[2-1 |] Eidsbugarden [2-2 |] In the Spirit of Vinje [2-3] No other name is as closely associated with Eidsbugarden on the west bank of Jotunheimen's largest lake, Bygdin, as that of the poet A. O. Vinje. [2-4] He is credited with naming this mountain massif Home of the Giants - Jotunheimen, and his poetry played a key role in the growing interest in Norwegian mountains at the end of the 1800s. [2-5] From 1863 until his death Vinje and his friends spent several weeks in the mountains every summer, some of these at the west end of Bygdin. [2-6] The summer of 1868 Vinje and three of his friends inaugurated their cabin with the fitting name Eidsbugarden. [2-7] The often penniless Vinje had trouble financing his part of the project and had to borrow from DNT-founder Consul Thomas Heftye. [2-8] When Vinje died, Heftye thus became a part owner, and by and by he bought out the rest. [2-9] The enterprising Heftye hired the well-known mountain guide Ole Røisheim from Bøverdalen to look after and then run a tourist hut. [2-10] Røisheim built on to and managed Eidsbugarden very competently, first for Heftye - and then for his son - until 1906, when he turned 79! [2-11] In 1905 a motorboat service was started on Bygdin, and a year later Kristoffer Kvame, reindeer owner and mountain man from Valdres, and the wealthy Einar Andersen from Oslo bought Eidsbugarden. [2-12] Kvame became sole owner in 1909, and during his time Eidsbugarden also expanded considerably. [2-13] When Norway's new royal family visited in 1909, the large, red Eidsbugarden building was described as "indisputably the most comfortable hotel in Jotunheimen." [2-14] The buildings were further expanded in the 1920s and several times later. [2-15] The Kvame family ran the hotel until 1974, when it was sold to Eidsbugarden Turistsenter. [2-16] For longer periods during the 1980s and 1990s it was not possible to keep the place going, but now the historic old hotel is again up and running. [2-17]

[2-18 |] Access [2-19] Road to the hotel and boat service on Bygdin. [2-20] Marked trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen, and Yksendalsbu. [2-21]

[2-22 |] Facts [2-23] Eidsbugarden Hotell's predecessor, the Vinje cabin, was built in 1868. [2-24 |] Owner: Hans Martin Skagen. [2-25 |] Manager: Leif Skagen. [2-26] Located in Vang, Oppland, at 3500 feet, 50 beds. [2-27 |] Tel. 61 36 77 14. [2-28 |] E-mail: ocdahl@online.no [2-29 |] Fondsbu [2-30 |] New Hut by the Old Gateway [2-31]

[2-32] In 1992 Fondsfinans AS bought the annex at Eidsbugarden, "The Happy Hiker," and rented it to DNT OA. [2-33] A year later, at DNT's 125th anniversary, the Fondsbu hikers' hut opened. [2-34] To DNT this has been almost like a return to the cradle of Jotunheimen hiking. [2-35] The hut's 26 beds were soon filled, requiring an addition. [2-36] The increase in visitors is largely thanks to the hut managers, who have done their utmost to market the place. [2-37] They have succeeded in making Fondsbu known as one of the best eateries in Jotunheimen. [2-38] Guided day trips to some local attractions keep many guests at Fondsbu a few extra days. [2-39] Lovers of a wild and varied landscape do not really need the incentive of delicious food or a guide to linger at Fondsbu. [2-40] You also do not need the sensitivity of the poet to feel the pull of the summit when you see the stunning facade Falketind turns to Koldedalen. [2-41] Every year many people retrace the steps of Keilhau, Boeck, and Urden, who first climbed it, in 1820. [2-42] The usual route runs from Andrevatnet in Morka-Koldedalen and across the glacier to the top. [2-43] If you are used to glaciers, the going will be easy; and most hikers combine this peak with a visit to neighboring Stølsnostind. [2-44] And the westward view from the latter, which includes the jagged Hurrungane across Utladalen, is a fine match for the spectacular eastward view from Falketind. [2-45] Once you are in the area, Uranostind also makes a fine trip. [2-46] Glacier-walking is needed here, as well. [2-47] You do not need to go that far for a view, however. [2-48] Skinnegga, at less than 5000 feet, is just a few short miles south of Fondsbu and Eidsbugarden, within easy reach on an afternoon hike, and what a view! [2-49]

[2-50 |] Access [2-51] Road to Fondsbu, boat service on Bygdin. [2-52] Marked trails to Gjendebu, Torfinnsbu, Olavsbu, Skogadalsbøen, and Yksendalsbu. [2-53]

