4-145] So the sheep moved out and the tourists moved in, literally. [4-146] The restoration was a comprehensive task that began with shoveling out the sheep droppings from the stone barn and removing the majority of the old walls. [4-147] The fact that the building contractor was able to build a new building in the old style can be easily seen by everyone who takes the trip here. [4-148] The result, at any rate, is an unusually pleasant lodge, a grand gateway to Breheimen. [4-149] The path onward across Liabrekulen to Nørdstedalseter passes the 1800-meter mark by a wide margin, and from the summit there is a fantastic panorama toward both Jotunheimen and Breheimen. [4-150] Stølsdalen may be reached, however, from several directions other than from Skålevatn; by far most people come along the marked route from the long-established Turtagrø Hotel on the Sognefjell road. [4-151] For those who are not afraid of uphill climbs, I can recommend the trip down from Fortundalen - it goes from a valley bottom so lush and warm that tobacco was grown here during the last war - up the hillside through several climatic zones to barren alpine heights, and then slightly downward again to peaceful Stølsdalen. [4-152]

[4-153 |] Access [4-154] There are marked hiking trails to Turtagrø, Fortundalen, Nørdstedalseter and Herva at Skålavatnet. [4-155]

[4-156 |] Facts: [4-157] Stølsdalen was built in 1991 and is run as a self-service lodge. [4-158 |] Owners: DNT OA. [4-159] Located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 1040 meters above sea level and has 8 beds. [4-160 |] Tel.: None. [4-161 |] Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» [4-162]

[4-163 |] Nørdstedalseter [4-164 |] Centrally located in Breheimen [4-165]

[4-166] Norway's longest fjord is Sognefjorden. [4-167] Innermost in it, you will find Skjolden and Fortun, and high above in Fortundalen lies the staffed lodge of Nørdstedalseter. [4-168] For those who hike from Jotunheimen to Breheimen, this lodge is practically a mandatory place to visit. [4-169] It has been so ever since the first cabin with four beds was built with contributions from DNT in 1889. [4-170] It was privately owned for a long time, but in 1928 it was taken over by the tourist association. [4-171] Not many years went by before the cabin had to be expanded, and later, DNT's first staffed lodge at Breheimen was modernized many times. [4-172] Much has occurred in the areas surrounding Nørdstedalseter. [4-173] For pioneers, the crossing of the Fortundal river just below the lodge was a risky business. [4-174] Many chose instead the slightly more than one-day trek required to descend the steep valley hillside and out to Skjolden, spending the night there, and then climbing up into the mountains again via Mørkrisdalen, rather than going directly westward from Nørdstedalseter. [4-175] Today there is a bridge across the river and a drivable road to the tourist lodge, and the hike westward to Arentzbu along the stone-marked route is estimated at just less than seven hours. [4-176] The road up the Fortundalen was built in conjunction with the expansion of power facilities at the beginning of the 1960's. [4-177] At the time, it was necessary to build an access road into the power station at Fivlemyrane. [4-178] To drive this road into the mountains today is an adventure in itself. [4-179] If it is not Norway's steepest automobile road to a tourist facility, it cannot be far off mark, and the road runs through a fantastic landscape of waterfalls. [4-180] Compared with the mountain paths up through the valley in old times, including the steep Kleppe gorge, today's route is pure pleasure, despite its being somewhat narrow and winding. [4-181] In spite of the road, the majority of guests seeking overnight accommodations arrive on foot at Nørdstedalseter; from the list below, you will see that there are many routes from which to choose. [4-182] Hiking opportunities around Nørdstedalseter are ample. [4-183] Liabrekulen, Vetledalen and the beautiful Grøne Lake, Holåtindane, Harbard and Sveidal glaciers are realistic day trips. [4-184]

[4-185 |] Access: [4-186] There is an automobile road to the lodge and marked hiking trails to Arentzbu, Sota Sæter, Trulsbu, Bøvertun, Krossby, Sognefjellhytta and Stølsdalen. [4-187]

[4-188 |] Facts: [4-189] Nørdstedalseter was built in 1889. [4-190 |] Owner: DNT OA. [4-191 |] Manager: Torill Bruaas. [4-192] The lodge is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 935 m. above sea level, and has 40 beds, as well as 4 beds in the self-service section, which can be used whenever the rest of the lodge is closed. [4-193 |] Tel.: 95 07 63 82. [4-194] Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» [4-195]

[4-196 |] Trulsbu [4-197 |] The Link [4-198]