[2-54 |] Facts [2-55] Fondsbu opened in 1993. [2-56 |] Owner: Fondsfinans AS. [2-57 |] Renter: DNT OA [2-58 |] Managers: Nina Schreiber and Helge Lindstad. [2-59] Located in Vang, Oppland, at 3500 feet, 90 beds. [2-60 |] Tel. 970 74 218. [2-61 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "Hytter" [2-62]

[2-63 |] Olavsbu [2-64 |] Well-Placed Self-Service Hut [2-65] Long before the war DNT began hoping for a hut in Raudalen, in order to spread the traffic in Jotunheimen. [2-66] The trails from Gjendebu to Skogadalsbøen, and from Leirvassbu to Eidsbugarden were so long that many people avoided the area. [2-67] A hut at the junction of these two trails at the upper end of Raudalen would thus give hut-to-hut hikers more options and cut the day's hike in half. [2-68] When DNT received a generous donation from the shipowner Olav Ringdal and his wife to build a hut in memory of their son Olav, who had died in the war, it was soon decided where to place the hut to best advantage. [2-69] And what advantage - not only do these two major trails cross practically on the hut's front steps, but Olavsbu sits at the base of some of finest peaks in Jotunheimen. [2-70] Right in front the elegant Mjølkedalstind towers at 7009 feet (trip description, see Booklet 3). [2-71] At its back Olavsbu has the long, curved Raudalsegga at 7111. [2-72] It was first climbed in 1906, by Ferdinand Schelderup and Agnes Jakhelln. [2-73] The direct route behind the hut calls for climbing with ropes, but it is possible to get to the top walking from Storådalen. [2-74] Every bit as striking are Sjogholstind, Skardalstind, and Raudalstindane, which are all within an easy day hike from Olavsbu. [2-75] Olavsbu opened in 1952 and gained popularity so rapidly that it had to be expanded already in 1960. [2-76] Later Olavsbu has been built on to several times, turning it into one of DNT's biggest self-service huts, with 40 beds. [2-77] These are all needed, with a yearly record of more than 3000 overnight stays. [2-78]

[2-79 |] Access [2-80] Marked trails to Gjendebu, Leirvassbu, Skogadalsbøen, Eidsbugarden, and Fondsbu. [2-81]

[2-82 |] Facts [2-83] Olavsbu opened in 1952. [2-84 |] Owner: DNT OA. [2-85] Located in Luster, Sogn og Fjordane, at 4700 feet, 40 beds. [2-86 |] No telephone. [2-87 |] URL: www.dntoa.no "Hytter" [2-88]

[2-89 |] Haugseter fjellstue [2-90 |] Traditions by Lake Vinstri [2-91]

[2-92] At Mørstadstølen, near the eastern end of the big lake Vinstri, archaeologists have uncovered the remains of a stone-age settlement. [2-93] Arrowheads found nearby reveal our fur-clad ancestors' purpose for being in the mountains. [2-94] Humans have probably used this area fairly regularly ever since, both for hunting and fishing. [2-95] Summering by Vinstri was also an early favorite. [2-96] Before the war there were at least fifty summer dairies along the banks; some of them are still in use. [2-97] Close by Mørstadstølen lies Haugseter. [2-98] Its reputation as a hikers' lodge goes back to the 1860s. [2-99] As it became ever more common to enter Jotunheimen from the western part of Gausdal Vestfjell, this was a natural stopover. [2-100] The tourists were at first part of the household, but in 1876 Øystein Rudi and his wife, Ingrid, built a separate hikers' hut right next-door. [2-101] They ran it until 1910, when their daughter Marit and her husband Tollef Haavi took over. [2-102] In 1919 the rebuilding was so extensive that the name was changed to Haugseter Hotell for a few years. [2-103] Many visitors were also brought by rowboat. [2-104] Hikers arriving at the shore opposite Haugseter raised a white banner to signal their need for a boat. [2-105] In 1911 a motorboat service started on Vinstri, as it had on the large lakes in Jotunheimen. [2-106] The boat ran until 1954, when the Jotunheimen Road between Bygdin and Skåbu was finished. [2-107] However, the water was not simply for travel - fishing tempted locals and visitors alike. [2-108] Sadly, Haugseter burnt to the ground in 1989. [2-109] Fortunately it has been rebuilt in the old style, which should please travelers arriving either on foot or by car. [2-110]

[2-111 |] Access [2-112] The Jotunheimen Road from Bygdin to Skåbu passes the lodge. [2-113 |] Marked trails to Gjendesheim, Oskampen, and Storeskag. [2-114]

[2-115 |] Facts [2-116] Haugseter Fjellstue has had visitors since the 1860s. [2-117 |] Owners: Rønjus Nordtorp and Kari Hauge. [2-118 |] Located in Øystre Slidre, Oppland, at 3400 feet, 64 beds. [2-119 |] Tel. 61 34 15 10 [2-120]

[2-121 |] Torfinnsbu [2-122 |] The Hut that Moved [2-123]

[2-124] In 1867 a log cabin was put up next to an old stone hut at Nybua, about halfway down the 17.5-mile-long Bygdin, the biggest lake in Jotunheimen. [2-125] The cabin was meant to house the herdsmen who spent much of the summer here with their animals, but already in 1870 hikers began to stay. [2-126] In 1876 William C. Slingsby, Emanuel Mohn, and Knut Lykken visited on their way west to climb Store Skagastølstind. [2-127] In 1888 DNT received an offer to buy the hut, but they only did so in 1901. [2-128] Then the club closed their Tvindehaugen hut by Bygdin, dismantled the building and carried the timber east. [2-129] About half a mile east of Nybua, where Torfinnsdøla enters Bygdin, DNT found a prime site, and in 1905 the hut was up. [2-130] It took only a few years, however, for this one to grow too small, so in 1909 it was expanded and given the more appropriate name of Torfinnsbu, after the river and the adjacent peaks. [2-131] In 1913 it was taken over by the landowners, who had an option to buy after ten years. [2-132] Torfinnsbu's hutmasters through the years have by their efforts created a place well-loved by hikers, which is what really counts. [2-133] In more recent years the hut has also been extensively modernized, making it fit for welcoming even more travelers. [2-134] Climbers early showed an interest in Torfinnsbu and still do. [2-135] Torfinnstindane are especially impressive seen from Bygdin. [2-136] On their visit Slingsby and his party were able to add Østre Torfinnstind at 6950 feet to their long list of first ascents. [2-137] The route from Torfinnsbu to the highest peak in Torfinnstindane is quite open and exposed in spots, although not particularly difficult or requiring climbing skills. [2-138] The same may be said of most of the high peaks around Torfinnsbu. [2-139] The exceptions are the middle Torfinnstindane summit and the southern needle on Knutseggi across Svartdalen. [2-140] If needed, a good guidebook to the peaks in the area is available. [2-141] In the summer it is also a good idea to combine the day trip from Torfinnsbu with a boat trip on Bygdin. [2-142] It opens up more possibilities for enticing hikes in the vicinity of Jotunheimen's largest lake. [2-143 |] Access [2-144] Boat service on Bygdin all summer. [2-145] Marked trails to Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Gjendebu, Valdresflya VH (hostel), and Bygdin Fjellhotell. [2-146]

[2-147 |] Facts [2-148] Torfinnsbu opened in 1905, its predecessor Nybod in 1870. [2-149 |] Owner: Arvid Skredbergene. [2-150] Located in Vang, Oppland, at 3500 feet, 36 beds. [2-151 |] Tel. 958 83 398. [2-152]

[2-153 |] Yksendalsbu [2-154 |] New Hut, Old Route [2-155]

[2-156] Yksendalen is green and gorgeous, stretching west for six miles from Olefjorden south of Bygdin toward Steinbusjøen. [2-157] No wonder the valley was used as a gateway to Jotunheimen from the very start of hiking in these mountains. [2-158] But most of those who enjoyed the greenery in Yksendalen were not bipeds but quadrupeds. [2-159] As the name indicates, oxen grazed in the valley, which may have been used for cattle as early as 1800, with up to 100 well-fed bulls at the busiest time. [2-160] For years the hut in Yksendalen housed the herdsmen of the Oppland farmers' cooperative, who looked after breeders from Valdres and Vestoppland. [2-161] The bulls were sent to the mountains to gain weight and strength for a new breeding season. [2-162] In a different age, when vets, test tubes, and artificial insemination took over the job of the amorous bull, the need for mountain pasturage disappeared. [2-163] A few years after the war this era had come to an end in the valley. [2-164] The needs of the bipeds also changed as other forms of travel gained ground. [2-165] The summer shelters were closed up and the trails grew over. [2-166] In the 1980s there were several proposals to reopen this splendid gateway to Jotunheimen, but this called for a new hut. [2-167] Only when the famous real-estate king Olav Thon chipped in with a generous donation did plans move ahead. [2-168] DNT was lucky enough to rent the old herdsmen's cabin in Yksendalen. [2-169] It was the perfect place for a hikers' hut, sitting roughly midway between Beitostølen and Fondsbu. [2-170] It was thoroughly renovated, and an annex was built nearby. [2-171] In February 1994 the hut was ready for guests, and that first winter well over a hundred visitors found their way to Yksendalen. [2-172] In subsequent years more people have discovered this route to Fondsbu. [2-173] Parts of the trip are spectacular, especially from Yksendalsbu over to Vennisstøldalen. [2-174] Another fine hike is the newly marked trail to Bygdin Fjellhotell along the ridge between Olefjorden and Bygdin. [2-175]