[4-199] Medalsbu uppermost in Middalen was never a success for DNT. [4-200] It was built in 1938 and abandoned in 1957. [4-201] A stay at 1346 meters above sea level in this area of Breheimen clearly did not interest many people, and today only the ruins of the cabin remain. [4-202] The concept behind the cabin, however, was sound. [4-203] Besides its location in the midst of an excellent hiking area, it was conceived as a means of breaking up the long trip from Skjåk, via Lundadalen, to Nørdstedalseter, into two manageable day-long treks. [4-204] This is an old road between Vestland and Østland that should be experienced by more people. [4-205] But Medalsbu was probably too near Nørdstedalseter and too far way from Skjåk to serve as an appropriate overnight spot for the trip. [4-206] When DNT again revived these plans in the 1980's, it was therefore natural to seek a site a bit closer to Skjåk, down in Lundadalen. [4-207] It was impossible, however, to find a building site that was safe from avalanches, so that Vesledalen, a little closer to Lundadalsbandet, was chosen instead. [4-208] In 1988, a self-service lodging was completed, safely situated at the foot of stately Vesledalstinden. [4-209] The name Trulsbu, given to the lodge in honor of Truls Kierulf, who worked actively to create a closer association between the tourist facilities in Norway and to link Skjåk and Luster together with a cabin facility, is therefore a fine tribute to him. [4-210] Trulsbu has rapidly become considerably more popular than its predecessor. [4-211] Especially during late spring, there are many who visit the lodge after completing the classic trek over Lomseggen and Hestbrepiggane. [4-212] In good weather and with proper ground conditions, it is possible to cover at least eight different summits of more than 2000 meters in altitude during the course of a long day's trek from Lom to Trulsbu. [4-213] The Holåtindane peaks on the southern side also attract many tourists in both spring and summer. [4-214] Tussetind is especially impressive. [4-215] It was named for the mountain-climbing pioneer Therese Berteau. [4-216] Besides this, there are two other peaks in the Holåtindane range that should tempt hikers of today, and a detour northward to the 2085-meter tall Hestdalshøgdi is reachable on a day trip from Trulsbu. [4-217]

[4-218 |] Access: [4-219] There are marked hiking trails to Sota Sæter, Skjåk and Nørdstedalseter. [4-220]

[4-221 |] Facts: [4-222] Trulsbu was built in 1988 and is run as a self-service cabin. [4-223 |] Owner: DNT OA. [4-224] The cabin is located in Skjåk municipality in Oppland 1290 m. above sea level and has 12 beds. [4-225 |] Tel.: None. [4-226 |] Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» [4-227]

[4-228 |] Jotunheimen fjellstue [4-229 |] Access [4-230] The Sognefjell road passes the lodge, and there are regularly scheduled bus stops. [4-231]

[4-232 |] Facts [4-233] The lodge was opened in 1946. [4-234 |] Owners: Åse Wiker, Gøril Wiker, Arne Magnus and Petter Gudmundahl. [4-235] The mountain lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 50 beds. [4-236 |] Tel.: 61 21 29 18. [4-237 |] E-mail: info@jotunheimen-fjellstue.no [4-238 |] Web: www.jotunheimen-fjellstue.no [4-239]

[4-240 |] Røisheim [4-241 |] Access [4-242] The Sognfjell road passes the lodge, and there are regularly scheduled bus stops. [4-243] From Røisheim there is an old hiking trail to Juvasshytta. [4-244]

[4-245 |] Facts [4-246] The facility began to host tourists in 1858. [4-247] Owner: Røisheim Eiendom AS. [4-248] Hosts: Ingrid and Haavard Lunde. [4-249] The estate is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 540 meters above sea level, and has 48 beds. [4-250] Tel.: 61 21 20 31. [4-251 |] Web: www.roisheim.no [4-252 |] E-mail:r-drif-a@online.no [4-253]

[4-254 |] Leirvassbu See description in pamphlet 3 [4-255 |] Access [4-256] There is an automobile road to the lodge. [4-257]

[4-258 |] Facts [4-259] Leirvassbu was built as a stone cabin in 1875 by DNT. [4-260] The first tourist lodge was completed in 1906. [4-261 |] Owner: Åmund Elveseter. [4-262 |] Managers: Magny Hilde and Bjørn Bjørgen. [4-263 |] The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1405 meters above sea level, and has 190 beds. [4-264 |] Tel.: 61 21 29 32. [4-265 |] Email: lvassbu@online [4-266]