[2-176 |] Beitostølen [2-177] It is only in recent years that Beitostølen has turned into a tourist haunt. [2-178] In earlier times it was a busy summer farm that grew silent in the winter. [2-179] Only rarely was that silence broken by a lone ptarmigan hunter or a farmer who needed to make the trip up to fetch some stored hay. [2-180] Winter plowing of the road to Beitostølen only began in 1934, and it took another thirty years for the first ski lift to be built. [2-181] Today Beitostølen is busy most of the year. [2-182] There are lots of private cabins, and the area has alpine hotels, lodges, and rental cabins with a total of some two thousand beds. [2-183] There are six ski lifts and some sixty miles of ski trails. [2-184] In the summer Beitostølen is also a good starting point for trips into Jotunheimen. [2-185] None of the marked trails lead all the way to Beitostølen, but you only need to get to Bygdin or Gjende to start hiking the T-marked trails. [2-186]

[2-187 |] Facts [2-188 |] Beitostølen Tourist Information. [2-189 |] Tel. 61 34 10 06. [2-190 |] E-mail: turistko@online.no [2-191] Lodging is available in and around Beitostølen at the following places: [2-192]

[2-193 |] Beitostølen Høyfjellshotell, ca 200 beds, 9 cabins, tel: 61 34 13 00, e-mail: booking@beito.no [2-194 |] Beitostølen Camping, cabins, tel: 61 34 11 00, e-mail: info@beitocamp.no [2-195 |] Bergo Hotell, 66 beds, 12 cabins and 35 apartments, tel: 61 34 10 45, e-mail: booking@bergo.no [2-196 |] Bitigrenda Hytter, 15 cabin and 4 apartments, tel: 61 34 14 40, e-mail: bitihyt@online.no [2-197 |] Gjestegaarden Resort, 30 apartments, tel: 61 34 12 72, e-mail: konferansehuset@ol.telia.no [2-198 |] Kveto Fjellgard, 4 cabins, tel: 61 34 15 52/905 46 826 [2-199 |] Liahaugen Cabins, tel: 61 34 12 69. [2-200 |] Norlandia Bitihorn Hotell, ca. 100 beds, tel: 61 34 10 43, e-mail: service@bitihorn.norlandia.no [2-201 |] Feriehyttene, 19 cabins, tel: 61 34 10 44. [2-202 |] Fjellvang Hyttegrend, Beito, 4 cabins, tel: 61 34 10 14, e-mail: kolykken@online.no [2-203 |] Grønolen Fjellgård, Beito, 50 beds, 8 apartments, tel: 61 35 29 90, e-mail: gronolen@gronolen.no [2-204 |] Hegge Leiligheter, 32 apartments, 16 cabins, tel: 61 35 21 00, e-mail: marogne@online.no [2-205 |] Knuts Hyttegrend, 22 cabins and apartments, tel: 61 34 10 09, e-mail: knutshyt@online.no [2-206 |] Radisson SAS Resort, ca 300 beds, 6 cabins, tel. 61 35 20 00, e-mail: info@resort-beito.com [2-207 |] Øyang Turisthotell, Beito, ca 120 beds, tel: 61 34 11 21, e-mail: beito@online.no [2-208]

[2-209 |] Tyinholmen høyfjellstuer [2-210]

[2-211 |] Access [2-212] Road, marked trails to Skogadalsbøen, Vettismorki, and Slettningsbu. [2-213]

[2-214 |] Facts [2-215] Tyinholmen has welcomed guests since 1893. [2-216 |] Owners: Inger Sagstuen and Erling Olsen. [2-217] Located in Vang, Oppland, at 3500 feet, 65 beds in rental cabins. [2-218 |] Tel: 61 36 78 88. [2-219]

[2-220 |] Bygdin fjellhotell [2-221 |] Access [2-222] Rte 51 across Valdresflya. [2-223] Boat service on Bygdin. [2-224] Marked trails to Torfinnsbu and Yksendalsbu. [2-225] The latter trailhead lies 1.2 miles south of the hotel along the road. [2-226]

[2-227 |] Facts [2-228] Bygdin Fjellhotell opened around 1900. [2-229] Owner and manager: Per Otterness. [2-230] Located in Vang, Oppland, at 3500 feet, 90 beds. [2-231 |] Tel: 61 34 14 00. [2-232 |] Maurvangen Camping [2-233 |] Access [2-234] Road, bus service. [2-235] Marked trails to Gjendesheim and Sikkilsdalsseter. [2-236]

[2-237 |] Facts [2-238] Maurvangen Camping has been in operation since 1976. [2-239 |] Owner: Else Reiremo. [2-240] The campground is in Vågå, Oppland, at 3280 feet, 26 cabins. [2-241 |] Tel: 61 23 89 22. [2-242 |] Valdresflya vandrerhjem [2-243 |] Access [2-244] Rte 51 across Valdresflya. [2-245] Marked trail to Torfinnsbu, and partially marked to Gjendesheim. [2-246]

[2-247 |] Facts [2-248] Valdresflya VH (hostel) opened in 1952. [2-249 |] Owners: Norske Vandrerhjem, region øst. [2-250] Located in Øystre Slidre, Oppland, at 4560 feet, 46 beds. [2-251 |] Tel: 22 15 21 85 (Oslo office). [2-252 |] E-mail: vhregost@os.enitel.no [2-253 |] Tel: 941 07 021 (during the season). [2-254]

[2-255 |] Varied Hike South of Bygdin [2-256 |] Trip 2a - 2 days - gg [2-257] When hikers first came to Jotunheimen, many of them used Beitostølen as their point of entry, walking along the scenic Yksendalen, past Skinnegga to Eidsbugarden. [2-258] Reversing the route is even better, however. [2-259] In many spots there are wonderful vistas of the Jotunheimen massif. [2-260] The route is newly marked and leads to Bygdin Fjellhotell. [2-261] Using the road to Eidsbugarden and the boat on Bygdin turns this into a nice little loop. [2-262] If you have more days to spend, consider a trip around Bygdin by way of Torfinnsbu. [2-263 |] See Trip 2c. [2-264 |] Fondsbu - Yksendalsbu. [2-265] The hike starts at a steep, steady grade on a good, wide trail up to Vennisstøldalen. [2-266] After nearly a mile it forks, the wider fork continuing to Utsikten on Skinnegga (see box). [2-267] It is obviously a popular choice, and you can afford the detour. [2-268] The trail through Vennisstøldalen runs first across some grassy areas, and then on more uneven and rocky terrain. [2-269] Fortunately there are good cairns along the way. [2-270] The blazes continue along the south side of Dryllin, turning steeply down into Vølodalen. [2-271] At the bottom you have to make your way through the willow thicket, so watch the markers. [2-272] You can normally walk on dry rocks across the Vøloa river. [2-273] The trail continues along the lake to the south of Vølohornet, also here it turns rocky in parts. [2-274] An uphill to Vareggene is next, before a sharp drop down into the lush Yksendalen. [2-275] When you see how green the valley is, you can understand its former role as a haven for grazing oxen. [2-276] It has been a long time since these beasts terrified hikers, however, and today the old herdsmen's cabin has been taken over by DNT as a hikers' hut. [2-277] The trail-markers close to the hut are a bit unusual. [2-278] Due to the local dearth of rock and profusion of brush, red poles have been used. [2-279 |] Yksendalsbu - Bygdin [2-280] Today's hikers no longer need to fear the bulls in Yksendalen, so you can devote your attention to the view and the trail. [2-281] Since the marking is fairly recent, the path is not always obvious, so it pays to keep an eye on the map and the markers. [2-282] The trail starts by going west toward Skamdalen to a junction. [2-283] The right-hand branch can no longer be used due to the damming of Olefjorden. [2-284] You go in a northeasterly direction to Systerbottjernet, along its southern shore to the east toward Skjeldrehornet, over Oleberga, and to the north of Bergaåntjørn to Marabotthornet. [2-285] Along the way you pass a nice little crest with a fine view north and south, suitable for a stop. [2-286] A steady descent leads from the top of Marabotthornet toward Seksin, then south of the lake, following the hill eastward with a nice view of Raufjorden. [2-287] Bitihorn, at 5270 feet (a summit you should plan to visit!), is skirted to the north, and soon you get to the main road, which must be walked a short mile to Bygdin Fjellhotel. [2-288]

[2-289 |] Skinnegga [2-290] - Do you remember the view from Skinnegga that morning? [2-291] With the white fog lifting off the Skagastøl peaks, and the Koldedalen glacier gleaming like gold in the sun! [2-292] - Alas, I cannot go there this summer, sighed Aasmund Olavsson Vinje to his friend Sars as he lay dying at an Oslo hospital in 1870, then adding: [2-293] - But once I have been laid in my coffin, my spirit will take residence up there among the mountains, so I will sit up on Falketind, looking out over Norway and watching the ranges rise. [2-294] Skinnegga is proof that elevation is not always paramount in Jotunheimen. [2-295] Its lesser summit, Utsikten, at 4980 feet, lies a few miles south of Fondsbu, easily reached in an afternoon hike or as a detour on the trip to Yksendalsbu. [2-296 |] Distances [2-297 |] Fondsbu - Yksendalsbu, 6 h. [2-298 |] Yksendalsbu - Bygdin, 7 h. [2-299]