[4-267 |] Bøvertun fjellstugu [4-268 |] Access [4-269] The Sognefjell road passes the lodge, and there are regularly scheduled bus stops. [4-270] There are marked hiking trails to Nørdstedalseter, Sognefjellhytta and Krossbu. [4-271]

[4-272 |] Facts [4-273] The lodge was opened in 1864. [4-274] Owners: Kjellfrid and Johan Engen. [4-275] The lodge is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 950 meters above sea level, and has 76 beds. [4-276] Tel.: 61 21 29 24. [4-277 |] Web: http//home.sol.no/~bovertun [4-278]

[4-279 |] Raubergstulen turisthytte [4-280 |] Access [4-281] There is an automobile road and regular bus service to the lodge and old hiking trails to the lodge from Røisheim and Juvasshytta. [4-282]

[4-283 |] Facts [4-284] The facility began to host tourists about 1950. [4-285] Owner: Borgny and Magnar Mundhjeld. [4-286] It is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 1000 meters above sea level, and has 185 beds. [4-287] Tel.: 61 21 12 93. [4-288 |] E-mail: rauberg@online.no [4-289]

[4-290 |] Fannaråken See description in pamphlet 3 [4-291 |] Access [4-292] There are marked hiking trails to Turtagrø, Sognefjellet and Skogadalsbøen. [4-293]

[4-294 |] Facts [4-295] Fannaråkhytta has been host to tourists since 1926. [4-296] Owner: DNT OA. [4-297] The lodge is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 2068 meters above sea level, and has 36 beds. [4-298 |] Tel.: 941 35 993. [4-299 |] Web: www.dntoa.no «hytter» [4-300]

[4-301 |] Elveseter hotell [4-302 |] Access [4-303] The Sognfjell road passes by the lodge, and there are regularly scheduled bus stops. [4-304] There are marked hiking trails from Juvasshytta. [4-305]

[4-306 |] Facts [4-307 |] The facility has hosted tourists since about 1880. [4-308 |] Owner: The Elveseter family. [4-309] Manager: Rogne Elveseter. [4-310] It is located in Lom municipality in Oppland, 670 meters above sea level, and has 240 beds. [4-311] Tel.: 61 21 20 00. [4-312 |] Web: www.elveseterhotell.no [4-313]

[4-314 |] Turtagrø Klatrernes hotell [4-315 |] Access [4-316] The Sognefjell road goes past the hotel. [4-317] There are marked hiking trails to Fannaråken, Skagastølsbu and Stølsdalen. [4-318] The road over Sognefjellet is closed during the winter, but it is normally snow-plowed up to Turtagrø. [4-319]

[4-320 |] Facts [4-321] Turtagrø was built in 1888. [4-322] The hotel is owned and operated by Ole Berge Drægni. [4-323] The hotel is located in Luster municipality in Sogn and Fjordane, 884 meters above sea level, and has 80 beds. [4-324 |] Tel.: 57 68 61 16. [4-325 |] E-mail: turtagro@online.no [4-326 |] Web: www.skjolden.com/bylus/turtagro.html [4-327]

[4-328 |] Choose Your Trip According to Appetite [4-329] Setting up an appropriate hiking trip is in many ways like composing a successful dinner menu. [4-330] It is wise to begin with a little appetizer to prepare the body for the main course, and it is always good to have a dessert, as a kind of reward for having completed the task. [4-331] In choosing the trip proposals in these pamphlets, I have tried to keep this in mind. [4-332] The trips need to be varied and have some peak moments in more than the literal sense along the way. [4-333] Hopefully, I have succeeded. [4-334] In any event, there is enough from which to choose, whether one prefers several appetizers, copious main courses or tempting desserts. [4-335] The various trip menus are designed so that you can do them in the opposite direction, or combine parts of different menus to make your own version. [4-336] In terms of the details in the trip menus, the length of the suggested legs is given in hours. [4-337] For novices in the mountains, this may seem a little strange. [4-338] But that is how things are in the Norwegian mountains, as well. [4-339] The terrain is so diverse that meters and kilometers become misleading. [4-340] It makes no sense to compare a thousand meters of steep, rocky hillside in Jotunheimen with a one-kilometer stroll through Frogner Park. [4-341] The time that an average hiker can expect to spend is much more informative for the majority of us. [4-342] The number of hours and an overview of the marked trails are also indicated on the map in the back of the pamphlet. [4-343] As you read the various trip proposals, you should have one finger on the map. [4-344] The description of the route will be much more informative if you do so. [4-345] If you want to learn more about an area you want to explore, you should become a member of DNT and get hold of On Foot in Norway. [4-346] All of the marked routes are described here, and the book also contains much information about Jotunheimen and other mountain areas. [4-347] Before you get started choosing your tour menu, there's just one more thing: Remember that it is fine to eat your fill, but uncomfortable when you overeat. [4-348]

[4-349 |] Degree of difficulty of the trips [4-350 |] g = EASY [4-351 |] gg = AVERAGE [4-352 |] ggg = STRENUOUS [4-353]

[4-354 |] To the Summit of Galdhøpiggen from Spiterstulen [4-355 |] Trip 4a - 1 day - gg - Guide available [4-356]

[4-357] In 1884, Professor B.M. Keilhau, «The discoverer of Jotunheimen», and some students were based at Spiterstulen. [4-358] They made an attempt at climbing Galdhøpiggen, but had to turn back short of the top, later called Keilhaus' Summit. [4-359] The first ascent occurred in 1850, and it was three men from Bøverdalen who achieved the feat. [4-360] These were the manager of Spiterstulen, Steinar Sulheim, and two teachers from Bøverdalen, J. Arnesen and J. Flåten. [4-361] Already in 1855, the first tourist, Axel Arbo, reached the summit, and many others wanted to try their skill. [4-362] For many years there were guides to «Piggen» out of Spiterstulen, but today it is not usual to have a guide along this stretch. [4-363] On the other hand, Spiterstulen has guided glacier trips on the Svellnosbreen glacier, see Trip 4c. [4-364] One of the routes used by the guides is to hike up the entire surface of the glacier and then continue up into the gorge between Keilhaus' Summit and Galdhøpiggen. [4-365] From there, it is only a short trip to the summit of «Piggen». [4-366] The return trip is down via the usual route to Spiterstulen. [4-367]

[4-368 |] 1. Spiterstulen to Galdhøpiggen [4-369] The normal route to Galdhøpiggen from Spiterstulen runs right up the valley flank. [4-370] After crossing Visa by bridge, you very quickly begin the ascent to the summit. [4-371] The route goes first up along Piggrovi, and after a little less than a kilometer, there is a fork for the trail to Juvasshytta. [4-372] From Svellnoså, the route is partially through rocky terrain and glacial snow cover up to the top of Keilhaus' Summit. [4-373] Crevices may be encountered, so follow the markings carefully. [4-374] From the plateau there is a slight descent before you begin climbing the last incline up toward Norway's tallest peak. [4-375]

[4-376 |] The Lodges on Galdhøpiggen [4-377] Except for a period of five years from 1970 to 1975, there have been buildings on Galdhøpiggen ever since 1888. [4-378] Knud O. Vole built the first at Juvasshytta. [4-379] In 1925, Lars Sulheim of Spiterstulen then put up a log cabin, Steinarstugu, on the summit. [4-380] Knut K. Vole later built a new cabin in 1926. [4-381] For a time during the 1950's, Steinarstugu was staffed and was also awarded status as a «Postal house», with its own postmark. [4-382] In 1960, even the people who operated Volehytta began serving meals to tourists. [4-383] Failure came abruptly for both, however: Palm Sunday 1961, Steinarstugu was blown away by gales; debris was found as far away as Smiugjelet east of Visdalen! [4-384] In 1970, winter gales took Volehytta. [4-385] In 1975, a new cabin of glass and stone was completed, designed by Torbjørn Fjeldstad. [4-386] The builders at that time were Ragnhild and Tora Vole. [4-387]

[4-388 |] Facts [4-389 |] Length [4-390] Spiterstulen - Galdhøpiggen, 4 hrs. up, 2 hrs. down. [4-391]

[4-392 |] Overnight Accommodations [4-393 |] Spiterstulen [4-394]

[4-395 |] Communications [4-396] There is an automobile road and bus route to Spiterstulen. [4-397]

[4-398 |] To the Summit of Galdhøpiggen from Juvasshytta [4-399]

[4-400 |] Trip 4b - 1 day - g - Guide available [4-401]