[2-300 |] Lodging [2-301] Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Bygdin Fjellhotell, and various places at Beitostølen. [2-302]

[2-303 |] Transportation [2-304] Road and bus service to Fondsbu, also to Bygdin Fjellhotell. [2-305] Boat service on Bygdin. [2-306]

[2-307 |] Popular High Peaks Loop [2-308 |] Trip 2b - 3 days - gg [2-309] Fondsbu is DNT's newest staffed hut in Jotunheimen, Gjendebu the oldest, and Olavsbu the largest self-service hut. [2-310] A loop that includes these, in fairly easy terrain, with optional side trips, is a favorite. [2-311 |] Fondsbu - Olavsbu [2-312] The first quarter-mile runs along a gravel road past the Vinje cabin and then crosses Mjølkedøla on a bridge before the trail turns off up along the river. [2-313] Hiking alongside the river, you will see how it got "milky" as part of its name. [2-314] At least it is grayish-white when the ice melt is at its height. [2-315] Up on the ridge before getting to the large Mjølkedalsvatn you enter Jotunheimen National Park, just as you are treated to a grand panorama. [2-316] The trail runs along the east side of the lake, into a small valley, and up to the gap between Høgbrothøgda and Mjølkedalstind. [2-317] Two side trails are crossed before the gap, first the trail to Skogadalsbøen leaving to the left, then, a few hundred yards on, the Gjendebu trail enters from the right and continues down the hill, where it joins the one to Skogadalsbøen. [2-318] But you go on through the gap, down toward upper Sjogholsvatnet, across a rockslide to the saddle between Mjølkedalstind and Sjogholstind. [2-319] From here there is more rock before getting to Olavsbu, but the view is fine, and the hut is strikingly situated. [2-320 |] Olavsbu - Gjendebu [2-321] The trail to Gjendebu is fairly nice and easy. [2-322] Apart from a few spots of scree and old snow, which tends to stay far into the summer at this elevation, the trail is good and well marked all along Raudalen to Grisletjørnene. [2-323] It skirts the southernmost of the tarns, meeting first the trail from Skogadalsbøen and, in another short mile, the one from Fondsbu. [2-324] High up in Raudalen vegetation is sparse, but as you descend into Vesleådalen, nature recovers nicely. [2-325] The birch forest crowds the trail, and in this area plant-lovers may spot species that prefer a fair amount of heat, even though we are at more than 3300 feet above sea level. [2-326] This says something about the fertile soil around Gjende. [2-327] The flowers are particularly profuse in early summer. [2-328] This is also the busiest season for the birds, a number of whom nest in the area. [2-329] The final half mile to the hut runs across a flat delta created by deposits from Storåa and Vesleåa. [2-330] The delta front advances every year, and in a few years it will not be possible to land even small boats by Gjendebu. [2-331] The quay for the ferryboat has long since been moved farther out. [2-332] Just before the hut Storåa is crossed on a sturdy bridge. [2-333] Notice the current and you will understand the forces that bring masses of sediment from the mountains. [2-334]

[2-335 |] Gjendebu - Fondsbu [2-336] Should you decide to complete the loop back to Fondsbu, you have several options. [2-337] There are marked trails to Torfinnsbu and on to Fondsbu, or you can take the boat on Bygdin. [2-338] But the shortest route is retracing your steps through Vesleådalen. [2-339] At the head of the valley, north of the hillock Rundtom, the trail forks. [2-340] The trail to Olavsbu and Skogadalsbøen veers right, while the one to Fondsbu goes straight ahead. [2-341] An even shorter route can be found turning right and then following the post road north of Geithø, holding a steady course for Fondsbu. [2-342] The road is marked on the map, but not in the terrain, so you need to read the map if this is your choice. [2-343] There is also a steep approach to Fondsbu. [2-344] The T-marked trail skirts Geithø to the south toward Høystakktjørnet. [2-345] The river from the tarn is crossed on a bridge below the outlet, before the trail drops steeply down to Bygdin. [2-346] The last few miles toward Fondsbu it follows the lake shore. [2-347]

[2-348 |] Summits around Olavsbu [2-349] Feel free to linger a day or two at Olavsbu. [2-350] It gives you an excellent start on Mjølkedalstind, Sjogholstind, Skardalstind, and Raudalstindane, and even at self-service huts you may stay several days if you show consideration for the other guests. [2-351] And at Olavsbu there is a caretaker to advise you most of the summer. [2-352] The hike to Mjølkedalstind is described in Booklet 3, and Raudalsegga is covered in the presentation of Olavsbu on page 9. [2-353] Climbing Sjogholstind is also an option for those accustomed to alpine hiking. [2-354] You take off from the trail through the gap on the northwest side and follow the ridge to the summit. [2-355] Skardalstind is also a fine peak. [2-356] The starting point is Raudalsbandet on the route to Leirvassbu. [2-357] From here you stake your course to the top and stick to it as you climb. [2-358] Raudalsbandet is also the takeoff for Austre Raudalstind, but for this you need the map in Booklet 3. [2-359]