[4-402 |] 1. Juvasshytta to Galdhøpiggen [4-403] The first ascent of Galdhøpiggen started from Spiterstulen, but the guide from Røisheim, Ole Røisheim, quickly found a direct route to the summit from down at his location, and many hired him to guide them to the top. [4-404] The route from Røisheim is marked still today, but it has been used very little after a trail to Juvasshytta was established. [4-405] The route goes up the hillside from Røisheim, past Raubergstulen and Juvasshytta to Galdhøpiggen, taking about 8 hrs. [4-406] It is absolutely advisable to try the pioneer's route; remember that before Juvasshytta was built in 1884, tourists had to climb both up and down again in only one day! [4-407] After Juvasshytta was opened and a road was eventually built, increasingly more climbers began their trips to Galdhøpiggen from that side. [4-408] Since Juvasshytta was located more than 700 meters higher than Spiterstulen, the choice was understandable. [4-409] Most people going to Galdhøpiggen today choose to follow a guide from Juvasshytta to the summit. [4-410] During the summer season, guided trips run daily at 10 a.m. and 11:30 a.m., and occasional extra trips are also arranged. [4-411] Register at Juvasshytta. [4-412] The route to Norway's tallest mountain goes across Juvflya and inward on the Stygge glacier. [4-413] There are many crevices here, and they are often hidden by snow cover. [4-414] If you do not have a guide with you, you it is important that you are an experienced glacier hiker and that you have the necessary safety equipment. [4-415] The route continues up toward Galdhøpiggen's northern branch and the steep ascent up the crest to the top. [4-416] At the summit, there is a little cafeteria. [4-417] Most climbers who follow a guide to the top make the return trip via the same route, but it is possible to make the descent from the top down to Spiterstulen along the marked route across Keilhaus' Summit, see Trip 4a. [4-418]

[4-419 |] A Highlight [4-420] Knud Vole was both the founder of Juvashytta and a legendary mountain guide at Galdhøpiggen. [4-421] In his day, it was considered quite a feat to reach the top and it was duly celebrated, both on the top of Piggen itself and upon one's safe return to Juvasshytta in the evening. [4-422] The following is an interesting account from a large climbing party 21 July 1898: [4-423] «... we had frightful weather, but our mood improved nonetheless, especially with the help of 2 ½ bottles of champagne, 2 bottles of port wine and 1 bottle of sherry, as well as the performing talents of certain members of the group. » [4-424] Perhaps it is wise to save most of the celebrating until after one is back at Juvasshytta... [4-425]

[4-426 |] Facts [4-427 |] Length [4-428] Juvasshytta - Galdhøpiggen, 3 hrs. up, 2 hrs. down. [4-429]

[4-430 |] Overnight Accommodations [4-431] Juvasshytta and Raubergstulen. [4-432]

[4-433 |] Communications [4-434] Automobile and bus route to Juvasshytta. [4-435]

[4-436 |] Trip Across the Glacier [4-437 |] Trip 4c - 4-5 days - gg - Guide available [4-438]

[4-439] You can do a lot of glacier hiking in Jotunheimen without having to complete a glacier hiking course. [4-440] There are guides to several of the glaciers, and a combination of several of them is a true string of pearls. [4-441]

[4-442 |] 1. Spiterstulen to Leirvassbu [4-443] You really should have a little experience with glacier hiking before making this trip, which will take you across several glaciers. [4-444] It is very popular to hike on the blue ice of Svellnosbreen, and it is a good idea to set aside a day to go with Spiterstulen's mountain guides for such a trip (see box). [4-445] The hike to Leirvassbu is also a fine experience. [4-446] Many people call the walk through Visdalen Jotunheimen's "charm zone", and with good reason. [4-447] The valley is wide and beautiful, the path is good, and there are soaring peaks on both sides. [4-448] After going a kilometer, you will see the remains of the first Spiterstulen, beneath Styggehø, on the other side of the river. [4-449] Across Hellstuguåa there is a bridge, and after a couple of kilometers, the trail from Leivassbu divides off from the one to Gjendebu. [4-450] You must keep to the right. [4-451] Further inside the valley, you eventually pass the river from Semelholtjønnet, and you have to cross the upper portion of Visa; both of these are easy to cross by stepping from stone to stone. [4-452] Up on Kyrkjeglupen, there is some difficult rocky terrain, but it is not hard to follow the marking that goes along the northern side of Kyrkjetjørna and four other small lakes. [4-453] Eventually Leirvassbu comes into view on the other side of Leirvatnet, and you are soon there. [4-454]