[2-360 |] Hikes around Olavsbu [2-361] Along with Skinnegga (see Trip 2a) Galdeberget, on the other side of Bygdin, is the most popular destination for those staying at Fondsbu or Eidsbugarden. [2-362] The trip starts along the lake, following DNT cairns toward Gjendebu. [2-363] After crossing the bridge by Høystakktjernet, you head straight for the summit, at 6800 feet. [2-364] But most people prefer to stop by its nubble, at 6400 feet. [2-365] It hovers precipitously above Bygdin, yielding a view at least as grand as that from the summit. [2-366] The return trip may follow the cairned trail through Oksedalen. [2-367] But instead of following the Gjendebu route back, you may prefer the nice swing around Grønebergtjernet, along the route of the old post road over Gravafjellet to the hut. [2-368] The post road is also nice for climbing the 5350-foot Høgebrotet. [2-369] To my knowledge this is the only vantage point in all of Jotunheimen to take in Bygdin, Tyin and Gjende, weather permitting. [2-370] The area around Fondsbu has a lot more to offer, of course. [2-371] Booklet 3 includes more suggestions, but you are also free to use your map, your imagination, and your common sence. [2-372]

[2-373 |] Day Trips from Gjendebu [2-374] A nature lover will revel in all the great hiking options around Gjendebu. [2-375] A favorite is the jaunt up Gjendestunga. [2-376] Located between Vesleådalen and Storådalen, this peak only reaches 4970 feet, but what a view - of peaks and glaciers in the entire southern Jotunheimen. [2-377] The view from Svartdalspiggen's 7000 feet is, if possible, even more splendid, but then the trip is twice as long as the one to Gjendestunga, though not particularly difficult. [2-378] Follow the trail toward Torfinnsbu up into Svartdalen. [2-379] Where it levels out you keep right up onto the shoulder. [2-380] There is some loose scree, and it may be slippery, but it is otherwise safe. [2-381] Follow the ridge, across a snowfield, to the summit. [2-382] The old Jotunheimen enthusiast Emanuel Mohn held the view from Svartdalspiggen to be the best in all of Jotunheimen. [2-383] "No other vantage point offers such a profusion of jagged peaks at so short a distance." [2-384] On the opposite side of the valley lies Store Knutsholstind at 7685 feet. [2-385] Before the first ascent, by Johannes Th. Heftye, in 1875, it was considered unclimbable, but today it is seen as a regular hike, however open and exposed. [2-386] Feel free to give it a try, but be careful. [2-387] If you prefer to avoid precipices and want to have a look at Jo Gjende's old cabin on the other side of Gjende or study the flora around Gjendebu, these are respectable alternatives. [2-388]

[2-389 |] Distances [2-390 |] Fondsbu - Olavsbu, 5 h. [2-391 |] Gjendebu - Olavsbu, 5 h. [2-392 |] Gjendebu - Fondsbu, 5 h. [2-393]

[2-394 |] Lodging [2-395] Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Olavsbu, and Gjendebu. [2-396]

[2-397 |] Transportation [2-398] Road and bus service to Fondsbu and Eidsbugarden, also boat service on Bygdin. [2-399] Boat on Gjende to Gjendebu. [2-400]

[2-401 |] All Along Bygdin [2-402 |] Trip 2c - 3 days - g-gg [2-403]

[2-404] This is a nicely varied hike both along the Bygdin shore and up to 5500 feet in among the high peaks to the north of the lake. [2-405] The trip may be combined with Trip 2a for a complete circuit of the lake. [2-406] It may also be a nice alternative to continue along the partly marked trail from Valdresflya VH (hostel) to Gjendesheim, or to take the bus over Valdresflya. [2-407] From Gjendesheim you walk back to Fondsbu along Gjende, getting the best of both lakes. [2-408]

[2-409 |] Fondsbu - Torfinnsbu [2-410] The hike starts gently on the main trail to Gjendebu along the shore for about 2.5 miles by Bygdin's western end. [2-411] It then climbs steeply to Høystakka to a bridge below the tarn. [2-412] After another mile or so it turns right into Oksedalen. [2-413] This valley can hardly have been named for having lush pastures for oxen; it has entirely too much scree and boulders. [2-414] The trail climbs steadily to the tarn at the head of the valley, steepening through the gap and down to Galdebergstjern. [2-415] There is often a snowfield in the gap, so take care. [2-416] The brook at the outlet of Galdebergstjern is waded or rock-hopped depending on the water level. [2-417] The trail proceeds gently to Langedalen and along the river through the valley. [2-418] Langedalsåna is crossed on a wooden bridge, and half a mile farther on you get to Torfinnsbu's predecessor, Nybua. [2-419] From here the walking is easy along the shore of Bygdin to Torfinnsbu. [2-420]

[2-421 |] Torfinnsbu - Valdresflya VH or Bygdin Fjellhotell [2-422] These are two possible destinations for the next day's hike, the latter being about an hour shorter. [2-423] After crossing Torfinnsdøla on a bridge, the trail stays fairly close to the waters of Bygdin the entire time. [2-424] It crosses a number of streams, some on bridges, a large one at Hestevollen. [2-425] Once you get there, you can easily see that this was a place fit for horses, and it serves quite well as a rest stop for humans, as well. [2-426] A bit before Dyrnesodden the trail forks. [2-427] The left branch climbs steadily and in a fairly straight line to Valdresflya VH, while the right one hugs the shore as far as Bygdisheim, which unfortunately is closed to hikers. [2-428] This spot also marks the end of the real Bygdin, but thanks to damming the lake now runs all the way to Bygdin Fjellhotell. [2-429] The last few miles you have to walk along a road, which, fortunately, is closed to motor vehicles. [2-430]

[2-431 |] Bygdin [2-432] Bygdin covers 18 square miles, is 17.5 miles long, up to 1.3 miles wide, making it the largest lake in Jotunheimen. [2-433] Its name derives from its curved shape. [2-434]

[2-435 |] M/B Bitihorn [2-436] In 1905, the year Nybod opened, a boat service was started at Bygdin. [2-437] The boat had actually been bought for Tyin, the plan being to transport it to Bygdin and then across the isthmus from Eidsbugarden to Tyin. [2-438] The transfer became too cumbersome, so the boat was put into service on Bygdin, leaving Tyin to get one the following year. [2-439] Before these boats the only option for travelers who did not want to walk along Bygdin was to rent a rowboat with rowers. [2-440] In 1912 today's boat, M/B Bitihorn, started, and a few years later it had the lake to itself. [2-441] All summer it chugs back and forth along the lake, and thanks to this service the hiker's radius in the area is considerably widened. [2-442] And the ride itself is a pleasant experience. [2-443] Especially Torfinnstindane look impressive from the lake. [2-444]

[2-445 |] Distances [2-446 |] Torfinnsbu - Fondsbu, 7 h. [2-447 |] Torfinnsbu - Valdresflya VH, 4 h. [2-448 |] Torfinnsbu - Bygdin Fjellhotell, 3 h. [2-449]

[2-450 |] Lodging [2-451] Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Torfinnsbu, Bygdin Fjellhotell, and Valdresflya Vandrerhjem (VH). [2-452]

[2-453 |] Transportation [2-454] Road and bus service to Fondsbu, Eidsbugarden, Valdresflya VH, and Bygdin Fjellhotell. [2-455] Boat service on Bygdin. [2-456]

[2-457 |] Wilderness Trip in Leirungsdalen [2-458 |] 1 or more days. - Trip 2d - gg-ggg [2-459]

[2-460] The marked trail through the magnificent Leirungsdalen to the south of Gjende is unfortunately no longer maintained. [2-461] Within Jotunheimen National Park the inner part of the valley has gotten a "forever-wild" status. [2-462] This does not prohibit travel, but hikers have to rely on a map and compass. [2-463] The hike from Gjendesheim along the valley, down to Torfinnsbu or Gjendebu through Svartdalen is very long. [2-464] You have to allow 8 or 9 hours; but if you are fit, it is no problem. [2-465] It is too bad to rush through here, though, so you are better off bringing a tent, staying in Leirungsdalen, and doing a couple of hikes along the string of peaks on either side of the valley. [2-466] The first part of the hike is described in connection with Trip 2e, and the old trail still shows on the map. [2-467] It goes past Nedre Leirungen, across the lower part of Leirungsdalen (there is a bridge across the river), past Svarthammarbua, and along the north side of Leirungsåa all the way up toward the gap to Svartdalen. [2-468] A popular alternative for visitors to the valley is to park along the Valdresflya road, near the 51-marker, and then walk through the gap south of Rauhamrane into Leirungsdalen. [2-469] There is an excellent tent site at the end of Steindalen. [2-470] During the war there were German alpine forces here; you can still see the foundations for their tents. [2-471] Steindalen is also a good starting point for the trip up Munken and on along Kalvåhøgda.