[4-455 |] 2. Leirvassbu to Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta [4-456] Every morning at about 9:30 a.m. during the summer season from the beginning of July until mid-August, a guide sets out from Leirvassbu taking tourists west across Smørstabbreen. [4-457] At the same time, a guide starts out from Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta taking tourists east across the glacier. [4-458] You may register for the trip at all three lodges the evening before. [4-459] Following a guide across the glacier is a good alternative for hikers other than those lacking glacier hiking experience, and it is not very expensive, either. [4-460] The guide has rope, crampons and necessary safety equipment. [4-461] The route goes up to 1800 meters above sea level and is challenging in poor weather, so be extra particular about bringing proper wind clothing, rain wear and warm garments. [4-462] For the first kilometers from Leirvassbu to the gorge, you can either hike the old service road in the valley or along a path that runs more or less parallel with the road. [4-463] After that, you climb uphill toward the gorge between Stetind and Surtningstind. [4-464] The route first crosses the steep Surtningsbreen, which may be slippery and difficult when the snow is hard. [4-465] After that, you head down over Sandelvbrean and then upward over the glacier beneath Storebjørn; be careful, there are usually a number of crevices here. [4-466] The route then continues northwest across the glacier situated a little to the west of Kalven, before it begins to go downward again. [4-467] The descent on the western side is usually done on the northern side of Bøverbreen glacier. [4-468] Once you have come down off the glacier, you will have to choose whether you will spend the night at Krossbu or at Sognefjellhytta. [4-469] The distance is a little longer to the latter, if you hike over the glacier in this direction. [4-470]

[4-471 |] 3. Sognefjellhytta or Krossbu to Fannaråkhytta [4-472] There is a marked route from both tourist lodges to the edge of Fannaråk glacier. [4-473] The routes converge before Prestesteinsvatnet and run together to the glacier. [4-474] If you plan to cross the glacier, you will have to have experience hiking on glaciers and the necessary equipment, or go with a guide. [4-475] There are daily guided glacier hikes from the beginning of July to the end of August. [4-476] The guide stays at Fannaråken and meets tourists at the lower edge of the glacier at 1 p.m. [4-477] You will have to provide information as to whether you want guiding to Krossbu or to Sognefjellhytta the evening before. [4-478] The route across the glacier is steep in the beginning, but gradually slackens off. [4-479] There are both crevices and water holes that may be covered with snow, so beware. [4-480] The route goes toward the steep eastern incline of Fannaråken, and it is somewhat sloping and steep toward the end, before you get to the mountain ridge and merge onto the route from Skogadalsbøen. [4-481] From Fannaråknosi and as far as the lodge, there is a path on a plateau offering a fine panorama. [4-482]

[4-483 |] 4. Fannaråkhytta to Turtagrø [4-484] If the view is good from Fannaråken, a late evening may be spent and an outing at such a place may be enjoyable; the area abounds in natural mountain nature to be enjoyed on the entire surrounding horizon. [4-485] Not much effort is required; the trip to Turtagrø is unusually easy. [4-486] It runs gracefully down the ridge on the western side of Fannaråken; there is a lot of rocky terrain, but the path is good. [4-487] After passing Ekrehytta, it continues down into Helgedalen. [4-488] Here, a relatively newly built farm road has been built, and it is easy to follow all the way out to the cabins some distance out in the valley. [4-489] From there, you leave the road and follow the path for another kilometer around the curve and to Turtagrø. [4-490] Unfortunately, Turtagrø Hotel burned in January 2001. [4-491] Therefore, spending the night there will be a little makeshift in the immediate future, while a new building is being built. [4-492] Inquire about the conditions in advance by contacting DNT or the hotel directly. [4-493]

[4-494 |] Svellnosbreen Glacier and Other Splendors [4-495] There are a host of day trip opportunities around Spiterstulen; among the most popular is without a doubt Svellnosbreen glacier. [4-496] Many mountain hikers gained their first glacier-hiking experience on this glacier, which is located under the southern wall of Galdhøpiggen. [4-497] Since 1949, guides at Spiterstulen have led thousands of tourists on this craggy glacial surface. [4-498] Tourists bound together by guide ropes and equipped with crampons have followed guides deep into the crevices. [4-499] Glacier hiking alternates with excursions into deep, dark caves beneath the glacier, with meter-long, thick icicles, icy columns and spires jutting up into the daylight. [4-500] The ice formations have been dubbed Kjellargluggen, Soria Moria Castle, Halli, The Labyrinth, The Cheerful Corner, the Pearly Gates, etc. [4-501] Trips to this "Icy Adventure land" have undoubtedly been responsible for the upsurge in interest for glacier sports in Norway. [4-502]

[4-503 |] Length [4-504] Spiterstulen - Leirvassbu, 5 hrs. [4-505] Leirvassbu - Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta, 6 hrs. [4-506] Sognefjellhytta or Krossbu - Fannaråkhytta, 5 hrs. [4-507] Fannaråkhytta - Turtagrø, 3 hrs. down, 4 hrs. up. [4-508]

[4-509 |] Overnight Accommodations [4-510] Spiterstulen, Leirvassbu, Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Fannaråkhytta and Turtagrø. [4-511] The latter is unconfirmed as of March 2001. [4-512]

[4-513 |] Communications [4-514] There is an automobile road and bus routes to all of the lodges except Fannaråkhytta. [4-515]

[4-516 |] A Taste of Breheimen [4-517 |] Trip 4d - 2-3 days - gg-ggg [4-518] The area northwest of Jotunheimen bears the name Breheimen. [4-519] The terrain is not much different in either of the mountain regions: glaciers and mountains dominate in both places, but they also offer deep, lush valleys and great contrasts. [4-520] I have designed a couple of trips north of the Sognefjell road that should provide a suitable impression of the natural surroundings in Breheimen, and that begin with a round trip between the three staffed lodges. [4-521]

[4-522 |] 1. Krossbu/Sognefjellhytta to Nørdstedalseter [4-523] This is the longest leg of the round trip, and many people undoubtedly think that 8 hours' walking time is overdoing things. [4-524] It is possible, however, to make the leg somewhat shorter. [4-525] About three kilometers west of Sognefjellhytta, there is in fact an old service road in to Storevatnet. [4-526] It is perfectly drivable and open. [4-527] You may drive to the end of the road, park your car and return to this point after you have completed your round trip via Bøvertun. [4-528] In this way, you save yourself a couple hours' hiking to Nørdstedalseter. [4-529] Those who do not have a car can ask the hosts at Krossbu or Sognefjellhytta to drive them up. [4-530] The usual routes from Krossbu and Sognefjellhytta, incidentally, converge west of Krosshø. [4-531] After about one kilometer, there is a new fork in the road for the route to Bøvertun. [4-532] The trail runs through some nooks and crannies here and there, but this is unavoidable, because there are so many escarpments and cross-valleys in this area. [4-533] The path descends to the dam at the south end of Storevatnet and crosses it, and then there are several nooks and crannies to pass in order to get around Kjerringhetta. [4-534] After that, the course bears to the north and upward over a relatively steep ridge, usually across some snowy surfaces and then slackening off down to the fork on the trail toward Bøvertun. [4-535] You bear west and go down toward Liabrevatnet, which you pass on the north side at the outlet. [4-536] The stream from the lake must often be waded across. [4-537] The route goes uphill again and over yet another ridge. [4-538] Fortunately, you can look forward to a gorgeous view out over Liabreen and Liabrevatnet. [4-539] But then it is downhill for the rest of the trip, first past upper Grønevatnet on the western side and then lower Grønevatnet on the northern side. [4-540] From then on, the route continues along an easy path through Vetledalen to Nørdstedalseter. [4-541]

[4-542 |] 2. Nørdstedalseter to Bøvertun [4-543] Each downhill meter that you put behind you at the end of the trip from Sognefjellet will have to be done uphill again before you get to Bøvertun. [4-544] At the summit of Tverrbyttfjellet, the trail forks, and for Bøvertun, you bear to the left. [4-545] The path soon begins a steep descent past the northern end of Storevatn. [4-546] After that, the terrain is a little hilly before once again plunging steeply down to Bøvertun, located in the lush greenery on the southern end of a lovely lake. [4-547]

[4-548 |] 3. Bøvertun to Krossbu/ Sognefjellhytta [4-549] Bøvertun is located on the Sognefjell road, and of course it is possible to end the trip here, but I recommend that you go on foot back to your point of departure, since you will be able to visit beautiful Dummdalen and its special grottos (see box). [4-550] The trip starts from the main road about 500 meters south of the lodge. [4-551] You follow Dummdalen to Svarttjørna. [4-552] Farther south, the route runs through hilly terrain as far as the fork in the road for Sognefjellet and Nørdstedalseter. [4-553] If you parked your car at Storevatnet, you should take the path to the right; if you are headed to the lodges on Sognefjell road, you choose the route to the left. [4-554] After a little less than a kilometer, the route divides again, Krossbu to the left, Sognefjellhytta to the right. [4-555]

[4-556 |] The Dummdalen Grottos [4-557] At the deepest point in Dummdalen is Southern Norway's largest system of grottos. [4-558] They were formed by the river eroding and drilling into the limy ground for thousands of years. [4-559] So far, six of the grottos have been marked, and the largest is more than 250 meters long. [4-560] The first one is located just next to the Sognefjell road. [4-561] The entrances are generally very narrow, and there is also the risk of falling rocks from the roof, so be careful! [4-562] Guided trips to the grottos are offered. [4-563] Information is provided by the Jotunheimen Tourist Association in Lom. [4-564]

[4-565 |] Length [4-566] Krossbu and Sognefjellhytta - Nørdstedalseter, 8 hrs. [4-567] Bøvertun - Nørdstedalseter, 6 hrs. [4-568] Bøvertun - Krossbu and Sognefjellhytta, 5 hrs. [4-569]

[4-570 |] Overnight Accommodations [4-571 |] Krossbu, Sognefjellhytta, Nørdstedalseter and Bøvertun. [4-572]

[4-573 |] Communications [4-574] Automobile road and regularly scheduled bus stops along Sognefjell road. [4-575] Automobile road to Nørdstedalseter. [4-576]

[4-577 |] The Main Road to Breheimen [4-578 |] Trip 4e - 3-4 days - gg-ggg [4-579]

[4-580] Not to detract from any of the other routes through Jotunheimen and Breheimen, I would maintain that the finest gateway goes from Turtagrø and across Liabrekulen to Nørdstedalseter. [4-581] The trip across the 1800-meter high glacier is magnificent. [4-582] Once the Stølsdalen self-service lodge was in place, the distance between the lodges is not so great, either. [4-583] This map covers only as far as Nørdstedalseter and Trulsbu, but the trip in the Breheimen mountains definitely doesn't need to end there. [4-584] Both to the west and to the north in Breheimen, there are marked trails and lodges, so get additional maps and become acquainted with this spectacular area, too. [4-585]

[4-586 |] 1.Turtagrø to Stølsdalen [4-587] Turtagrø burned in January 2001, so that if you plan to spend the night there, you should check the situation in advance. [4-588] Fortunately, the first leg of the trip is short enough to be covered even if you begin relatively late in the day. [4-589] The route starts up a steep slope just below Turtagrø and goes up to a waste rock dump before you continue on to Gjesingedalen. [4-590] The river through the valley is not usually a problem to cross by stepping from stone to stone. [4-591] After Skålabotnskaret, you come down to the abandoned Skålabotn pasture. [4-592] From here, the terrain is quite difficult and steep, so you should carefully follow the markings. [4-593] The river on the valley floor can also be crossed by stepping from stone to stone. [4-594] Then the course runs uphill again along the old cow path to the lodge. [4-595] Be aware of the fact that you will be unable to cross the river if the power company has opened the dam, and that you will then need to follow the old path up past Nedre Skålavatnet to the trail from Sognefjellet to Stølsdalen. [4-596] Fortunately, this seldom occurs during the summer season. [4-597]

[4-598 |] 1. Alternative: Fortundalen to Stølsdalen [4-599] Instead of starting from Turtagrø, it is possible to follow the marked route to Stølsdalen down from Svensøy in Fortundalen. [4-600] The trip takes about as long to walk; it is shorter, but it entails significantly greater differences in height! [4-601] This is also an alternative if you want to end your trip in Stølsdalen. [4-602] The route first follows the automobile road past the bridge over Granfasta. [4-603] After that, it follows the old mountain farm path past Nedstestølen, Øvstestølen and then follows the so-called Bjørnstigen across the ridge to the lodge. [4-604 |] 2. Stølsdalen to Nørdstedalseter [4-605] This is the zenith of your trip, in a literal sense. [4-606] From the lodge, the route ascends fairly steadily, first past a fork in the trail to the marker for the return to Skålavatnet, and then onward all the way to the summit of Liabreen. [4-607] At the Liaflua heights, the route runs across a small glacier arm, so be careful to follow the markings! [4-608] This is a route that should not be hiked when visibility is poor, but not only because of the fantastic view you can experience along the way. [4-609] The marked trail runs a little less than one kilometer west of the Liabreen summit. [4-610] From there, the route continues steeply out between the glacier and Tverrdalsnosi, but you will not go onto the glacier itself. [4-611] The marked trail continues steeply downhill toward Vetledalen, where there is a spot for wading across the river. [4-612] In the course of just a few kilometers, you can experience the gamut of full winter at the summit to full summer down in Vetledalen. [4-613] After crossing Vetledøla, you will merge with the route from Sognefjellet (see Trip 4d) and can follow it down to Nørdstedalseter. [4-614]

[4-615 |] 3. Nørdstedalseter to Trulsbu [4-616] Although it is about 10 kilometers on the service road during the first part of this trip, don't let this frighten you.